Make a planing stop

[Derek Cohen]

Make your own planing stop. This took about 30 minutes to make and install ...


https://s19.postimg.org/42mf6ivcz/image.jpg


It looks like an ordinary dog hole. 1" wide in O1 steel. Filed 8 ppi. Sharp like a saw.


https://s19.postimg.org/pca1hdjdf/image.jpg


Used with a Doe's Foot ...


https://s19.postimg.org/svvz771ir/image.jpg


https://s19.postimg.org/muyaa4uc3/image.jpg


.. or tail vise ...


https://s19.postimg.org/xujhlqsgz/image.jpg


The extra grip over a bench dog is amazing! It grips so well that it is just as stable off centre ...


https://s19.postimg.org/9qspxfukj/image.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

[ernest dubois]

These are versatile units378224
I use them alone with nothing at the free end only a side stop when I'm hogging at an angle.

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks for posting, Derek. I’ve been consiering a planing stop for some time. I have to admit, the metal makes me nervous...but I suppose it’s just a matter of being a little careful.

I also noticed you installed a dog on your leg vise with corresponding dog holes. Do you find you use that much? I’ve been considering that as well.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Phil

The doghole in the chop seemed a good idea at the time. Since then it has been used once or twice. Not an important idea.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[William Fretwell]

You have just increased the grip of the bench dog, moving the holding force to the very top of the dog. Normal angling of the dog 2 degrees in aims to do that as well but tapers the force from the top of the dog down.

My first thought is why did you need to do this? If it's just about friction on the dog, could gluing that non slip step coating on the front face of the dog have been sufficient? This would keep all the force on the front face of the dog and require minimal dog hole alteration, or none if the dog face is recessed slightly. The 'teeth' would be smaller but larger in area.

All the force is now on two small screws. I wonder if that will eventually split the dog or the screws pull out.
Would a wider U shaped piece that fits around the dog be better, putting all the force on the front face of the dog? The U shape can have a toothed metal edge that is recessed to transmit the force, or a grip material. This U piece would be obviously wider than the dog, providing improved grip. You may need to make two of different depths.

The force on a planing stop can be substantial during serious planing (such as a jack planing to size a board). Clearly dogs have their limitations. My preferred planing stop is a board clamped across the full width of the workbench. Some people have a wide piece on the end of their bench that slides up and is tightened with bolts. The stop across the full width of wood being planed provides the ideal. I find even these full width stops show serious wear and require replacement.

[James Waldron]

You have just increased the grip of the bench dog, moving the holding force to the very top of the dog. Normal angling of the dog 2 degrees in aims to do that as well but tapers the force from the top of the dog down.

My first thought is why did you need to do this? If it's just about friction on the dog, could gluing that non slip step coating on the front face of the dog have been sufficient? This would keep all the force on the front face of the dog and require minimal dog hole alteration, or none if the dog face is recessed slightly. The 'teeth' would be smaller but larger in area.

All the force is now on two small screws. I wonder if that will eventually split the dog or the screws pull out.
Would a wider U shaped piece that fits around the dog be better, putting all the force on the front face of the dog? The U shape can have a toothed metal edge that is recessed to transmit the force, or a grip material. This U piece would be obviously wider than the dog, providing improved grip. You may need to make two of different depths.

The force on a planing stop can be substantial during serious planing (such as a jack planing to size a board). Clearly dogs have their limitations. My preferred planing stop is a board clamped across the full width of the workbench. Some people have a wide piece on the end of their bench that slides up and is tightened with bolts. The stop across the full width of wood being planed provides the ideal. I find even these full width stops show serious wear and require replacement.

My thoughts are to refer you to Occam's Razor and/or the acronymn "KISS." If Derek has to replace his dog in, say, twenty/thirty years, he will probably think back to your suggestions and kick himself for not paying more attention. At that point, you will be granted one "I told you so!"

[Jim Koepke]

You have just increased the grip of the bench dog, moving the holding force to the very top of the dog. Normal angling of the dog 2 degrees in aims to do that as well but tapers the force from the top of the dog down.

My first thought is why did you need to do this? If it's just about friction on the dog, could gluing that non slip step coating on the front face of the dog have been sufficient? This would keep all the force on the front face of the dog and require minimal dog hole alteration, or none if the dog face is recessed slightly. The 'teeth' would be smaller but larger in area.

All the force is now on two small screws. I wonder if that will eventually split the dog or the screws pull out.

If the serrated piece is placed carefully, the work will still be against the face of the dog. The metal part will only penetrates a minute amount preventing any sideways movement.

My bench has round dogs. At one time my solution was to drive a small nail through the dog so just a point stuck out to secure the work.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

My planing stop are round bench dogs. I also have a Veritas wonder dog. I have dog holes on 6" centers on the bench top.
This allows me to secure pieces of wood to the bench top for planing or what ever.

[William Fretwell]

[QUOTE=Jim Koepke;2773850]If the serrated piece is placed carefully, the work will still be against the face of the dog. The metal part will only penetrates a minute amount preventing any sideways movement.

My bench has round dogs. At one time my solution was to drive a small nail through the dog so just a point stuck out to secure the work.
jtk(/QUOTE).

I see Lee Valley have those plastic muzzles for round dogs. The ribs on the front increase friction but do keep the force on the front face of the dog. It's true for many woods the metal serrations of Derek's dog will sink in and the dog will still apply force.
The KISS principle would apply even better to glued on step grip, what could be simpler?

[steven c newman]

378264
K.
378265
I.
378266
S.
378267
S.

And yes, that be a Stanley No. 6c, type 10 in use...

[Derek Cohen]

Hi William

I'll let you know if the screws fail. They are each 1" deep into the Jarrah bench dog.

I agree with you that it would be stronger if the metal wrapped around the dog in an "L". However, this was quick to make to test out. The dog is new as well. They take me 5 minutes to make. The worst that can happen is that I replace it.

There has been no signs of weakness in the short time I have used it. I just thought the steel plate was so easy to make, and so effective (!), that I should pass it on.

Regrads from Perth

Derek

[Mike Holbrook]

I like it Derek, sort of like the Benchcrafted offering that I have thought about buying. I like the smaller teeth and overall smaller dog. Your solution should cause less damage to the wood with a smaller, grippier device. I may borrow this idea. I may have an old saw plate or other piece of metal to make one from. I have the saw files. Should give me more experience filing saw teeth. You did a great job on the teeth of yours. Would you like a few saws to sharpen :-)

Maybe a brass or steel insert would hold the devise in place better.

[Derek Cohen]

Mike, the Benchcrafted dog is beautiful. It really looks the part, and I have no doubt it is worth every penny. The one I made is really so easy and cheap to make, it is worth making to test out whether you would like the BC version.

Filing the "teeth" is easy as the O1 is annealed (unhardened). I used a worn file that was over from sharpening saws.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[William Fretwell]

Jarrah seems an ideal wood for dogs, hard and dense. Best I can do here is African Mahogany which surprisingly is somewhat affordable from a wholesaler. I made 25 dogs for my bench.
My dogs back edge are rounded to reduce the chance of a plane catching and tearing out the back of the dog. Your steel top may catch a blade someday. The recessed zinc stops angle up to reduce catching and the metal is soft, (new ones are aluminium).

[Derek Cohen]

Hi William

Obviously I assume that one would not use this metal stop if there is a fear of hitting it with a plane. I would keep it low and out of harm's way.

The teeth are small and sharp enough not to do any damage to the end grain of boards being planed. I would not use it with planed edge grain. It would damage that.

Luckily, I made all my dogs the exact same size and interchangeable. This will enable me to use the metal dog anywhere along the side of the bench.

Part of this thread was intended to emphasise just how amazing the Doe's Foot is as a end vise substitute - for those of you without an end vise - plus that it is extremely stable when planing at an angle (diagonally across the board). The combination with the metal dog is amazing.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

Part of this thread was intended to emphasise just how amazing the Doe's Foot is as a end vise substitute - for those of you without an end vise - plus that it is extremely stable when planing at an angle (diagonally across the board). The combination with the metal dog is amazing.


My only experience with a Doe's Foot is with a round dog with a flat face. It is an amazing way to improve the holding of any simple stop. A quick way to process a number of pieces of the same size.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

OK, I have made a modification to the way the stop is attached to the dog.

https://s19.postimg.org/a0w5gbper/1a.jpg

The brass screws have been replaced by stainless steel M6 bolts into threaded inserts ...

https://s19.postimg.org/y4mx4m05v/3a.jpg

This is the spring-loaded bench dog. It will remain at any height it is set. Note that all my bench dogs are exactly the same, and this one can be used in place of any other ...

https://s19.postimg.org/76t02v037/4a.jpg

How the stop looks to the wood :)

https://s19.postimg.org/6ha7qi79f/2a.jpg

And once again to emphasise the relevance of the Doe's Foot ...

https://s19.postimg.org/cuzatrzar/5a.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[ernest dubois]

This is why I love these.

https://vimeo.com/137259586

https://vimeo.com/137259586

[Howard Lacheen]

Thanks for posting that.

One of my old wood planes has marks on the front that look like they were made from a device like that. I never knew what reason there were saw teeth marks on the edge before. I wonder if they used something not dissimilar to these stops when it was made.

[William Fretwell]

Much stronger attachment! Looks like the rest of the dog makes no contact as one person suggested.
If you file a camber on the back edge it may save a blade someday!