Transporting a unisaw help

[Nick Mazzino]

Hello all,

I am going to be purchasing a used unisaw. I have never moved a cabinet saw before. The guy I am buying it off has the table and fence perfectly square he says. What is the best way to transport this without messing anything up?

I have an F150 and an SUV. I do not have a ramp or anything for my F150. It does not have an extended table.

Thanks for your input!

[Jamie Buxton]

When I moved my Unisaw, I left my pickup home, and rented a truck with a liftgate.

[Nick Mazzino]

That is a good idea. I will look into that for sure.

[Mike Henderson]

When I moved my Unisaw, I left my pickup home, and rented a truck with a liftgate.

That's what I do when I have to transport heavy equipment. Makes it a very easy job and saves your back. Also, a lot less risk of having the unit fall and get damaged.

Mike

[Mike Kees]

This is easy. I just desrcibed this the other day. Use your pickup. Back up to the saw with the tailgate down . You will need one person to help tip the saw onto the tailgate and continue to rotate until it ends up upside down in your truck. I usually remove the fence first and put an old piece of carpet or cardboard under the saw. Once it is in I place one rachet strap around the back of the saw cabinet and connect it to the front of the truck box. Then take a second rachet strap and wrap it around the front of the saw and tie it in to the back of the truck box. The fence and any other pieces fit around the saw. It will ride like a dream this way. Good luck,Mike.

[Dave Cav]

This is easy. I just desrcibed this the other day. Use your pickup. Back up to the saw with the tailgate down . You will need one person to help tip the saw onto the tailgate and continue to rotate until it ends up upside down in your truck. I usually remove the fence first and put an old piece of carpet or cardboard under the saw. Once it is in I place one rachet strap around the back of the saw cabinet and connect it to the front of the truck box. Then take a second rachet strap and wrap it around the front of the saw and tie it in to the back of the truck box. The fence and any other pieces fit around the saw. It will ride like a dream this way. Good luck,Mike.

This is the easiest way to do it. It can be a one person job, but easier with two. I have moved Unisaws and HD shapers this way.

I would take the squarness issue with a grain of salt. Even moving it "conventionally" with a liftgate truck could knock it out of square depending on the handling. However, a Unisaw is VERY easy to square up. Loosen the four bolts holding the cast iron top to the cabinet and use your favorite method of squaring, tighten back down, done. The guts (arbor, trunnions, motor, etc) are attached to the cabinet so you're only moving the C.I. top.

[Matt Day]

As said, everybody’s definition of “perfectly aligned” is different. I would t worry about that and plan to fully tune it up and align it when you get it in place.

The flip is the easiest safest way to move a Uni. I loaded and unloaded solo from my trailer with no problem. Remove the fence first as well as extension wings. Setting up machinery is part of using it, don’t be skerd.

[Ted Derryberry]

If it's a Uni-fence that's easy to adjust also. Mine has a 52" rip capacity so there's no flipping it. I put it on a dolly and used ramps onto and off of my relatively low trailer. It was a little tricking coming off the trailer, but no damage or injury. The extension table and legs probably help with getting it on dollys. I pick up the table end get those legs on a dolly and then I pick up the saw end and put it on a dolly. With the extension table already up it's easier to get the saw high enough.

[Curt Harms]

When I moved my G1023 to the basement, I removed the top (wings were already off) and motor. Easy Peasy. As Dave says, cabinet saws are pretty easy to tune. The only thing to be aware of is to keep track of any spacers between the cabinet and top.

[Nick Mazzino]

Thank you everyone for your help!

I will be potentially picking up the saw tomorrow afternoon. I am just getting into woodworking and trying to set up my shop, so I am looking forward to it! The saw seems to be a good deal. What are your thoughts?

https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/tls/d/delta-unisaw/6460816419.html

[Frankie Hunt]

I find that temporarily removing the tail gate is helpful. Put something on the edge of the bed to avoid scratching anything. I use a mudflap from a semi that I picked up from the side of the road. A cardboard box folded flat or a doubled up moving blanket would suffice too.

The lower your pickup bed is, the better.

Like mentioned in posts above, lean the saw over and flip it up onto the bed, then continue on over until its upside-down.

[Cary Falk]

I wouldn't trust anybody's "perfect". It could get thrown out of wack with the move. Remove the fence. Back the truck up to it and flip it onto it's top. Realign it when you get it home.

[Patrick Kane]

Thank you everyone for your help!

I will be potentially picking up the saw tomorrow afternoon. I am just getting into woodworking and trying to set up my shop, so I am looking forward to it! The saw seems to be a good deal. What are your thoughts?

https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/tls/d/delta-unisaw/6460816419.html


Personally, i wouldnt buy that machine. It has an ancient and inferior fence design, and it is under powered. I think some people use a jetlock fence without complaint, but they are in the minority. Second, if you own a unisaw, then you want atleast a 3hp motor. I know the 40s/50s bullet motors punched above their weight class, but this motor is new and should be 3hp. I know this is probably a drive for you, but im only using it as an example of what you really need to look for

https://columbus.craigslist.org/tld/d/delta-10-unisaw-table-saw/6463937075.html

Notice how it has a proper fence, 3hp motor, and it isnt missing the motor cover and front plate. It also has a high quality magnetic starter instead of a $15 switch. If you feel good about the original saw and are jonesing for one right this second, then go get it. Otherwise, i think your future would be better served by waiting for something similar to what i posted. Or, drive and get the one i posted!

[Bob Vaughan]

One is rather easy to pack. Two get a little tight, but do-able.

376910

[Ted Derryberry]

I have to agree with Patrick. For $800 you should get a decent fence (Uni-Fence or Beisemeyer) and a front plate. As for the motor, I just retired a 1.5 HP that I used for nearly 8 years without a problem. It depends on what you want to do with it. For sheet goods and lumber up to 3/4" and even 1.5" it shouldn't be a problem. However, you should get it cheaper because of the undersized motor. The fact that the table is surface ground is enticing, mine isn't exactly flat, but close enough. I would check it though to be sure it really is flat if you're paying a premium for that. Also make sure the miter slots aren't too shallow from over grinding the surface. It would suck not to be able to use standard miter bars, jigs, etc. The motor cover wouldn't bother me, mine didn't have one either and I built one out of plywood so I could use dust collection.

[Ray Newman]

Pat Kane mentioned motor size. A 1 1/2 HP does seem to be underpowered for that class of saw.

In 1987, I replaced a Delta 1 3/4 HP contractors saw with a 3 HP Uni-saw. If memory serves me, at that time I had a choice of either a 3 or 5 HP Uni-saw.

Also agree that the Uni-saw in the ad posted by Pat Kane is a better saw.

[Mike Wilkins]

If you have a set of hand trucks, all you should need is a trailer to tow behind your truck. That is how I took delivery of a 1000# sliding table saw I picked up at the freight terminal. Since it came in 2 containers, I jacked up the pallet and placed in on a couple of furniture dollies. These are not very expensive, great for moving, and cheap enough from Harbor Freight that if they are destroyed during the move it is not a big loss.
Unisaws are not that heavy; if you can get the assistance of a friend with a strong back, you can load it onto the bed of your truck with a carefully planned lift, then strap it down.
You will still need to check the alignment after getting it set up in your shop; recommended after a move anyway.

[Ted Derryberry]

Apparently there is a market for cabinet saws with smaller motors. http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/pm1000-1-3-4hp-1ph-52-rip-w-accu-fence-system/1791001K It just depends on what you want to do with it. Resale would also be a consideration though. Once a friend of mine bought a 6 cylinder pickup. He couldn't give it away when he was ready to trade.

[Matt Day]

I’d pass on the $800 Uni from Akron. For one thing I personally think it’s ugly, but it’s also missing the dust door, motor cover, and i prefer a Biesemeyer type fence. Also, he said the top was ground flat, I wonder how much material he took off, and more importantly did the miter slots get ground down proportionally? If not miter bats won’t be flush with the top.

As for motor size, I have a 1.5 hp motor from 1955 in my saw now. It’ll cut through anything but on 2”+ stuff feed rate has to slow down. The motor in this particular saw looks newer, so it’s probably not the same as my 1.5.

The one Patrick mentioned in Columbus looks like a better deal.

[Rick Potter]

Where I live that saw would be sold quickly at that price. Your area may differ. What does it cost to machine a top? The Jet Lock fence is old school but very serviceable.

I had a '70's 1 1/2HP Unisaw, and later upgraded to a 3HP. I couldn't tell the difference in power, but I normally cut nothing thicker than 2".

My advice to you as a newbie would be to never show an ad for something your are PLANNING to buy. If it is deal, you may find it sold when you finally arrive. I lost an antique car that way when asking advice on what people thought of it.

[Roger Marty]

Apparently there is a market for cabinet saws with smaller motors. http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/pm1000-1-3-4hp-1ph-52-rip-w-accu-fence-system/1791001K It just depends on what you want to do with it. Resale would also be a consideration though. Once a friend of mine bought a 6 cylinder pickup. He couldn't give it away when he was ready to trade.

I bought the SawStop PCS 1.5. It does everything I want it to do and I've not noticed the 1.5hp being a limitation for me. In using it for a year, I've perhaps notice it bog down one or two times. But I also have *only* used a 50t combo blade even when ripping 8/4 maple.

I don't have 220V in my very-small shop and didn't see the need to add it.

[Charlie Velasquez]

I had helped move three tablesaws before moving my own. The three did not remove or otherwise brace the 40-50 pound motor before moving. Two survived the move fine. One ended up with a broken motor bracket. .I figured 1 out of 3 odds was too high for me, and parts are hard to find. I removed the wings, top, and motor, taking a vhs video of myself as it came apart. Made cleaning and lubing easier, and disassembly and assembly made it more understandable when I aligned it and later worked on general maintenance.YMMV.

[Mark Wooden]

Nothing wrong with a Jetlock fence or a 1.5 hp motor; I have a Uni set up like that so it's easy to move around and it's quiet and very accurate. No, it doesn't have the balz of my 5 hp direct drive Oliver 270D, but it doesn't rip 8/4 hardwood all day either. You have to define your own needs there....
But if the current, or previous, owner had the top ground-take a pass. While it looks pretty and cool, every accessory that uses the mitre slots won't fit-they'll be too thick and be proud of the top unless you get them ground also. That saw isn't worth the asking price if it's been ground, it would need a replacement table IMO. The other one shown would be a better buy, provided it runs as advertised.

[Patrick Kane]

I posted the other saw not as evidence that the original saw is crap--it isn't--but I used it as an evidence the original saw is overpriced. For $800-900, you should get a fully functioning single phase unisaw that is 10-20 years old.

If you don't mind a project and are up to the task, I bet you can get some of these project saws cheaper than list price.

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/d/powermatic-and-delta-table-saw/6464434097.html

I'm unfamiliar with working on 66's, but the unisaw without a motor and without a fence for $150-200, could be a good deal. New 3hp single phase baldor is around $425(there is a very specific motor mount for the unisaw), multitude of new and used fences out there to be had for $200-300, and throw in another $25 to replace the arbor bearing. You will come in at or slightly above your current budget and have a first class restored saw. Might be better off to buy the one with a fence and no motor, especially if it has a unifence. Really is pretty simple to swap a motor, wire a switch, and swap the arbor bearing.

Agreed, if you are experienced and know what you want, don't start a thread online. In this case, I think the group stopped this guy from over paying for a pig with lipstick.

[Nick Mazzino]

Thank you everyone for your help. I ended up buying the single phase unisaw that Pat recommended (thanks for that find!)

It is a 36-955 single phase with a biesemeyer fence and extension table. Overall, the saw is in great shape and works well. the far end of the extension table is popping up a bit, but other than that nothing appears to be wrong.

The gentlemen also had a 6" Delta jointer model 37-220 that was in like new condition.

I ended up getting the unisaw jointer, and 5 4ft long pipe clamps for 1100$. I am very happy with the deal I got.
What do you guys think?

[Matt Day]

Doesn’t really matter what we think, glad you’re happy!