Disston D12

[lowell holmes]

I was doing some remembering today. I do a lot of that since Harvey came to visit.
I remembered I have one, but panicked, not sure where it is. It turn out that it
is where I left it.
Check these links for an explanation.

http://hus-saws1.wkfinetools.com/Disston/tools/d_1910-D12-26-Weir/1910-D12-26-01.asp

http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/

Mine came to me with a broken handle and no saw nuts. It now has a maple handle that I made
and new saw nuts. It is 10 point crosscut.

The D12 is considered by some to be the best saw Disston made.
Tomorrow, I will cut a board with it just to do it and gloat a tiny bit.

[Patrick Chase]

The D12 is considered by some to be the best saw Disston made.
Tomorrow, I will cut a board with it just to do it and gloat a tiny bit.

I recently bought a pair of D12s (rip and xcut) from a "vintage saws" dealer who is well known on SMC. They were basically a revelation for me. They cut blazingly fast and straight even in my inexperienced hands.

[Mike Allen1010]

Lowell,


I'm glad your Disston D – 12 survived the recent hurricane. I'm sure your effort in building a new Maple handle and finding the requisite saw nuts will absolutely be worthwhile.


IMHO, the difference in the double taper of the saw plate and the hand tensioning of premium, top-of-the-line saws like the Disston # 12/D12, as compared to the more common, entry-level saws like the D – 8 is underestimated by many hand tool woodworker's. I don't want to give the wrong impression - IMHO , all the saws manufactured by leading suppliers during the Golden era 1850 – 1950 offer tangible benefits that make them superior to any saws currently manufactured.


I just restored/sharpened a Disston pre-1928 D-8 and a Disston #16, and the difference between the absolute width of the saw plate at the heel/tooth line and the degree of taper to the opposite toe/top line, was significantly different.


My sincerest apologies – I lost the shop notes with the actual numbers, and I fully appreciate that in the absence of hard numbers, my comments may not seem credible. I have no ax to grind or incentive other than sharing my experience/knowledge of my fellow Neanders. That said, IMHO the difference in performance between top-of-the-line and entry-level saws at offered by leading manufacturers is in fact tangible. In my view, not surprising given the the competitive market forces that compel leading manufacturers to produce premium, top-of-the-line saws that appealed to the most demanding customers like master cabinet maker/trim carpenters whose livelihood depended upon using the most efficient and effective tools.


I know that probably sounds like "saw esoterica" to most woodworkers. As a 20 year year hand tool woodworker who has sharpened/tuned hundreds of saws, I would encourage my fellow Neanders to experience for themselves of the difference between top-of-the-line, premium models offer by Golden era manufacturers, as compared to their entry-level models. Your mileage may vary, just my thoughts.


All the best, Mike

[steven c newman]

Been using a D-112 lately it was only made for one year....the No.112 preceded it,....
379592
I merely cleaned it up....works like new. 7ppi skew back. It has been taking the place of my 1953 Disston D-8, lately...

[Ray Selinger]

As an apprentices we had to do a month in vocational school every year. They call the place a technical college , now. This was back when handsaws were in daily use. One year we had to frame a fancy roof model and had to use only handsaws. The school supplied D-12s. It was a WoW moment.


Thanks to low opinion of handsaws, I have been able to pick up a couple of D-12s and three Sandvik #280s for under $10 each.

[Tony Zaffuto]

I'm partial to #16's and have at least a half dozen. Love the straight back and the feel. I also have a D12 or two, butmy hand automatically goes to a #16.

[lowell holmes]

I've never held or seen a #16. If I run across one, I will be tempted.