Shrinking the shop / Letting go of my table saw?

[Michael Rector]

I'm at a cross roads in my garage shop right now.

My shop currently has the following tools: Laguna 14BX bandsaw, Hammer A3-31 Jointer/Planer, Bosch GCM12SD miter saw, Festool tracksaw w/MFT and a Bosch 4100 jobsite table saw.

The table saw lives on a cabinet that is half table saw cabinet/half router table. I still use it from time to time but lately just have been hating the performance of it. These days I've been milling most of my lumber with the track saw/miter saw (straight line rip/cutting to length/etc) and have only been doing finishing cuts with the table saw because I don't trust it for anything very large. I've been saving pennies for a table saw upgrade either a Hammer K3 or a SawStop (not going to debate that here), but this morning I had a completely different idea.

What if I ditch the table saw all together and upgrade the bandsaw? I would still mill lumber with the miter saw/track saw. I could do rips on the bandsaw and finish in the jointer/planer. Repeatable cross cuts/miter cuts would happen at the miter station. I usually use a router for anything dado related. And I'd get rid of one of the larger pieces of machinery in my shop.

I'm just a hobbyist and not going to do large production anything. When it comes to large sheet goods/cabinet making, well I made the tablesaw/router cabinet using my track saw and router so I'm not worried about losing anything there.

I'd really appreciate thoughts on this!

[Jacques Gagnon]

Hello Michael,

I have a feeling that your post will generate a "diverse" debate! If you have not already done so, you may wish to read the following thread https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?136788-Getting-rid-of-the-SCMS which deals on this topic, but the starting point is actually the reverse: get rid of the mitre saw and keep the table saw.

I do not think there is a right or wrong answer to your question. It boils down to personal preferences. Personally, I would not want to be without a table saw. I do not have a mitre saw, but have a radial arm saw (that I am not using that much, but that's another topic). I am happy with my table saw but if I decided / had to change I would be tempted to go towards a slider (blame Jim Becker and Rod Sheridan for having planted this seed in my brain :) ). This is not a comment aimed at putting down the SawStop product; it is more a reflection of a different approach for working in the shop.

Hope this helps!

J.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Michael, I think you're on the correct track with the K3, and would further recommend the B3 so you can have a shaper.

You could get rid of the table saw, however I went the other way and avoided the track saw, router table, compound mitre saw.

The bandsaw and sliding table saw get a lot of use in my shop (primarily solid wood), however the sliding saw is so easy, capable and competent that I couldn't see going without it. Coupled with a scoring saw for veneered/sheet goods and the 4" depth of cut with a 4HP motor it leaves the other tools in the dust, unless you need job site portability.

That said if you want to get rid of the table saw, try it out. After a year you'll either decide you need a K3/B3 or you'll be fine.........Rod.

[John Sayen]

Making square narrow rips and crosscuts on a tracksaw is challenging (for me anyway) even with the festool tracksaw and MFT. The problem is the wood doesn't extend to the left of the track, which makes it challenging to ensure it's pressed firmly against the crosscut fence. You could accommodate this with a stop-block, or by trying to rip the off-cuts to size but then you're always subtracting the width of the blade.

I do have the seneca parallel guides with narrow stock adapters for longer narrow rips, but if you're ripping something like a cutting board it becomes challenging as the track is much larger than the wood.

Aside from all of that, I much prefer the tracksaw and MFT.

[andy bessette]

...Bosch 4100 jobsite table saw...hating the performance of it...

Who wouldn't? Get a better table saw.

[Ted Derryberry]

I can't imagine a shop without a table saw. I'd give up my miter saw AND my band saw first. Maybe that's just from growing up in a time and place where you never saw a band saw and miter saws were "ten inch chop boxes". The radial arm saw was used for cross cuts, but only rough work that could be done with a circular saw. The table saw was king.

[Frankie Hunt]

I'm at a cross roads in my garage shop right now.
What if I ditch the table saw all together and upgrade the bandsaw?

Like has been said, "there is no right or wrong answer to your question" Only you can decide on how you want to work wood.

I don't think you would gain much at all by upgrading the band saw, the one you have is good enough. Just move the Bosch table saw into storage and do with out it for a while and see how you fair out. No money spent, easy trial run. If it works out wonderfully, then sell that saw at that time and use the funds for what you see fit.

Having said that; once you use a good cabinet saw, its pretty difficult for "most" people to go without. I sure wouldn't want to. A good cabinet saw would be a big improvement over your current setup. A new band saw would not, unless you do a lot of re-sawing...

[Ben Rivel]

Seems to me the only way to know for sure if you can live without a table saw is to first try living/working with a good cabinet saw. I realize thats an expensive way to figure that out, but having worked with only two table saws in my life (a cheap Hitachi jobsite saw, and a Sawstop PCS 3HP cabinet saw) I can tell you that a jobsite saw doesnt even feel like the same tool as a cabinet saw. If you owned and worked with a nice cabinet saw for say a year or so you'd know for sure whether or not you could have a shop without a table saw.

[Michael Rector]

I'm trying to brainstorm possible limitations and the feedback is great so far.

I'm trying to think through my work flows to see where I'd get hung up.

For milling lumber: Use the track saw to put on a straight edge (I suppose this would limit the thickness of lumber the TS 75 which will do 8/4 but a 12" table saw would be better), use the track saw/MFT or miter saw for cutting to length, jointer/planer for squaring and then I was thinking a larger bandsaw for rip width more than resaw/power.

Finishing work: Use the bandsaw for ripping and the jointer/planer for finishing the edges, use the miter saw or track saw/MFT for repeatable cross cuts.

Sheet goods: I only have room for a 36" Sawstop or a 48"x48" K3 in the garage anyway so I wouldn't use it for breaking down sheet goods, that would all happen with the track saw

For any kind of narrow rip or repetitive rips I'd use the bandsaw and clean with the jointer/planer.

Miter cuts would either happen at the miter saw or at the tracksaw/mft.

I'd probably be giving up maximum thickness of wood I could mill limited at about 8/4, not that I do much beyond that anyway but still. And I'd probably lose a level of precision on miter cuts.

I think the advice is good, store the table saw and change my workflow and see how it works. I can figure out where the pain points are and if a K3/SawStop would fix the pain point then I know where I should make my next investment.

[John Sayen]

I'm trying to brainstorm possible limitations and the feedback is great so far.

I'm trying to think through my work flows to see where I'd get hung up.

For milling lumber: Use the track saw to put on a straight edge (I suppose this would limit the thickness of lumber the TS 75 which will do 8/4 but a 12" table saw would be better), use the track saw/MFT or miter saw for cutting to length, jointer/planer for squaring and then I was thinking a larger bandsaw for rip width more than resaw/power.

Finishing work: Use the bandsaw for ripping and the jointer/planer for finishing the edges, use the miter saw or track saw/MFT for repeatable cross cuts.

Sheet goods: I only have room for a 36" Sawstop or a 48"x48" K3 in the garage anyway so I wouldn't use it for breaking down sheet goods, that would all happen with the track saw

For any kind of narrow rip or repetitive rips I'd use the bandsaw and clean with the jointer/planer.

Miter cuts would either happen at the miter saw or at the tracksaw/mft.

I'd probably be giving up maximum thickness of wood I could mill limited at about 8/4, not that I do much beyond that anyway but still. And I'd probably lose a level of precision on miter cuts.

I think the advice is good, store the table saw and change my workflow and see how it works. I can figure out where the pain points are and if a K3/SawStop would fix the pain point then I know where I should make my next investment.

I am not trying to dissuade you but for me, doing narrow rips on the bandsaw and cleaning them on the j/p would be challenging for reliable repeatability. Like, if you needed to rip 10 narrow pieces to the same size. Cleaning them would be a pain to get them all to the same widths. Even with a gauge.

[Scott Buehler]

Table saw is and always has been the most important tool in my shop, I can't imagine trying to work without one. If I were you, I would just get a new improved one.

[julian abram]

Guess I'm old school, table saw is heart of the shop. I have a nice bandsaw and tracksaw but the tablesaw is the last power tool I would dispose of.

[Jerry Olexa]

Its a personal decision but I feel a TABLESAW is the heart/main tool/center of any WWing shop....I still think it is THE ESSENTIAL tool needed for most projects..I prefer its ccontrol and accuracy vs a Bandsaw....Just IMHO..

[Michael Rector]

I am not trying to dissuade you but for me, doing narrow rips on the bandsaw and cleaning them on the j/p would be challenging for reliable repeatability. Like, if you needed to rip 10 narrow pieces to the same size. Cleaning them would be a pain to get them all to the same widths. Even with a gauge.

I actually do this already due to struggling with my table saw.

For instance if I need a bunch of 1" whatevers, I'll cut to 1-1/8" or just under on the table saw and run them through the planer for a consistent 1" piece. It's also a sure guarantee for a perfect edge as good or better than a glueline rip blade on a table saw.

[Michael Rector]

Guess I'm old school, table saw is heart of the shop. I have a nice bandsaw and tracksaw but the tablesaw is the last power tool I would dispose of.


Its a personal decision but I feel a TABLESAW is the heart/main tool/center of any WWing shop....I still think it is THE ESSENTIAL tool needed for most projects..I prefer its ccontrol and accuracy vs a Bandsaw....Just IMHO..

Let me be the first to agree with both of you. Contemplating this is really odd because I completely agree, the table saw is the heart of a wood shop, but I'm wondering if it doesn't have to be :)

[Cary Falk]

You'll take my table saw when you pry it from my cold dead hands. I use it on every project. YMMV.

[Frank Ashmore]

get a real t/s

[John Lanciani]

If I had to make the either/or choice I would give up my tablesaw before my bandsaw. They are both important to me but I'd score it 52-48 for how I work.

[Brian Holcombe]

I’ve worked without a table saw for 10 years, but they are handy. I’d use a good sliding table saw without hesitation.

[Jim Becker]

What you propose is absolutely doable, but it may require rewiring how you think about how to do certain things, replacing some processes with different ones and sometimes being creative. Increasing one's skills with certain non-powered hand tools will also help with the adjustment. I don't miss the cabinet saw I sold one bit, but backing up Brian's comments, my slider has opened up a whole 'nuther level of precise capability inherent in the machine. If I ever downsized, I might give up the long slider wagon, but I'd still want a sliding saw in my shop. That said, I "could" do most of what I currently do with my track saw (Festool), routers, band saw and J/P if need be. That all said, moving to the slider did require me to re-think and re-train my mind around how to do things and again, what you propose will require the same level of change. But you're already part-way there since it sounds like you keep that less-than-satisfying table saw parked most of the time now.

[Mike Heidrick]

I think many folks replying here do not know what the 4100 bosch is. A bunch of plastics and sintered metal. Its nice for a jobsite saw. That thing is designed to rough cut osb out of the back of a pickup. Its also designed to roll away on a gravity rise stand. $500 new typically or less. So, roll it away and try working without it. Roll it out when you need it. A chopsaw and stand may be worth more than the 4100.

[Matthew Hills]

This question comes up periodically, and responses above are typical.

If you want to give this a go, I think you can just unplug your table saw for now and work with the tools you have on hand and see whether it suits you. In particular, I think that you *don't* need to upgrade your bandsaw to evaluate the workflow.

Matt

[Rod Sheridan]

Let me be the first to agree with both of you. Contemplating this is really odd because I completely agree, the table saw is the heart of a wood shop, but I'm wondering if it doesn't have to be :)

Michael, it doesn't have to be, many of us are just familiar with doing it that way.

If I bought a track saw I could live without the table saw. My problem is that I have a sliding saw/shaper and once you go that route you're hooked........Rod.

[Michael Rector]

What you propose is absolutely doable, but it may require rewiring how you think about how to do certain things, replacing some processes with different ones and sometimes being creative. Increasing one's skills with certain non-powered hand tools will also help with the adjustment. I don't miss the cabinet saw I sold one bit, but backing up Brian's comments, my slider has opened up a whole 'nuther level of precise capability inherent in the machine. If I ever downsized, I might give up the long slider wagon, but I'd still want a sliding saw in my shop. That said, I "could" do most of what I currently do with my track saw (Festool), routers, band saw and J/P if need be. That all said, moving to the slider did require me to re-think and re-train my mind around how to do things and again, what you propose will require the same level of change. But you're already part-way there since it sounds like you keep that less-than-satisfying table saw parked most of the time now.


This question comes up periodically, and responses above are typical.

If you want to give this a go, I think you can just unplug your table saw for now and work with the tools you have on hand and see whether it suits you. In particular, I think that you *don't* need to upgrade your bandsaw to evaluate the workflow.

Matt

In an ideal world I would have a 2000+ sqft shop with a table saw of my choice and all the bells and whistles. More than anything I'm trying to think through what processes might be lacking if I don't have one.

I think I have a process in mind for most of the tasks I regularly do and I think they may be a bit more effort intensive, but since this is really a hobby shop and not a efficiency vs money shop and I enjoy the process as much as the finished work I'm not upset by that.

Both of your responses are encouraging, or at the very least "try it, see how you feel about it and go from there". With the stuff I do, I haven't heard anything that I'm not going to be able to do. So as stated, the table saw will move to the side and I'll try the next few projects with what I have. I also agree that the 14bx bandsaw is a good saw, but if things work out this way I'd still love to have a bit more room on the table possibly with extensions like a FB510 to help support longer rips and the like.

It's going to be a fun process either way, and I look forward to seeing how things change and what mistakes I'm going to make!

[Keith Outten]

There are a number of threads here on this topic. Personally I stopped using my table saw a couple years ago and don't miss it one bit. Unlike most I have a panel saw if that makes a difference to anyone but it is just an upgrade to a track saw. The reason I have not missed using my table saw is because I bought a Felder FB610 band saw.

[Jim Becker]

Michael, I built a table extension (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?259888-Project-Bandsaw-Outfeed-from-um-scraps-)&highlight=Extension) for my band saw not long ago...and I really, really, REALLY wish I would have done it years sooner!

[Steve Peterson]

There are many ways to cut wood. Judging by the replies, a table saw is the preference for most people.

I think I could live without it. I have a nice 18" bandsaw that I use a lot more than the tablesaw. Maybe it is because my tablesaw is more of a table than a saw. It takes several minutes to clear off the accumulated stuff sitting on top of the tablesaw. The bandsaw is always accessible. Other decisions are also based on noise levels. The bandsaw is much quieter for the subdivision that I live in.

[andy bessette]

...my tablesaw is more of a table than a saw. It takes several minutes to clear off the accumulated stuff sitting on top of the tablesaw...

Shame on you.

[Simon MacGowen]

+1.

Sell the saw (or any machine that gets not used) or donate it.

The day I get rid of my tablesaw is the day I quit woodworking (my shop is not big enough for a sliding saw). 'nuff said.

Simon

[Michael Rector]

Michael, I built a table extension (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?259888-Project-Bandsaw-Outfeed-from-um-scraps-)&highlight=Extension) for my band saw not long ago...and I really, really, REALLY wish I would have done it years sooner!

This is awesome! Thank you!

[Ted Derryberry]

There are many ways to cut wood. Judging by the replies, a table saw is the preference for most people.

I think I could live without it. I have a nice 18" bandsaw that I use a lot more than the tablesaw. Maybe it is because my tablesaw is more of a table than a saw. It takes several minutes to clear off the accumulated stuff sitting on top of the tablesaw. The bandsaw is always accessible. Other decisions are also based on noise levels. The bandsaw is much quieter for the subdivision that I live in.

My next door neighbor is motorcycle mechanic who works from home. Sometimes I can hear him "diagnosing" a bike over my table saw and dust collector. I'm about ready to put a microphone on the CNC router and shove a speaker out the window.

[David M Peters]

My shot from the hip: sell the table saw, miter saw, and tracksaw. Then purchase a small-format sliding cabinet saw.

[Brian Brightwell]

I like a table saw. I will not be giving mine up either. Actually, I have two table saws a Delta Unisaw and a Laguna. One I rip on the other is set up with a sled for cross cutting. Two saws saves time. I did give away a Craftsman RAS, to make room for a wood lathe. The 16 inch Dewalt RAS does some things better than a table saw.

[Richard Hash]

Simple - unplug your table saw and live without it for the next three months. That should tell you everything you need to know.

[Chris Parks]

Buy a K3 or Minimax equivalent, get rid of the mitre saw and put the router table in the slider as several here have done. The slider will do 99% of what a mitre saw will do and a heap more than a conventional TS will do. You could buy a slider with a shaper in it but for me you need some good training to use it safely, the tooling costs heaps and for a hobbyist it won't do much that a router won't do. If aiming to do semi professional/commercial work a shaper wins every time. People forget what the tooling costs for a shaper, if you reckon router bits are expensive do not even consider a shaper.

[Mike Null]

I've owned a table saw for most of my 81 years. A couple of years ago I decided I wasn't doing enough woodworking to keep it. It was a nice Delta cabinet saw hybrid and I sold it at my price. But something came up and I needed the table saw and I wasn't happy not having one. I went out and bought a Rigid job site saw. I spent a little time tuning it and find that it serves my needs very well and takes up very little space. I am still missing my Forrest WWII blade though.

[Bill Adamsen]

I too have thought about whether I need the tablesaw (I have both a tablesaw and a slider) or rather more specifically the slider. I could likely use a tracksaw (if I had one) for close to 100% of what I use the slider for, though less efficiently I suspect. Getting rid of the slider would free up considerable assembly space. I could likely use the router for anything I currently use the tablesaw for (dados, rabbets, box joints) though I'd have to learn some new methods. I have a large bandsaw in addition to a 14". Both get used though the large saw is more versatile. If I were trying to save room I would get rid of both bandsaws and get an MM16 sized saw. Since you already have the tracksaw and MFT I would think you are close to being able to get rid of that tablesaw.

[Michael Rector]

So I’ve been finishing a bed I’ve been making using bandsaw rips and cleans in the jointer/planer and cross cuts on the MFT and I have a couple observations.

The 14bx with a 3/4 (non-carbide) blade is easy to rip with and control well but doesn’t leave as clean an edge as I was hoping but was still super easy to clean up but I was hoping for better.

It does add an additional step in the mix over a more precise table saw which would just leave a well dimensioned ripped piece of wood. If I were a production shop it would make sense to have a nice table saw, but I didn’t miss it at all and the time added was minimal anyway.


I too have thought about whether I need the tablesaw (I have both a tablesaw and a slider) or rather more specifically the slider. I could likely use a tracksaw (if I had one) for close to 100% of what I use the slider for, though less efficiently I suspect. Getting rid of the slider would free up considerable assembly space. I could likely use the router for anything I currently use the tablesaw for (dados, rabbets, box joints) though I'd have to learn some new methods. I have a large bandsaw in addition to a 14". Both get used though the large saw is more versatile. If I were trying to save room I would get rid of both bandsaws and get an MM16 sized saw. Since you already have the tracksaw and MFT I would think you are close to being able to get rid of that tablesaw.

This is exactly what I’m thinking. I’m considering a MM20 or a FB510. With a larger table and a 1” carbide blade I imaging the ripping would be even better. From the videos I’ve seen on the MM16 that Sam has shared on YouTube I think that would set me.

I’m happy so far and enthusiastic about the possibilities.

[Jim Becker]

Yes, if the band saw is going to move more to the "heart" of the shop, a bigger, heavier, more capable machine is more likely to satisfy because of increased capabilities, including being able to tension that wider, carbide blade properly.

[Chris Fournier]

The table saw will always be the beating heart of my shop. I started out making guitars and used a band saw only, no table saw. I got by but saved up my $$$ for a General 350 and things really took off. If you told me I had to choose B saw or T saw I'd say you have a bad attitude! And the bigger the better for both. For what it's worth from someone who isn't you, your question is really the product of owning a poor table saw. Get the real deal and you won't look back.

[Simon MacGowen]

The table saw will always be the beating heart of my shop.

For what it's worth from someone who isn't you, your question is really the product of owning a poor table saw. Get the real deal and you won't look back.

I was a self-made victim of using lousy tablesaws until I touched a SawStop for the first time when it came out. It was an ICS at work and later I got myself a PCS and as you said, I never look back.

Simon

[Patrick Curry]

This is just my two cents but I donÂ’t think a bigger bandsaw is going to improve your workflow. Your obstacle is not having a good tablesaw.
I have an 18” Lauguna with a 1” Resaw King carbide blade (plus a track saw) and the setup wouldn’t be much better for milling lumber than yours except for my cabinet saw. I think upgrading your BS is the wrong place to put your money. If you’re short on space get a 36” cabinet saw and get rid of the miter station. I keep my miter saw underneath my bench and bring it out for long rough cuts as needed. A sled on a cabinet saw generally will give your better cross cuts.
Your work site saw has a number of limitations and consequently youÂ’ve worked around those. Once you have a cabinet saw youÂ’ll find itÂ’s pretty darn versatile.
No need to dump $3k into one either. Find a decent powematic 66, delta, or a new Grizzly. You can always buy a sawstop later if you find it becomes the center of your shop.
Btw.. 3.125” is your max blade depth on ripping. I may have misread a post but I thought you might be under the impression the rips were limited to 2” or so.

[Michael Rector]

This is just my two cents but I donÂ’t think a bigger bandsaw is going to improve your workflow. Your obstacle is not having a good tablesaw.
I have an 18” Lauguna with a 1” Resaw King carbide blade (plus a track saw) and the setup wouldn’t be much better for milling lumber than yours except for my cabinet saw. I think upgrading your BS is the wrong place to put your money. If you’re short on space get a 36” cabinet saw and get rid of the miter station. I keep my miter saw underneath my bench and bring it out for long rough cuts as needed. A sled on a cabinet saw generally will give your better cross cuts.
Your work site saw has a number of limitations and consequently youÂ’ve worked around those. Once you have a cabinet saw youÂ’ll find itÂ’s pretty darn versatile.
No need to dump $3k into one either. Find a decent powematic 66, delta, or a new Grizzly. You can always buy a sawstop later if you find it becomes the center of your shop.
Btw.. 3.125” is your max blade depth on ripping. I may have misread a post but I thought you might be under the impression the rips were limited to 2” or so.

I’d agree that a bigger bandsaw won’t necessarily improve my workflow, only the quality of work coming from it as a replacement for the table saw. That being said I’m also looking to reclaim shop space and this would fix that.

With respect to ripping, if I use the track saw for crosscuts/initial straightline rips then I’m limited to just over 2”.

[Brian Holcombe]

You can get a tracksaw that will handle thicker material, or you can finish the cut on the bandsaw. Or you can mark with a snapline, cut the line by eye and true ob a jointer.

[Ben Zara]

I think going from bandsaw to jointer constantly would get old. Having an accurate cabinet saw allows you to easily adjust a piece to a specific size and with a nice blade it is glue ready.

The consistency and repeatibility of a good table saw is hard to beat.

[andy bessette]

I think going from bandsaw to jointer constantly would get old...

It simply makes no sense whatsoever.

[Brian Holcombe]

I think going from bandsaw to jointer constantly would get old. Having an accurate cabinet saw allows you to easily adjust a piece to a specific size and with a nice blade it is glue ready.

The consistency and repeatibility of a good table saw is hard to beat.


It simply makes no sense whatsoever.

I improvise when I need to and do so with accurate results. He's asking about rare circumstances where one needs to rip heavy stock.

I do this when breaking down really heavy stock too thick for my tracksaw, like 12/4 and 16/4 material. I can split the line by eye on a bandsaw, so a couple passes on a jointer is enough to make a nice reference.

Cutting to width happens after making a reference (straight line) so one cut that needs to be trued up is hardly worth buying another machine for, especially in a hobby shop.

Max depth of cut on a typical 10" cabinet saw is 3"~ so that's not making it through rough 12/4 which is typically over 3" and certainly not 16/4.

[Bill Adamsen]

I think going from bandsaw to jointer constantly would get old. Having an accurate cabinet saw allows you to easily adjust a piece to a specific size and with a nice blade it is glue ready. The consistency and repeatibility of a good table saw is hard to beat.

I actually do this all the time especially cutting matched veneers where the inside cut will be the face. It makes it easier to get a predictable thickness. But I also do it for many other ripping operations. My cabinet saw doesn't really function at the depth of cut of my bandsaw. My bandsaw and jointer both have just shy of 16" capacity.

[Simon MacGowen]

I actually do this all the time especially cutting matched veneers where the inside cut will be the face. It makes it easier to get a predictable thickness. But I also do it for many other ripping operations. My cabinet saw doesn't really function at the depth of cut of my bandsaw. My bandsaw and jointer both have just shy of 16" capacity.

It always makes sense to use a bandsaw and a jointer (or a thickness planer with a sled) together for resawing stock that can't be handled by a tablesaw. I have done that now and then, but not too often.

At all other times, as others have pointed out, no other methods can match the efficiency of a well-tuned cabinet saw for resawn stock. I could easily run resawn stock on my SawStop (usually with the ICS, also with the PCS sometimes) with a stacked featherboard or sometimes with a tall sacrificial fence as well for an hour or so. I find the Woodworker II really shines in resawing cherry, walnut and even maple with minimal to mostly zero burn marks depending on the feed rate. A quick pass with a low angle jack will get rid of any visible or remaining machine/burn marks. It is hard to beat a cabinet saw in terms of efficiency.

Simon

[Brian Holcombe]

I've offered my suggestion for use when his tracksaw is not enough, its worked plenty of times for me and avoids adding a piece of machinery he seems more interested in removing from his shop.

I have no axe to grind against table saws, as mentioned in my prior replies I'd happily add one to my shop, given the ability to adjust my layout.

[Michael Rector]

Back on track.

I never meant to imply that this workflow was superior to a good cabinet saw or sliding table saw. My original line of questioning was what do I lose from going this route other than potientially(likely) time and efficiency?

I have a 3 car garage and my tools live in the last bay and then expand into the second and first (if necessary) to work. If I have a prolonged project one or both of the cars have to live on the driveway which can be inconvenient during a Denver winter (though not this one :) ).

My current Bosch 4100 lives on a table saw/router table cabinet that I built for the purpose about 34”x48” in size. My original plans were to replace it with something else to be determined in the SS PCS/Hammer K3 price range this spring.

However I’m wondering if I can usefully shrink the foot print of my tools at the cost of perfect efficiency. If I could more easily control the sprawl of the shop by not having a 4’ square object in the middle of it at the cost of things taking longer but with no less precision it might be worth it to me.

I appreciate the value of the table saw and if I were doing projects for money it wouldn’t be a consideration, but as a hobbyist with a dozen or two small and 3 or 4 large projects a year is there value in stepping away from a table saw?

[Cary Falk]

Michael,
I have the same 3 car garage situation that you do. I have a 15" planer, floor model OSS, 6x89 edge sander, full size lathe, cabinet saw, 22/50 drum sander, cyclone, shaper, 17" bandsaw, 20" drill press, and 8" jointer. I am going to add a 2'x4' CNC this year. I will get them all in one bay. The table saw takes up the most room but would be the last to go.

[Randy Heinemann]

I know the response is late in this thread but...Acouple of years ago I needed to replace my underpowered and average accuracy table saw. I heard of Festool and decided to try to without a table saw because buying and installing a Sawstop in my basement was more than I could manage. I found that, while I could do many things with a track saw better and more accurate than with my old table saw; ripping was a task that I still felt most at and did better with a table saw so I bought a jobsite saw. It’s not the most accurate but it very accurate for ripping and some crosscuttong. Since you already own a Bosch 4100 I would think that keeping it is a good choice unless it’s accuracy or power doesn’t serve your needs. You can do without a table saw, especially those of us who don’t do woodworking for a living. Having even a small table saw available; like the Bosch, Dewalt, or Sawstop jobsites, is very functional.

[David Eisenhauer]

Michael - Looking at your yesterday's post, I think you have answered your own question. Yes, it can be done without the TS, perhaps at a slower pace at times, but doable. Bandsaw, track saw, handsaw plus jointer or hand planes will do the job. As has been suggested, put the Bosch away (perhaps even strip it from the cabinet to save space) and work without it for a while. I have a good TS and will continue to use it when it is the right tool for my shop's use, but readily admit that it is best used on sheet goods IMO (not saying it is not/does not work on timber, just typically shines more so on sheet goods). If lots of sheet goods are not part of your workflow, I certainly don't see why not let the TS go and see how you like doing without? If you decide you don't like it, I'm pretty sure someone will sell you any type/brand of TS you can afford. IMO, some of the responses were pretty hardcore pro TS and did not give much preference to your original question. Again, not having a TS need not be written in stone.

[Simon MacGowen]

Festool or at least many Festool owners of its tracksaws and MFT tables like to point out that the plunge saws are there to do the job of a tablesaw. Against the background of SawStop now being part of the family of Festool, this old video made me think perhaps Festool is cooking up something: a Festool tablesaw!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUYDwfovLLI

If that is true, it will be a powerful statement (or reversal of position?) about the importance of a tablesaw in any woodshop.

Can one live without it? Of course. We can live without many other tools: Many shops don't have a bandsaw, mitresaw, lathe, jointer, thicknesser, etc. It all boils down to what you do and how you plan t do it. I know a couple of guys who would build jigs to solve their shop problems while I would go out and buy a commercial solution. We both draw satisfaction from our approaches; though I think they are at times penny wise and pound foolish, but time is not an issue for them (it is for me).

Simon

[Simon MacGowen]

I have a good TS and will continue to use it when it is the right tool for my shop's use, but readily admit that it is best used on sheet goods IMO (not saying it is not/does not work on timber, just typically shines more so on sheet goods).

By TS, I assume you are referring to a jobsite tablesaw or a contractor saw. Jobsite tablesaws are indeed often used for cutting sheet goods by contractor type of woodworkers on site.

Simon