Drawer slides

[Larry Foster]

Thanks in advance, again.

I'm fumbling through my first real shop project and hit a stumbling block.
BTW, it's a flip top tool stand with a bottom drawer.

Anyhow, I made a mistake and had to modify the drawer on the bottom.
Instead of rebuilding the drawer, I continued.
The problem is I, now, only have 1/4" on each side between the drawer and cabinet side.

The slides I bought (cheap ones) won't fit.
Are there slides made that will fit?
I'm guessing I could take some 1/4" wood and make wooden slides?

A different question.
One side of the table will be for my miter saw.
Undecided on the other side.
Leaning to putting my router table which would free up the floor space my quick and dirty router table stand sits now.

The other possibilities would be a jointer or, possibly, my drill press

[Lee Schierer]

You don't say how large the drawer is or how thick the drawer sides are. Rockler carries some miniature drawer slides (http://www.rockler.com/mini-ball-bearing-drawer-slides-select-length) that are only 3/8" thick that might work if you can recess them 1/8" into your drawer sides.

[Nick Lazz]

Larry, you should dimension your drawers around the drawer slides you are going to use. Typically side mount slides require 1/2" clearance on each side of the drawer so your drawer would be 1" under the opening width. For undermount, at least Blum, they require 3/16" on each side. It's okay to start over...especially if it's just the one drawer. We'll give you the mulligan. I take them all the time....winter rules you know. ;)

[Larry Foster]

Thanks, Lee and Nick.
The drawer is 26" wide and 20" deep.

Nick, the plans didn't specify a slide other than a 20" extension slide.

Where the mistake was made I ended up putting the sides of the drawer on the outside of the front and back because of a previous mistake.

My first thoughts were to call it "good enough" and chalk it up to experience because of how long I've been fooling with this.
Have to pick times because I don't have much heat in the shop to be a free Uber driver for my 2 adult children who don't drive.

Another thought is to go on with the rest of the project and come back to the drawer later.

[Matt Day]

Come back to it later, but develope a game plan on how to deal with it when the time comes. What is the drawer side thickness? If 3/4”, You’ve got room to recess as said above.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks, Matt.
It is 3/4"

I used pocket holes and don't think I glued it.
The bottom is 1/4" and glued but I was thinking I can score it.
It shouldn't be a hard fix now that I think about it.
and the insights I've gotten here.

[Yonak Hawkins]

Larry, my drawer sides are normally 5/8" thick and I usually put the slides in a dado in the drawer sides 5/16" deep, leaving about 3/16" between drawer sides and opening. I use 3/8" screws, grinding about 1/16" of the tip off. I do this to maximize the volume of the drawer and because I don't like the look of a big gap between drawer and opening. This is for my home drawers. I'm not a cabinet professional.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for that tip, Yonak.

[Rick Moyer]

You can try to re-engineer it, but I suspect you'll be quicker and more satisfied if you just build a new drawer. (Speaking from very recent experience of doing the same thing!:()

[Larry Foster]

You may be right, Rick.
If it comes apart easily, I'll just re-dimension.
It probably won't so I'll end up following your advice.

[Larry Foster]

I'm still confused.
But, that's my normal state.

Appreciate if someone would help me out.

Although I didn't have any time for the shop today, I wanted to check something.

My drawer opening is 26-15/16 and the drawer is 26-1/16 which leaves 7/8" for a gap on each side of 7/16"
The slides I am using seem to be 3/8" wide/thick.

That leaves me 1/16" on each side if I built this true.
Pretty tight, I know.

I have cheap Richelieu 20" 3/4 extension traditional side mount slides.

Even if I rebuilt new, how much room do I need?
Thank you

[Yonak Hawkins]

Larry, the entire thickness of the slide does not protrude through the opening, half of the slide (however, not half the thickness) remains inside the cabinet.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks.
I think I understand that.
Let me ask another way.

How much room should there be between the cabinet carcass sides and the drawer sides for the installation of the slide?

When the drawer is closed, the whole slide is inside the cabinet.

[Yonak Hawkins]

Larry, there are instructional videos aplenty on the internet. I'm sorry I can't intelligently answer your question but I am only really familiar with one type of slide and there are many styles. Whatever answer I give may not be appropriate for your slides.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks.
I've been looking at lots of stuff but don't seem to be smart enough to figure it out.

Doesn't seem like it should be rocket surgery

[Rick Moyer]

If you have the Richelieu slides that Lowes sells, they say in the packaging to have 1" difference between the carcass opening and the drawer width.

edit: anectodally; I made a nightstand that used a few Blum slides and one of those Richelieu slides. The Blums I even installed before making the drawers and they work great but the Richelieu slide was the one I had to rebuild the drawer for. This is partly because of the small tolerance, but mostly because of an error I made. I made a jig to shave off some of the drawer sides a wee bit, but I wasn't happy with it in the end and just made a new drawer.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for that info, Rick.
Yes, I have the cheap white ones from Lowe's.

While I want the project to be half decent and functional, it's my first project with some other flaws and it's in my little hobby shop and no one but me will see.
And I've learned some things that will help on the next project(s).

If I get out there today, I'm going to see if I can shave 1/8" and try again

[Larry Foster]

We'll see how this works when I get back.

I shaved 1/8" from one side of the drawer.
Will try the slides when I get back from errands.

Wish me luck.

[Rick Moyer]

I was referring to the full extension silver ones. Not sure the tolerances on the white ones.

[lowell holmes]

I would use the drawer without slides. If needed, you could put shims in on the cabinet carcass.

[Larry Foster]

Now you tell me, Lowell.
I'd thought of that when I was starting to have problems.

I'm trying to use this project as a learning experience and will have to figure out drawer slides eventually.

[Larry Foster]

Drawer slides win this battle.

I need to figure these things out because I have a pile of them I bought a while back for something else

[Lee Schierer]

I'm still confused.
But, that's my normal state.

Appreciate if someone would help me out.

Although I didn't have any time for the shop today, I wanted to check something.

My drawer opening is 26-15/16 and the drawer is 26-1/16 which leaves 7/8" for a gap on each side of 7/16"
The slides I am using seem to be 3/8" wide/thick.

That leaves me 1/16" on each side if I built this true.
Pretty tight, I know.

I have cheap Richelieu 20" 3/4 extension traditional side mount slides.

Even if I rebuilt new, how much room do I need?
Thank you

I looked at the Richelieu site (https://www.richelieu.com/us/en/category/hinges-slides-and-opening-systems/slides/1064528?nf_1009219=%281195360%29)and all the slides I saw require 1/2" per side clearance for the slide. You are 1/16" less than that per side, so you need to make an adjustment. The easiest is to remove 1/16" of material from the side of your drawer box where the slide will mount. Removing this material will not affect the strength of your drawer.

If you can post a photo of the drawer box, cabinet and slides we can give you better instructions.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks, Lee.
Several days ago I was able to shave 1/8" from the drawer.
Tried again to mount the slides and they kept jamming.

I think part of the difficulty is that I'm working in a space that is only 4" high.
Another is my eyes aren't as good as they once were.

I'll grab some pics tomorrow.

Appreciate the offer

[Bob Cooper]

Larry are you openings square or at least is the left to right measurement at the front of your cabinet the same as the back? If for example it gets narrower in the back that can cause all kind of frustration

[Larry Foster]

Thanks, all, for generously and graciously sticking with me.

The openings are square and the left to right measurement is the same front and back.

No one asked but I have my left and right sides correct.

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The bottom one is the right side of the drawer.

The plans for the stand say to mount the slides to the carcass 1-1/2" from the bottom and to use a 1/8" shim under the drawer for the drawer slides.

He is using a different slide.

The instructions with the slides say to mount on the bottom but I can't see how to do that.

I have an idea to try today and if that doesn't work I can pick up a different slide tomorrow

[Nick Lazz]

Larry, if the bottom picture is the right side of the drawer...is it possible you have the slides mounted backwards? On those type of slides the wheel should be at the rear of the drawer, at least with similar slides I have seen.
It may be the picture, but it also looks like they are mounted slightly off level from the top of the drawer loooking left to right.

[Larry Foster]

I misspoke, Nick.
That is the left side of the drawer

But, you are very observant regarding the level of the slide on the drawer.
The right side is lower than the side with a roller.

Just have to figure out whether to lower the left side (I think that raises the drawer) or raise the right side

[Larry Foster]

I may have stumbled on to part of my problem.
My drawer is fairly close top to bottom.

I'm going to shave a little off the top.

I'll be back

[Rick Moyer]

Larry FYI: you should (temporarily) first install the drawer component of the slide with the screws in the vertical holes, then once the drawer is working to your satisfaction, remove one at a time and put the screws in the small round holes. This is so you have some vertical adjustment before finally installed. You also do similar with the cabinet parts but there you use the horizontal holes first and then the small round holes. This all allows some initial adjustments before final screw placement.

May not bet the problem you're having but could help in the future. As you are finding out, drawer slides can be a PITA.

[Yonak Hawkins]

Thanks for that good advice, Rick.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for that tip, Rick.

My learning curve is gigantic.

Shaving the drawer was the answer.
It's in and functioning.

Next step.

It would, probably, surprise no one to learn that I was a mercy pass in 8th grade shop.
First and only "D" I ever got.

The irony is I worked for a builder and did most everything on building a house.
Also, substantially rehabbed some investment properties.

This woodworking thing is a little different.

It will take a little while before any of my stuff qualifies as "fine woodworking"
:o