DC Cyclone Decision. Am I silly to go 5hp?

[Tom Dixon]

I finished getting my shop built about a year ago after 4 years without one due to a move, and I have slowly been re-acquiring new versions of the tools I sold from the old shop. My tax refund just got deposited in my checking account and I'm now ready to pull the trigger on a DC Cyclone. I've narrowed it down to a Grizzly G0441 3hp (http://www.grizzly.com/products/3-HP-Cyclone-Dust-Collector/G0441) or a G0442 5hp (https://www.grizzly.com/products/5-HP-Cyclone-Dust-Collector/G0442). Below is a drawing of my duct layout for the tools I have. (This one is for PVC but I have also drawn spiral steel duct version prior to this one.. I am leaning towards spiral ducting at this time.) The 3hp should be adequate for a 24' x 26' shop with 8" pipe for the trunk and 6" pipe of of that to machines, but I'm worried if I add a CNC and oscillating belt sander sometime in the future I may be pushing it to it's limit. I hardly ever plan to run more than two machines at once. I've about decided to go with the 5hp cyclone but I wanted to make a sanity check with this group. The 5hp costs $665 dollars more than the 3hp which in the grand scheme of what I've spent so far is peanuts, (but that would buy me a mortising machine I have my eye on). The only downside I can see is that the second filter will stick out about 20" further into the shop and I'll likely bump into it with something sooner than later, and if I end up enclosing the DC, the closet will have to be larger.

Is it silly to over buy and go with the 5hp? Your feedback would be appreciated.

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Tom

[Dominik Dudkiewicz]

Hi Tom,

I can't speak to the Grizzly machines but I think you would be silly not to go with 5HP. With an 8" main trunk and relatively clean, short 6" to machines, particularly if running two at once, and I think even the 15.5" impeller system may require more than 3HP. You can't have too much airflow IMO, so I'd go with the 5HP system. Another benefit is doubling the filter area.

Your layout looks good. The main improvement I could suggest is to move the DC over more to the corner and get a longer straight section of duct leading into the inlet; which will improve airflow and seperation by reducing turbulence at the inlet.

Cheers, Dom

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Dominik about getting the unit toward the corner and using a straight, diagonal main trunk to cover most of the shop. It's also easier to enclose the cyclone if you choos to do so for sound mitigation.

[Martin Wasner]

I'd go higher HP. I'd also spend just a little more and get an Oneida. The smart one comes with a remote and vfd to ramp it up if necessary.

[Tom Dixon]

Thanks for the comments. You guys have basically confirmed my current thinking. I also had been considering moving it over and using a 45 degree straight run to the trunk. One other thought I have had is the 5hp also has a 10" inlet so I could run 10" pipe and fittings up to the 8" trunk and reduce the resistance in the 90 degree turn to connect to the trunk. I may have to move the trunk slightly off of the center of the shop to get the 45 degree run. I can only move the DC a limited amount because I can't block the electrical panel with the filters. I don't see slightly off center as a problem since it makes shorter runs to the heavy chip and sawdust producers, (Planer, Jointer, and Dual Drum sander).

[Tom Dixon]

I'd go higher HP. I'd also spend just a little more and get an Oneida. The smart one comes with a remote and vfd to ramp it up if necessary.

The Oneida Smart 5hp is almost double in price. If I was pro instead of a hobbyist I would definitely go with the Oneida despite the difference in cost, but the Griz should do fine for my needs. I'm already pushing my budget to the limits of what SWMBO thinks is reasonable and I have a few more stationary tools on my wish list to acquire yet, (I also still have to purchase the duct pipe and fittings too).

[Jamie Buxton]

You might consider the cost of electricity. A 5 hp dust collector pulls 5 hp worth of electricity all the time that it is running. Most other stationary machines rarely pull their full rated power.

[Larry Frank]

I went with a 5 hp Oneida Super Dust Gorilla and very happy with it. They have the V series which is cheaper than the Smart series.

The Grizzly 5 hp unit is also fine. If you are only running 1 or 2 machines at a time you may not need 10" ducts. I am running 6" ducts and get very good air flow with my unit.

[Martin Wasner]

The Oneida Smart 5hp is almost double in price. If I was pro instead of a hobbyist I would definitely go with the Oneida despite the difference in cost, but the Griz should do fine for my needs. I'm already pushing my budget to the limits of what SWMBO thinks is reasonable and I have a few more stationary tools on my wish list to acquire yet, (I also still have to purchase the duct pipe and fittings too).

Isn't it $3k?

[Martin Wasner]

It's $3200. I'd bet it's $500 well spent

[Peter Christensen]

The Clear-Vue Max bundle would be less money than the Grizzly but you would have to find a drum. CV 1800 a little less than the Max

[Bill Dufour]

For a dc I would seriously look at used. Even in industrial use they last a long time. If the motor runs there is not much else that can go wrong.
I do not believe that a vfd really offers much benefit to a dc. Fan curves should be optimized for one rpm speed. Going outside that rpm will soon cause issues with messy airflow into and out of the fan and fan housing.
Bill D

[John K Jordan]

You might consider the cost of electricity. A 5 hp dust collector pulls 5 hp worth of electricity all the time that it is running. Most other stationary machines rarely pull their full rated power.

It might depend on the amount of air moving through the cyclone. When testing I used a clamp-on current meter to test my 5hp cyclone. The current varied widely, lower as less air was moved (i.e. blast gates closed) With lots of bends and long runs and restricted ports on smaller machines the current and electrical use may be less than "5hp worth of current."

I'm quite happy with 5hp.

[Matthew Curtis]

When I save up enough I am going to go with the CV MAX. In dust collection in most cases: Bigger HP = more CFM = Better dust collection

[Prashun Patel]

If it were me, I'd move the dust collector to the center of the wall facing the front of your workbench (next to the storage cabinet). You'll cut the distance to all the saws by 1/2.

I would also get the bigger HP model. That being said, it seems you are not on the tightest of budgets, so why have you omitted Oneida and Clear Vue from your consideration?

[John K Jordan]

...if I end up enclosing the DC, the closet will have to be larger.


Enclosing the cyclone would be a priority for me. My ClearVue is ear-damaging loud. I built a sound-insulated 4x8 closet to enclose the 5hp DC and 5hp air compressor which allows normal conversation anywhere in the shop.

JKJ

[Tom Bain]

Enclosing the cyclone would be a priority for me. My ClearVue is ear-damaging loud. I built a sound-insulated 4x8 closet to enclose the 5hp DC and 5hp air compressor which allows normal conversation anywhere in the shop.

JKJ

John — not to hi-jack the thread, but is your filter also in the closet, or does that sit outside the closet? Considering something similar for noise reduction.

[Jim Becker]

John — not to hi-jack the thread, but is your filter also in the closet, or does that sit outside the closet? Considering something similar for noise reduction.

You need a non-direct pathway for return air to reduce noise transmission, so the filter stays in the closet and a "bent" return gets the air back into the shop. I believe John used a long hunk of large diameter, insulated and flexible HVAC duct. Mine is a folded return path in the i-Joist ceiling of my shop.

[John K Jordan]

John — not to hi-jack the thread, but is your filter also in the closet, or does that sit outside the closet? Considering something similar for noise reduction.

I think it's good to explore branches in a thread like this! Everyone benefits.

My filters are inside the closet. Much of the noise apparently comes from the cyclone exhaust and some people insulate that separately.

I exhaust into the closet then route the return air through a baffled duct I snaked through the roof trusses. The direction changes enough that I can't hear any sound through the duct. It's impossible to photograph but this is what I sketched in my shop design notebook:

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The air enter low in the closet and exits from the ceiling in the main shop. (All the ducts to the machines are in the ceiling too)

Besides the bends and baffles I sprayed the inside of the plywood duct with a rubberized coating. The closet itself has 2x6 walls built with 2x4s in a "staggered stud" sound-reduction configuration with insulation snaked between the studs. This provides no direct contact sound transmission path between the inside and outside walls. To further reduce the noise I installed double access doors on the side of the closet away from the wood shop, opening up into the maintenance bay area on the end of the shop. The air compressor line is fed through the wall to controls and dryers in the main shop then plumbed to outlets spread through the shop. I'm extremely pleased with this arrangement since it keeps the sound down for both of those beasts.

JKJ

[Tom Bain]

Super helpful, thanks. Many years ago I built some homemade DIY loudspeakers and those noise reduction baffles remind me of transmission line loudspeakers. Different application, but similar concept.

[andy bessette]

I would raise the cyclone to eliminate the two 90* bends.

[Tom Dixon]

I honestly don't think the Oneida Dust Gorilla Pro at $500 more than the Grizzly G0442 is a better value. I'm not sure why some of you guys keep pushing me in that direction. In a side by side comparison the Griz has double the filter surface area and comparable performance characteristics but the Oneida has a smaller inlet at 7" as opposed to 8" or even 10" without the adapter collar. The only feature the Oneida has that the Grizzly doesn't is the Smart circuitry and I'm completely unconvinced that it is worth it or even necessary. It seems to me more like a gimmick that will be likely to break down after the warranty is up and cost mega $$$ to fix. At this point I'm more inclined to hold off the cyclone purchase and use the money I have and purchase some other tools on my must have before retirement in 5 to 7 years list. I can continue to move my seven year old 2hp G0548 around from machine to machine for another year and circle back for another stab at it later hoping the cyclone landscape improves or someone actually does a science based comparison of 5hp cyclones in a woodworking magazine.

Thanks for all the input. The only thing I've actually decided from this post is to go 5hp over 3hp. When and which brand now is the question. I'm still mulling it over more confused than I was before.

[andy bessette]

I honestly don't think the Oneida Dust Gorilla Pro at $500 more than the Grizzly G0442 is a better value. I'm not sure why some of you guys keep pushing me in that direction...

Because the Oneida quality is vastly superior to Grizzly?

[Tom Dixon]

Because the Oneida quality is vastly superior to Grizzly?

Based on what? Empirical data or a made in America bias? "Vastly superior" is a bit of hyperbole in my opinion. The word "superior" on its own should have been sufficient. I own a number of Grizzly stationary machines and I am quite satisfied that the quality is very good. I am much more influenced by factual data over opinion so if one doesn't offer a real critique of the differences in design, engineering, construction and real world tested performance, all the "feels" are just unconvincing. I work as a manufacturing R&D engineer so data driven multi-attribute analysis is in my wheelhouse for informed decisions and, at this point, what this post has convinced me of is that I don't have sufficient data.

[Roy Petersen]

I honestly don't think the Oneida Dust Gorilla Pro at $500 more than the Grizzly G0442 is a better value.
...
I'm completely unconvinced that it is worth it or even necessary.
Have to say I'm with you on that. Though I appreciate Oneida knowing a fair bit about what they do, some of my interactions with them while building out my own upgrade left me feeling like I was paying extra for the name more than the quality. I have some Grizzly tools that long outlasted brand names, so I'd be inclined to purchase there again.

[John K Jordan]

...Though I appreciate Oneida knowing a fair bit about what they do...

Yes Oneida seems to be a good resource for useful know-how. I once read a note by someone who observed that the Oneida design appeared to evolve with the publication of Bill Pentz's cyclone designs. I suspect every cyclone maker out there now uses what has proven to work best with differences perhaps in the quality of components, materials, and fabrication.

And any should be better than none!

JKJ

[Ole Anderson]

A good 3 hp cyclone should be all you need. The Grizz G0441 is $1790 delivered and they claim 1200 cfm at 8" of static pressure (a good comparison point). Shipping weight 400 pounds, 22 amps draw at 220 volts. The equivalent Oneida would be the 3 hp V-3000 which is $1958 delivered. They claim 800 cfm at 8" of static pressure and will draw 13 amps at 220 volts. Not sure why the G0441 draws so much juice compared to the V-3000. It does have a slightly larger impeller, but there is more to impellers than diameter. Comparing the G0441 to the Dust Gorilla Pro is apples to oranges given the "smart" capabilities of the Oneida. My take (I am a 2 hp SDG owner and have a few Grizz products as well) is that I would be comfortable with the performance of either unit and would choose based on other features such as filtration and power draw as well as my preference (or not) for USA built equipment. Both are in the same ballpark cost wise.

Edit: The Wood mag 2013 shootout had an interesting chart of how well each unit actually trapped dust, which is what this all about. The Oneida with the true HEPA filter did the best by far. https://www.oneida-air.com/images/static/half-page-banner-wood-magazine-v-3000-review-th.png

[William Collier]

Maybe I'm wrong, but it looks like the stand for the G0441 is an optional $320 expense, while the stand is included with the Oneida V series. I'm comparing the 3hp versions.

[andy bessette]

...Your feedback would be appreciated...


...I am much more influenced by factual data over opinion...

Do your own due diligence. Look up your own facts.

I sold my Grizzly DC and bought the Oneida. Quality difference should be glaringly obvious to anyone who owns a shop, though my background is design engineering.

Unsubscribed.

[Larry Frank]

Bottom line on deciding what dust collector is the performance. Figure out how much cfm you need at the tool, factor in the duct losses and use data from someplace like Wood Magazine.

My 5 hp Oneida gives me more than enough cfm with 6" ducts. Going with larger ducts will give you more cfm but at a significant increase in cost.

I do not know about Grizzly dust collector but my Oneida was perfect with everything exactly how it should be. It was well packed and no shipping damage. I had some questions and the customer service was great.

[Darcy Warner]

Many reasons for the extra expenses, motor quality, electrical control quality, fit and finish. I don't trust most manufacturers numbers on cyclones. They usually over state it. When you see that 400 cfm difference between those two, right away I believe Oneidas numbers more.
Aget is always rated on the low side, but they are everywhere so something must be right about them.

[Bob Falk]

It would be prudent to wire for a 5hp. I believe you can run the 3hp on the heavier wire (with appropriate breakers) if you decide to go that way.

[Larry Frank]

I tested my Oneida 5 hp cyclone with a hot wire anemometer and created a performance curve. The numbers I got were just slightly lower than the Oneida curve. I believe their data to be good.

[Jim Andrew]

I had a 2hp cyclone, then upgraded to a 3hp cyclone, and added an outside dump, which helps performance significantly, but had I to do it over would go 5hp. Clearview has the biggest impeller, so would consider that, although I do not relish the idea of having to assemble the blower housing.

[Martin Wasner]

I honestly don't think the Oneida Dust Gorilla Pro at $500 more than the Grizzly G0442 is a better value. I'm not sure why some of you guys keep pushing me in that direction. In a side by side comparison the Griz has double the filter surface area and comparable performance characteristics but the Oneida has a smaller inlet at 7" as opposed to 8" or even 10" without the adapter collar. The only feature the Oneida has that the Grizzly doesn't is the Smart circuitry and I'm completely unconvinced that it is worth it or even necessary. It seems to me more like a gimmick that will be likely to break down after the warranty is up and cost mega $$$ to fix. At this point I'm more inclined to hold off the cyclone purchase and use the money I have and purchase some other tools on my must have before retirement in 5 to 7 years list. I can continue to move my seven year old 2hp G0548 around from machine to machine for another year and circle back for another stab at it later hoping the cyclone landscape improves or someone actually does a science based comparison of 5hp cyclones in a woodworking magazine.

Thanks for all the input. The only thing I've actually decided from this post is to go 5hp over 3hp. When and which brand now is the question. I'm still mulling it over more confused than I was before.


Why? You asked about Grizzly, which some people think the world of I do not, and were offered other options that are pretty close in price.

As somebody who makes living at this, Grizzly is far too expensive for me to consider. I can just about guarantee everything about the Oneida would be superior over the Grizzly.

[Alan Lightstone]

Very happy with my 5hp Oneida.

[John C Bush]

I have the Griz 2hp cyclone~13 yrs now- and as a hobbiest that mills a lot of rough stock it has worked well for me. 20" planer, 12" jointer, 25" drum sander, 21" BS----. Seven inch main to 6" drops(9' ceiling) to 4" flex to machines. I likely would have purchased an Oneida but I live 1 1/2 hr from Griz Bellingham Wa. so it was a cost no brainer for me. It's in an attached shed, wall mounted so no stand needed and no noise issue. I was able to mount to have a straight run from intake to main and 55 gal collection drum on wheels fits just right beneath. I think the 3 hp would provide more than adequate DC. Not sure of future CNC cfm needs tho.I used 26ga. snaplock HVAC pipe with mostly HVAC fittings but used official wide radius 90's (was able to source from wholesale distributor) for better airflow. Prices for spiral ducting was significantly higher. I also have the Ecogate automatic gate system that opens and closes the gates as you move from machine to machine. If future addition of a CNC doesn't add significant cfm demand I'd suggest going with the Griz 3hp cyclone, with snaplock pipe, etc,. and spending the savings on gate automation. The Griz has worked well-problem free-and the autogates are sweet to have when busy milling. I just need to remember to check the drum more often. Good luck shopping.

[Art Mann]

If Oneida is so quality conscious, then why is their least expensive line of cyclones made out of cheap molded plasitc while all the other brands are made of metal? The price is the same or more expensive than competing brands even though the cost of manufacture is a lot less. Value is as much an issue with me as quality.

[David Kumm]

Oneida uses the best motor IMO, a good quality Baldor. Their cyclone is a pretty basic design. The CV design with a helical baffle is similar to the design of the commercial Torit, Dustkop, Sternvent, Aget type cyclones. Their motor is a lighter frame to keep the weight down with a smaller shaft and bearings. A long narrow offset entry is also preferred for commercial units but more expensive to manufacture so hobby cyclones compromise the separation to keep the cost down. I've bought used commercial cyclones pretty cheap and they are more complicated to manufacture and not a bad alternative. The impellers are also much heavier and have taper lock bushings to ease removal. CFM comes at the price of noise. The more quiet the unit, the lower the pressure the impeller requires for airflow. The straighter the blades, the higher the pressure but that also requires more hp and creates more noise. Because most impellers are low pressure, a larger diameter, higher hp motor is needed, not so much to deal with machines with 6" ports, but those with smaller ports and greater restrictions inside the machine. A saw with a 5" port but 3" flex inside is an example. Life is a trade off. Dave

[Jim Becker]

Art, I think that Oneida decided to explore an alternative material design, particularly for home shop users and because of the success of firms like ClearView. A molded resin material also provided the opportunity to refine some of the air flow characteristics that would be difficult in metal. I'm not sure that "cheap molded plastic" is an accurate description of the product offer, either...

[glenn bradley]

DC threads are always lively. :)

+1 on:

5HP is a good idea
Elevate the blower to avoid/minimize the riser
Diagonal main from a corner or mid-long-wall placement seems like a better ducting solution
6" to the machine or as close as you can get
Closet for the DC
Non-metal parts are a non-issue


Oneidas are nice but, I have run a G0440 almost daily for nearly a decade. I did have to replace a starter cap for $25 but, I was cycling the DC a lot; changed habits, no issue since. ASTM-2729 ducting has been great but, probably only reasonable for 6" and down. Lightweight,e asily reconfigurable and inexpensive at the time I did it; the price is about double now.

[Mike Heidrick]

I have a G0638 10hp cyclone and it electronics are super nice. It has a programable timing start circuit, remote start, multiple contactors for the start and run circuits and is switchable from 230v 3ph to 460v 3ph with just an overload swap. Its made in tiawan so while not a baldor motor it still has a very stout motor setup. The motor and impeller setup and intake tub weigh in at 665 lbs of the 1100 lbs total, the cyclone body itself is over 6' tall, the entire machine is over 12' tall, the impeller is something like 18.5" dia, cyclone has a 12" intake, and you can hose off the industrial filters literally with a water hose. Id not blow off all griz cyclone machines before seeing all of them in person.

[Tom Dixon]

DC threads are always lively. :)

+1 on:

5HP is a good idea
Elevate the blower to avoid/minimize the riser
Diagonal main from a corner or mid-long-wall placement seems like a better ducting solution
6" to the machine or as close as you can get
Closet for the DC
Non-metal parts are a non-issue


Oneidas are nice but, I have run a G0440 almost daily for nearly a decade. I did have to replace a starter cap for $25 but, I was cycling the DC a lot; changed habits, no issue since. ASTM-2729 ducting has been great but, probably only reasonable for 6" and down. Lightweight,e asily reconfigurable and inexpensive at the time I did it; the price is about double now.

New plan is to build an exterior raised shed with a roll up door for entry. That will give me a straight path for the 8" main down the center of the shop. I'm still undecided whether to go spiral pipe or ASTM-2729 but all runs are 6" to the machines even if reduced at the machine to 4".

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[Jim Becker]

Tom, you may need to go with the spiral or other metallic duct if you buy the higher performance cyclone and it's designed for a larger main than just 6". The issue with plastic duct is that the sizing tends to be limited to "even numbers" and larger than 6" gets even more difficult to find and pricy. I'm not familiar with the DC you're considering, but it's good to hone the specifications of your duct work to insure the best performance across the board.

[Peter Christensen]

If you add a small deck to the extension you can move the stairs to the side. This would let you back up to the edge with a pickup/trailer/tractor to unload/load the barrels. Easier than trying to carry them down the stairs. I would get a few extra barrels and lids so you can quickly swap them out while working.

[John Lanciani]

If you add a small deck to the extension you can move the stairs to the side. This would let you back up to the edge with a pickup/trailer/tractor to unload/load the barrels. Easier than trying to carry them down the stairs. I would get a few extra barrels and lids so you can quickly swap them out while working.

Or a ramp instead of stairs so that you can use a hand truck.

[Andrew Seemann]

New plan is to build an exterior raised shed with a roll up door for entry. That will give me a straight path for the 8" main down the center of the shop. I'm still undecided whether to go spiral pipe or ASTM-2729 but all runs are 6" to the machines even if reduced at the machine to 4".



I did a mix of spiral pipe and straight pipe for my dust collection system (it was what I had on hand) and have worked with a fair amount of PVC, and if I got to pick which one I would use for a DC system, I would take the spiral pipe in a heartbeat.

Spiral pipe is just heavier enough than straight pipe to make it easy to clamp and sawzall, but not so thick as to be difficult to work with. The straight pipe was a nightmare of tinsnips and cut fingers.

Unlike sewer pipe, the fittings for spiral pipe are actually made for dust collection so you aren't jerry rigging everything to make it work. Also if you screw it together and seal with aluminum tape, it is much easier to modify than if everything is solvent welded.

[Tom Dixon]

Or a ramp instead of stairs so that you can use a hand truck.


If you add a small deck to the extension you can move the stairs to the side. This would let you back up to the edge with a pickup/trailer/tractor to unload/load the barrels. Easier than trying to carry them down the stairs. I would get a few extra barrels and lids so you can quickly swap them out while working.

There is no access for any kind of vehicle on that side of the shop. Those stairs will be 5.5" high 17" deep and 5' wide. I doubt I'll have much trouble getting the sawdust and shavings down them but I'll consider the ramp idea. There's nothing but woods behind the shop for acres so I can dump it, mulch it or burn it.

[Tom Dixon]

Or a ramp instead of stairs so that you can use a hand truck.


I did a mix of spiral pipe and straight pipe for my dust collection system (it was what I had on hand) and have worked with a fair amount of PVC, and if I got to pick which one I would use for a DC system, I would take the spiral pipe in a heartbeat.

Spiral pipe is just heavier enough than straight pipe to make it easy to clamp and sawzall, but not so thick as to be difficult to work with. The straight pipe was a nightmare of tinsnips and cut fingers.

Unlike sewer pipe, the fittings for spiral pipe are actually made for dust collection so you aren't jerry rigging everything to make it work. Also if you screw it together and seal with aluminum tape, it is much easier to modify than if everything is solvent welded.

Yeah I keep gravitating towards the Spiral pipe but I've been toying with the idea of whether you could use a mixture of spiral and PVC. For instance Spiral pipe and fittings for for the main trunk and possibly the diagonal runs but use PVC going down the walls and maybe the diagonal runs. I'm just unsure if the diameters will match up well enough to join 6" PVC to a 6" spiral elbow or wye and I haven't yet found a local place to get 6" ASTM-2729. 4" is available at Lowes cheap.

[Martin Wasner]

If you're doing a cyclone, just put the barrel underneath so your bin is at ground level. You'd have to extend the connection between the barrel and the cyclone, but flex hose works well for that.

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Martin...as long as the conduit between the bottom of the cyclone and the bin is completely sealed...it can be as long as necessary. I helped a friend install her cyclone on the second floor of her shop and we put the bin directly below "in" the shop for convenience.

[Matt Lau]

Let me throw another option...I've been thinking of the same problem.

1. Why not do a Clearvue and buy parts as needed and upgrade?
You can buy/make a cyclone and attach to the motor of your choice and an impeller.
2. If it's vented outside, no need for HEPA.
3. If cyclone is outside and you don't have klepto neighbors like mine, you don't need to worry about noise.

But yes, I'd totally go for 5 hp....says the guy who only has fancy shopvacs for dust control.

[Mike Heidrick]

Cv rated for uv light exposure outside?

[Chris Parks]

I sold dozens of CV's that are permanently outdoors on mobile test labs, four even went to Mongolia!

[Tom Dixon]

Or a ramp instead of stairs so that you can use a hand truck.


Let me throw another option...I've been thinking of the same problem.

1. Why not do a Clearvue and buy parts as needed and upgrade?
You can buy/make a cyclone and attach to the motor of your choice and an impeller.
2. If it's vented outside, no need for HEPA.
3. If cyclone is outside and you don't have klepto neighbors like mine, you don't need to worry about noise.

But yes, I'd totally go for 5 hp....says the guy who only has fancy shopvacs for dust control.


In Tennessee moisture from humidity and the rust it causes is a big issue for me. Venting outside with no return air will force a lot of unwanted moisture in the shop. I run a dehumidifier constantly and try to keep the shop humidity below 50%. The exterior shed will be sealed and insulated and there will be a filtered return duct or two so I won't draw in outside air. Venting outside for me is not an option.

Although not truly "outside" the closet shed approach should eliminate the majority of noise, especially if I baffle the air return. I probably will not be able to hear the DC over the tablesaw noise if I do it right.

As for the Clearview, I've rejected it already for various reasons not the least of which is I don't want a project cyclone DC. I know a lot of folks are passionate about it, but it's not the cyclone for me.