Joe Judge
11-11-2005, 10:49 PM
American Woodturner (fall 2005) has an article on turning handles for screwdrivers. So, I turned a few ... screwed up a few ... and figured some things out.
Here are picts (http://www.woodturner.org/sym/sym2005/photos/PhotoDisplay.cfm?record=198) of the author's handles.
Here is mine (purpleheart) ... notes on making it below...
http://personal.intrusion.org/%7Ejoe/sawmill/DCP02276.JPG
Please tell me if you've tried this or learned any tricks to make this work better.
Here is what I've learned:
1- There are a series postings, magazine articles, etc of the "nice tools for woodworkers" theme that is getting to me:
- make your own marking knife
- make your own marking gauge
- replace the cheapie japanese draw/razor/dozuki saw handle with a hand made hardwood handle
... and this ..
- make your own hardwood screwdrive handle
2- The 6-in-1 multi-screwdriver that you get from Home Depot here in Waltham are Buck Brothers (orange handle) and some acrylic handled ones. Prices vary.
3- I've torn apart a couple various brands, they appear to all use the same metal parts
- small phillips + regular bit
- larger (diameter) phillips + regular bit
- metal bit holder that is slightly thicker (diameter) on one 1/2 than the other
- the "nut" that the bit driver sockets into
4- The fatter diameter side is slight but it will BITE you, if you follow the article's drilling details. It says to drill a 7/16" long hole into your wood blank ... then a short 5/8" hole for the nut.
I've found that the 7/16 is just rubbing against the "thicker" half of the shaft -- maybe I've got my 5/8 hole off center? nut in at an angle?
So, I have to figure out what to do about this rubbing. I may just do a 1/2" down the length, instead of the 7/16.
The 5/8" little hole appears slightly larger than needed, but the corners of the nut do bite into the wood. However, the depth needs to be deeper than the 1/2" noted in the article.
5- If you use a hard, hardwood ... it can split when you force the nut in :-(
So, I think you need to chisel some "corners" into 6 points of the 5/8" hole. That way the nut can slide in a bit easier, not crack, and also have something besides epoxy to twist against.
-- joe
Here are picts (http://www.woodturner.org/sym/sym2005/photos/PhotoDisplay.cfm?record=198) of the author's handles.
Here is mine (purpleheart) ... notes on making it below...
http://personal.intrusion.org/%7Ejoe/sawmill/DCP02276.JPG
Please tell me if you've tried this or learned any tricks to make this work better.
Here is what I've learned:
1- There are a series postings, magazine articles, etc of the "nice tools for woodworkers" theme that is getting to me:
- make your own marking knife
- make your own marking gauge
- replace the cheapie japanese draw/razor/dozuki saw handle with a hand made hardwood handle
... and this ..
- make your own hardwood screwdrive handle
2- The 6-in-1 multi-screwdriver that you get from Home Depot here in Waltham are Buck Brothers (orange handle) and some acrylic handled ones. Prices vary.
3- I've torn apart a couple various brands, they appear to all use the same metal parts
- small phillips + regular bit
- larger (diameter) phillips + regular bit
- metal bit holder that is slightly thicker (diameter) on one 1/2 than the other
- the "nut" that the bit driver sockets into
4- The fatter diameter side is slight but it will BITE you, if you follow the article's drilling details. It says to drill a 7/16" long hole into your wood blank ... then a short 5/8" hole for the nut.
I've found that the 7/16 is just rubbing against the "thicker" half of the shaft -- maybe I've got my 5/8 hole off center? nut in at an angle?
So, I have to figure out what to do about this rubbing. I may just do a 1/2" down the length, instead of the 7/16.
The 5/8" little hole appears slightly larger than needed, but the corners of the nut do bite into the wood. However, the depth needs to be deeper than the 1/2" noted in the article.
5- If you use a hard, hardwood ... it can split when you force the nut in :-(
So, I think you need to chisel some "corners" into 6 points of the 5/8" hole. That way the nut can slide in a bit easier, not crack, and also have something besides epoxy to twist against.
-- joe