Malcolm Schweizer
02-19-2018, 7:29 AM
Here is a quick tutorial I took images of last night showing how I do shell inlays using thin laminate. I get the laminate from Aqua Blue Maui. Theirs is twice as good as others I have tried. The laminate is a fraction of a mm thick- like thick paper. It has special needs when I laying. You CANNOT sand it flush- it is too thin- so you need to get it just right. I set the inlay about .01mm below the surface and fill with epoxy, then scrape it flush.
Here is the laminate as it comes.
379362
The secret is to tape the back with blue masking tape. This makes it stay together when cut. I will leave the tape on the back and score it and use epoxy to glue it in. I’m sure I will get backlash for this but in 15 years I have yet to have one fail. Image shows waste after cutting the inlay because I didn’t take a before of the tape. You can also glue it to card stock to make it easier to handle, but without a backer it will fall apart unless you laser cut it.
379363
I tape the pattern to the material and then cut it out with scissors. Fingernail scissors are best for tight corners. Regular scissors are best for straight lines. I use punches to punch out inside curves.
379364
This thin laminate works best for large inlays that would take a lot of the expensive thicker stuff. I use thick material for smaller inlays.
Next I tape the inlay to the workpiece and veeeery carefully trace around it. For this mahogany I used white Pica pencil. Then I use a Dremel with a plunge base and set it for about 3 times the thickness of the material. This allows for the glue layer below and the epoxy layer on top. I first go all around the edges with a sharp razor knife (like Xacto) and then I route the edges of the piece with the Dremel. STAy INSIDE the lines. The line should still show when done.
379365
Next I either route or chisel the waste- in this case a little of both- and use a knife to touch up the points where the Dremel bit couldn’t fit.
379366
Because of photo limits, I will continue with the next comments.
Here is the laminate as it comes.
379362
The secret is to tape the back with blue masking tape. This makes it stay together when cut. I will leave the tape on the back and score it and use epoxy to glue it in. I’m sure I will get backlash for this but in 15 years I have yet to have one fail. Image shows waste after cutting the inlay because I didn’t take a before of the tape. You can also glue it to card stock to make it easier to handle, but without a backer it will fall apart unless you laser cut it.
379363
I tape the pattern to the material and then cut it out with scissors. Fingernail scissors are best for tight corners. Regular scissors are best for straight lines. I use punches to punch out inside curves.
379364
This thin laminate works best for large inlays that would take a lot of the expensive thicker stuff. I use thick material for smaller inlays.
Next I tape the inlay to the workpiece and veeeery carefully trace around it. For this mahogany I used white Pica pencil. Then I use a Dremel with a plunge base and set it for about 3 times the thickness of the material. This allows for the glue layer below and the epoxy layer on top. I first go all around the edges with a sharp razor knife (like Xacto) and then I route the edges of the piece with the Dremel. STAy INSIDE the lines. The line should still show when done.
379365
Next I either route or chisel the waste- in this case a little of both- and use a knife to touch up the points where the Dremel bit couldn’t fit.
379366
Because of photo limits, I will continue with the next comments.