Block Plane with Nicker?

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Guys, I am considering to upgrade my less than USD 10 block plane by a Lie Nielsen one.

I am trending towards the Rabbet Block Plane w/ Nicker (https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/block-planes/rabbet-block-plane-w-nicker?node=4072) as it could help in the rare occasions where I can need a rabbet plane, besides the function as a "regular" block plane. It could be my first high quality plane since I started on woodworking on the 1980s.

The issue is at "w/ Nicker" portion of the name/description. What is it and what is the function and eventual use? Never listen about that previously...

I thank you in advance for any input. :)

All the best,

[Nicholas Lawrence]

If you want to go cross grain, the nicker will slice the fibers a little ahead of the blade to allow you to make a cleaner cut. Similar to the nicker on a Stanley 78.

[Derek Cohen]

Osvaldo, the LN rabbet block plane is one of those plane that looks like a good idea, but then rarely gets used. I have one, and it has sat on the shelf for many years without use. To be fair, mine does not have a nicker. Nevertheless, I could not imagine wanting to use it as a rebate plane. I'd rather use a proper rebate plane, which is better balanced and has a fence and depth stop. If you really want a plane like that, the Veritas skew block plane is better since it has all these features (although it is one-handed, so you will need two of them).

The other factor you need to seriously consider with a rabbet block plane is that they cut your hands. Like all the time! The blade projects at the sides, and flesh is like a magnet to the corners of the blade. You really would be better off with a traditional block plane. LN make a couple of super versions in the #60 1/2 and #102.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Patrick Chase]

If you want to go cross grain, the nicker will slice the fibers a little ahead of the blade to allow you to make a cleaner cut. Similar to the nicker on a Stanley 78.

One seemingly obvious addition: Nickers are retractable, and only slice the wood if/when you advance them. You can safely ignore them if you're not using the plane in a way that requires them.

[Mike Henderson]

Osvaldo, the LN rabbet block plane is one of those plane that looks like a good idea, but then rarely gets used. I have one, and it has sat on the shelf for many years without use. To be fair, mine does not have a nicker. Nevertheless, I could not imagine wanting to use it as a rebate plane. I'd rather use a proper rebate plane, which is better balanced and has a fence and depth stop. If you really want a plane like that, the Veritas skew block plane is better since it has all these features (although it is one-handed, so you will need two of them).

The other factor you need to seriously consider with a rabbet block plane is that they cut your hands. Like all the time! The blade projects at the sides, and flesh is like a magnet to the corners of the blade. You really would be better off with a traditional block plane. LN make a couple of super versions in the #60 1/2 and #102.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I agree with Derek. I did exactly what you want to do - I got the LN rabbet plane and had the nickers added. I almost never use it. The exposed blade edges do too much damage if you're not careful when you try to use it as a regular block plane. I've also cut myself on the exposed edges of the blade.

If you want a good block plane, get the LN or LV, or if you can get antiques, get a Stanley 65 knuckle joint low angle and put a modern blade in it. That's what I use the most. But almost any of the Stanley low angle block planes will be a good choice if you put a modern iron in it, such as the LV PM-V11.

Mike

[Randy Karst]

Osvaldo,

Exactly as Derek said, when I grab this plane I must be very cognizant of the the blade or "ouch." I do occasionally use it on tenons but other choices abound for this. I will take opportunity to point out that the block plane I use the most is my LN 102 (w/ the Howard Adjuster: https://www.thetoolworks.com.au/?s=howard+adjuster).
I do use my LN 60 1/2 but not nearly as much as I use my LN 102 and both are used way more than the Rabbet Block plane.

Randy

[Bill McDermott]

Osvaldo, Not arguing the points made above, but if the only plane you have is a $10 special... the LN Rabbet Block plane will be a very impressive and versatile tool for you. I have never nicked myself with it. Not sure why. I am not particularly careful. In any case, it is a very well made tool that serves as a smoothing plane if none other is available. It serves as a traditional block plane and can trim end grain like any other, if no other is available. It also serves as a rabbet plane, if none other is available. I particularly like using it on tenon cheeks, where I prefer it to any other plane. For what it's worth, mine is older and does not have nickers. I do have joinery planes with nickers and appreciate their usefulness in cross grain cuts. If I were putting together a set of tools and did not have other joinery planes, I would get a rabbet block again. Of course, a great low angle block plane is a fundamental tool. It would certainly be ahead of a rabbet block plane on my shopping list. Final thought, your $10 special may be a candidate for a fresh and high quality blade. That could be another upgrade path.

[Jim Koepke]

Guys, I am considering to upgrade my less than USD 10 block plane by a Lie Nielsen one.

Does the $10 (USD 10) block plane have a maker and model?

Is there any way you can post an image? Even a link to one on the internet would be helpful. In my hunts some very good planes have been found for $10 or less.


But almost any of the Stanley low angle block planes will be a good choice if you put a modern iron in it, such as the LV PM-V11.

Premium blades are good replacements, but a good original blade is also able to work very well in most cases.

It is being able to get a blade sharp whether it be 1910 steel or 2018 steel that makes a plane perform.

jtk

[steven c newman]

The only "block plane with a nicker" I have..
377535
And works quite nicely doing this...
377536

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Does the $10 (USD 10) block plane have a maker and model?

Is there any way you can post an image? Even a link to one on the internet would be helpful. In my hunts some very good planes have been found for $10 or less.


377554

It is a Stanley. Low quality constructed but I paid cheap at a discount promotion where I usually purchase tools and supplies. I purchased it last year and that was my first block plane (I have had a couple of cheap Stanley no. 4). I honed the blade and I got a few work done with it in a satisfactory way. Definitively a block plane can be useful even for me, as I go to electrical tools for most of my tasks.

Repair at the body: it is not made of cast iron but just a folded steel sheet!

I was surprised I got results with it so I am motivated to purchase a real block plane...

I appreciate yours and other advice as they are very useful as I am inexperienced to hand planes despite my long, but not intense, history with such tools weren't successful.

Thanks again!

[Kevin Smira]

I’m gonna throw this out there...the wood river line of planes are very nice for their price point. All of my bench planes are WR (LAJ, #7, # 5 1/2 and #6). I have two WR low angle block planes as well. I also have a Veritas skew rabbet and large router plane. I don’t have WR in those because they don’t make them. I’ve been very happy with my WR bench planes, but, I have absolutely nothing to compare them to...they were my first planes. At the end of the day, as long as the blade is sharp, you can make the plane work...fit and finish is far superior on a LV or LN plane however...

[Jim Koepke]

I was surprised I got results with it so I am motivated to purchase a real block plane...

I appreciate yours and other advice as they are very useful as I am inexperienced to hand planes despite my long, but not intense, history with such tools weren't successful.

It looks like the modern rendition of the old Stanley #110. A big brother to the #102:

377560

Here it has a blade from a Stanley #45 installed just for fun.

Here is an old post of mine:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148076-Getting-Started-With-Hand-Planes

Post #13 is about bevel down planes. At one time being bevel down was considered, by some, as the distinguishing mark of a plane being a block plane or not.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

That $10 Stanley was more expensive than the Orange Block Plane I reviewed many years ago :)

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/The%20Orange%20Block%20Plane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

Not all block planes are cheapos..
377578
These are my main users, half are standard angle, the other three are low angle planes....none have ever needed a thicker iron, all have the OEM irons.
Knuckle cap is Stanley 9-1/2.....

[Stanley Covington]

I have 4 block planes, made by Sears, Lie- Nielsen, and Veritas, but the LN rabbet block is the one I like best and use the most. I have nicked my fingers but once, maybe twice, but I like to think that was enough to learn how to hold it properly. Very effective tool. I suspect it is not as drop-resistant as a standard model.

[ernest dubois]

Oh, I can imagine such a plane being very handy for doing raised panel work.

[Derek Cohen]

This is a block plane. It is too short to work raised panels and rebates. It can be done, but far from ideal.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Stanley Covington]

Oh, I can imagine such a plane being very handy for doing raised panel work.

I think a skew blade is a big advantage for panel raising, but for cutting/adjusting rabbets around a panel's perimeter, it works fine. The nickers help.

The BR is great for cleaning and fitting rabbets, better than a shoulder plane due to the lower CG. Great for cleaning tenon cheeks and shoulders. Zero clearance lets it fit into tight places better than a standard block plane. Nickers make for clean cuts cross grain, but not as clean as a skew blade. The lower CG makes it easier to control in all conditions IMO.

I seldom use shoulder planes anymore.

[ernest dubois]

This is a block plane. It is too short to work raised panels and rebates. It can be done, but far from ideal.

Regards from Perth

DerekAnd a block plane is one of the most versatile of planes. I use a standard or even low angle block plane for simple panel work, only at the intersection of the field and bevel is it insufficient and needs another way of working there. A skewed blade is indeed better suited at planing across the grain but then this in another discussion.

[Stanley Covington]

And a block plane is one of the most versatile of planes. I use a standard or even low angle block plane for simple panel work, only at the intersection of the field and bevel is it insufficient and needs another way of working there. A skewed blade is indeed better suited at planing across the grain but then this in another discussion.

I agree with you about the BR's versatility. But the skew-blade block plane is indeed germane to this discussion.

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/static-file-transform/2140/thumbnail%2Cw_500%2Ch_500%2Cm_a.jpg

[ernest dubois]

I agree with you about the BR's versatility. But the skew-blade block plane is indeed germane to this discussion.

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/static-file-transform/2140/thumbnail%2Cw_500%2Ch_500%2Cm_a.jpgIs that the lefty version?

[John Schtrumpf]

Is that the lefty version?
That is a left skew version. Left or Right refers to the side of the plane that the skew is on, not necessarily which hand. If you are getting only one, think about how you would use the plane to determine which to get. For instance, I am right handed and got a Left Skew block plane. I usually use it one handed pushing away from me for block plane use or when rabbeting or shooting. When beveling I sometimes use 2 hands going right to left.

377686

[Frederick Skelly]

I’m gonna throw this out there...the wood river line of planes are very nice for their price point. All of my bench planes are WR (LAJ, #7, # 5 1/2 and #6). I have two WR low angle block planes as well. I also have a Veritas skew rabbet and large router plane. I don’t have WR in those because they don’t make them. I’ve been very happy with my WR bench planes, but, I have absolutely nothing to compare them to...they were my first planes. At the end of the day, as long as the blade is sharp, you can make the plane work...fit and finish is far superior on a LV or LN plane however...

I agree Kevin. Nothing wrong with the Wood River planes. I have two. They are a bit heavier though.

Oswaldo, I have the LN Rabbet Block. I like the tool and use it regularly. They are right - you can cut yourself easily. I would not want it as my primary block plane though. It's much bigger than what you now have. I use an LN 102 for general use.

Fred

[Patrick Chase]

I was surprised I got results with it so I am motivated to purchase a real block plane...

A plane is fundamentally just a fixture that holds a chisel at a specific angle/orientation to the wood. As such it doesn't take much to be highly effective. Spending more money mostly buys you a better chisel (plane iron), more usable adjustments, or the need for less fettling/preparation to bring the tool to a usable state.

[ernest dubois]

A plane is fundamentally just a fixture that holds a chisel at a specific angle/orientation to the wood. As such it doesn't take much to be highly effective. Spending more money mostly buys you a better chisel (plane iron), more usable adjustments, or the need for less fettling/preparation to bring the tool to a usable state.
Well, it's a bit more than that, like a sole that provides control over depth of cut, a mouth opening supporting the fibers ahead of the cut, variations in length for following or leveling the wood surface...

[Stewie Simpson]

Well, it's a bit more than that, like a sole that provides control over depth of cut, a mouth opening supporting the fibers ahead of the cut, variations in length for following or leveling the wood surface...

Excellent reply. At long last we have someone that can comprehend the basic principles of a single iron plane.

[Ted Phillips]

Osvaldo, the LN rabbet block plane is one of those plane that looks like a good idea, but then rarely gets used. I have one, and it has sat on the shelf for many years without use. To be fair, mine does not have a nicker. Nevertheless, I could not imagine wanting to use it as a rebate plane. I'd rather use a proper rebate plane, which is better balanced and has a fence and depth stop. If you really want a plane like that, the Veritas skew block plane is better since it has all these features (although it is one-handed, so you will need two of them).

The other factor you need to seriously consider with a rabbet block plane is that they cut your hands. Like all the time! The blade projects at the sides, and flesh is like a magnet to the corners of the blade. You really would be better off with a traditional block plane. LN make a couple of super versions in the #60 1/2 and #102.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I'm on the flip side of this debate. I have three block planes and I end up using the LN rabbet block plane as my primary. It is a great plane - and I just keep the nicker withdrawn when not needing it. Yes, you do need to look at how the iron is sitting in the plane before you use it. But you have the advantage of being able to clean tenons, corners, and rabbets. I love it. My LV regular block plane lives in my drawer...

TedP

[Derek Cohen]

you have the advantage of being able to clean tenons, corners, and rabbets.

I prefer a chisel for tenons and corners. The rabbet block plane is too coarse a tool. I rarely have much waste to remove. I prefer a shoulder plane for rebates. The rabbet plane is poorly balanced for this task.

The only plane I still use this plane is if I need to clean up along a glued drawer blade inside the carcase when fitting a drawer.

Regards from Perth

Derek