3HP table saw vs 5HP

[Merrill Herring]

I’m looking at a new table saw and my current delta is old and 2 hp, originally was thinking about a 3 hp unit because I only have a 20amp breaker for the table saw. Is there an real difference between the 3 and 5 hp saws, I probably can upgrade to a 30 amp breaker. I do saw some four quarter hardwoods on occasion.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Merrill, for 4/4 hardwood 1 HP is plenty with a good 24 tooth rip blade.

You will never need more than 3 HP in a cabinet saw unless it has a feeder and you're operating it for hours on end............regards, Rod.

[Merrill Herring]

Thanks Rod, that is what I thought but good info.

[Ted Derryberry]

I agree with Rod. I'll also add that a quality, sharp, and clean blade is just as important as horsepower on thinner stock like 4/4.

How did your old saw do with 4/4 hardwood?

[Geoff Crimmins]

I have a 3hp Unisaw and have never felt that I needed more power, even when cutting 8/4 hardwoods. I don't think you would need a 5hp saw unless you were cutting thick hardwoods for hours at a time.

[Keith Hankins]

I used a 3hp griz 1023 for over 10 years and it did all i asked. It is my opinion for 4/4 and the like and not in a production environment you would be fine with a 3hp. I found that when I was making beds and cutting a lot of pieces, at thicker pieces 6/4 and especially when you jumped to 8/4 and greater, the 5hp really comes into play.

When I was cutting the bedposts and ripping them down, even with a good blade, she struggled to keep up and i had to slow down to get it done.

I upgraded to my forever saw and got the 5hp industrial sawstop. It is a difference. I find that now its just smoother easier and faster. Even at 12 or 16 quarter, its just a dream.

Do I have to have 5hp, no. But it sure is nice if you can get the 5hp do it!

Just my two cents worth that and a buck fifty will get you a cup of coffee.

Cheers!

[Christian Setla]

The only time I could imagine a 5hp saw would have an advantage over my 3hp saw (General 350) is if I was ripping 8 quarter red oak 8 hours a day or more, using a power feeder.

If we are talking a European combination machine (Hammer or Felder and the like), the HP might have some benefit, but for a stand alone table saw in a regular shop.... nope.

[Merrill Herring]

It is a Delta 10 inch tilting arbor purchased in 1991. Honestly anything would be better and it is 2 hp, but worked for all these years.

[Robert Engel]

Other than if it took 12" blades, I don't see any practical advantage.

[Jim Becker]

Merrill, I suspect that the 3hp cabinet saw of your choice is going to fulfill your needs unless you intend to rip REALLY thick stock constantly, day-in, day-out. Big blades and thick stock are what drive folks to the bigger motors/higher power. And moving up to 5hp would require more than changing the breaker unless that circuit was wired with 10 gage as a hedge for needing 30 amp capacity at some point.

[Bob Bouis]

I sometimes use my table saw to rip stickers and cut turning blanks, and with 3hp I could feel it bogging sometimes.

So when I upgraded I went with the 5hp. It wasn't much more expensive.

[Matthew Hills]

I'm surprised you're having issues with 4/4 hardwoods. Might be worthwhile checking your blade or looking for some binding with the fence.

My 1 3/4hp table saw with Forrest Woodworker II thin-kerf 30-tooth blade. Fine with 4/4; can have issue with 8/4 hardwoods. (I do have a lower tooth-count rip blade, but it is full kerf, and I don't use it very much; doesn't seem to do better than the 30T combination blade)

When I upgrade saws, I would expect to target a 3hp model.

I would go 5hp if you have a 12" blade, think you're going to do deep, single-pass dadoes, or regularly rip boards thicker than 8/4.

But, that said, my minimax 16 came with a bigger motor than I really need for what I've been doing, but I sure had a goofy grin on my face when I was putting it through its paces... so I'd understand getting a 5hp just to have that grin.

Matt

[Roger Bull]

Other than cost of upgrade and breaker there is not much downside to having more power. I have a 5hp SawStop and there have been times I was glad to have the extra power. Go for the 5hp if the price is in the budget.

[Mike Henderson]

I have a 3HP SawStop and never had a situation where I felt the saw was underpowered.

Mike

[David Kumm]

5 hp or larger is appropriate for a 12-16" saw due to greater depth of cut and much heavier internal build than what is usually found on a 10" saw. If I felt I needed the full 5 hp I'd also want the heavier build. Dave

[scott spencer]

I've never used a 5hp, so I may not know what I'm missing, but it's hard to imagine ever wanting more than 3hp. That jump from 1.75hp to 3hp was huge. My 3hp rarely even slows enough to notice. It just hogs through everything and is much less sensitive to the blade that's in place. On the other hand, for the difference in price of a new saw, if you have the electrical supply to handle it, more power is rarely a bad thing.

[Martin Wasner]

5 hp or larger is appropriate for a 12-16" saw due to greater depth of cut and much heavier internal build than what is usually found on a 10" saw. If I felt I needed the full 5 hp I'd also want the heavier build. Dave

I wish my Northfield had a bigger motor. Pushing hard dado-ing with a 12" head, I can bog it down pretty easily.


I'm certainly in the minority here on this subject, but I feel 5hp is the minimum on a 10" table saw. If I'm really hammering and trying to get stuff done, I can slow down a 5hp cabinet saw without much effort on 4/4 at 13/16"

[Mike Cutler]

I’m looking at a new table saw and my current delta is old and 2 hp, originally was thinking about a 3 hp unit because I only have a 20amp breaker for the table saw. Is there an real difference between the 3 and 5 hp saws, I probably can upgrade to a 30 amp breaker. I do saw some four quarter hardwoods on occasion.

Short answer is yes ,there definitely is. Whether you need it or not is the question. A tuned 5HP, with a sharp blade, is pretty impressive.
A 3HP would generally be considered enough for most folks. I have a 2HP and have run plenty of 8/4" tropical hardwoods through it with no problem.

[jack duren]

3hp is fine for a hobby. I shut down the SawStop several times the other day. Went to the 7hp Powermatic, But less teeth on the Sawstop would have helped... It's more about having the correct blade to start with, then HP comes into play......My area is more for cutting sheet goods than lumber.

[mreza Salav]

I have the 3HP industrial sawstop, great saw and sufficient for 99% of the times. If I had the choice I'd happyily pay the extra $100 or so and get the 5HP.
I have nearly stalled it a few times ripping at about 3" thick material.

[Earl Rumans]

I have a 5hp Jet Xacta Deluxe saw and I am very happy with it. I got the 5hp because when I was buying the saw during a sale, the 3 hp was sold out and they offered me the 5hp for the same price. I have never regretted the decision to go with the 5hp. The 5hp Jet is actually more like a true 3 hp saw, it's rated at 18 amps. All the HP ratings these days are overblown, compared to the older generation electric motors.

[Charles Lent]

On a 10" saw in a hobby / semi pro shop you won't see a difference between 3 and 5 hp if your blades are sharp. A full width dado cut with a 10" dado blade might show a slight speed change on a 3 hp saw if you push the wood through at production speeds. Most 5 hp saws have 1" or larger arbors and run 12-16" diameter blades. 5 hp on a 10" saw is way overkill. I use a 12" saw with a 5 hp motor at work and I don't think I've ever been able to see a difference between it and my 10" 3 hp Unisaw in my home shop as far as what I can cut with it, other than thickness of cut capability.

Charley

[Joe Jensen]

I faced this decision when upgrading from a 3HP PM66 to a Sawstop ICS. The 5HP was like $100 more than the 3HP. I had only one time wished for more power on the PM66. That was when using the saw to cut bevels on raised panels at the full depth of cut. Had to slow down a bit which caused burning. I ended up spending the extra $100 and rewiring to a 30A line. Not sure if I ever needed the extra HP but I figured why not.

[jack duren]

Blades play the biggest part on these saws.

[Jim Becker]

Blades play the biggest part on these saws.
True dad. Good quality and sharp blades/cutters really do help, no matter what the machine or power available. Too many folks (myself included) put off with things like sharpening before quality is reduced, too.

[Earl McLain]

True dad. Good quality and sharp blades/cutters really do help, no matter what the machine or power available. Too many folks (myself included) put off with things like sharpening before quality is reduced, too.

Throw Clean in there too. I little pitch (which I don't have to be able to see) creates a LOT of drag!!
earl