First workbench decision

[Rich Groeber]

Pretty new to the hobby about two years now
About a year and a half ago I got a bunch of lumber from my work.
2- 14/4x12"x7' red oak and poplar timbers
About 30 7/4x10"x7' white oak boards all rough sawn. After a some practice and a few projects I'm looking to make my first workbench. My question to you guys is, should I use the timbers for the bench tops and the boards for legs n stretchers. Using the oak as the main working area. Or use the white oak boards in a glue up? I have all the necessary tools to process the lumber. Any knowledge, thoughts or options would be appreciated.
Thanks Rich

[Phil Mueller]

Hello Rich, and welcome to SMC!
Just a bit of clarification. Do you have one 14/4x12x7 red oak and one 14/4x12x7 poplar? What kind of bench do you have in mind?

[Rich Groeber]

Yes, one of each
I was thinking split top roubo
I would only be working at the bench on one side do to it's location in the shop. That's the side I would use the oak.
Was just wondering if there was a down side to using timbers instead of a glue?(i.e. stability, strength,)

[Phil Mueller]

I think you would be fine going with the slabs. Here’s an older thread that discusses the issue:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?181624-Workbench-Slabs-or-boards

[Charles Lent]

If using only one oak board for the top and cutting it in half to double the width, that's going to be one very short, but very HEAVY workbench.

The most solid, and slightly on the heavy side, workbench top that I've ever owned was made using a solid wood commercial door. I can't imagine wrestling a workbench around that was made with a 14/4 oak top, but the poplar should do well cut up the make the legs and base frame..

We are going to need progress pictures.

Charley

[Jim Becker]

Oak for the top; poplar for the structure. Why? The top will hold up better that way since the oak is a lot more durable. While I personally love working with poplar, a banch top isn't an application I'd use it for.

[Robert Engel]

Not only what Jim said, but glued up boards for the top will be much stabler than solid timbers.

Plus, it will just look better.

[Jim Becker]

Glued up planks are perfectly fine for a bench top...narrow boards are not required. This presumes, of course, that the material is dry and stable.

[Rich Groeber]

Thanks Phil that's what I was looking for

Charley: I was thinking of using both the poplar and oak for the top. Split top roubo style with a gap between the two for tools etc. the oak side being the main working side

[andy bessette]

I'd glue up the 7/4 for the entire top and use the other for legs, frame and cabinet.

[John TenEyck]

Contrary viewpoint here, maybe. If you do a lot of handwork build a Roubo or other Euro style bench; it will serve you well. But if you are mostly a power tool user a big flat work surface will likely be far more useful. It is for me. I built a Euro style bench long ago and almost never use it. It's too small (but larger than most hand workers use) and too low for most of the work I do. The bench I use every day, and have for nearly 30 years, is a 36" x 96" lab bench top with a sheet of 1/8" Masonite tacked on top on a 2 x 4 base. I don't even have a vise on it. When I need one, or two, I have that rarely used Euro bench, if I can get the clutter off it.

Just sayin'

John

[John Blazy]

What kind of bench dogs do you plan on, round or square? Pros and cons to each. I bought two brass round dogs from Lee Valley about 25 years ago when I made my bench (haven't lost them yet) then made four more from 3/4" dowels for multipoint holds. If you go square, you need to plan your cuts prior to glueup.

[John Blazy]

Contrary viewpoint here, maybe. If you do a lot of handwork build a Roubo or other Euro style bench; it will serve you well. But if you are mostly a power tool user a big flat work surface will likely be far more useful. It is for me. I built a Euro style bench long ago and almost never use it. It's too small (but larger than most hand workers use) and too low for most of the work I do. The bench I use every day, and have for nearly 30 years, is a 36" x 96" lab bench top with a sheet of 1/8" Masonite tacked on top on a 2 x 4 base. I don't even have a vise on it. When I need one, or two, I have that rarely used Euro bench, if I can get the clutter off it.

Just sayin'

John
I'm like you John, where my most used surfaces are the three or five plywood-on-sawhorses tops, but I use my vise and dogs on my euro-style bench nearly two to four days a week. So what I'm saying is clean off your **** Euro bench, and you'll thank me later. Just kidding, as it depends entirely on what your building. But seriously, I am addicted to my quick release vise, and use the dogs constantly when sanding / buffing etc and want to sand entire surface without moving clamps.

[John TenEyck]

Yeah, everyone works in their own way. I lay flat parts to be sanded on a foam mat. That protects the bottom and keeps them from moving around.

My Euro bench (Frank Klausz design, mostly) was the hardest thing I had every built when I made it. I just had to have one. Never have used it enough to justify the space it occupies, though, which is why I brought it up to the OP. Thankfully, most all the wood it took to build it was darned near free; the only really expense being for the vise screws.

John

[lowell holmes]

Check Lowes and Home Depot .

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sjobergs-27-937-in-W-x-35-437-in-H-Wood-Work-Bench/50296511

Also, prefab kitchen counters make good bench tops.

Also, Harbor Freight has workebches,