What saw for a Stanley 150 mitre box

[Robert Hartmann]

I just picked up a Stanley 150 mitre box in excellent shape and want to put it to use. I did some research, but haven't found what size saw was originally recommended. I was going to use that to base my search for a saw. I know Bad Axe has a saw basically made for this box, but I can't spend $300 for a saw when I'm not sure how much I'll use it. Anyone know what was in this or have a recommendation (length and depth)?

[Joe Bailey]

The beauty of the 150 is that you can use a backsaw of virtually any length you want, or use a regular handsaw.

go HERE (http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/pdf/Stanley%20No.%20150.pdf) if you haven't already

[Tony Zaffuto]

In my accumulation of tools, I have around 18 vintage miter boxes, no two alike. One of my favorites, is the 150: small & portable, can use whatever saw at hand, easy to adjust and cuts accurately. For me, the saw I usually use if a Wentzloff half back CC, but I also use a short #16 or a CC carcas saw. As I said, the box is very easy to adjust for whatever saw you use.

My next favorite miter box is a Langdon 16-1/2. Perfect size for small trim. Larger miter boxes ate more of carpenter tools.

[Mike Allen1010]

For what it's worth, as a Neander with recent experience in miter boxes (thanks PM), my view is the longer the saw the better - for a simple reason: given the the travel of the tooth line in a miter box is restricted fore/aft by the saw guides, the longer the saw plate, the longer the tooth line you can effectively move through the work piece.


Just my thoughts, your mileage may vary.


Best, Mike

[Joe Bailey]

For what it's worth, as a Neander with recent experience in miter boxes (thanks PM), my view is the longer the saw the better - for a simple reason: given the the travel of the tooth line in a miter box is restricted fore/aft by the saw guides, the longer the saw plate, the longer the tooth line you can effectively move through the work piece.


Just my thoughts, your mileage may vary.


Best, Mike

Mike,

Think you'd better have a look at the model 150.

It does not have fore and aft saw guides -- hence my advice.

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[steven c newman]

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[Mike Holbrook]

Ron makes a very nice saw. Mine is 20”. Ron also sells kits, so you can make your own. I also use a half-back I made from a Wentzloff kit, back when Mike offered kits.

If Ron was offering kits when I ordered my saw, I would have made my own.

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[Tony Zaffuto]

And the guides it has, are adjustable. It pays to thoroughly read the instructions to understand how this little gem works.

[Mike Holbrook]

Tony, you are such a tease! My 150s did not show up with a manual/instructions, do you have access to a link to the manual/instructions?

[Joe Bailey]

I posted a link in my first post (above)

[Mike Holbrook]

Thanks Joe, I found it, was about to repost, missed your link. Not sure if it is within forum rules to link to companies selling woodworking tools. Badaxe has a link to the 150 Manual.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Thanks Joe, I found it, was about to repost. Not sure if it is within forum rules to link to companies selling woodworking tools. Badaxe has a link to the 150 Manual.

Joe beat me to it! I've used mine with a number of different saws and the accuracy is excellent, with finish dependent upon saw used.

[Robert Hartmann]

I'm still not set on what to get, but I'm working on the wife for a Bad Axe saw. She wants a second camera body (she's an amateur photographer), so I'm trying to use that to get a new saw and band saw. But seriously, I'm leaning toward the Bad Axe. I could go the vintage route, but I have never sharpened a saw and don't have time to learn right now. Just tough to justify. Of course that hasn't stopped me before.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Look to LN or Lee Valley. Or, check "The Best Things" web site for Thomas Flin/Pax saws. Another is "Tools for Working Wood", and their Grammercy saw line. As far as sharpening, there are quite a few places to send your saw, LN re-sharpens their saws at a dirt cheap price. "Tools for Working Wood" also resharpen their saws.

[steven c newman]

While the OP is saving up the pennies...
Go into the local BORG, grab one of the plastic mitre box and saw sets...stanley would do....
Get home, either throw out the plastic box, or give it to your neighbor.
Next: you can use the saw right away, just set the guides for THAT saw. Maybe later, add a wood handle to replace the plastic thing that looks like a handle...by the time the saw does get dull, you have saved up enough to get a fancier saw.....but, at least you get to use the #150 until then.

[Robert Hartmann]

It took a while, other projects, but I finally finished restoring the miter box. I bought a cheap (and crappy) old Sears 18" Kromedge for $11 to try it out. Even with a crappy saw it cuts near perfect angles. I'm somewhat hooked, so Bad Axe here I come. My two little ones enjoy it as well, and will probably use it more. My wife just authorized the purchase of a new bandsaw, which is on the way, so I'll have to sell a couple restored hand drills (I enjoy restoring them) to get the saw.

[al heitz]

If no one has sent you a copy of the 150 miter box manual, send me a pm with your email address. I have a pdf of it that I found. I will send it to you if you are interested.

- Al Heitz

[Tony Zaffuto]

You'll love the 150! Mount it on a piece of plywood that you can clamp to your bench when needed, then put away when not needed(small enough to store easily). As I posted before many different saws can be used, the 150 is easily adjusted to accommodate many of them, giving the ability of very fine cuts.

If you want build a shooting board and you ability to cut will be as good as anyone's!

[Robert Hartmann]

If no one has sent you a copy of the 150 miter box manual, send me a pm with your email address. I have a pdf of it that I found. I will send it to you if you are interested.

- Al Heitz
Thanks Al, I have one from the Bad Axe site.

[lowell holmes]

Contact Ron here

https://www.bontzsawworks.net/

I have a 4" tall X 20" saw that Ron sent me kit for. It is a sawmill:)