CT woodmaster Resharpening service rec

[Brian Holcombe]

I searched but could not find a consensus, I have a pile of these things worn out from resawing white oak and would like to have them resharpened if it's possible.

Any recommendations on a good service would be greatly appreciated.

[John TenEyck]

Dynamic Saw in Buffalo, NY. Excellent quality, very good prices. http://dynamicsaw.com/

John

[David Kumm]

John, do they sharpen the CT specifically? There isn't much carbide on those blades. Dave

[John TenEyck]

Can't say for sure David, but they sharpen pretty much anything carbide except bandsaw blades. But you'd have to call or email them to confirm.

John

[Derek Cohen]

Brian, are you up to sharpening the blades yourself? It is quite easy, and takes me about 20 minutes. All you need is a Dremel and a diamond disk. I've posted the method here on a previous occasion (lightly stroking the back of the blade, and leaving the gullet alone) ..

https://s19.postimg.org/uoa32usv7/Bandsaw-sharpening_zpshsfsnsi9.jpg

This CT has been sharpened twice already. It can live through another two sharpenings ...

https://s19.postimg.org/qwa1lrikz/image.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Holcombe]

The trouble with this blade is that it doesn’t have a flat profile to the front of the tooth and the teeth alternate from one pattern to the next through three different patterns iirc. Are you sharpening each facet individually or squaring the tooth?

I might just sharpen the bottom of each tooth by hand.

Thanks John but these are bandsaw blades.

[Derek Cohen]

Brian, I do not touch the front of the tooth, or the gullet. I leave them alone completely. All that is ground is the back of the tooth. Very little is removed - this does take a little practice, but you should pick it up really quickly. The sharpening is in removing the wear bevel. Think about a BU plane blade. Consequently, the tooth shape is not affected. The set is reduced fractionally, but in practice I find there is too much set on the CT blades anyway - I reduce mine with a diamond plate held agains a running blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[John TenEyck]

I'm an idiot. Forget what I said before. Somehow I read CT Woodmaster and thought it was a TS blade. Had you said Lennox Woodmaster CT I would have been alright. Not your fault though.

So forget Dynamic Saw; they don't sharpen BS blades. The good news is Connecticut Tool and Saw can sharpen the Woodmaster CT, and other Lennox carbide tipped BS blades, too. They sell new ones, too, and at good prices after a quick comparison with the company I bought from before. I exchanged emails with them not more than 2 or 3 weeks ago about sharpening my CT. So give them a call or send them an Email because they can do it. http://ctsaw.com/


John

[Brian Holcombe]

Thank you both! Very much appreciated.

[Bryan Lisowski]

Brian have you called Forrest, they might be able to do and being in NJ shipping or driving the blades to them shouldn't be bad. The other place you could call is Tool Town in Paramus. I know they send their customers blades out to be sharpened, but forget the place (Ask for Ken).

[Matthew Hills]

Brian, what is your trigger to take a blade out of service?

[Jamie Buxton]

Brian, are you up to sharpening the blades yourself? It is quite easy, and takes me about 20 minutes. All you need is a Dremel and a diamond disk. I've posted the method here on a previous occasion (lightly stroking the back of the blade, and leaving the gullet alone) ..


This CT has been sharpened twice already. It can live through another two sharpenings ...


Regards from Perth

Derek

I don't understand what you are doing. When I look with a magnifier at the tips on the Woodmaster CT, they look like what would be called ATB on a circular saw. The tooth backs -- where I understand you're sharpening -- point alternately to the left and the right. To match those angles, it seems you'd have to be turning the diamond disc left and right too. And in addition, there's a raker every fifth tooth, so there's one more angle for the diamond disc.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Jamie

I am only stroking down the back of the tooth trying to keep as square as possible, following the angles behind the tooth. This is done freehand. The important area is the back of the carbide section of the tooth. The proof of the pudding ... the blades cut straight and slice through the wood with significantly less effort.

Here is a video on YouTube that is essentially the same. This uses a bench grinder, which cannot be used on a carbide blade - diamond is needed. Also, the shape of the teeth in the video is different from the CT I have, and that is the reason I stroke the back of the blade rather than "jab" it to create a flat ...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIo-JF8cn2U

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Holcombe]

Brian have you called Forrest, they might be able to do and being in NJ shipping or driving the blades to them shouldn't be bad. The other place you could call is Tool Town in Paramus. I know they send their customers blades out to be sharpened, but forget the place (Ask for Ken).

Will do, thank you.


Brian, what is your trigger to take a blade out of service?

Once they begin to wander they come off, it takes about 4-6 months of normal use for me since I use the bandsaw so routinely. These blades do not wander like crazy, they usually just wander enough that they won't cut a perfectly straight line and that's the indicator.

[Patrick Kane]

I might be incorrect, but i swear i read about somebody sending theirs to Laguna to resharpen. Maybe worth an email or call to their sharpening department? I sent my resaw king to them 2-3 times now, and like the service.