Where do I go to get bearings replaced?

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi guys.
My 20 yr old JET 12" bandsaw was throwing the lower tire. When I opened it up, the lower wheel was hard to turn. Took it apart and looks like I have a couple siezed bearings in the axle on which the wheel is mounted. I can see the discoloration that indicates one of the bearings overtemped. I can see a bit of sawdust too. Ain't hard to figure out what happened. :D

These are common bearings (6203LU) and I can get them in a sealed version for $5 each. My problem is that I don't feel comfortable punching out the old ones and I dont have a press to put the new ones in.

What kind of business do I go to in order to have them replace these bearings for me?

Thanks for giving me a hand.
Fred

[johnny means]

any machine shop. But with that saw, their rates might scare you a bit. With a bandsaw, i wouldnt think twice about going at it myself. They're not precision machines in grand scheme of things.

[Bob Vavricka]

I would go to a local machine shop if you have one in the area.

[Nick Decker]

Fred, I wonder if they're even the type bearing that needs to be pressed inrto place, or if maybe the overheating seized them up? Can you tap on them with something to see if they'll move? Just guessing here, I'm no machinist.

[Mark Bolton]

I would just lay them on your bench with some blocks or in a vise and find a couple sockets that match the bore on the wheel and squeeze them out yourself. Peck the replacements in with a soft mallet and finish them off the same way.

[Bob Bouis]

If it's anything like the bearings on a regular 14 inch Delta type bandsaw, you don't need a press. Just remember where the bearings are if they don't have shoulders, and tap them onto the shafts with a hammer and a socket or a three-quarter inch pipe.

[Tom Bender]

Easy to replace yourself but any shop that rebuilds auto engines or any one that works on trucks can do it easily. A bug truck shop may not bother to charge you if it only takes a few minutes.

[Bill Dufour]

I like to use the old races as pushers to force the new bearings into place. First pull the old bearings then I use the old outer race by first grinding a little off the outer diameter. Like maybe .005" or a little more. The I take the bearing apart. If you need to you can anneal the inner race and enlarge the inner bore a fraction with a drill.
As mentioned above a socket makes a good press and holder. A hard wood plug can be turned to fit as well. They will work a few times before the end will need to be faced off.
before had a lathe I used pvc pipe and couplings. These can be split lengthwise and hose clamped to reduce the diameter.
Just make sure when removing that the hub is well supported as close to the outer bore as possible. Same for the install. On install, if this is a normal use, push only on the outer race. never transmit any installation force through the balls from one race to the other or you risk denting the races and balls.
It is often easiest to pound on the inner race to remove the old bearing. This is fine.
Bil lD

PS use sealed bearings not shielded unless rpm is over about 10,000

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks guys. I appreciate it.

After all your encouragement, I watched a couple utube vids and thought I'd give it a try. Well, I tried anyway. But I couldn't pull the bearings to save my life. I thought if I could get the shaft all the way out, I could tap each bearing from the other side to free it. But that shaft won't move more than 1/4" in either direction and the bearings don't move at all when the shaft does. I'm frustrated at this point.

Here are the pics. This part bolts into the saw. I've tried tapping out the bearings with it in and with it out.

379277
379278
379279

[Michael Wildt]

Probably has to be pulled out not pressed out through the axle opening. If you have the model number of the machine check the manual online or paper if you have it. In particular the exploded drawings. They'll show how the axle looks.

If if they need to be pulled you'll need a puller. Search for blind hole bearing puller. Lots of videos on that too. Ca get the cheap as $40 or so.

The axle is taken out then basically a pair of hooks then goes through the hole and grabs the inner race from behind. Then you attach a rod with a slide hammer and you then pull them out.

Here is an example. https://youtu.be/eNCKmPPdNqQ

[Michael Wildt]

Forgot to mention that to make the press in easier put the new bearing in the freezer for a while first. Then press it in. That will shrink it and make it easier.

[Roy Petersen]

Looks like the manual here: http://www.mikestools.com/download/Jet-Owners-manuals/Jet%20Bandsaws/Jet_JWBS-12OS%20-708901B%20-%20Rev%20C%20-%206-07.pdf

It has a bearing collar at both ends, and the shaft comes out from the end opposite the bolt that holds it in based on your picture. Nothing but that bolt appears to be holding it in.

[Frederick Skelly]

Mike, Roy, thank you.
So I tap the shaft through both bearings, in the direction opposite to that bolt? I just keep tapping until it comes all the way out? Then use a blind puller to get the bearings out? It's that straightforward?

[Bruce Wrenn]

The bearings may be a "PRESS FIT" onto the axle, which means axle would need to be pressed out of assembly, freeing bearings, at least one of them. Other would most likely come out with axle, and then be removed using a bearing / gear puller. 6203-2RS bearings are only $1.99 at Fastenal. They are the most common size ball bearing in the world

[Roy Petersen]

I can't swear to it, but it sure looks that simple. That exploded diagram looks like your pic, and there's nothing like retainer rings shown.

[Bill Dufour]

I have pulled many bearings by using a good size nail and pound it headfirst down the inner bore to push the inner bore of the bearing below the one I can see. Just make sure the outer bore is well supported. I sometimes have to grind the head so it is like a railroad spike and only sticks out on one side depending on head size and innerbore.
Bill D

PS: Be aware that the ball bearing will be metric if the machine was made after around 1930 or so. Even so it is very rare to find a inch ball bearing ever! If the machine is that old it will most likely be bronze or still a metric bearing unless it is farm equipment.

[Bob Bouis]

You don't need a blind bearing puller, just a socket extension (or a dowel or something). Knock the shaft out then put it in through one bearing cockeyed so it contacts the bearing on the other side. Then grab the whole thing in your hand and bang the other end of the dowel on something hard. Out comes bearing #1. Then reverse it and knock out #2.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks guys!
Bob, I was wondering if I could do that - thanks!

[Bob Vaughan]

Electric motor shop. Small engine repair shop.

Asian metal is rather soft so if the bearings went south, chances are so did the shaft. There's probably a raised burr inside on the shaft so pressing the bearings out will be necessary.
For pressing the bearings on, the socket is a good idea. Properly fitting PVC can work also. If you want to be sure to get the pressure on the inner race, get out the Dremel with a sanding drum and grind the bore of the inner race of the old bearings until it slides on the shaft. Use that as a drive bushing. Simply using the old bearing can often result in the old bearing being driven on to the shaft.

[Ronald Blue]

Electric motor shop. Small engine repair shop.

Asian metal is rather soft so if the bearings went south, chances are so did the shaft. There's probably a raised burr inside on the shaft so pressing the bearings out will be necessary.
For pressing the bearings on, the socket is a good idea. Properly fitting PVC can work also. If you want to be sure to get the pressure on the inner race, get out the Dremel with a sanding drum and grind the bore of the inner race of the old bearings until it slides on the shaft. Use that as a drive bushing. Simply using the old bearing can often result in the old bearing being driven on to the shaft.


That is a pretty wide based assumption. First there is nothing in the photos that indicates there is any damage to the shaft or the housing. Second all or nearly all major bearing suppliers have plants in China. It doesn't cost more to heat treat correctly because it is a product of heat, furnace atmosphere, and proper quenching. While it is case hardening on small bearings the case almost reaches completely through. I know this from almost 20 years involved in the manufacture of cylindrical and tapered roller bearings. The finishing process is where corners are generally cut. Loose tolerances are usually the biggest fault.
As for removal I would support the housing properly and take a block of oak and try driving the shaft out. The drawing doesn't indicate any shoulder on the shaft so it should go either way. An arbor press would be ideal but not a necessity. The main thing is don't cause damage to the shaft or the housing getting it apart. Someone mentioned a lawn mower repair shop and a decent one probably could help out. This is quite similar to the "cartridge" some companies use for the blade spindles. I'm sure they would have a press for this operation. Good luck!

[Jeff Ramsey]

Fred, I recently refurbished a 1976 Delta 37-315 8" jointer, and had the motor rebuilt and cutter head bearings replaced. The motor rebuild shop did all of it, and reasonably. Where are you located?

Jeff

[Jeff Heath]

That is a pretty wide based assumption. Good luck!

Ronald,

I wouldn't expect you to know it, but Bob has been rebuilding machinery professionally for over 40 years, give or take. He has more experience working on these asian made machines for school districts than most humans walking the planet. Everything he is stating is what is considered to be quite typically found on these pacific rim machines. It's not an assumption when you've repaired the same machine 500 times and they all have the same inherent weaknesses.

What you say about bearing plants in China is very true, but there are still plenty of high quality made bearings available NOT made in China. I rebuild a lot of vintage machinery, and I do not use chinese made anything in my endeavors. Plenty of quality "stuff" out there available if you know where to get supplied, and know where to find quality.

Just thought you should know, as it's unlikely Bob will come back touting his resume for you. If he speaks about experience on a machine, it's advisable for anyone who wants to learn something to listen.

Just a thought.....carry on.

Frederick (OP)

Your location is not mentioned in your profile. If you're anywhere near northern Illinois, and would like some help solving your problem, send me a PM. I rebuild machinery in my shop all the time, and have all the necessary equipment to do it properly and easily. Your job won't take but a few minutes to do if nothing's messed up. If it is, we can throw your shaft on my lathe and see if we can't fix you up. It's an offer, no strings attached. Just trying to help.

[David Kumm]

I've rebuilt a lot of machines but consider myself a total rookie compared to Jeff and Bob. I will add that you can heat the new bearing with a candleabra bulb ( because the inner diameter is so small ) so I seldom need a press to put one on. That is a small bearing that doesn't turn very fast so it is a good candidate to learn on. Dealing with bearings is a good thing to learn. Dave

[Tim Boger]

Here's my 1.5 cents worth .... have you applied something like PB Blaster in case corrosion is hampering your efforts.
Tim

[michael langman]

It pays to buy Japanese or U.S. made bearings over Chinese bearings.
The quality of the grease in a better made bearing adds years to it's service.

[Andrew Joiner]

Ronald,

I wouldn't expect you to know it, but Bob has been rebuilding machinery professionally for over 40 years, give or take. He has more experience working on these asian made machines for school districts than most humans walking the planet. Everything he is stating is what is considered to be quite typically found on these pacific rim machines. It's not an assumption when you've repaired the same machine 500 times and they all have the same inherent weaknesses.

What you say about bearing plants in China is very true, but there are still plenty of high quality made bearings available NOT made in China. I rebuild a lot of vintage machinery, and I do not use chinese made anything in my endeavors. Plenty of quality "stuff" out there available if you know where to get supplied, and know where to find quality.

Just thought you should know, as it's unlikely Bob will come back touting his resume for you. If he speaks about experience on a machine, it's advisable for anyone who wants to learn something to listen.

Just a thought.....carry on.

Frederick (OP)

Your location is not mentioned in your profile. If you're anywhere near northern Illinois, and would like some help solving your problem, send me a PM. I rebuild machinery in my shop all the time, and have all the necessary equipment to do it properly and easily. Your job won't take but a few minutes to do if nothing's messed up. If it is, we can throw your shaft on my lathe and see if we can't fix you up. It's an offer, no strings attached. Just trying to help.

I thought the name was familiar. I wonder if it's the same Robert Vaughan that wrote many great articles in Fine Woodworking on bandsaw tuning/repair?

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks everyone! Dave, I came to the same conclusion - this is a skill I should start learning. So with all of your continued encouragement, I just tried it again and SUCCEEDED. I got both bearings out of the housing and marked their respective positions on the shaft for the reinstall. One bearing is still mounted on the shaft, so I'll have to carefully tap that off. The local auto parts store has these sealed bearings, so I'll hopefully get her back together yet today.

Tim - yes, there was some rust making it harder!

I'll keep you posted - I'm sure I'll need more advice. (Will try the light bulb trick too - thank you.)

Fred

[Bob Bouis]

I hate to be contrarian [well, not really...], but it's a 12" bandsaw probably used in a home shop. The original bearings lasted 20 years. And they aren't hard to change once you get the hang of it. Probably a 20-minute job. The most likely cause of failure here is going to be improper installation. Next is going to be dust contamination somewhere down the line. High end bearings won't help much in either case.

[Mark Bolton]

I just tried it again and SUCCEEDED.
Fred

Congratulations man. There is no better feeling than figuring it out. Well done.

[Bill Dufour]

I'll keep you posted - I'm sure I'll need more advice. (Will try the light bulb trick too - thank you.)

Fred[/QUOTE]

heating a bearing is a interesting option but probably not needed on any woodworking machine. heating will expand the inner bore and the outer diameter at the same time. But heating a bore will expand it as well. Overheating a bearing will fry the grease out.
Bill D

[Frederick Skelly]

Guys,
I got the new bearings - they are National # 203S. [Edit: The box says 203SS but the bearing says 203S.] The originals just said Taiwan and 6203LU. The caliper shows same ID and OD. They are sealed. Any reason to think these are not the same part?

Is there a proper order to reassemble this? I'm thinking install one bearing into the housing, then tap the shaft into that bearing. (The end with the screw in the pictures.) l I like that because the end of the shaft needs to be flush with that bearing - and it's only a short distance to go. These two steps leave the first bearing seated in the housing and the shaft installed in the inner race of that bearing.

Then, I will tap the other bearing onto the far end of that shaft about 1". Then gently tap it the rest of the way until the 2nd bearing seats in the housing. (I thought about installing both bearings in the housing first, then tapping the shaft thru both. But my gut says that isn't the way to go. I don't know why.)

Thanks very much.
Fred

[lowell holmes]

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/jet-hbs1018w-414473-horizontal-band-saw-parts-c-32652_32684_154794.html

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/jet-j8201-414500-inch-vertical-band-saw-parts-c-32652_32684_154833.html
They have it all.

[Jeff Heath]

I thought the name was familiar. I wonder if it's the same Robert Vaughan that wrote many great articles in Fine Woodworking on bandsaw tuning/repair?

That's the guy, and none finer walking this earth.

Frederick,

Glad you got it worked out. When pressing new bearings on a shaft, you want to apply pressure on the inside race only. When pressing bearings inside a bore, like a bandsaw wheel hub, that thought is reversed, and applying pressure only on the outer race.

Pressing on the inner race of a bearing into a bore, like the inside hub of a bandsaw wheel, or any other application, can result in premature failure of the bearing. I just thought it was worth taking the time to mention it in this thread, even if it seems obvious.

Cheers.

[Bill Space]

That's the guy, and none finer walking this earth.

Frederick,

Glad you got it worked out. When pressing new bearings on a shaft, you want to apply pressure on the inside race only...

Cheers.

Jeff, I think you meant the outside race...

edit: Whoops...I thought the bearings were going into the housing first...so my apologies if I misunderstood...But if the bearing went on the shaft first...confused now...:)

[Jeff Heath]

All good. :D I believe we are on the same page.

[Frederick Skelly]

I got the bearings in and the shaft inserted. I was pleased. After I cleaned the corrosion inside the housing, those bearings tapped in easily with no press required! THEN, I saw the two spacers still sitting on the saw. Imagine my expletives.

So I carefully took it apart, installed the two spacers on the shaft and then put it back together. As I was about to install the housing containing the shaft and bearings on the saw, I saw that I put a small dent in the metal seal on each of the bearings. (Sigh - not gentle enough Mr. Skelly. That seal is probably leaky now.) But I turned the shaft carefully and feel no binding - it turns very smoothly. So I put her back together and she runs beautifully. I'm still throwing that lower tire, but I'll order new tires tomorrow to fix that. I needed the bearings regardless.

With all these "installation adventures" I don't expect to get the normal lifetime on these bearings. As someone noted above, installation issues and sawdust penetration are common failure modes, and I'll probably some of both. But you know what? I'm really glad I did this. I needed to learn how. And when they fail again, I know how to fix them and what dopey stuff not to do.

Today was a fun day. :) Thanks to all of you for teaching me!

Best wishes,
Fred

[Jeff Heath]

Good job, Fred. Don't sweat the small stuff. If they go bad in 10 years, you can do them again then.

Now it's time to tackle something really fun, like rebuilding a 30" planer!

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks Jeff! :)

[Bruce Wrenn]

It pays to buy Japanese or U.S. made bearings over Chinese bearings.
The quality of the grease in a better made bearing adds years to it's service.Is this an opinion, or do you have any proof? The reason I ask is on my daughter's car, a $17.00 NAPA (not made in China) bearing failed in less than 10K miles. The $1.99 Chinese special from Fastenal now has over 300K miles on it. The Big Bearing Store used to have "How Ball Bearings are Made" on their web site. Interesting reading.

[Jeff Ramsey]

WTG Fred. You're now an official bearing replacer. You may get long life from those bearings even with the "dimple". It should run like a champ with new tires.

Jeff