T-slot bit — which one

[Bob Cooper]

Whiteside 3070 or 3075? I’d like a good bit to use in place of buying t-track.

Related question I guess is... Do you guys just buy t-track or do you cut slots as I’m considering doing

[Ray Newman]

From what I read about others' experiences using a T-slot bit:

--Buy a good bit from a known and quality manufacturer.
--Hog out most of the waste with a straight bit, then clean it up with the T-slot bit.

I have never considered making my own T-slot track as it always was easier and quicker to buy it.

[Bruce Page]

What material are you planning to mill t-tracks into?
This company sells aluminum t-track for a lot cheaper than I could make it for.
http://www.orangealuminum.com/t-slot-framing-systems-and-tracks/t-track.html

[Edwin Santos]

Hi,

I used the Lee Valley T-slot bit #16J60. The ones you listed from Whiteside are huge, designed for making slatwall not for making the t-track size slot that I think you are seeking. Like Ray points out, I would cut the waste with a straight bit first (1/4" or 5/16") and then finish with the t-slot bit. You won't need to change your fence setting because the centerline for both cuts will be the same.

I do have some aluminum t-track around, but I often cut the slot with the bit instead of t-track. I like making slots in them for clamping fixtures and moveable stop blocks. The t-slot bolts Lee Valley sells are very nice, which you can use with wing nuts or jig knobs, as are the t-slot nuts that you can use on any machine screws. My crosscut sleds have t slots in them for moving stop blocks and indexing pins. I've done the same on my router table fence facings and drill press fence.
Edwin

[Rick Potter]

I have several router table fences with t-slots, as well as a 4' fence on my RAS. All are made from melamine coated PB.

I run a saw kerf, with several quick passes to fit the 5/16 t-bolts, then a quick finish pass on the router table, using the t-slot bit.

I also make a few extra fence boards at the same time. Handy for quick miter gage fences, and the like. Good use for scraps.

The fence on my RAS is about 15 years old, and still going strong.


PS: If you make all the slots the same height on the finished fence, you can interchange sliding stops on the various tools.

[glenn bradley]

Seems no one looked at the bits you are considering. These are slot-wall bits not t-track bits. With a large diameter of 1-1/16" the head of most t-bolts will simply spin around and not grab. Since you mention using them instead of buying t-track I will assume you are actually after something more like what Amana and Rockler offer. A large diameter of about 5/8" max is used for many 5/16" t-bolts and a maximum diameter of 1/2" will work for many 1/4" t-bolts. My actual track in the shop measures 9/16" and 7/16" respectively; I have Incra, Rockler, BenchDog and others. I have mostly standardized on Rockler's Universal Track since it accepts 5/16" t's and 1/4" t's and hex heads but, this doesn't help you with cutting your own.

If you are primarily cutting for 1/4" hardware I would go with something like the Amana 45652. If you are running the heavier 5/16" hardware the 45664 would work. I have also cut a 5/16" straight slot and then used a keyhole bit to add the "T". I have cut slots in many materials. Plywood is the only material that failed. I guess I wan't thinking when I expected the direction of the pressure not to pull the layers apart ;-)

[Richard Gonzalez]

Search for Whiteside’s keyhole bits if you want the equivalent of t-track. I used the Whiteside 3053 to make t-slots in my CNC Router spoilboard. Worked great. Plungeable and no need to precut the slot.

[Roy Turbett]

I just bought a 1/2" slot cutter from a big box store and use it for making zero clearance fences for my miter gauge. I also use it to cut slots in the sacrificial top in my radial arm saw to hold down jigs and featherboards.

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