Festool Multi-Function Table -- Do you have one? Do you like it?

[George Bokros]

I purchased a couple of the Micro Jig dovetail clamps and was going to cut some dovetails into a bench I have to use the clamps as hold downs for things like sanding and routing. Then I thought they would just be in the way. My next thought was they are similar in function to the ones used on the Festool multi-function table. So thought I would see who has one of those and what they thought of using the clamps to hold work down.

I realize that the dovetail clamps would not provide all the functionality of the Festool multi-function table but they would provide the hold down capability.

So guy and gals if you have a Festool multi-function table do you use the clamps to hold work down and if so what are your thoughts/opinions??

Thanks

[Ralph Okonieski]

The MFT is one of my favorite and useful tools in the shop. I struggled whether to purchase or not but decided to anyway. It was a great decision.

i use it for sanding and clamping panels mostly. It can hold wood vertical for cutting dovetails but it is too unstable (shakes) for that and hand planing IMHO. That is where a good heavy worktable is used.

with the attached track saw, it also provides me with options for easily cutting specific pieces such as molding. I can set the cabinet saw for one type of cut and the track saw on the MFT for other and not have to change setups.

[Jim Becker]

If I had had my MFT before I put my primary bench together, the top on that bench would be setup the same way. The MFT is very useful in so many ways and I really like it; both for in the shop and when I need to work elsewhere. It really is portable. :) I have an older version which was "shorter", although the top is slightly larger than the current version. There's a thread here where I raised mine up to match the current normal 900mm height which is more comfortable than the older, lower setup.

As to clamps, I don't have the Festool set. They are nice, but to-date, I haven't felt the need for that specific setup. I do use Parf Dogs and recently retrofitted a couple to be similar to the fixed dogs in the Festool set for supporting the ends of boards, such as when using the Domino. There are a number of great 20mm dog and clamp solutions available to support however you prefer to work.

[Dick Mahany]

I was without a shop while having a new home built and needed something that would serve as an all-purpose bench. I decided to get an MFT3. Wish I had done this much earlier. It is great for all types of clamping and work holding, with different types of clamps. Also, the holes are CNC machined in a perfectly square arrangement which allows for some very useful work arrangement for cutting or clamping at 90 and 45 degrees (among others). I have used that feature many times to assist in door frame gluing, drawer box assembly and much more. With the right clamps, it made for quick work when installing and trimming edge banding on plywood panels. I am finding more uses for it all the time.

It is expensive for what it is and I have never used the protractor for anything other than holding the fence along the rear of the table. The leg cross braces help stability significantly, but cost extra. The MFT would not be a choice (for me) for hand planing or any activities where one needs a rock solid, heavy mass below the work, but for 90% of my work it is just a joy to use.

I decided to make a mobile cart and an auxiliary top that can be paired with it for a larger work surface and the combination is very flexible. Most of the time, I keep the MFT folded and on top of the cart as my "shop" is very limited on space. I do have a few Festools, but am not a Festool fanboy. The MFT is one of those things that was a game changer for me as I learned how to make use of its versatility and I'd buy it again without batting an eye.

379305

379307

[Barry Block]

I own the MFT and its like most festool tools. I cringed when I bought it but quickly realized it was the right purchase. I use to own a woodworking business which found me doing a lot of work out in the field and it was time consuming and a pain to set up something which served as a decent bench. While the mft is heavier then I would like it fit the bill. Now that I have down sized and am working out of a small basement shop I find the MFT perfect for a extra surface area when I need it and when I don't I can collapse it and get it out of my way.

[Victor Robinson]

Do I like having a work table that does what the MFT does? Absolutely.

Do I like that I’ve paid an astronomical amount for one - twice? Absolutely not.

[John Kee]

I've been using 2 of them in the shop since 2008. The knock down feature is nice and allows you to open up work space. The clamping is accurate and most of the clamps work well. The major con now is that the price is has literally doubled and IMHO is in the stupid zone for buying, great for me if I want sell because I can probably make more than I paid for them.

[mark mcfarlane]

George, if you are considering adding a grid of holes to an existing bench, you need to consider the thickness of the top. The festool C clamps slide through the holes at an angle and if the top is too thick they won't fit. I'm contemplating drilling wider holes on the bottom of my bench to resolve this problem.

I still use my mft and enjoy for reasons others have stated.

[Jim Becker]

George, if you are considering adding a grid of holes to an existing bench, you need to consider the thickness of the top. The festool C clamps slide through the holes at an angle and if the top is too thick they won't fit.

True dat...normal MDF thickness shouldn't be exceeded for using the "through the hole" clamps from Festool, Bessey and others as you can't get the angle you need to get the bent end through to the bottom.

[Peter Kelly]

These work with any thickness top: http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=70930&cat=1,43838,43845&ap=1
Actually like them better than the Festool clamps for workholding, bit more expensive tho.


If the MFT is going to be your main work bench, you may want to invest in the leg braces https://www.festoolusa.com/accessory/495502---mft-3-qt
Gets a bit wiggly with some operations like planing, sanding, chiseling. Great lightweight system otherwise.

[Nick Decker]

Speaking of Veritas clamps, one of my favorites:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=74622&cat=1,41637

[Bohdan Drozdowskyj]

So guy and gals if you have a Festool multi-function table do you use the clamps to hold work down and if so what are your thoughts/opinions??


I find that the Festool screw clamps (https://www.festoolusa.com/accessory/489570---fsz-120) do not hold reliably as they tend to let go under pressure. The toggle version (https://www.festoolusa.com/accessory/491594---fs-hz-160) is really good but the clamps that I use the most are the clamping elements (https://www.festoolusa.com/accessory/488030---mft-sp).

[mark mcfarlane]

...The toggle version (https://www.festoolusa.com/accessory/491594---fs-hz-160) is really good but the clamps that I use the most are the clamping elements (https://www.festoolusa.com/accessory/488030---mft-sp).

+100. Love the toggle version and especially the clamping elements. I just the MFT yesterday to square up some drawers, using QWAS dogs to get perfect 90s and the clamping elements to hold it whilst the glue dried.

[Mike DeHart]

I drilled a piece of plywood using the parf guide which did a great job keeping everything square. I've cut a cross of dovetails in the table top to use the microjig dovetail clamps as stops. Parf dogs used as the dogs. I use it either on a couple 2x4's on sawhorses or clamped to a heavy workbench for work that needs better lateral stability. This setup does great for tracksaw and domino work. Dave Stanton has a youtube video of creating a more sophisticated setup that i got some ideas from.

[Dick Mahany]

+100. Love the toggle version and especially the clamping elements. I just the MFT yesterday to square up some drawers, using QWAS dogs to get perfect 90s and the clamping elements to hold it whilst the glue dried.

While I like the clamping elements very much, the one thing I find bothersome is that they tend to lift a work piece off the MFT surface at a slight angle when clamping. Possibly my technique, but I still won't trade them as they are so useful and have such a low profile.

[Sanjeev Agarwal]

I have the MFT/3 along with 2 other workbenches - a split top roubo and another traditional bench with twin screw and quick release vises. I love all of them for different reasons but the MFT is the most versatile especially for power tool use. The Festool quick clamps and the clamping elements help you get the most from the MFT although they add up the cost even more.

[Patrick Kane]

Im not here to bash the MFT, but perhaps to offer the other side of the coin. I had the latest MFT3 for a year prior to getting a KF700 in the fall. The fence and rail flip hinges leave a lot to be desired. The flip Stop needs almost constant calibration, and the tab into the rail channel is sloppy. Then, it’s not enough that you just spent $650 on a card table, but it requires a good $100+/- precision square to be calibrated. Finally, let’s not overlook the fact this is a rickety table with a top that is prone to sagging and highly susceptible to inclimate conditions. Mild moisture is enough to ruin the precision of the CNC grid by inducing slop into the holes. The lower left quadrant of mine was like that after leaving sweaty workgloves on them overnight.

I can see how it would be good for paint grade sheet work on site, but the stock setup doesn’t hold its settings to a tight tolerance. If you don’t mind being 1/16” out over 12-15”, then the MFT is great. If that isn’t good enough for you, then I include this one in the same bucket as the kapex—expensive/best carpentry tools that sacrifice the last 1/16” of accuracy in the name of portability. Honestly, if this is your only work bench then I would make your own. Get a top CNCed for you or buy a spare top from festool. The qwas or similar dogs and rail dogs are much more consistent than the fence.

[Robert Zschoche]

George,

I owned four MFTs while I was doing remodeling work and they were great for jobsite use. Yes, the top gets saggy and the tables don't resist wracking enough to use for hand planing. But I found the accuracy to be excellent as long as it was set up properly. I don't know if I would buy them now, however, based on the cost compared to what the used to be. If you're interested in making your own, take a look at Timothy Wilmots' videos on Youtube.

[Todd Zucker]

I have an MFT mounted on a rolling cart. This was one of my first woodworking purchases. It took me me a few months to get comfortable squaring it up, and then I bought the "slop stop" for $15 and that made all the difference. Perhaps because I don't move it out of the garage or break it down, I have not had to square up the flip up track in at least 6 months. I don't have a table saw and love the MFT and track saw combination. Would not be without it.

I have the same experience as Dick with the clamping elements, which lift off the table if you clamp with full pressure. But i still use them a fair amount. I use the Festool screw clamps and quick clamps literally all the time (and they also work on the grooves of the drill press table).

i don't know if the triangular extruded shape of your Micro Jig dovetail clamps would be compatible with the grooves on the aluminum sides of the MFT. I have seen some people use those grooves to clamp things to the side of the MFT, but i have never really found a need to do that. My guess is that if you do get the MFT, you will get some more Festool clamps, and you could still use the Micro Jig clamps to hold things on the surface of the MFT.

[Michelle Rich]

I have 2, and I love them because they are the most versitile clamping/sawing units I have used. Plus one can break them down and get them out of the way. As an old woman that low weight makes it a winner for me.

[Dick Mahany]

.......... Then, it’s not enough that you just spent $650 on a card table, but it requires a good $100+/- precision square to be calibrated.

I used 2 pair of dogs and a piece of 3/4" MDF, and made a DIY square approx 18" on a side. It is as square as I can measure and cost about $5 for the material. If I damage it, I can make another one in a matter of minutes. I always get a kick out seeing how much folks spend on those pretty and expensive squares from the various manufacturers. The squareness is easy to verify by using the "5-cut" method and a good caliper. Just trying to show another option for squaring.

[Rob L. Jones]

Watch the video in this thread over on the FOG forum:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/mft-3-ideas-for-small-shop/msg538715/?topicseen#msg538715


Im not here to bash the MFT, but perhaps to offer the other side of the coin. I had the latest MFT3 for a year prior to getting a KF700 in the fall. The fence and rail flip hinges leave a lot to be desired. The flip Stop needs almost constant calibration, and the tab into the rail channel is sloppy. Then, it’s not enough that you just spent $650 on a card table, but it requires a good $100+/- precision square to be calibrated. Finally, let’s not overlook the fact this is a rickety table with a top that is prone to sagging and highly susceptible to inclimate conditions. Mild moisture is enough to ruin the precision of the CNC grid by inducing slop into the holes. The lower left quadrant of mine was like that after leaving sweaty workgloves on them overnight.

I can see how it would be good for paint grade sheet work on site, but the stock setup doesn’t hold its settings to a tight tolerance. If you don’t mind being 1/16” out over 12-15”, then the MFT is great. If that isn’t good enough for you, then I include this one in the same bucket as the kapex—expensive/best carpentry tools that sacrifice the last 1/16” of accuracy in the name of portability. Honestly, if this is your only work bench then I would make your own. Get a top CNCed for you or buy a spare top from festool. The qwas or similar dogs and rail dogs are much more consistent than the fence.

[Peter Kelly]

Important discovery - mezcal bottle tops make very good 20mm dogs for the MFT.

https://i.imgur.com/3msq6TB.jpg

[Jim Becker]

Important discovery - mezcal bottle tops make very good 20mm dogs for the MFT.

https://i.imgur.com/3msq6TB.jpg

Wow...now there's an excellent recycling example! :) :D

(How consistent is the diameter of the part that will be proud of the surface?)

[Ted Derryberry]

I don't have an MFT so I can't comment on it. However, my CNC table has 3/4" dog holes 4" on center so I thought I'd give my $0.02 on clamps. If you do have a thicker top and want to use the screw type clamps the MicroJig dovetail clamps have a small bolt that keeps the moving part from sliding off the end of the bar. Remove that bolt and the bar can be poked up through a hole in any thickness top and the moving part slid back on to it. (I don't use these on the CNC, but thought it was worth mentioning.) On the CNC I used Lee Valley "wonder pups" for years and they are great. Rock solid, but a little slow to screw in and out, even when out of the table. I never got around to buying a quick release wonder dog as mentioned above. I couldn't get past the cost. Recently Kreg came out with an "in-line clamp" designed for dog holes. I ordered a pair or them to try on the CNC and the day they showed up I ordered four more. For a plastic clamp they are amazing. They have a greater range than the wonder pup, over 4", and they are much faster. They have noticeably sped up my production and I'm more likely to do something on the CNC now because the clamping is so quick vs. messing around with the wonder pups. With the CNC another advantage is if I hit them with the bit I've only ruined a $20 clamp and not the bit. I hit a wonder pup one time and there went a $40 clamp and a $40 bit in one fell swoop. I'm not sure if they work on 20mm holes, but Kreg could probably answer that. If they hold on a CNC with all the vibration and lateral forces then they should be more than adequate for sanding and the like on an MFT type workbench.

If I felt the need for a work top with dog holes I'd build something similar to Timothy Wilmot's design.

[Peter Kelly]

I'll have to check the tops once I'm back at the shop. Have some whiskey ones as well that look very similar...