Hardwood flooring nailer

[Mike OMelia]

I have some hardwood flooring to install. I want to buy a good nailer that I can turn around and sell when I’m done. I know nothing about these. I have a larger 60 gallon tank. Lots of hose. Thoughts?

[Clint Baxter]

I've been happy with the Bostich nailer I purchased. I believe it is the MIIIFN. Have used it on Hickory, Brazilian Cherry and Oak flooring with no issues. I've also got the Bostich flooring stapler, MIIIFS. If you need to install an engineered floor that is less than 3/4" thick, I'd recommend the stapler instead of the nailer.

Clint

[Rich Engelhardt]

The HF one is one of the HF "gems"..

They go on sale for $99 quite often.

I've had mine for a number of years now & it's still going strong.
Admittedly, I don't use it constantly, but, it's been working right out of the case every time I've needed it so far.

[Jim Dwight]

I also have a HF flooring nailer. It will use nails or staples. I've used it to put down about 600 ft2 and I loaned it to a guy at work who did a similar amount. No issues. Good buy. I have several other HF pneumatic nailers and staplers. Some have needed oil or something but all work well and are good buys.

Staples hold better than nails. I've had to take it up in some areas when we moved walls around and nails come out a lot easier. I used nails for what I installed but next job will be staples. They are easier to find around here.

I have a stapler for the thin, 1/2 inch or less, flooring. I used it to install several hundred feet of thin oak in a former house. It is more challenging to use but works fine. It is just harder to get the staples in the right spot on the thin flooring. I don't remember the brand but will look it up if that is what you're doing.

You probably know this but you need a finish nailer too for around the edges. 18 gauge is too small, I tried, 16 works and 15 would even be a bit better.

[Ole Anderson]

Yep, the HF unit works very well. You don't need a big compressor, we just used a little Husky compressor. About 800 sf of 7/16" stranded bamboo. So hard 18 ga brads just bounced off. For us staples worked better than nails.

[Floyd Mah]

I bought a Numax nailer from Amazon that was highly rated on reviews. $105. Worked very well. Used on 500 sf of prefinished 3/4" oak flooring. Had just a few misfires. Mostly due to not hitting the trigger cap squarely.

I don't know about your experience working with wood, but I used most of my woodworking tools to get a professional result. A particularly useful tool was a small Stanley shoulder plane, #92 rabbetting plane. Its new price is about $100, the same as the nailer. The problem is that wood is a natural product and it changes shape after being processed (as in cutting, finishing, storage). If you are installing an unfinished product, you can ignore the rest of this since you can fill and finish to hide small gaps. If you are installing a finished product, gaps can't be hidden by filling and finishing. That means that you have to install each piece carefully, possibly bending slightly curved pieces to conform with its neighbors. You have to be creative. In particular, I used the rabbetting plane to shave adjacent pieces so that next piece that is laid down against them has a straight edge to be positioned against. You'll understand when you start working. All those Youtube videos of workmen smacking together flooring with the mallet and then nailing them down doesn't happen with prefinished flooring, unless you don't care about the fine details. Just for the fun of it, here's a list of some of the other tools that I ended up needing: track saw, router, table saw with sliding table, radial arm saw, router table, slotting router bit, chisels, nail gun, nail set, hand planes, long straight edge, stapler. Good luck.

[Nike Nihiser]

I had good luck with the HF nailer also. Did about 3000 sf with it.

[Jeff Duncan]

Just a couple thoughts, I have one of the Bostich nailers as well and they have a very well established reputation for being a quality tool. However, you can pretty easily just rent the nailer for when you need it. Buying and re-selling may be an option, but I would advise checking your local CL first as at least around here the market is flooded with used nailers....ie. if you buy one you may be keeping it for a while. I bought the version that does both cleats and staples, I've only used cleats as that's what I started with and still have a bunch left. They work well on oak and maple, but as someone mentioned already bamboo likes to split so maybe staples are better on it?

As far as installing hardwood all you really need is a small portable compressor, a finish nailer, a chopsaw, jigsaw, and a bottle of Tylenol. I've done both finished and pre-finished and if you buy good quality stock it goes together pretty easily. But regardless of which type it's tough on the back and knees....hence the Tylenol, (or pain killer of choice;)).

good luck,
JeffD

[Larry Edgerton]

I use a Primatech, best I have ever used, but kind of pricey. If you find one used buy it, they sell easy as most pro floor guys want them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Primatech-P250ALR-16-Gauge-Adjustable-Base-Nailer-with-Roller-/282709094504?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Very low recoil. Mine is older and has different shoes for different flooring, but the new ones are adjustable. Thousands upon thousands of feet and has never even broken a driver.

[Brad Shipton]

Great tool to rent. I thought the same as you, and now I have a $700 bostich nailer that sits on a shelf. If you are a pro, it makes sense to buy this one, but otherwise, I am not so sure.

The cheap ones have improved a lot. Years ago some of those had a lot of problems, but now they seem to have sorted out the problems.

[lowell holmes]

https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Manual-Floor-Nailer/45RW/index.html?cm_mmc=shopping-_-shopzilla-_-NA-_-NA

I agree with Brad

[Jeff Ramsey]

I bought a used Bostich on eBay (it was a package with mallet, set block, etc.) and did every new floor in our house; it gave me no trouble. You know you'll also need a brad nailer for the first few rows until the floor stapler clears the wall (unless you want to hand nail); I used 8d nails. I'd also recommend staples over cleats for the floor. And don't forget the vapor barrier. Good luck with your floors!

[Fred Falgiano]

I bought a Numax nailer from Amazon that was highly rated on reviews. $105. Worked very well. Used on 500 sf of prefinished 3/4" oak flooring.

+1 on the Numax. I used their stapler for about 2,000 sq ft of 3/4 oak and it was a champ. Ive got their Brad and finish nailers too. Not the best, but very capable and very inexpensive.

[michael langman]

I unknowingly bought the harbor freight floor nailer, new, and it has worked well for my floor installations

[Mike OMelia]

What is a cleat?

The flooring will be prefinished micro-bevel. 3/4" oak. Doing rooms, both around 200 sqft, And a walk-in closet, 100 sqft.

Edit: I will probably have a bit to learn, but I work with wood all the time (I build acoustic guitars, that's my hobby). I have a Paslode 16 Gauge finish nailer. That work ok on 3/4" oak (around edges). I am assuming I should use flooring nails (cleats) with 3/4"?

[Jeff Ramsey]

Cleats:

377018

Staples:

377019

[Curt Harms]

Great tool to rent. I thought the same as you, and now I have a $700 bostich nailer that sits on a shelf. If you are a pro, it makes sense to buy this one, but otherwise, I am not so sure.

The cheap ones have improved a lot. Years ago some of those had a lot of problems, but now they seem to have sorted out the problems.

We found it better to buy a Harbor Freight nailer. Renting makes sense if you're able to do everything you need to do in a couple days. We were putting flooring down in a dining room and living room both fully furnished so move the furniture to one side of the room, nail down the flooring in that section, move the furniture to the newly floored section, remove the carpet and floor that section etc. etc. It was just SWMBO and I and neither of us get carded at a bar so buying made sense, the project took a few days. Re cleats vs. staples we were told cleats for solid flooring, staples for manufactured. Dunno how true that is. We found that if you have critters - long haired cats in our case - wood flooring is MUCH easier to keep clean than carpeting. We also found that okocat litter is much better for wood floors than clay cat litter.

Edit: I just remembered one tip we found with the HF nailer. Don't be too thrifty with the oil. About every 100 shots I put a drop or two of oil in the air inlet. We did have a couple misfires until we figured out why.

[MARK CROWLEY]

I have had the Harbor Freight nailer of 5 years and have never had a problem. It has only used staples. Loaned it out to others and they were surprised it was a HF.
Mark

[Mike OMelia]

I'm really surprised that the HF nailer is so well liked. Usually when someone says HF, lots of folks chime in with negative opinions. Thank u for explaining the cleat. So staples will work with 3/4" oak?

[Larry Edgerton]

Not on a job my name is going on...........

[Ken Combs]

I'm really surprised that the HF nailer is so well liked. Usually when someone says HF, lots of folks chime in with negative opinions. Thank u for explaining the cleat. So staples will work with 3/4" oak?

Another vote for this one. I bought it to use and resell. As it turns out I am going to sell it but after using in on a lot more flooring than planned originally.

It runs cleats and staples, both without a nailer fault. The only issue I've had was driving either through a flooring called 'Fritztile'. I was laying bamboo over that stuff and it is so hard that some fasteners would hit it and turn up, coming through my new floor! Happened with both cleats and staples. Was using staples and bought cleats thinking they wouldn't do that. I had to resort to using my Senco finish nailer since I could drive at a steeper angle and get through the underlaying tile.

Never a problem driving into a wood or plywood subfloor.

Mine will be for sale with 3 boxes of cleats and a near full box of staples as I way overbought.

[Brad Shipton]

Curt, I am in Canada and in 2008 when I was getting mine the Princess Auto (our smaller version of Harbor Freight) fabricator in China was just figuring them out. They were having a lot of problems with jamming and returns. They quit carrying them for a few years, and now they are quite reliable from what I am told. They are at least reasonable in price, but I can't imagine getting much trying to resell somewhere like ebay. Jeff mentions a good point. I suspect there are lots that have bought the shiny yellow ones and eventually get tired of looking at them on a shelf. I would be very wary of a seller that might be a contractor, but buying one off a home handyman would likely be a great deal.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Great tool to rent. I thought the same as you, and now I have a $700 bostich nailer that sits on a shelf. If you are a pro, it makes sense to buy this one, but otherwise, I am not so sure.Maybe made snese for a pro - - back when the Bostitch was "home grown" and sold for around $700.
The Bostitch these days goes for little over $200 & I'd bet dollars to doughnuts it's made in a similar, if not the same, Chinese factory as the Harbor Freight one.


I am assuming I should use flooring nails (cleats) with 3/4"?Yes - cleats with the nice big head. Make sure you use quality Bostitch cleats though.


I use a Primatech, best I have ever used, but kind of pricey.
They don't have to be.
The 240F is a DIY version - w/the fixed base plate, not the roller one.
They can be had for $299
http://www.primatech.ca/Buy-online/Tools/

With that nice compact head, they claim to get in closer to walls by 4 1/2 inches.
Nice!
Drilling and hand nailing those last few rows was a pain on my ancient knees I could have done without.

[Larry Edgerton]

Rich, the Bostich, Senco, and Primatech are all interchangeable but far and away the best cleat is from Primatech. The material is stiffer, and the teeth are much more effective as they are sharper. In a pinch I will use the others because I have to order in the Primatechs.

[jack duren]

I used Powernail. Bought used on EBAY. Sold for $50 less than I payed for it and sold in two days..

Don't use staples....

[Pat Barry]

Not on a job my name is going on...........
Larry, you mean you wouldn't use staples? Your method is to use cleats?

[jack duren]

Are the Harbor Freight nails "barbed"?

[jack duren]

I've never heard anything good about a stapled hardwood floor...

[Rich Engelhardt]

Are the Harbor Freight nails "barbed"?Don't know - quit using HF nails eons ago. I had troubles finding them without rust.
It's amazing how much better HF stuff works - - when you feed it the right stuff..

[Larry Edgerton]

It is my opinion that for 3/4" solid hardwood the staples do not have enough holding power. I have torn out both, and staples are much more pleasant to tear out, but that kind of makes the point that they are not as strong. My business survives on my reputation, so no, I would not use staples.

Some people focus on how cheap they can do something, some focus on how well. I know a lot of installers as I do not always do it myself, and the ones that are good enough to work on my projects all use cleats. A big part of flooring is holding the pieces tight as you put on the next row. Staples do not hold bowed boards in place well enough, and the reality is all solid wood flooring is not perfect. Engineered flooring is another story, staples may do OK for that. I don't do any engineered flooring.

[Tom M King]

Only solid wood for me too. I may be the only person who still uses a manual nailer. I can control how hard I hit any cleat, and how tightly any spot can be pulled up. I had a pneumatic one for a short while, but didn't like it. Back when I built one spec house a year (with my hands-not a telephone-built and sold last one in 2007), I only put in one floor a year though. With me, you get to choose one, and it's neither fast, nor cheap.

[Larry Edgerton]

Tom, I went from a manual to a powered, back to a manual because I did not like it and then tried a Primatech, and was sold. Really, by contoling the air and getting it to the point where it dependably drives the nail, you still control the fit with the hammer. That is what I did not like about the first power nailer I tried, the timing was off is what I am thinking and it just did not give me consistantly good fits.

If you get a floor and want to try it I can send it down to you to use. Like you I am getting older and I don't do so many any more, so its just sitting on the shelf most times.

Later, Larry

PS, thanks for the tip on the pencils. I bought a box to try and then bought the rest...........

[Mike OMelia]

Maybe made snese for a pro - - back when the Bostitch was "home grown" and sold for around $700.
The Bostitch these days goes for little over $200 & I'd bet dollars to doughnuts it's made in a similar, if not the same, Chinese factory as the Harbor Freight one.

Yes - cleats with the nice big head. Make sure you use quality Bostitch cleats though.


They don't have to be.
The 240F is a DIY version - w/the fixed base plate, not the roller one.
They can be had for $299
http://www.primatech.ca/Buy-online/Tools/

With that nice compact head, they claim to get in closer to walls by 4 1/2 inches.
Nice!
Drilling and hand nailing those last few rows was a pain on my ancient knees I could have done without.

I am leaning your way. This smaller gun, is it very effective?

[Mike OMelia]

Bump it, thanks

[George Muff]

I installed 3/4" acacia on the whole ground floor of my home using the Harbor Freight nailer and Bostich cleats. It was much cheaper than renting as the work was done over an extended period of time. I have no complaints regarding performance of the nailer and would heartily recommend it. The only jam experienced was attempting to run a cleat into a nail in the sub-floor. The one I have is orange and I notice the new ones are silver. Not sure if other changes have been made. Another item from Harbor Freight which was inexpensive and came in very handy was the flooring jack. http://images.harborfreight.com/manuals/98000-98999/98787.pdf Although it looks like they may have discontinued this item.

George

[Larry Edgerton]

I am leaning your way. This smaller gun, is it very effective?


The gun is not smaller, its just a smarter design.

The air cylinder is shorter but of a larger bore, the actuator is shorter and only moves 1/4". Both of these thing lower the center of gravity and let you get closer to the wall. Effective? Ah, I think I already covered that and I own one. Not sure about the $299 one, but the design is the same without the frills it appears.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Opps - sorry Mike - I missed this.
But, yeah, Larry nailed it.
The overall design is the same, but, they do use a different power unit in the DIY and Pro versions.

I don't have one myself, but, I'm strongly considering one since I want to put hardwood floors in my dining room and living room.

They make & sell a small hand held nailer - similar in size to an 18 ga brad nailer, that has an angled head that fits the tongue, for getting in closer to the wall than the traditional flooring nailers.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-4-in-1-18-Gauge-Pneumatic-Flooring-Nailer-and-Stapler-61741/302640005?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-Pro-PLA%7c&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwKvTBRC2ARIsAL0Dgk1gOaEx-ayT0e4CteYlzDzOitjIRnpOo3reoXSgzVAHkKdnBz-fDfQaAha0EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKPgt7Gr9dgCFUbGwAod3bIFNg
If the $299 Primatech can get in even a row or two closer, without having to buy the small 18 ga type, it's worth it to me.

One of the more nasty aspects of laying a hardwood floor is crawling around, drilling and hand nailing the boards that are too close to the wall to use the big flooring nailer.
I don't know why that bugs me so much, but, it does.