What is this part?

[Jaromir Svoboda]

Hi,
Anybody know name for this part?

Thank you.

[Dan Friedrichs]

You have 2 contactors, there. Each also has an overcurrent protection device on the bottom (although the one on the right contactor has fallen off)

[Malcolm McLeod]

You have 2 contactors, there. Each also has an overcurrent protection device on the bottom (although the one on the right contactor has fallen off)

^+1 (just in case you don't trust Dan:D)

[Jaromir Svoboda]

So I need new contactor?
What would caused this happen?

[marty fretheim]

The one on the right looks to have shorted out. If it was me I'd take a picture of it to remember where the wiring goes. Then figure out how to remove it and look for the name tag on it. I would also be thinking about what caused it to short out. Some times they just do and all that is needed is to replace it.

Why don't you tell us what machine that is. I bet somebody could have some advice for you. Unplug it first of course.

[Jaromir Svoboda]

It's Robland E 300 sliding saw build in 2001.
I'm not even sure where to get part.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Jaromir,

Just in case you aren't familiar with what this part does: this "contactor" is essentially a relay that allows a low-powered signal (from a switch) to control a high-powered load (like a big motor). You can also press the "button" in the middle of the contactor and manually engage it. The overcurrent device at the bottom prevents you from damaging your motor if it were to be overloaded. As you can see, there's a little dial - this dial sets the overcurrent trip point, and should match the current rating on the motor's nameplate.

A contactor and overload are usually paired together, like this, because it's very rare that you wouldn't want both devices when controlling a large motor.

You have one that appears to have failed. It may have shorted (causing the burn marks), or it's possible that a screw wasn't tight enough, causing a loose, high-resistance connections, which could have caused heating and burning.

In any case, you need to replace it.

The "AB" means Allen Bradley - a very common manufacturer of this type of equipment. You can go on Amazon and get a replacement:
https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Bradley-100C09D10-Standard-Contactor-120VAC/dp/B00AAGKKS6

Note that contactors and overloads are rated for particular currents and voltages. I would recommend getting the model numbers off the existing one and using those to find a replacement.

Note that you don't need to replace it with an AB model - you can look on ebay (etc) and find much cheaper contactors, as well.

Before you remove the damaged one, though, I would highly recommend getting some multi-colored tape or something and very clearly labeling each wire, taking LOTS of pictures of what wires went where. With all the wires being red/black, you will have a hard time re-assembling if you aren't VERY careful when dis-assembling.

[Jaromir Svoboda]

Here is a picture.
Thank you for your help.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Example replacement contactor:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALLEN-BRADLEY-100-C12-10/162836116376?epid=2255300819&hash=item25e9c9f398:g:RHwAAOSwN0NaTqSX

If the overload is damaged, you may need to replace it, too.

[Jaromir Svoboda]

I have problem find same one. On all off them on top it says 110V. Old one is 230v.

[Bill Dufour]

You can replace the coil on a contactor for one of a different voltage. If they are the same brand the old coil may fit. Any chance there is a transformer supplying coil voltage?
Those look to be a "DIN" mount style so use that term in your search. I can not read the amp setting.
Bill D

[Bill Dufour]

Ties together like that they are often called a "motor starter". Try using that as a search term on ebay.
Bill D

[Neil Gaskin]

As an alternative to ebay and amazon try

https://www.usbreaker.com/

We had a contactor go on our wide belt sander and they were very helpful making sure we ordered the correct one.

[Malcolm McLeod]

I have problem find same one. On all off them on top it says 110V. Old one is 230v.

The coil voltage is specified by the * in the part number - - the contactor body is p/n 100-C12*10. This defines the number of poles, amperage rating, etc... You insert a letter in place of the * when ordering to define the coil voltage.

I believe you want the 'A' option for 240VAC coil, like this: https://www.reynoldsonline.com/2281858/Product/Allen-Bradley_100-C12A10

Another option is to purchase a unit with the 110VAC coil ('D' option, i think), then remove the coil and replace with the coil from your existing contactor. This assumes that your existing coil is still good: disconnect the saw from power, then use a 230V jumper to apply power ONLY to the coil contacts (at the back/top of the contactor). If the relay enages (pulls in), then the coil is still good.

This part mixing is probably penny-wise-pound-foolish in this case. If you aren't VERY comfortable doing the coil swap, just spend the time and effort to get the right build.

[Jaromir Svoboda]

Is the coil back part of contactor?
How do I take it apart?

I also notice there is a loose wire.I guess that is probably why saw is not working now.
Where should I connect this brown wire? M1/V2?

It is first time I am trying to use it.
I bough it 6 months ago, but my woodshop was not finish yet. Saw worked fine when I bough it.Wire probably got loose when I was moving it and contactor is probably still working.

Thanks for all your help!

[Jaromir Svoboda]

I forgot to attached pictures.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Jaromir, this video shows how to reverse the orientation of a coil (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idwdawyWxb8) in the Allen-Bradley IEC-style contactor (move terminals from top to bottom), but the method to open the contactor case is fairly clear. It would be simple matter to replace the coil while it's open.

As for the loose wire, without a wiring schematic, I would be just guessing - - and would hate to steer you in the wrong direction. I'd contact the manufacturer for tech support.