Is my router big enough?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I am getting ready to start building some new end tables for my wife. In a pull out drawer, there will be an inset/recess for storing remotes, etc. I just ordered a MLCS Katana 1 1/4" diameter bowl and tray bit. I have an older 2 1/2 hp PC plunge router. Will it have the horse power to spin this bit and cut red oak when plunging with it? Should I predrill a hole to start the process? The bit has a pattern bearing so I intend on make a pattern our of 1/4" hardboard.

[Mike Cutler]

Ken

How deep/thick is the material?
You probably won't get it one pass, but progressively plunging it should do it for you.
I've never personally had luck with pre drilling the waste. The router bit catches on the edges of the pre drilled holes and causes issues. I typically do light, multiple passes, it's easier on the hands.

[George Bokros]

I would agree with Mike multiple passes should handle it.

[scott spencer]

It should be fine, and will let you know when you're pushing it too hard.

[Jim Becker]

Multiple passes, for sure, if you use that particular bit for the whole process, but you can also rough out the majority of the stock with a regular straight and/or spiral bit so that the final cuts with the new cutter require less work.

[Bill Dufour]

any bit with a bottom bearing requires a starter hole?
Bill D

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Bill,

This bit has a top bearing.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/katana_bowltray.html

[Wayne Lomman]

Ken, pre-drilling a start hole is a good idea if it is larger than the cutter. You could do this with a straight cutter. Your router should have enough power to do this as the other guys have said. Does your router have a speed control? A cutter this big will need maybe 12-13000rpm max. Also, a cutter this size has a fair bit of kick so light cuts are in order. Cheers

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Ken, pre-drilling a start hole is a good idea if it is larger than the cutter. You could do this with a straight cutter. Your router should have enough power to do this as the other guys have said. Does your router have a speed control? A cutter this big will need maybe 12-13000rpm max. Also, a cutter this size has a fair bit of kick so light cuts are in order. Cheers

Thanks Wayne!

My router does have a speed control and I had completely forgot about slowing down to compensate for the bit size. I will use light cuts.

[Bill Dufour]

When I do dovetails I use a cheaper carbide endmill set a little high to rough out 75% of the wood. It goes quicker with two routers and saves the expensive dovetail bit after I snapped one in my early days of wwing.

[glenn bradley]

I pre-drill the bulk of the waste without issue. Making the bit do the full bulk of the work will cause unnecessary wear and heat up IMHO . Take the spur into account when setting the depth of the Forstner. I use a 1-1/4" Forstner and drill to a depth about 1/4" less than my final depth. The Forstner format allows you to overlap holes so you can really remove the bulk of the waste fairly close to the final shape if there are not a lot of tight corners.

I then attach a large piece of material in place of the router plate. This temporary plate should be large enough to span the opening with the bit at any extreme edge location. I start with an 1/16" depth of cut just ot get a feel for where everything is. I then take an 1/8" bite and finish with another 1/16" bite to get my near final depth. Sanding with a pad in a drill motor working through the grits gets you to a finish ready surface pretty quickly.

[Bill Fleming]

However, never do a new project that doesn’t require at least one new tool, bits don’t count.

[Rich Engelhardt]

However, never do a new project that doesn’t require at least one new tool, bits don’t count.I have to second that!!!!

Anyhow - - all kidding aside - - The Big Triton (https://www.toolnut.com/triton-tra001-dual-mode-precision-plunge-router-2400w.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=CjwKCAiA5OrTBRBlEiwAXXhT6AJkrVrjrH1Y4GbKHPnz osLqxxN-KHBdAZFjDxqkz14JhEVudg67QxoCxLkQAvD_BwE) is just adored by it's owners, mainly for table use but, no reason to think it's not a great plunge router. That extra HP really makes a difference.

[Curt Harms]

I'll bet that router will have enough power, just do shallow cuts and reduce the speed. People use 2.5 h.p. routers to spin 3" panel raising bits so a 1.25" bowl bit shouldn't pose that much of a challenge, just don't try to do it all in one pass. As far as speed, Wood Magazine has a speed vs. diameter chart here (https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/routing/speed).
It looks like 16 - 18 K RPM should work. Don't forget to make your template thick enough that the bit's bearing will contact the template while on top of the work piece.

[Wayne Lomman]

I'll bet that router will have enough power, just do shallow cuts and reduce the speed. People use 2.5 h.p. routers to spin 3" panel raising bits so a 1.25" bowl bit shouldn't pose that much of a challenge, just don't try to do it all in one pass. As far as speed, Wood Magazine has a speed vs. diameter chart here (https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/routing/speed).
It looks like 16 - 18 K RPM should work. Don't forget to make your template thick enough that the bit's bearing will contact the template while on top of the work piece.
Interesting. The manufacturer recommends 13000. Cheers

[Anthony Whitesell]

When I'm making trays, I try to get designs where the bottom is a different or separate piece of wood than the sides and the two pieces are glued together. I use a jig saw to cut out the center portion of the side piece prior to glueing on the bottom. Leaving a generous margin to the line. Then have at it with the bowl bit.

I find this has a few advantages.
-Project goes faster
-Less wear on the bit
-Less valuable/expensive wood turned in to a huge chips
-A piece of wood that I can use for another project or heat my home with

[Peter Kelly]

I am getting ready to start building some new end tables for my wife. In a pull out drawer, there will be an inset/recess for storing remotes, etc. I just ordered a MLCS Katana 1 1/4" diameter bowl and tray bit. I have an older 2 1/2 hp PC plunge router. Will it have the horse power to spin this bit and cut red oak when plunging with it? Should I predrill a hole to start the process? The bit has a pattern bearing so I intend on make a pattern our of 1/4" hardboard.In order to do light passes with that bit, your pattern will need to be made out of something thicker than 1/4" material, most likely 3/4". The bearing will only contact the pattern edge at the full height of the cutter on the first pass otherwise.

[Anthony Whitesell]

In order to do light passes with that bit, your pattern will need to be made out of something thicker than 1/4" material, most likely 3/4". The bearing will only contact the pattern edge at the full height of the cutter on the first pass otherwise.

For the templates I have purchased they were made of ~3/8" MDF. I saw approximately because the thickness read more like 0.335". 13mm?

[Lee Schierer]

Bill,

This bit has a top bearing.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/katana_bowltray.html

With that bit you are looking at the cutting edges don't go all the way to the middle of the bit, so plunging straight down will result in some burnt wood at the bit center. You will need to slide the bit into the wood or else start with a bored hole.