Slab coffee table-- thinking of making one for mom

[Matt Lau]

Hey Creekers,

For the past four months, my parents have been renovating their house.
After seeing the renovations and mom's new furniture, I got permission to obtain a live edge coffee table.

However, she didn't specify to just buy it. ;)

After going to various wood supplier and furniture makers, I'm thinking of making the coffee table myself.
The ready made ones are too small, not finished that well (quick spritz of Lacquer), or not stabilized properly (unsupported knots/defects). It'll be my first neanderish furniture project (if you don't count possible use of a random orbital sander).

Do you guys have any tips?

I was hoping to do a Nakashima-inspired build...a simple trestle base under a slab.

[Jim Koepke]

Do you guys have any tips?

First would be to figure out where to find an appropriate slab.

My wife and her father used to make clocks and things out of redwood slabs. They usually got them on trips up the California coast.

There are a few oak slabs in my shop, but they would be difficult to work besides getting one to you would be a lot more difficult.

jtk

[Matt Lau]

After trial and error, I found two suppliers:

The slab place by Ashby Lumber.
Ponderosa Millworks.

Of the two, I'll probably go with Ponderosa Millworks.
It's a side business of an arborist, and they resaw slabs out of city trees that would be thrown to the dumpster.
It'd cost me about $12-15/bf (working out to about $270-400 for the slab I'll likely need).
The quality is nice (air dried about 2 years)...and the guys there are wood lovers.
Also, good karma.

[Christopher Charles]

Hello Matt,

Sounds like a good project! I've worked some with slabs and there's nothing inherently different about it. You may find that the grain gets "interesting" in many areas, since you may or may have much choice on how the grain goes when picking a slab. Hence, you find a toothing blade/scrapers or that ROS handy. We'll look forward to seeing your progress.

Best,
Chris

[Matt Lau]

Thanks!

I'll report back sometime as it comes through.

Currently, I'm trying to figure out if I'll just buy (have someone fabricate) a steel base for the table.
Or, I could make one out of Walnut.

-Matt

[John C Cox]

I am not generally a huge fan of kiln dried timber... But with a live edge - I think it's worth considering.... If for no other reason than to kill off bugs that will be in the bark and sapwood.

How thick of a slab are you talking? Will it have heartwood? Has it stabilized indoors in some sort of climate control/dry place for a couple years? 2 years may not be anywhere long enough for the wood to really properly stabilize from green - especially when you are going to take it inside and the average humidity will go down maybe 20% vs outdoors...

I mention this because I picked up a center cut cherry slab about 10 years ago.... It was dried before I got it.... But apparently it still had a ways to go.. It's waiting for resawing into guitar parts... But in the ensuing years - it split right down the heart/pith.... Fine for me so long as it doesn't take too much width with it - but it would be heartbreaking if it was used on a table and then split in half a year or two after going in the house....

[Matt Lau]

John,

Thanks for the tip. This wood has been slabbed and air dried. I think that most of these are air dried outside, but under tarps. They are final dimensioned only after 2 years.

As for the wood, I'm thinking of fully supporting it laterally with some sort of brace.
I also plan to stabilize any voids or possible cracks with epoxy.
If there's bigger visible splits, I'll either reject the slab or use butterfly inlays.

-Matt

[Bill McDermott]

Matt, I really like Nakashimas. He collected premier slabs. In the event you find something that is less than your ideal, I have seen many well done renditions
where the slab was ripped down the middle and the live edges were turned to the inside. That created straight edges on the outside and a split top. I like how that squares up the support structure, cleans up the line, but retains the natural look and feel. Looking forward to seeing pictures of the top before and after finish. Enjoy, and by all means, throw a couple coasters in with the table.

[Brian Holcombe]

I like a wooden base for these, done right it will help support the slab and help it to resist cupping and bowing. Wood is stronger in that respect than steel, especially considering the typical sizes of various bases.

Pick a walnut slab or similarly stable wood.

[Matt Lau]

I like a wooden base for these, done right it will help support the slab and help it to resist cupping and bowing. Wood is stronger in that respect than steel, especially considering the typical sizes of various bases.

Pick a walnut slab or similarly stable wood.

Any pictures?

I have a hard time picturing it, as most that I see look a bit "artsy"

[Brian Holcombe]

https://i1.wp.com/brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/692af5ea-ea78-4799-821a-9ae5c5cc0831_zpsf5ns20ll-2280348439-1516052120942.jpg

Functional is my artsy.

[Matt Lau]

That is pure class.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Matt!

[Scott T Smith]

I sell kiln dried slabs and have two pieces of advice for you. First, the MC% of a wide slab is very important. Most air dried slabs will measure around 12% - 14% MC, and you really want them down in the 6% - 8% range before you finish them or they will cup.

The second pieces of advice is to finish all sides of the slab with the same number of coats, same thickness, and same finish. A lot of furniture pieces built from lumber only have a light coat on the bottom side (if any), and that is not a wise idea with a slab if you want it to stay flat.

Best of success to you with your project.

Scott

[Matt Lau]

Thanks for the tip!

Their furniture finally came in on Thursday.
I'm not starting the project until mom and dad know exactly what they want.

Very likely, I suspect that a midcentury modern design might be up their alley.