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Charles Bjorgen
02-21-2018, 5:23 PM
Because of the size of the opening we can’t use a prehung door. We’re not carpenters here so am wondering what it takes to fit the door and install hinges in the door and frame. This is to enclose a sound recording booth. I’m aware there might be a tool that will help locate hinges on both the frame and door. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Ted Derryberry
02-21-2018, 5:35 PM
It's called a hinge template jig, but at around $200 it's not worth it for a one off job. I hung a lot of doors without one when I was in construction. Basically just lay out your hinges from the top down on the jamb and the door with the door hinges being 1/8" (typical) closer to the top than the jamb to create the gap. Mortise them to the depth of the hinge leaf. As for the depth from the face of the door that depends on the size of the hinge and thickness of the door but it's generally about 1/8" short of the "back" side of the door. Look at other doors in the same building and see what they did. When I didn't have a jig I'd score the top and bottom of the hinge and use an edge guide on the router for the depth from the face. A plunge base makes it easy to set the thickness of the hinge leaf. Carefully route up to your score lines and then in clean out in between. All that's left is cleaning out the corners with a chisel if they're square hinges. If they have a radius you need the bit to match.

The jig I mentioned above sets up all 3 (or 4) hinges at one time so the spacing is dead on. There are also single hinge templates for about $25. They would probably be worth the price even for one job. You just still have to lay out each location.

lowell holmes
02-21-2018, 5:46 PM
https://www.mnwwg.org/

Attend a meeting at the woodworker's club and see if someone there will not help you.

I know you could get help at the Houston club.

Peter Christensen
02-21-2018, 5:57 PM
I have the jig Lee Valley sell (http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40219&cat=1,43000,40219). Works well enough of occasional use.

Tom M King
02-21-2018, 6:53 PM
What is the size of the opening? I built spec houses for 33 years (the last 11 years working on museum houses since then), and never used a prehung door. I have hanging doors down to a science.

Michael Pyron
02-21-2018, 8:17 PM
Because of the size of the opening we can’t use a prehung door. We’re not carpenters here so am wondering what it takes to fit the door and install hinges in the door and frame. This is to enclose a sound recording booth. I’m aware there might be a tool that will help locate hinges on both the frame and door. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks in advance.

this really all comes down to $...I know in my town, Austin, Tx, there are various options for custom ordering doors of ANY size...skipping a middleman you can possibly order direct from TruStile...this of course will cost

laying a door out for hinges is pretty simple...I usually go 6" from the top of door to top of hinge and 10" from bottom of door to bottom of that hinge...for a 6-8 door I'll use 3 hinges, for an 8-0 I'll use 4...measures for hinge locations can be fudged a bit to give a nice even number...

for accuracy's sake I oftimes just do all hinges on door, but only top and bottom on jamb, and then when attached to jamb transfer layout from door directly to jamb (**it happens) to avoid any small errors that can ruin your day

but that's just fabrication of parts...hanging the sucker properly is something I rarely see these days (for that matter, in the past also)...that is arguably more important than just making the parts and can easily make a door install FAIL bigly

mreza Salav
02-22-2018, 12:15 AM
Make a template from plywood for the hinges to route, keep in mind the spacing of the top hinge on the jamb is 1/8" more than the top hinge to the top of the door. Flip the template over to the jamb (not top to bottom, flip the face so the top hinge template is the same on both; this will ensure that if the spacing of the template between hinges is even a small tiny bit different the hinges mortises line up perfectly). Here are a bunch of doors I made for our house.

379595379594

Charles Bjorgen
02-22-2018, 6:27 AM
Thanks for your comments. No decisions yet but will let you know of progress or lack.

Jared Sankovich
02-22-2018, 8:03 AM
If its a odd size, are you building the jamb as well?

For one door I'd be tempted to just Mark and chisel out the hinge pockets. Hanging it is more of a pain than adding hinges.

Mdf works well enough for hinge templates
379598

lowell holmes
02-22-2018, 11:03 AM
If its a odd size, are you building the jamb as well?

For one door I'd be tempted to just Mark and chisel out the hinge pockets. Hanging it is more of a pain than adding hinges.

Mdf works well enough for hinge templates
379598

Outline the hinge pocket with a razor knife and then chisel it out.. The chisel should be razor sharp.
see the link below for hones.
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Diamond-Stones-C3.aspx

Mike Cary
02-22-2018, 11:14 AM
My advice for what it’s worth, look at the ideas presented to you so far. Estimate the cost of the supplies they suggested, figure out what the price of your frustration might be, evaluate your skill level, then find out what it would cost to have someone do it for you.

andy bessette
02-22-2018, 11:17 AM
First fit the door to the opening, leaving about 1/16" clearance all around. Let the hinges into the door, then transfer their locations to the frame. Mortising can be done by hand or with a router and template.

Charles Bjorgen
02-22-2018, 3:56 PM
Change of plans for now. Part of the problem was to block out sound from the forced air furnace which actually is in another room but still transmits its sound. That doesn’t seem to work so now the plan is to move the recording booth to another area in the basement. Nevertheless, thanks for your suggestions. We may still need to install a door at that point.

Ted Derryberry
02-22-2018, 7:59 PM
1/16th inch clearance is on the tight side. It might be appropriate for a multi-million dollar custom home, but 1/8" clearance is more typical.

I would use a router to remove the bulk of the material even if you finish to the score lines with a chisel just because its so much easier to maintain a consistent depth, which is pretty important with hinges. Of course they can be shimmed back out if necessary.