Thinking About Building a Router Cabinet

[Clark Harbaugh]

I have a Grizzly table saw with the router table extension in it, but I've been thinking about building a dedicated cabinet. There are two main reasons. One is the limited space between the router and the edge of the table saw extension. For most pieces, it's not a problem, but when doing some larger raised panels, I'd like a little more support on the piece. The second reason it that for the life of me, I am unable to get the router to 'sit' perfectly vertical with the Grizzly mounting system. I've tried shipping it but just can't seem to get it dialed in. Again, this becomes most noticeable on raise panel doors.

So, I'm looking for ideas and input on what others have done. Most everything else in my shop is shop made, so I'd love to see some pics of cabinets you've made. Also, what top and fence did you guys go with? I'll probably be buying a new dedicated router for this as well, but that choice would be a different thread entirely.

[tom lucas]

I have a Grizzly 1023RWL with the router hole on the right side. I have never used it. I just think it's in the wrong place, at least for my shop. For a number of years I had the cast iron router table like that sold by MCS and others with the sliding table. It's a real nice router table but takes up too much room. So, I decided to buy the router table extension with leg kit sold by Excalibur for the left side of my table saw. I was interested in saving space. So I sold the stand-alone table and went this route to save space. I fitted it with Incra version of the woodpeckers lift. I love this setup. But like you said - not much table in front of the blade. So far, I haven't found it to be a problem. Now if I had a big enough shop I would have probably built a router table. Probably the "This old house" version.

One recommendation I will make is for the Dust Router dust collection attachment. This little silicon rubber cup does a great job. When coupled with fence vacuuming there is virtually no dust. The Dust Router does come with a cheesy hose, but it's the cup that you want. Beats a dust box and your router is never being subjected to dust.

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[tom lucas]

Also, I did a ton of reading before deciding. Many feel the phenolic tops flex and/or sag over time. IOW: cast iron is best. Excalibur sells full size cast iron tops, as an option for you to consider.

[Jim Becker]

I used the BenchDog cast iron system for my router table setup...while I sometimes wish it was slightly bigger, it's a darn nice product.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I built one of Norm Abrams Rev.2 router tables. It works well.

[Roy Turbett]

I built one of Norm Abrams Rev.2 router tables. It works well.

I built the same router table and Norm's original design works very well except for the dust collection. I improved it by moving the makeup air holes from the bottom of the door to the back of the cabinet directly behind the cutter. I made a vent that is similar to the vent holes found on Webber kettle grills and keep it closed for edge routing operations because makeup air is pulled in from the opening in the fence and dust is extracted through the hose behind the fence. The vent is opened for dado operations because the cutter hole is covered and dust is extracted through the hose at the bottom of the cabinet.

[Robert Engel]

Check out the router cab build by Mark Sommerfeld (YouTube).

[tom lucas]

These are the among the better tops:
http://www.general.ca/accessories/acc_shaper/a_40-075.html
http://www.grizzly.com/products/20-x-27-Router-Extension-Table-for-Table-Saw/T10222

And I have:
http://www.general.ca/accessories/acc_shaper/a_40-068.html

Peachtree has one of the better buys:
https://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_router_tables_3043.htm

[Mike Wilkins]

Had a home built version of Norm's router cabinet and used it for years. Couple of months ago I got a Kreg stand that they offer for their router table tops and rolled my own from it. Used plywood to encase the sides, back and bottom; made some slide out drawers for the router bits and other storage features for accessories. Fine Woodworking magazine Shops issue had an article on one persons shop that featured roll-around cabinets for his shop. He used this same stand with an enclosed plywood box and made his own. Similar to what Woodpeckers and other companies sell as a package deal. Lots of options to glean ideas from.

[David Utterback]

Still have Norm's cabinet for mine but recently added my own top when I added a lifter. The previous Rockler top did not overhang the sides of the cabinet which limited the use of clamps for fences.

[Eric Anderson]

I also built a Norm'ish router table, but used the bench dog cast iron top, a woodpeckers lift (the Bench dog top has a non-standard lift size), and Jessem fence. I also changed the DC by having a 4" line underneath the top and a 2 1/2' DC line behind the fence. Not perfect, but certainly in the 90% + range. I've been really happy with it so far.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Remember that Norm didn't do the original design on his router table. It was based on American Woodworker's router table. He refered to their shop as a "temple of wood," when he visited prior to building his first version.

[John Durbin]

I built a Norm'ish router table also. I made the top out of 2 layers of MDF and laminated the top and bottom. One nice thing I just got for it is from infinity tools is a Router Table Top Stainless Steel Insert Ring. The router plate sits on top of it and will not dig into the MDF at all. I have a Jessem plate and the adjusters are on the bottom of the plate, so now it sits on the insert. There are a nice set of plans I used at http://www.crestonwood.com/router.php I am very happy wit hit.

[Bryan Hunt]

You can check out the router table I built here: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?212354-My-dream-router-table-is-complete&highlight=router+table

I went with the Bench Dog top and love it. One change I made to it since the build was to swap out the wood drawer pulls with metal ones. The wood ones stripped the screws. One change I need to make is to get a complete seal between the router compartment and the top. When I route something like a dado, the majority of the shavings go into the router bit drawer on the top left.

[tom lucas]

I like the bench dog top, but doesn't it have a nonstandard cutout?


You can check out the router table I built here: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?212354-My-dream-router-table-is-complete&highlight=router+table

I went with the Bench Dog top and love it. One change I made to it since the build was to swap out the wood drawer pulls with metal ones. The wood ones stripped the screws. One change I need to make is to get a complete seal between the router compartment and the top. When I route something like a dado, the majority of the shavings go into the router bit drawer on the top left.

[Jim Becker]

I like the bench dog top, but doesn't it have a nonstandard cutout?

Perfectly "standard" for the BenchDog lift. :) Seriously, there is no 'standard' for the cutouts and there are several sizes and corner radiuses out there with the various manufacturers. They like to get someone to use their inserts/lifts with their tables for obvious reasons. I've been very pleased with the BenchDog cast iron table and the BenchDog lift.

[tom lucas]

From what I've read it's only the benchdog that is "nonstandard". I tried 3 different ones in my cutout. They all fit identically. Only one was from the same mfr. as the top.

[Jim Becker]

Maybe things have changed in recent years, Thomas, but I do remember multiple products that had different dimensions from various manufacturers back in the time when I was building my original Norm Abram inspired router table. I had to cut a second top because of making, um...assumptions... ;)

[Brian Henderson]

I built one of Norm Abrams Rev.2 router tables. It works well.

I did too but I also had one in the wing of my table saw and it was so much more convenient that I never used the stand-alone. I wound up getting rid of it before I moved. I've modified the table saw insert to have all the functionality of the stand alone and I don't have to wander all over the shop to use it.

[Jim Dwight]

My router table is my fourth or fifth and looks like Norm's but it incorporates a lift adapted from an american woodworker article including a tilt up top - makes bit changes much easier. The top is a sink cutout backed with 3/4 plywood. No router plate. The router motor mounts to the lift which mounts to the back of the cabinet. My fence is held to the top by short pipe clamps. I have suction from the cabinet where the motor is and from the fence. I do not plan any more router tables.

[Chris Parks]

The first rule for building a router table is do not use a router to put in it and all the problems connected to the top go away. A conventional router table is totally the wrong way to go, the top has to be stupidly strong, the router is stupidly noisy and the router lift costs a fortune. Using a CNC spindle makes way more sense as a recent thread here discussed and is cheaper with a better result and far more advantages.

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-8912-shop-made-router-lift

[Brian Brightwell]

My router table. Could someone tell me how to delete a picture and an attached thumbnail.
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[tom lucas]

Maybe things have changed in recent years, Thomas, but I do remember multiple products that had different dimensions from various manufacturers back in the time when I was building my original Norm Abram inspired router table. I had to cut a second top because of making, um...assumptions... ;)

Sorry, Jim. I'm not trying to be contrary. I really liked and wanted to use the bench dog top when I was going through this about a year ago. But, everything I read said the bench dog opening would not work with standard lift type inserts. So, I went in a different direction for that very reason, and I verified opening dimensions before I bought. I have no first-hand experience with the bench dog. So, I am only repeating what I read from several sources of surprised (and disappointed users). Bench dog products appear to be quite excellent. I'm just saying to the OP to make sure the opening works with their plans.

[Jim Becker]

I understand, Thomas. But BenchDog does offer their own lift...which I own and enjoy...and that's a solution if one really likes their cast iron top and doesn't already own someone else's lift. (http://www.rockler.com/bench-dog-40-150-prolift-router-adjustment-system)

[tom lucas]

Yeah it's a nice lift. I just wanted the incra woodpeckers version with instant lift/lower, fine thumbwheel adjust, and magnetic inserts
https://www.incra.com/router_system_accessories-prl-v2.html

The other reason I went General/Excalibur is for the folding leg supports, which I suppose could be fitted to most any table. I thought a bigger table in front of the blade would be better, but eventually came to the conclusion that I would rarely need the bigger table. Hence, the smaller Excalibur table. Might regret it some day, but so far I love it and the fence is awesome too.


I understand, Thomas. But BenchDog does offer their own lift...which I own and enjoy...and that's a solution if one really likes their cast iron top and doesn't already own someone else's lift. (http://www.rockler.com/bench-dog-40-150-prolift-router-adjustment-system)

[Jim Becker]

Thomas, your comment on table size is relevant to me. If mine was stand-alone, I'm sure I'd consider it too small, but I set mine up as a "poor man's shaper" on my slider so I have the width of the slider wagon available when I need it for routing edges of larger panels. (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?54500-Project-Router-Station-For-Sliding-Table-Saw&highlight=BenchDog)