To spline or not to spline

[Yonak Hawkins]

I'm a spline guy, although I'm thinking I may be using splines where they are not really necessary. I spline almost all my edge-to-edge glue-ups.

I'm making some pretty large drawers. They will be approx. 29-1/2" X 27-1/2" X 10-1/4" deep. The splines, if used, would be for edge-gluing as I'm having to glue up narrower boards to get to my 10-1/4" drawer depth.

I am using ash which will be 19/32" thick. There will be no exposed ends. I'll use Tite-Bond regular. I could use Tite-Bond II, however, if it's better for this application. The drawers will be hung on slides attached to the drawer sides. I plan to dovetail the corners using router and jig.

Is it necessary to use splines to strengthen the drawer sides or would simple butt joints be adequate ?

[John TenEyck]

Butt joints will be plenty strong, as they are for most edge to edge joints.

John

[Charles Wiggins]

Sounds like overkill to me, especially with a larger pore wood like ash, unless your edges are not jointed properly.

[Dave Zellers]

I’m a spline guy too but definitely not needed for this application. But do pay attention that you have a nice fit on the edges of the boards being glued.

This is a perfect job for biscuits if you wanted to do that.

[Warren Lake]

butt joints for that Old guy was taught all their mouldings were clamped on with splines some had a cut for glue so when glued it didnt get past the small cut and then no glue clean up from squeeze out.

[Lee Schierer]

For edge grain to edge grain joints, other than assisting with alignment I don't think that the extra work of a properly fitted spline would be worth the effort as the spline doesn't add much if any strength.

[Robert Engel]

A lot of extra work for little benefit if the purpose is alignment.

If the purpose is strength, even more unnecessary. No stronger than edge to edge.

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Lee...the glue joint is going to be stronger than the wood. If you are not having challenges with the glue-ups staying flat in the clamps, splines can help with alignment, but so can cauls and it eliminates the extra work of milling the slots for the splines, leaving more time for other things.

The glue type isn't so important here, BTW. Any of the three major Titebond formulas, for example, will do the job just fine. The major difference as you progress between them is water/moisture resistance. For drawers like you are building, I doubt they are going to get submerged, although if for a moisture prone area, such as a kitchen or bathroom, moving to Titebond II or Titebond III might be worth considering for long-term confidence. Personally, I only use Titebond III since it covers all bases. I also prefer the slightly darker color for the species I mostly work with.

[Edwin Santos]

Splines add glue surface area therefore they definitely add strength.
But in your case you don't need it so don't do it.
Unless you enjoy splining.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Butt joint is good enough with some basic care with the gluing.

On the other hand, spline will not be bad and can be more visually appealing in some situations.

[Yonak Hawkins]

Thanks for everyone's advice. I glued up today without splines.