Ideas for chisel edge guards

[James Spillman]

I'm looking for ways to protect the edges of my chisels. I hate to see them bang into each other after spending so much time to get them sharp. What's your solution?

[lowell holmes]

I keep my chisels in a leather chisel roll. It works.

https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?hspart=pty&hsimp=yhs-pty_email&param2=23a20141-fcf6-4299-89f4-cd972799a611&param3=email_2.0~US~appfocus1&param4=d-lp0-bb8~Chrome~leather+chisel+roll&param1=20180115&p=leather+chisel+roll&type=em_appfocus1_cr

[Patrick Chase]

I'm looking for ways to protect the edges of my chisels. I hate to see them bang into each other after spending so much time to get them sharp. What's your solution?

My most commonly used chisels lay flat in a shallow drawer, and don't need or have guards. Others (and my carving tools) are in tool rolls, and likewise don't need guards of their own.

When I do store chisels in places where they can come into contact with each other I use off-the-shelf edge guards. I like these silicone ones (https://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-Silicone-Chisel-Guards-10pcs/dp/B01BWO4AU8) and the magnetic ones (http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=66248&cat=1,41504) that LV sells. I put thick HDPE tape on the metal bottom surface of the LV ones as an added precaution.

[Jim Koepke]

It really depends on your needs. Keeping in a rack works fine for in the shop. Some folks make leather pockets or even tool rolls to keep them from banging into each other. One of my solutions for shipping is to use old wine corks. Actually many years ago a friend gave me a bag of unused wine corks.

Some make cases that look to be a display case, but they keep the chisels separated.

jtk

[Bill Houghton]

I have some plastic guards that slip on. They work for me, and they're particularly handy for field work (when they're in the tote). The newer versions are flexible silicone; mine are not-so-flexible plastic, but they work.

[James Spillman]

Most of my chisels hang on a pegboard wall rack. On occasion one gets knocked onto the tile floor. Also they are not safe on my workbench. I'm thinking of making edge guards using masking tape and Plasti dip. However, I'm open to other ideas.

[Jim Koepke]

Most of my chisels hang on a pegboard wall rack. On occasion one gets knocked onto the tile floor. Also they are not safe on my workbench. I'm thinking of making edge guards using masking tape and Plasti dip. However, I'm open to other ideas.

Here is a rack that was used when my accumulation of chisels was much smaller:

377215

It was wall mounted and none of my chisels learned to jump out to the floor.

It is now used on my bench top to keep chisels, gouges and other tools from rolling off.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I keep my chisels in leather roll.

https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?hspart=pty&hsimp=yhs-pty_email&param2=23a20141-fcf6-4299-89f4-cd972799a611&param3=email_2.0~US~appfocus1&param4=d-lp0-bb8~Chrome~leather+chisel+roll&param1=20180115&p=leather+chisel+roll&type=em_appfocus1_cr

[Patrick Chase]

Most of my chisels hang on a pegboard wall rack. On occasion one gets knocked onto the tile floor. Also they are not safe on my workbench. I'm thinking of making edge guards using masking tape and Plasti dip. However, I'm open to other ideas.

Sugru! :-)

Or maybe a ball of tape that you can just jam the chisel into. If you play hockey you'll probably have some laying around anyway.

Seriously, why not take advantage of the modern miracle of mass production and just buy some of the many options that are out there?

While I can't condone dropping chisels on the floor even with a guard, I'd strongly consider the metal ones that LV sells if I were you. Tool steel isn't designed to take impact loads like that, but I think that either those or the silicone ones that WoodRiver sells give the best chance of survival. The harder plastic ones transmit impacts too well and come off too easily IMO.

[David Bassett]

... the silicone ones that WoodRiver sells ....

FYI: the WoodRiver Edge Guards will be 50% off, ($4.99 for 10 pcs,) starting Friday.

(Next month's sale flyer just came a couple days early.)

[Pat Barry]

My Narex chisel set came with plastic clip on protectors. They do a good job. A little bit of a pain to keep track of when using the chisel.

[Stanley Covington]

Wooden sheathes are one solution. They are a bit bulky, but get the job done. Be sure to let the glue dry very very very completely before storing a chisel in one. Epoxy is better than water-based glue for this application, IMO.

http://blogimg.goo.ne.jp/user_image/43/66/5147fa07a0f638e43861857641cb3291.jpghttp://blogimg.goo.ne.jp/user_image/69/12/127a335d3075e1e279649d2869fe4403.jpg

Leather and canvas rolls are risky for long-term storage, as they can wick moisture and cause rust. However, it you make a plastic sleeve to protect the blade from contacting the leather or canvas, problem solved. The stiff plastic used for packaging retail products can be cut, bent and glued/stapled to make useful sleeves.

Boxes that keep the chisels separated, and protect them from dings, dust and moisture are best, of course.

[lowell holmes]

I'm sure you are speaking from experience. Not to be argumentative, I live in Galveston County Texas. The climate is warm and mostly humid.
I have not experienced my chisels rusting. I would say if leather appeals to you, try it and see. If rust forms, do something else.
I will have to say your chisels are top of the line chisels. I would keep them in boxes too.

[Stephen Rosenthal]

That's what I did, but used blue painter's tape instead of masking tape. I let the first coat of Plasti-Dip dry completely and then did a second dip. Got the idea from Chris Schwarz. It's a custom fit to each chisel. Cheap and works great plus I've found many other uses for Plasti-Dip.

[Todd Stock]

For stuff under a 1/2", a plastic wine bottle faux-cork (low density foam core with higher density outer sleeve) works fine - cutting a slit with knife or a double bevel carving chisel on the 1/4" and up will keep the cut centered. Most tools can be dropped on their tip with phony cork in place and just bounce a bit. For wider tools, the ideas above work, but veggie tanned leather guards with a lace look nice and work well for stuff like framing chisels or slicks - waxed polyester twine and a leather punch (think sailmaker's supplies) sews the stuff, or rivets.

A tool tray (I know - they take some discipline) and avoiding the use of the top of the bench as a tool storage system minimizes cutting concrete with freshly honed edges, and racks with tip guards in back of the bench address storage in the shop. One of these days, I'll do what Filippo over at Morelli Guitars did and build a lovely cabinet of figured wood with a metric crap ton of shallow drawers to house all the seldom-used carving and specialty edge tools that currently reside in tool rolls or bump edges in steel drawers at present.

[Stanley Covington]

I'm sure you are speaking from experience. Not to be argumentative, I live in Galveston County Texas. The climate is warm and mostly humid.
I have not experienced my chisels rusting. I would say if leather appeals to you, try it and see. If rust forms, do something else.
I will have to say your chisels are top of the line chisels. I would keep them in boxes too.


Lowell

I have stored chisels in both canvas and leather rolls in humid conditions for months on end, and yes, the rust that resulted was pretty bad. When circumstances required me to remove, use, sharpen/oil, and replace them, rust was not bad. I am glad your experience has been better, and wish you the best of luck in the future.

Stan

[Matt Lau]

My solution is not as elegant as Stan's, but really simple.

I use dental putty material. It's a two part condensation silicone.
If you can't get some, as your dentist to order you some.

Tear off equal parts, mix it with your bare hands, wrap around your chisel and shape it.
Let cure for 5 minutes and you have a very well fitting protective tip cover.

[Patrick Chase]

My solution is not as elegant as Stan's, but really simple.

I use dental putty material. It's a two part condensation silicone.
If you can't get some, as your dentist to order you some.

Tear off equal parts, mix it with your bare hands, wrap around your chisel and shape it.
Let cure for 5 minutes and you have a very well fitting protective tip cover.

I wonder how much that differs from something like Sugru? The latter is a one-part air-cure compound that takes much longer to set, but is also quite a bit harder based on my experience of dental putties it seems otherwise similar.

[Derek Cohen]

I'm looking for ways to protect the edges of my chisels. I hate to see them bang into each other after spending so much time to get them sharp. What's your solution?

James, I would not use guards on chisels. Inevitably they need to be stored somewhere when the chisel is used, and get lost. They are also fiddly, some do not fit well, and others (such as masking tape) gum up the steel.

You do not say whether you are looking for a permanent solution, or a travelling one.

My permanent solution is to store my most used chisels in a cabinet alongside my bench. They hang in racks where they will not bump into one another, plus are easy to access.

https://s19.postimg.org/7bwp6wpjn/Blue_Spruce.jpg

I have a set of bench chisels that rest in a tool tray attached to the wall behind the bench. These are immediately to hand and, again, do not bump into one another. This is also where I will place a chisel (e.g. a mortice chisel) that is currently in use and has come out of a cabinet ...

https://s19.postimg.org/jajbd2ks3/VeritasChiselReview_html_17f5ec29.jpg

I have some sets in boxes, since these will travel with me to wood shows when I do demonstrations. Here is one ...

https://s19.postimg.org/xgz28b3cz/VeritasChiselReview_html_m17c99c48.jpg

When the lid is closed, the chisels cannot move in their designated position ...

https://s19.postimg.org/uznb11r6b/VeritasChiselReview_html_190af34b.jpg

Some less frequently used chisels, such as these gouges, are stored in leather rolls. I have not experienced any problems with rust (these are sold by LV) ...

https://s19.postimg.org/3sarh3ujn/Incannel1_zps87b928dc.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Stephen Rosenthal]

Derek,

FYI, when using the Schwarz method of tape and Plasti-dip, the adhesive side of the tape is on the outside and never touches the steel. I wrap the tape tightly around three times, fold the 1/8" end over the tip and then dip it, let it dry for 24 hours, then dip again. Trim off the exposed tape and you get an exact fit. Easy to redo if they wear out, which thus far they have not. Admittedly not nearly as elegant as yours, but it works perfectly. Btw, I keep my Lie-Nielsen chisels with the original long vinyl guards in their leather chisel roll and have never had a rust issue either.

Steve