Veneering Melamine Vertical Surfaces

[jim wise]

Hello all,
I would like to apply paperbacked veneer to shiny most likely melamine. I will be sanding the surfaces with 100 grit sandpaper. The surfaces are vertical.

Can anyone suggest the type of adhesive I will need? I was thinking about this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006MUPXY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Thanks very much

[Jamie Buxton]

You might want to look into peel-and-stick veneer. For instance http://www.tapeease.com/PSA_veneer_sheets.htm

[Mel Fulks]

100 grit is ok ,but make sure you don't go thru the melamine. I like the plastic resin glue because can be used thin and won't make a bumpy surface. Oops ,if the material is already installed vertical ,your first choice is better

[jim wise]

The wife wants white cabinetry. Right now they are red oak. I could build the cabinets but I don't have the time right now.

We're having an addition put on to the house and the kitchen cabinets are coming into play. Cost is a major consideration. I'm going to make new doors. I did a veneer job once on mdf. It came out nice. I've read the horror stories about melamine.

The builder wants to put in thermofoil cabinets. I'm not going to swap out one crap cabinet for another crap cabinet.

[Matt Day]

Could you clarify what the existing cabinets are and what you want? I assume you want white as you said your wife wants that. How about painting them?

[John TenEyck]

I used contact cement to glue paper backed veneer on the end panels of my Melamine kitchen cabinets. That was 22 years ago and they are still fine. I can't remember if I was smart enough at the time to sand the Melamine first, but that would be a good idea.

I can tell you that epoxy doesn't work unless you completely sand off the Melamine. Last Summer my friend sanded some end panels to scuff up the coating then used West Systems epoxy to glue on 1/16" shop sawn Sapele veneer. This Winter they have peeled off like potato chips. He'll be using PSA veneer for the repair. I did some Melamine panels with epoxy but sanded off the coating completely before gluing on the 1/16" shop sawn veneer. 3 years later they are still fine.

John

[Mel Fulks]

Agree with Jim on thermo foil , very disappointing to see peeling foil that doesn't reveal some good chocolate

[Joe Jensen]

I had issues a long time ago with rosewood veneer (no paper back, thicker like veneer uses to be) applied with solvent based contact cement. No problem on the application. I used Watco oil to finish and months later the contact cement started to fail. I concluded that the oil in the veneer weakened the contact cement.

[Jim Becker]

Agree with Jim on thermo foil , very disappointing to see peeling foil that doesn't reveal some good chocolate

I like what you did there... :) :D

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OP, abrade and contact cement would be what I'd try, but thoroughly sanding the thin Melemine/foil off would be my first choice before trying to apply veneer.

[Peter Kelly]

Hello all,
I would like to apply paperbacked veneer to shiny most likely melamine. I will be sanding the surfaces with 100 grit sandpaper. The surfaces are vertical.

Can anyone suggest the type of adhesive I will need? I was thinking about this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006MUPXY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza That contact cement contains some pretty unpleasant organic compounds so I wouldn't use it indoors http://www.dap.com/media/52081/00030536001english.pdf

Also paper-backed veneer will telegraph the slightest irregularity in the substrate or glue application. Phenolic-backed material would probably be the better choice.

[Matt Day]

What am I missing? From what I gather he’s got red oak cabinets and is going to make new doors. Why isn’t paint an option?

[jim wise]

What am I missing? From what I gather he’s got red oak cabinets and is going to make new doors. Why isn’t paint an option?

The cabinet end panels and edges are most likely melamine. I don't like the idea of painting them; thinking the paint may peel. I have a sheet of red oak veneer that I have had for a long time. I figure I would veneer the cabinet sides and edges and then paint them white.

The cabinet doors are oak but are outdated cathedral style doors. My wife wants cabinets in the shaker style. I'll make new doors.

[jim wise]

That contact cement contains some pretty unpleasant organic compounds so I wouldn't use it indoors http://www.dap.com/media/52081/00030536001english.pdf

Also paper-backed veneer will telegraph the slightest irregularity in the substrate or glue application. Phenolic-backed material would probably be the better choice.

Yes, I'm aware of the fumes. I'll be refacing the cabinets in the spring time, with the windows open. Hopefully the stink will dissipate quickly. I contacted a couple of manufacturers of water-based contact adhesives and both didn't recommend their products.

[jim wise]

I like what you did there... :) :D

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OP, abrade and contact cement would be what I'd try, but thoroughly sanding the thin Melemine/foil off would be my first choice before trying to apply veneer.

The Wife and I live in Montgomery Co, PA.

[Jim Becker]

The Wife and I live in Montgomery Co, PA.
Howdy, Neighbor! 'Hope the storm didn't hurt too much in your neighborhood.

[jim wise]

Howdy, Neighbor! 'Hope the storm didn't hurt too much in your neighborhood.

We lost power but it came back on around 10:00 PM. My commute home from Doylestown was not fun.

[Jim Becker]

We lost power but it came back on around 10:00 PM. My commute home from Doylestown was not fun.
Our generator (affectionately named Matilda now) is still chugging away. And I understand about your commute...Professor Dr SWMBO got stuck in center city yesterday with several hundred thousand of her closest commuting friends when Septa shut down. It was looking like she was going to have to crash at the station for the night, but finally did get on the Fox Chase line at about 9pm when they opened that one up (the only one) so I had to drive down there to get her and then head up to Doylestown where her car was parked at the station there. We live between D'town and New Hope. :) We will have to meet for coffee or something since you work over here. :)

[jim wise]

Our generator (affectionately named Matilda now) is still chugging away. And I understand about your commute...Professor Dr SWMBO got stuck in center city yesterday with several hundred thousand of her closest commuting friends when Septa shut down. It was looking like she was going to have to crash at the station for the night, but finally did get on the Fox Chase line at about 9pm when they opened that one up (the only one) so I had to drive down there to get her and then head up to Doylestown where her car was parked at the station there. We live between D'town and New Hope. :) We will have to meet for coffee or something since you work over here. :)

Septa, ugh. My wife worked in center city. She used septa. Septa is the worst.

Sorry to here your still don't have power. My Sisters family is still without power.

[Jim Becker]

I had a whole house unit installed about a year and a half ago...without power, we have no water and no septic. But we do have natural gas. Totally worth it. :) Professor Dr. SWMBO works at a university downtown, so Septa is a necessary evil. Unfortunately the Lansdale-Doylestown line is the longest and the stretch between those two points is single tracked except for a few strategically placed passing areas. It only takes one tree or one stupid person being on the tracks to shut it down.

[Kevin Jenness]

To the OP: Do an adhesion test, on a concealed or semi-concealed area. Sand the panel to remove the gloss with 120#. Use your projected paint system, let it cure, slice an x in the film, burnish tape over the x and pull it up. That will tell you a lot. If you decide to use veneer, do a similar adhesion test for the adhesive before committing a full scale error. You may need to sand down to the substrate for best results.

Is it possible to fasten new painted panels over the old ones with screws from inside?

If you plan to paint over new veneer and new doors, use a fine grained wood. Soft maple is a good choice. Red oak is one of the worst options for painting due to its coarse texture.