Best way to make cut out handles

[laura vianello]

I love the simplicity of these cut out handles. See:
https://cdn.remodelista.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/2Christen-Starkenburg-Jan-de-Jong-Slow-Wood-kitchen-Netherlands-Anna-de-Leeuw-photo-Remodelista-2-768x1152.jpg
However my drawers are really big (40x12)...what is the right length of the handle. Is there any proportion kind of rule? What is the best method to make them. I have a plunge router but never used before. Thanks for helping
LV

[Jim Morgan]

For wider drawers, you might consider two cut-outs rather than one. Once you have decided on a pleasing contour, make a template (1/4 mdf is fine for this) & fair the curves with spokeshave, files or sandpaper; use the template to mark the contours on your drawer faces. Use a bandsaw or jig saw to cut out most of the waste (to within 1/8" or less). Then stick the template in place with some double face tape and remove the waste with a bearing guided router bit.

[Jerry Miner]

+1 ^. I make them just as described by Jim above. I make my templates to these dimensions (there is no "standard"-- builder's choice):

377154

[lowell holmes]

I don't have a need to use it, but your tip is a very good one. I like it.

[Ted Derryberry]

I like to make my templates big enough to use clamps without them getting in the way. I don't quite trust double sided tape that much, clamps aren't a "consumable", and are probably quicker.

[laura vianello]

i decided that the cut out can be easily rectangular... i guess it would be easier. Hovewer i would love to build a jig because i have 30 cut outs .... which bit do i need to use if i build a jig? any preferred method? i would love to avoid jig saw and drilling....consistency might be an issue.

[Bryan Lisowski]

I wouldn't bother making a rectangle. The photo you posted was probably done with a router. I would take a piece of 1/2" MDF the same size as your drawer front, I would then layout the shape of the cut out. Drill a hole at each end and then cut with the jigsaw. Sand and finesse until it is what you like. Clamp the template to the drawer front and go to work.

[Jerry Miner]

Laura-- the point of using a router jig is to get the consistency you want. Drill and jigsaw are the "rough cuts" and the router cleans up to the precise pattern--- so even if you use a router (which I would recommend) you still want the jig saw (drill optional)-- or even coping saw or scroll saw or band saw-- to cut close, then follow up with the router. A drill press makes it easier to make a clean, smooth round-corner template/pattern.

1/2" mdf, as suggested above, is ideal for the template/pattern--but any scrap material would work. Mdf is good because it is easy to shape to a smooth pattern.

To do template routing, you should get a "pattern bit" aka top-bearing bit like this:

377238
Can also be done with a "bottom-bearing" or "flush trim" bit by putting the template on the bottom:

377239

[laura vianello]

377242Let me clarify when I say "rectangle": the shape of the cut out will be like the one in this picture. My understanding is that I need to build a jig with the same shape to put on top of the drawers and route the opening. If I use a pattern bit do I plunge all the way down and then I follow the template (clock wise) or do I have to do a pass at the time? I thought that a square/rectangle cut out would be faster and it would look better in particular on huge drawers (2x). I could not find any good video in youtube for this specific application. Sorry I am a visual person :(

[laura vianello]

Jerry, I was trying to avoid one step and tons of dust. While I can take care of router dust I have no way to limit the dust with the jig saw. If I have to use a jig saws, I need to wait for spring to do the job out side. Because I have few hours a week, the weather in the northeast does not always deliver what I need :). I am trying to look at youtube using a different keyboard "pattern bit". I do not really care if after the project the bit is trash, I need to do things quick and easy because I am doing this alone with almost no time. thanks for your great suggestion. TC

[Jerry Miner]

I was advising against doing all the cutting with the router. It CAN be done that way, but it's a little slow, and you should really "nibble away" at the cut, not try to do it in a single pass.

If you WANT (I wouldn't but you can) do do the cut-out in a single pass, and more rectangular, you'd be better off with a smaller-diameter bit:

377289

BTW-- the router will fling lots of dust at high speed. The jigsaw makes less dust and doesn't throw it as far (slower speed tool). The coping saw makes even less dust.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I would suggest you use a router and a template guide with a template cut out in the shape of your handle. The biggest issue will be with the corners, as the router will obviously leave rounded corners. If you really want them square, you will need to jigsaw them or chisel them square.

What many would do is jigsaw out most of the waste, then run your router to clean up the edges.

Doc

[Jim Becker]

Template routing is the way to do the final cut...wasting extra material with a jigsaw makes for a single pass with the router. I find that best results come from roughing the cut with the jigsaw (or bandsaw) to no more than half the pattern router bit's diameter. This whole operation can be pretty quick with batch processing.

[David Eisenhauer]

Laura can you hang some visquine curtains (taped together at the corners) around and underneath your work area to contain the jigsaw dust and chips? The method using a jigsaw (or similar) to rough cut within 1/8" of the line, followed by the top bearing router bit against a template results in a very consistent and clean cut out. Also, I know you did not ask, but for my eyes, a rounded corner handle looks better and would feel better to use than the squared off handle. I agree, it is your cabinet and the handles should be whatever you like.

[Sam Murdoch]

What is the material of the drawer fronts - plywood, solid hard wood, pine? Just curious as to the amount of work ahead of you :).

You can do it all with a router and a top bearing bit as shown above with some care. Ideally the bit should be a 1/2" shank and not a real tall cutter.
The long cutter creates an issue with doing this all with the router as in order to do this safely, consistently and not burn up more than a few bits (the reason for my 1st question) you will need to take multiple passes. The hardness and thickness of the material be your guide. For 3/4" thick ply or hardwood I would take 3 passes. For pine I would be comfortable with 2 passes.

In either case you want your template to be 3/4" thick so that you can lower your bit incrementally and always have full support of the bearing on the guide. The 2nd and 3rd passes are easier - as you lower the bit you increase the support at the bearing but the need for full support with the 1st pass is even more critical. This is why you want a shorter cutter and a thicker template. A 1" cutter for 3/4" material is great.

I too prefer to make my templates big enough so that I can clamp at either end well clear of the running router. I don't like taking chances with double sided tape or the like. A secure template well located and out of the way of your work zone makes for the safest approach. Drawer your centerline on the template so that you can easily and repeatedly register it on your work.

Of course the template will need to be cut with other than a router so no matter your approach, at some point you will have some saw work.
Nearly everyone above has encouraged you to cut to your line and just use the router to clean up your edge. That is the best method as it eliminates lots of passes with the router and the repeated element of risk and fatigue that is a factor of that work.

Perhaps consider investing in a good coping saw. Do some hand cuts to minimize the dust. Its quiet work and though not the fastest approach - fast enough and good practice. It will cut down your router work by at least 1/2. Could be fun.

I use to be an apartment dwelling /working furniture builder in the day too. Built some custom hexagon shaped poker tables with leather tops in my early days (among other less ambitious projects). They were quite the conversation pieces when company came calling. They were there for nearly 2 months :D so lots of opportunity to talk around them. You do what you have to do :cool:. Good luck.

[Bohdan Drozdowskyj]

Just to throw a spanner in the works I would suggest that you do the whole job with the router and a copy ring. Make your template to suit whatever cutter and ring that you have and route in multiple depths. Much quicker and cleaner than mucking around with drills and/or jigsaws.

[laura vianello]

Greg, if you see the last pic I posted, I do not need perfect 90 corner because I actually like the contour in the corners like the pic

[Bill Adamsen]

I have a stationary oscillating spindle sander which makes this job quick and easy with no template required. Choose the spindle to match the radius of the handle corner. Rough out waste and then use the fence with stops (or eyeball) to establish the handle length. The fence depth from the face of the spindle establishes the size of the handle. The sander has good dust collection and is a stable platform for sanding the inverted drawer. A waxed surface keeps even finished drawers from getting scratched. Finished handle requires little additional sanding typically just to match drawer edging profile.

[Dave Cav]

I'm in the template routing camp.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPwokpRYBN4

As far as the sawdust issue is concerned, that's just part of woodworking.

[laura vianello]

David, i originally evaluated also big holes pulls. The cabinets as per my picture are really modern nordic looking, kind of minimalist. The roundish handle would be too small on a 40x12 “ drawer. I looked for pictures and i thought that for such a big surface squarish would have looked better. the rectangle still has some countoured angles but it looked to me that the half moon kind looked occurd. The pics i attached were the only one I found as an inspiration. It is hard to find cutout pulls ... i guess it is too modern and industrial looking377414377415

[laura vianello]

Hello Sam, the material is 3/4 BB ply. if you look at my original pics and others that i attached to other replies you will have an idea of the industrial look i am going for...some would call it Nordic or Scandinavian. i love BB ply,,, Thanks for your suggestions. i only concerned about the time to complete. We need that room and at the same time it has become my playground and all the things that i wanted to design in my life and I could not!

[Sam Murdoch]

If time is a huge issue - buy and attach a bunch of cheap wire pulls. Get a size that the drill holes will be within the footprint of your cutout handles. This spring or summer - take the drawer fronts out as you have time and saw/rout the pulls. I understand that is not what you are wanting to do but worth a consideration?

I really like the look you are intending so my suggestion is not an alternate - just a deferred gratification plan :).

BB will require 3 passes with a router unless you precut to near the line. I like BB too but it can be brutal on high speed cutters.

[laura vianello]

Well, that is a good idea! However considering how much it will take to perfectly align the doors (they are inset), I am not sure I want to take them out in the summer. I might just go for a round cut (to put my fingers in and pull the drawers) and call the day....the summer I get the weather not the time...and the company I work for is squeezing 14 h of work out of me :(

[David Eisenhauer]

Laura - The hand holes in your first photo look better to me and should be easier on the hands than some earlier totally square hand holes you showed. I like the rounded corner holes here. I also liked Sam's idea of installing wire pulls now and then cutting out your preferred hand hole later on, but your taste and schedule may not work for that. I wish you success.