Circular saw recommendations

[Jason Victory]

My old saw just breathed his last, and I need a new one.

I build a lot of tables about 1 a month for clients and I use my circular saw to straight line cut the top edges after glue up. That is 99.9% of what I use it for.

Depths I cut are anywhere from 8/4 to 4/4; so rather thick material.

I would really love a track saw but really not wanting to spend that kind of money right now as I'm trying to save up for a domino. I have some of the ridgid Gen5x tools/batteries; would anyone recommend going with the cordless ridgid saw?

Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

[Jamie Buxton]

If you're mostly working in a shop, not on-site, I'd stick to a corded saw. Less expensive to start, and no new to replace batteries when they eventually wear out. If you're working on a construction site, the cordless means you have power without searching for an outlet and extension cords.

A corded saw guided by a straightedge does pretty much what a track saw does at 20% of the cost. There are some downsides, but if budget is a big consideration, stay with it.

[andy bessette]

Forget the Domino--get the track saw.

[Adam Cloud]

I just bought a new circ saw a couple months ago. I wish I would have spent more time researching. I did get one with a magnesium base. This gives the base a wider more square edge. This is useful when using a straightedge like Jamie mentioned. I'm glad I paid a little extra for this feature. The second key feature is an automatic brake. I didn't get this and wish I had. I didn't think it was worth the extra cost, but I now know it is.

[Nike Nihiser]

I just bought one a few months ago. It's a Makita and was rated well. Don't remember model #, I'm not in shop right now. I like it. Research this well. some have flimsy, unstable sole plates. Which one did you get Adam Cloud?

[lowell holmes]

My most recent sidewinder saw is a corded Dewalt. It came from Lowe or Home Depot. I don't remember which.
They both carry them.

My old saw disappeared in the Harvey flood.

[David Eisenhauer]

After 30-40 years of using a (heavy, powerful) geared saw for heavy duty use, I swapped out for a lighter Makita a couple of years ago and do not regret it one bit. Admittedly, I am not using the saw all day-every day as I was when I carpentered for a living, but the Makita serves my home shop needs just great. Well balanced, not anywhere near as heavy and powerful enough for anything I have tried, including long rips on timber where the blade is buried the entire 8' length of cut (for finish up with a hand saw). No undue heating of the motor.

[Marshall Harrison]

I have a 35 year old Craftsman that I inherited from my Dad after he passed away. But mostly I use an 18V Ryobi that works well for my needs. I also have his Cratsman drill that complements my Ryobi hand drills.
I don't know how well the newer stuff will hold up but the older Craftsman is pretty good.

[Jim Dwight]

I have an older Milwaukee that I use occasionally and like. I also have an older Ryobi cordless I use a bit more. But it's depth of cut may not be enough for your uses, it won't quite go through 1.5 inch wood. There are newer models, however, up to 7.25 inch blades. With lithium ion batteries, preferably 4 amp hour, I think it would do what you describe.

You'll have to answer which you need more but a track saw is not really like a circular saw plus straight edge. I used the latter for years and it works fine for rough cuts but not well at all for finish cuts. Track saws make cuts every bit as good as a table saw and every bit as accurately. I tried better blades on my circular saw but it still was not like my track saw. But if a fairly rough cut is OK for your uses, a Domino might be more important. I don't have one, I make mortise and tenon joints with my hollow chisel mortise or plunge router. But neither is as quick and handy as I suspect a domino would be.

[Bruce Wrenn]

The top of the heap DeWalt is my first choice. It can be adjusted so blade is parallel to the edge of the base, which is very handy when using a guide. Not a light weight though. Check out a couple pawn shops for used ones. I have both yellow ( DeWalt,) and black (B&D Industrial) versions. Same saw, just different colors.

[Norman Pirollo]

Went through the same decision making episode a few months ago after my 25 yr. old circular saw smoked and died. Bought a high end Makita 5007MGA with electric brake. It is corded because I simply don't want to worry about the lifespan of batteries. It is likely the last circular saw I will ever purchase and the brake was the deal clincher. Very solid and works exceptionally well.

Norman

[Jason Victory]

Thanks guys!

Is a worm drive worth the extra $ ?

[Jamie Buxton]

Thanks guys!

Is a worm drive worth the extra $ ?

I use a sidewinder, and find a worm-drive awkward. I think that for emulating a track saw, the sidewinder would be easier to keep tight to the straightedge.

[David Eisenhauer]

Worm drives are powerful and may very well outlast your need of them, but,,,,,,,,,,,,, they are heavy and cost quite a lot. It is your call as to whether you need the extra power. I used one for years for commercial purposes and it worked best when cutting double thickness 3/4" ply wood for concrete form construction and 2x4/4/4 braces all day without overheating. I finally let it go a couple of years ago to lighten the load and have not missed it at all so far. Your call, but may be better finding a used one or pawn shop special to lower the cost if you really want one.

[Jason Victory]

Anyone have any experience or knowledge on the triton track saw? Seems like a cheaper option to the Festool but can’t seem to find many reviews.

[julian abram]

Thanks guys!

Is a worm drive worth the extra $ ?

No. For your use you'll spend extra and carry that extra weigh for no benefit. Get a sidewinder Makita, it will last almost forever without toting that extra weight and bulk.

[Jamie Buxton]

Anyone have any experience or knowledge on the triton track saw? Seems like a cheaper option to the Festool but can’t seem to find many reviews.

If you're actually going to buy a tracksaw, think ahead about how you'd be using it. Among other tasks, I use mine to break down sheets of plywood. To do this, the track must be over eight feet long. I did a quick scan of the Triton product, and didn't see a long track offered. The need for an eight foot track does ratchet up the cost of a true track saw. You can make your own eight foot straightedge for only a few bucks, and buy a good sidewinder like the ones Bruce suggests, and be in business for much much less than a true track saw.

To make your own straightedge, just use 6-8 inches of the edge of a sheet of plywood. The factory edge is generally quite straight. You can test a potential straightedge. Put it down on something you can draw on. Draw a line guided by the straightedge. Now flip the straightedge over so the other face is down. Compare the drawn line to the straightedge. The difference between the two is twice the error in the staightedge. If it is small enough for you, you're done. If it is too big, use a handplane to trim the high spots. Or just try another factory edge. In either case, you should be able to come up with a straightedge for only a few bucks. You might even have the plywood hanging around now.

[andy bessette]

Get the Festool. You'll wish you had bought it sooner.

[Rich Aldrich]

About 8 years ago, I bought a Makita 5007 MGA circular saw and a Eureka Zone straight edge guide system for breaking down plywood for cabinets. The circular saw is great and has a brake. It is light and comfortable to handle.

I built a cart for cutting so that I can move it to the shelf where I store sheet goods on their sided on a shelf at about 3 feet off the floor. Alone, I can tip the plywood on to the cart. The table of the cart is 6"wide strips of plywood standing on edge and locked together so they form a checker board. These strips of plywood are sacrificial. I lay the plywood sheet on the cart, lay out the cuts, set up the straight edge guide and make the cut. Typically, I can get the panels square within a 32nd. I already give up a lot of space to store the sheets of plywood and I didnt want to give up another 8 feet plus of wall space for a panel saw.

I have about $425 total wrapped up in this system (saw and guide), but it doesn't take up a lot of floor space or wall space. There is an ongoing cost for the straight edge guide anti-chip edges but it hasnt been too bad.

I am sure there are nicer set ups out there, but I would do this again if I was faced with the same situation.

[lowell holmes]

I can't get over the plastic housings on power tools these days.
My original Dewalt had a metal housing. The stuff you can get these days is plastic. Are the plastic housings supposed to keep
you from being shocked, or just to save on manufacturing costs?

My current saw is lighter than the first one though.

[Ken Kortge]

Take a look at Eurekazone.com and see if their circular saw + guide rail system which provide very accurate and clean cuts would meet 99.9% of your needs. For cutting 48" lengths I recommend use of the 64" guide rail to provide a starting pad.

Their smart base will fit on most circular saws, but the corded Makita circular saws seem to be the most popular. You could buy the saw now, and then add the smart base and guide rails later, as finances allow.

Given that the track and smart base affect depth of cut, watch to make sure your cut depth needs would be met.

[lowell holmes]

A 1x4 and c-clamps work for me. I made a plywood straight edge one time also. It may still be around.

[Curt Harms]

I just bought a new circ saw a couple months ago. I wish I would have spent more time researching. I did get one with a magnesium base. This gives the base a wider more square edge. This is useful when using a straightedge like Jamie mentioned. I'm glad I paid a little extra for this feature. The second key feature is an automatic brake. I didn't get this and wish I had. I didn't think it was worth the extra cost, but I now know it is.

In addition to the cast base, see if there's a way to adjust the blade parallel to the edge of the base. If the blade is running truly parallel to the edge of the base that runs against the guide, the cut quality should be better.

[Dan Rude]

Anyone have any experience or knowledge on the triton track saw? Seems like a cheaper option to the Festool but can’t seem to find many reviews.
I have not used it, but Menards unveiled their version today. Priced at $177 after rebate. Looks a lot like the Triton. Dan https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools-accessories/power-saws-accessories/masterforce-reg-6-1-2-plunge-cut-track-saw-kit-with-110-track/2410706/p-1489990860634.htm?utm_campaign=4A-2018&utm_content=11%-Rebate-Sale&utm_source=flipp&utm_medium=flyer_hosted (https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools-accessories/power-saws-accessories/masterforce-reg-6-1-2-plunge-cut-track-saw-kit-with-110-track/2410706/p-1489990860634.htm?utm_campaign=4A-2018&utm_content=11%-Rebate-Sale&utm_source=flipp&utm_medium=flyer_hosted)

[lowell holmes]

Well Jason,

After all of these responses, have you made up your mind.

I know I couldn't easily decide.

My new Dewalt side winder has a plastic housing and a formed steel black base. I think it is ugly and I really don't like the feel of the saw.

My old saw had a metal housing and felt like a tool when I used it.

I suspect there are other old dogs out there that share my sentiments. When I was younger, I disregarded old dogs comments. So now it is payback time.
I feel blessed to have pain free old age though. :)

My new saw cuts quite well.

[Drew Foster33]

Worm drive saws spin the blade at a lower speed than their smaller, side drive, brethren, that extra torque means they can hog out a lot of material easily and work all day long.

But that slower speed also has an impact on cut finish, you'll get a better finish with the higher blade speed of a side drive circular saw.

Unless you're planning on using it for major framing and other construction projects, there's really no need for a worm drive saw.