Time to fit box joints

[Bill Sutherland]

Got my box joints cut a couple of weeks ago and it all fit great. I had to leave it a couple of weeks and now the fit isn't as good. How long do you guys wait after you've cut your box or dovetail joints before final glue up?

[Lee Schierer]

I usually assemble them the same day they are cut.

[Cary Falk]

I usually cut and assemble the same day unless I cut a lot of them and then assemble the next day.

[Jim Becker]

Material like wood changes over time, even over short periods of time with temperature and humidity. And not every component, even from the same wood will behave identically. So like the others said, joinery like box joints and dovetails are best put together soon after they are cut.

[Steve Lansing]

I use epoxy on tight fitting box or dovetail joints, it makes assembly a lot easier.

[Cary Falk]

I use epoxy on tight fitting box or dovetail joints, it makes assembly a lot easier.

Not arguing with this but I am curious why epoxy is easier? Yellow Glue and a dead blow works for me.

[lowell holmes]

Response to Cary, different strokes for different folks. :)

[Bill Sutherland]

After some "persuasion" from 4 Bessey clamps I got a smidge closer but not to where I started. Even some dead blows couldn't get me there.

[Robert L Stewart]

Epoxy is like a lubricant.

[Bill Sutherland]

How fast does the epoxy set up and what brand are you using?

[Lee Schierer]

Not arguing with this but I am curious why epoxy is easier? Yellow Glue and a dead blow works for me.

Yellow Glue or any PVA glues contain water and they will cause the pins and tails to swell slightly as soon as it touches the wood. Epoxy doesn't do that and before it sets, it is slippery.

[Steve Lansing]

I use epoxy for the reasons others have already posted: no swelling and acts as a lubricant.

[Steve Lansing]

I use System Three T88

[Bill Sutherland]

How well does epoxy do if mixed with a bit of sawdust to hide any small gaps? Yellow glue doesn’t stain very well when used this way.

[Jim Becker]

Epoxy isn't going to take stain or dye at all once cured. You can color it while it's in liquid form, however, with appropriate dye.

[Lee Schierer]

How well does epoxy do if mixed with a bit of sawdust to hide any small gaps? Yellow glue doesn’t stain very well when used this way.

The best thing to do is to mix up your sawdust with some stain first and then mix it with the glue. What I prefer to do is mix "natural" color wood putty with stain and fill the holes with correctly tinted wood putty. Or I cut slivers from matching wood to fill gaps.

[David Eisenhauer]

Liquid Hide Glue also lubricates joints as they are being pulled together and offer the ability to undo if the glue up does not work as desired.

[Bruce Day]

I've always found Titebond Liguid Hide Glue works good.

[Steve Lansing]

I had a little Unibond 800 left from a veneer glue up and tried it on some tight box joints and worked great.

[Bill Adamsen]

I frequently make large boxes – 12" to 16" high – typically gluing up the same day cut. After a few hair raising struggles with standard TB1, I've shifted to TB Extended Time which can be hard to find. Its extended open time gives the confidence needed to assemble, square and clamp. I am most impressed that someone would consider using epoxy since I would think it would create a daunting cleanup job and challenge to final sanding and successful finishing.

Tips I've learned cutting box-joint drawers. Wood species matter. Loosen pattern when shifting from softwood to hard. Glue ... less is best. Easier cleanup and there is so much surface area that not much is required. Drawer/box corners are cross-grained construction. Butts will stand proud in winter and short in summer.

Lee's suggestion is actually what I would do. Cut slivers (hand plane) of the same wood and slide those into the cracks with whatever glue you used. Cut and sand the excess when cured. Since the joints have adjacent end grain you might be able to slide the slivers in on an angle and still have it look right and match expansion/contraction more or less.

[Steve Lansing]

The time it takes to apply a little glue on each surface can be quite time consuming especially on a 12 to 16” hi box.

[Bill Adamsen]

The time it takes to apply a little glue on each surface can be quite time consuming especially on a 12" to 16” hi box.

After trying some systemized approaches (combs, etc.) I have settled on brute force ... turn up the radio and use a small wooden stick to apply glue on top and bottom of each finger by tapping quickly. Getting through all eight corners can take enough time that the TB Extend is most welcome. I'm sure there are better ways, but that is how I do it.

[Steve Lansing]

That has been my method for years - small wood stick and radio volume up!

[Larry Edgerton]

I frequently make large boxes – 12" to 16" high – typically gluing up the same day cut. After a few hair raising struggles with standard TB1, I've shifted to TB Extended Time which can be hard to find. Its extended open time gives the confidence needed to assemble, square and clamp. I am most impressed that someone would consider using epoxy since I would think it would create a daunting cleanup job and challenge to final sanding and successful finishing.



Bill. I may have an easy solution for you I use with Titebond. It is terribly dry here and I do drawers with slatted sides, so many parts. What I do to increase is take a cakepan, fill it with about 1/2" of water, and a couple of minutes before I start to clamp up I dip the ends in the pan. Has not caused me any problems and allows me to use Titebond in the winter. I tried the extended time stuff,, but really not much difference for me.