Router lift?

[Dave Cav]

For as long as I have been using a router table it's been a home made rig, either a plywood box with a router inside it, or a plywood deck hung between the table fence saw rails. Right now I have an old single speed PC 75362 hung under a plywood extension wing off the right side of the PM 65. It's screwed into the stock base, which works but is kind of a pain to adjust and makes it necessary to remove the motor every time I need to change a bit. I've been thinking about upgrading to some sort of a router lift, but a quick web search tells me they are pretty spendy. I don't use the router table all day, every day, but it gets a fair amount of use, and if it were more convenient to operate, maybe I'd use it more.

So the question is, if you've upgraded to some sort of lift, what kind, and do you feel it was worth it?

[Derek Cohen]

Dave, I am predominantly a hand tool orientated woodworker, using machines to do the donkey work. My needs for a router table are less than others, but it is a useful tool and so I have always had one. I just did not see one taking up much of the budget.

This one is definitely lo-fi compared to many I have seen http://festoolownersgroup.com/Smileys/default/smiley.gif

The router table is built into the extension of my Hammer K3 slider. The router is a 20 year old Elu 177e (variable speed, soft start, 2 1/4 h.p) ...

https://s19.postimg.org/gqxovvj0z/Router_Raizer_1.jpg

Bits are changed above table curtesy of a MuscleChuck. Easy Peasy - they all need a little balancing, which is straightforward (just rotating until any vibration is minimised).

The chuck is raised and lowered with a Router Raizer. This is the cheapest way that you will get a proper lift. It works very well ...

https://s19.postimg.org/6gv9wn0v7/Router_Raizer_-_Muscle_Chuck.jpg


One could pay a lot more for added sophistication. This does all I need from it.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Dave Richards]

I made a lift for my plunge router years ago. It was simple, cost less than $10, and took about 15 minutes to make. I could send you details if you are interested.

[Robert Engel]

I've also used the router raiser Derek mentioned. Worked "pretty well" for many years. Just don't forget to lock the router!!

When that router died, I went with the Triton (built in raiser) which I am very happy with.

[Jim Becker]

IMHO...yes, some form of router lift is absolutely worth the investment. Note that some routers actually have this capability built in which can simplify things and allow you to use a fixed plate, so you may want to weigh replacing that old, single speed router for table use with one that supports inherent, "above the table" height adjustment AND variable speed (for safety and cutting benefits) vs trying to use an expensive lift with your current router. Single speed routers are great for edging and things like dovetail jig use, but not the best choice for a router table since you cannot safely swing larger cutters with them.

To your specific question about what's in the shop, I have the BenchDog lift (in a BenchDog cast iron table), but there are a number of great choices for lifts available.

[Floyd Mah]

I have been a lower budget woodworker for a long time and used various routers that had adjustments that allowed them to be adjusted from above or below the table. This works when most of your work consists of trimming edges or dados. After struggling for literally over an hour to adjust such a setup to use a bit that required an exact setting, I bought a Jessem lift and it's been the most enjoyable experience since then. If you are trying to make changes that are small fractions of an inch, loosening and reclamping a router body in an inverted base was an extremely frustrating experience because I could vary the height of the cut just by tilting the body of the router in the base. Compare this to a lift that doesn't change the clamping of the body, but just the height using linear bearings. So if you use molding bits (window rail and stile bits), lock miter joint bits or finger joint bits, buy the lift.

[Keith Hankins]

Me, it was the first big project after I got back into wood working back in 98 after being out of it for about 10 years. The router table is one of the most used tools I have. I invested in the woodpecker prl and its still in use today. It's a precision lift as the name says. Many a time i have dialed a cut into by the thou to make it perfect. Mated with one of their fences, its a pair that will last a long long time.

https://flic.kr/s/aHsjY6e4rF

[Ted Derryberry]

I've had a Woodpecker lift for about 8 years now and am happy with it. I can't imagine trying to do any type of precision work without a proper lift. I actually have the complete package of a standalone table, lift, fence, etc. With the router motor and all the accessories I probably have over $1,500.00 in it. Sounds like that's more than you want to spend. You could buy just the lift and upgrade the motor and fence and add accessories over time.

[Mike Holbrook]

I am more of a hand tool guy too, like Derek above. I have been trying to match rotted shutters on a house that will be on the market soon. I tried to do the job with hand tools but hit snags matching the remaining shutters. Like the OP and Derek, I decided I wanted a router table with easy to adjust router. I did not want to spend any more money than necessary as I am not sure how much I will use it after this project.

I bought a Bosch 1617, 2.25 hp router, with a base that fits in the Bosch RA1181 table top router table. Then two items cost $340+. I bought these two items for specific reasons. The router can be adjusted from the router base, mounted in a table, using a tool that comes with the router.

The table for the RA1181 is 27 x 18”, large for this type table. The entire table top is one metal piece (other than the metal insert). I have had bad luck with coated MDF table surfaces: breaking,warping..... The metal table has lots of notches in all four sides of the 1 3/8 thick table. Those notches can be used to attach the base that comes in the package or used to hang the whole table in a cabinet built by the owner.

There are two other parts that come with the RA1181 that I think make it very adaptable. There is a, lockable, on/off switch panel, which has screw holes in it for mounting in the base that comes with it. There are also double receptacles mounted in a similar panel to the on/off switch. Either of these components can be mounted in a user designed cabinet too.

The fence that comes with the RA1181 has everything I can ever imagine needing, T slots, attachments for adjustable sacrificial fences on both sides, shims for using the fence as a basic jointer.....

I have a multi-purpose cabinet that I have my router & table mounted on. Currently the table is mounted on a piece of Festool MFT insert that arrived damaged. It is easy to clamp the base to any Festool table using Festool clamps. Ultimately the woodworking cabinet I am using will have interchangable tops. One top will house the Bosch table top, the on/off switch panel, the double receptacle and the Bosch router fence.

378915

378916

[Nick Lazz]

I have built 2 cabinet router tables. They both originally had plunge routers with Woodpecker lifts. Ultimately, this was not a good set up. I sold one of the router tables and bought a PC motor 3-1/4 hp and Jessem Master Lift. This set up has been fantastic. I could send pics if needed.

I found that by changing routers and getting a solid lift made all the difference. Very easy and fast to set up, which makes me use it more. You could spend less, and try to make something work but in my experience the frustration and problems associated with a plunge router lift etc. deterred me from using it at all.

[Brett Luna]

...bought a PC motor 3-1/4 hp and Jessem Master Lift. This set up has been fantastic. I could send pics if needed.

Same here. I upgraded my table with the same motor and lift and I don't regret it for a minute. If spendiness is an issue, though, the OP might consider the JessEm Rout-R-Lift II. It's just a little over half the cost of the Mast-R-Lift but it does limit one to using a router motor no larger than 3½" in diameter.

[Ted Derryberry]

Why would you use a lift with a plunge router? Woodpeckers doesn't even make a lift for a plunge router.

[Dave Richards]

Why would you use a lift with a plunge router? Woodpeckers doesn't even make a lift for a plunge router.

They used to. I have one with a DeWalt DW621 mounted in it. They still show pictures of it on their website.

[Jamie Buxton]

My router table rig has evolved through three generations over the last thirty years. I've always had it hanging off the tablesaw. The first one was a plunge router screwed to a piece of plywood. The plywood bounced and sagged. The next generation was a torsion box, with the router screwed to a commercial router plate. The router plate was humped, and the torsion box eventually sagged (yellow glue cold creep?). When that router smoked, I took it as a sign to upgrade. I now have a Speedmatic in a Woodpecker lift in a cast iron wing from Peachtree. It works darn well, but I have to admit it wasn't cheap.

Perhaps the biggest improvement I made in this third-generation rig is that I enclosed the router, and hooked my cyclone to it. Now there's no dust thrown up into my face, and the router stays cool.

If I were the OP, who has a Speedmatic already, I'd probably buy a lift, but build the table from wood. And I'd add big-time dust sucking to it. So the out-of-pocket expense would only be the lift itself.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I have a PC 3 1/4hp router using a Woodpecker PRL-V2 lift in a Norm Abrams' Version 2 self-built router table . It works great. Quick above table bit changes and quick minute adjustments to get proper cuts.

[Nick Decker]

I have the Incra (Jessem) Master Lift II with a PC 7518 in a Woodpecker table/fence. Recently added the Incra under-table dust sucker and couldn't be happier. Someone else mentioned that you didn't really appreciate a good router lift until you've used one, and I agree. The ease of use and precision adjustment is amazing.

[Peter Kuhlman]

I had the original Woodpecker PRL chain drive model but had problems with it binding up. Sent it in for repair but it started binding again so sold it. Tried the PRL V-2 with thumb wheel but it now won’t raise or lower the router at all. I own lots of Incra and Woodpecker stuff but would look at other offerings for a router lift after my experience. Maybe the Jessem?

[Roger Chandler]

Another vote for the PC 7518 3.25 hp router motor in a Jessem MasterLift. Super accurate and when I made raised panel cabinet doors, it made being able to repeat the exact settings easy when being many days apart on making the doors for different cabinets in the set. Matched doors made at different times is not an easy thing to do when different setups have to be done in a very small shop.

[Bill Carey]

I have the JessEm Router Lift II and it does all I want it to. Serious hobby - not production. Together with a Porter Cable router I have been very happy with it. And like Brett said, 1/2 the price.

[Dave Cav]

Thanks for all the information. Lots to consider, but JessEm keeps coming up so I think I'll take a look at the Router Lift II.

[Craig Day]

Thanks for all the information. Lots to consider, but JessEm keeps coming up so I think I'll take a look at the Router Lift II.

Definitely look into this. I upgraded my router table some years ago with a bench dog cast iron table top and a JessEm Mast-R-Lift II. It has been an amazing setup that I would repeat in a heartbeat. I use an iGaging digital height gauge and I can very easily adjust my bit down to the thousandths of an inch. I went from avoiding my router table and finding other ways to do what I wanted to using my router table 10x as much... it really is a joy to use that you have to experience. You won't be sorry if you upgrade!

I went with a cast iron table to avoid any table sag over time and to use magnetic featherboards... so not a required upgrade, but I enjoy the speed of magnetic featherboards!

[Alan Lightstone]

I've owned both the Woodpeckers PRL-V2 and the Jessem Mast-R-Lift II. I much prefer the Jessem, though I do wish it had a larger variety of inserts like the Incra and Woodpeckers do, but that's a minor point. I also very much like the beefiness of the 3.5HP PC7518 Router. A very good combo, iMHO.

[David Powell]

Similar to Ken, I have the Woodpeckers PRL-V2 with a PC-7518 mounted in the first version of Norm's router table.

[Brian Holcombe]

I'll throw in another for the Jessem lift, it's pretty nice. I've had mine for probably 10 years now and use it daily.

Just checked, I have the Mast-R-lift II.

[Dave Cav]

After spending most of the afternoon changing bits in the router table yesterday, I went ahead and ordered the JessEm Mast-R-Lift II yesterday. I guess I should get started now on planning to rebuild the router table from the bottom up.

[Brett Luna]

After spending most of the afternoon changing bits in the router table yesterday, I went ahead and ordered the JessEm Mast-R-Lift II yesterday. I guess I should get started now on planning to rebuild the router table from the bottom up.

I don't recall you saying how you intend to mount the lift but for what it's worth: JessEm offers a set of corner leveling pads (https://www.jessemdirect.com/product_p/02027.htm) for DIY and retrofitted tables. I used them on my Kreg table.

[Dave Zellers]

After spending most of the afternoon changing bits in the router table yesterday, I went ahead and ordered the JessEm Mast-R-Lift II yesterday. I guess I should get started now on planning to rebuild the router table from the bottom up.

A Valentines gift to yourself? :p

Prepare to fall in love. I have one and want another.

[Nick Decker]

A Valentines gift to yourself? :p


Sure beats a box of chocolates!

[Dave Cav]

A Valentines gift to yourself? :p

Prepare to fall in love. I have one and want another.

Well, I do have TWO big 3.5 HP Porter Cable Speedmatic routers.

[Mark Blatter]

After running a PC7518 mounted to the bottom of a table for a couple of years, I bought the Incra lift and it may be the best money spent. Makes height changes a breeze and so easy to make the micro adjustments often needed. The inserts work great and make changing out the bits very simple.

[Brian Holcombe]

Anyone put a water cooled spindle in one of these lifts?

[Jim Becker]

Anyone put a water cooled spindle in one of these lifts?
I think someone posted a link to something about using a spindle not long ago with a shop-built lift, but I don't remember what thread/forum area. Using a spindle for this application, while not inexpensive, could be an interesting exercise. Probably biggest challenge would be adapting the spindle to an existing lift because most spindles have square bodies, not round like a typical router motor, except for a very short area just above the collet. 'Not sure I'd want a water cooled unit for this because of the orientation...air cooled may be a better choice because of that and most high quality spindles seem to be air cooled in my observation as I move into the CNC world.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Jim! I'll dig a bit deeper and look into air cooled.

[Bryan Lisowski]

They do make round spindles and air cooled is probably best since you won't be running for extended times. Water cooled allows you to run for longer periods of time and at higher speeds if I remember correctly.

[Dave Cav]

Or you could just get a shaper or two.

[Brian Holcombe]

I just hate listening to routers, I may end up just getting rid of it after I get a shaper but it is a handy tool to have.

[Dave Cav]

I just hate listening to routers, I may end up just getting rid of it after I get a shaper but it is a handy tool to have.

I'm with you there. I have two shapers, and I'm trying to train myself to use them instead of the router table whenever I can. I have a pretty good collection of the old steel Delta/Carob cutters, and should leave the 1/2" spindle in one of them and use them more.

But for edge work, quick rabbets and other odds and ends, a router table is still pretty handy.

[Joe Council]

I made a lift for my plunge router years ago. It was simple, cost less than $10, and took about 15 minutes to make. I could send you details if you are interested.


Dave if you have the details of your router lift I would be interested in them. I"m looking to build a router lift doe my porter cable.

thanks

Joe

[Jim Dwight]

I do not even use a router plate and never have. I have a router table capability in my extension table but I only use it if I need two. It is just a fixed base for a PC690 screwed to the underside of the melamine particle board of the extension table. The melamine is thinned some on the underside. There is a 3+ inch hole for the bit to come through. Works fine but I still wanted something better and I didn't like the way the router table limited the table saw and vice versa.

My stand alone is shaped like Norm's but it has a router lift based upon an article in an old American Woodworker that works great. The top hinges up for bit changes. The router motor is supported by the 3/4 plywood back of the router table. It slides on two 1 inch diameter machined metal rods with oilite bearings supporting the motor cradle. The clamp arrangement for the motor is wood so you can mount any router you want. I have an old Ryobi plunge router motor that draws a bit over 13A in it. You turn a piece of 3/8 all thread to raise and lower the motor so a full revolution moves the bit 1/16 inch. It has dust collection, lots of bit storage, and a drawer under the router motor for odds and ends. It moves on locking casters. I've made at least 3 other stand alones but I really like this one, I think it is the final.

If you want a lift and can afford it, get one. I can do everything I do on my stand alone on the simpler setup on the extension table of my table saw. It's just easier on the stand alone, partially because of the lift. If you want to save some money, check out the build it yourself options. The "woodworking for engineers" has one that tilts. Jay Bates (another youtuber with a website) also has an interesting arrangement. For me, a router table is something to build, not something to buy.

[Rick Potter]

Brett mentioned that the Jessem Router Lift II does not handle the larger routers. You mention having two large PC's.

Just reminding you that you need a 690/890 or some other router that fits the RL II.

[Dave Richards]

Dave if you have the details of your router lift I would be interested in them. I"m looking to build a router lift doe my porter cable.

thanks

Joe

To avoid taking this thread off course, I sent you a PM with some information.

[Dave Cav]

Well, I see this thread is back and I haven't updated it lately. I finally got the Jessem Mast-R-Lift II and it really has been a game changer. I rebuilt the router table with a new sheet of laminate on top and a miter slot, and built a new fence to accommodate a dust collection hose, and everything works great. I used to dread using the router table because changing bits was such a PITA and adjusting the final height was very finicky. The router lift changed all of that, and I use it all the time now. Cutter changes take about a minute, and I can make incremental height adjustments of a few thousands of an inch if necessary. No, it wasn't cheap, but it's been one of the best improvements I've made in the shop in some time. It isn't a replacement for the shaper, but it's a lot more useful to me now.

[Nick Decker]

Dave, I had the same kind of revelation when I got mine. People mention that this or that router lets you make above-table adjustments, etc., but it's just not as precise. I really think a good lift is something you have to use to fully appreciate.

[Bob Potter]

I just replaced a Triton 3 1/4 hp router with the built in lift. It had the plastic gear that broke and I haven't called about getting a new gear which I thing is metal now.
So I got a new Bosch 2 1/4 hp router and a JessEm Rout R Lift 11. The router was $169 at Lowe's and the router lift was $179 at Amazon. So two for the price of the a big lift. Been very happy with both.
Bob