Which Handtools to complement Power Tools?

[Philipp Jaindl]

Greetings,

So as the Title says, Which are your most used/favorite Handtools to complement the Powertools?

I'm curious which Handtools the more experienced Folks consider really handy to have, and maybe pick up a few tools that i havent thought about. Since sometimes it is easier and faster to just use a Handtool instead of setting up a jig.

I apologize if this is the wrong part of the forum for this, didnt really know where to put it.

Regards Philipp

[Matt Day]

I think the first and most obvious is hand planes. For fitting a drawer or removing just a hair they’re very handy. They need to be quality planes and set up properly and be sharp though, and are a slippery slope!

A good set of sharp chisels is another one.

[Roger Marty]

Greetings,

So as the Title says, Which are your most used/favorite Handtools to complement the Powertools?

I'm curious which Handtools the more experienced Folks consider really handy to have, and maybe pick up a few tools that i havent thought about. Since sometimes it is easier and faster to just use a Handtool instead of setting up a jig.

I apologize if this is the wrong part of the forum for this, didnt really know where to put it.

Regards Philipp


Sharp chisels. No. 4 Block Plane. A smaller plane for edge grain (No. 61 is what I use).

Japanese pull saw.

I also get good mileage out of a small pull saw with a cutting guide.

[Rod Sheridan]

For me, the first hand tools required are measuring, layout and marking devices.

For me that includes steel rules, mechanical pencils, marking knives and small squares such as a try square and a couple of 6 inch machinist squares (one Imperial, one Metric).

After that I use chisels, a #3 and #7 plane as well as block and shoulder plane and a router plane................Regards, Rod.

[Steve Eure]

I have to agree with Rod on this one. Precise measuring tools are a must in my shop. Now if I could just figure out how to use them correctly.

[David Eisenhauer]

To agree with the others, just as a minimal starter kit so to speak - a small (6"-12"
adjustable type very handy
) quality metal square, a marking knife, a marking gauge (single or combo as preferred), a 1/4" and 1/2" bench chisel each, a #3 or #4 sized smoothing plane, the sharpening kit to maintain the chisels and plane and some type of backsaw around 12"-14" long (give or take) and filed either crosscut or rip, rip maybe a little more preferred, but either one.

[Marty Schlosser]

I'd add a router plane, which is so helpful when fine-tuning tenons or cleaning up the bottom of rabbets or dado'd grooves.

As well, a few hand saws: a Veritas double-edged flush cutting handsaw (http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32934&cat=1,42884,32928,32934) and a crosscut handsaw similar to this one: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=46886&cat=1,42884,63338. As far as the last saw is concerned, you should be able to purchase a gently used one at any flea market and get it sharpened by most saw sharpening service centres.

[Bill Dindner]

A block plane, 2 chisels 3/4” and 1/4”, SpokeShave, Cabinet Rasp, Flush trim Saw. Plus you need to sharpen your tools that need sharpening

im of assuming you have a full complement of measuring tools and a well equipped power tool shop with the ability to do all major woodworking tasks to include Joinery (Router, Domino, Mortiser), milling, dimensioning, turnings and curves.

[Phil Mueller]

“Check the archives - there are 3,000,000+ sharpening threads at last count - please don't start another. :D“

Thank you Fred!

[Ben Rivel]

Pick up the book Hybrid Woodworking. Covers this very topic.

[John K Jordan]

Greetings,

So as the Title says, Which are your most used/favorite Handtools to complement the Powertools?

I'm curious which Handtools the more experienced Folks consider really handy to have, and maybe pick up a few tools that i havent thought about. Since sometimes it is easier and faster to just use a Handtool instead of setting up a jig.


Philipp,

I might have missed it but you might mention what kind of woodworking you are interested in - cabinets, fine furniture, ok furniture, kids toys, quick things for the house and barn, carpentry, woodturning, ... Some hand tools are valuable for some uses but perhaps not for others.

For nearly any type of woodworking I suggest chisels. The type and quality depends again on the type of work done. I also use gimlets and awls and various japanese saws when doing various things with wood.

JKJ

[Tom Trees]

A selection of hand planes is essential for accuracy , like doing things like shooting end grain on a compontnts like drawer parts
for that piston fit drawer expierence ...Look up Rob Cosman or Phil Lowe etc
Forget sanding, banish it from your sight! learn the influence of the cap iron in a straight iron blade... .
Most importantly !
You should not operate a tablesaw without understanding the hand plane and having one at hand

[Frederick Skelly]

Pick up the book Hybrid Woodworking. Covers this very topic.

Off-topic: Ben, I didn't find that book to be of much value to me. Maybe I missed something. What did you learn from that book that you got value out of? Give me some idea and I'll go re-read those parts.
Thanks man.
-Fred

[Bob Leistner]

Really, it should be the other way around. Your power tools should compliment your hand tools.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Greetings,

So as the Title says, Which are your most used/favorite Handtools to complement the Powertools?

I'm curious which Handtools the more experienced Folks consider really handy to have, and maybe pick up a few tools that i havent thought about. Since sometimes it is easier and faster to just use a Handtool instead of setting up a jig.

I apologize if this is the wrong part of the forum for this, didnt really know where to put it.

Regards Philipp

...followed by hammer and a couple of sharpen chisels.

Regards,

[Jim Becker]

A low-angle block plane, sharp chisels and my hold-fasts get very frequent use in my primarily power-tool shop. I also invested in a a couple of quality hand-saws (dovetail and crosscut) and they as well as a few other hand planes get used, too. All of these things are used for both refining workpieces as well as performing certain cuts and operations that are easier, more precise and/or safer than using a power tool.

[Marshall Harrison]

Pick up the book Hybrid Woodworking. Covers this very topic.

Ordered this book yesterday and it should arrive tomorrow.

I did an inventory of my tools today since I have been away for several years. I want to put together a hybrid shop.

[Derek Cohen]

I am a predominantly hand tool user who has power tools toget me to the stage where I can do shaping, joinery and detail work with hand tools. The predominantly power tool user is likely to use hand tools to fine tune joints and joinery, rather than create them. With this in mind ...

Chisels (1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1") for squaring up corners cut by a router, and fine tuning joints.

Block plane for chamfering.

Side rabbet plane for widening grooves and dados.

Router plane for levelling floors of hinge mortices, and tuning tenon cheeks.

Smoothing plane (#4) for levelling faces.

3/4" shoulder plane to adjust rebates.

Shooting board and plane (low angle is best, such as a LA Jack) for fitting drawer fronts.

Cabinet (card) scrapers .... such wonderful tools!

Japanese crosscut saw (small) for fine cuts in joints and tuning mitres of mouldings.

Hammer for chisels, dead blow for joinery, etc.

A bench where one can use hand tools (complete with hold downs, face- and end vise).

Marking tools are also part of the predominant power user: cutting gauge, squares, knives, etc.

For my hand tool work I have considerably more than the above. :eek: ... and they would replace many of the power tools used. The ones mentioned here are those I work see as helpful for a power user.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Edit to add a PS: I believe that hand and power tools are essential for all woodworking. The mindset should not be one or the other, but use of both. There are many ways to do the work and no one is "better" than the other. Some may be more efficient, though. The grunt work that is done by machines and the speed than can be done with a handtool for one-off items.

[Philipp Jaindl]

Sorry i forgot to mention im an apprentice at a woodworking school, we got a fully equiped machine shop aswell as the standard handtools(chisels, measuring tools, Frame saws etc).

I own a set of Ashley Iles chisels, Starett combination square, dozuki, Marking knife&gauge, Stanley 4 1/2, wooden Jack & scrubplane, handrouter ,and a couple tools im forgetting, myself.
We never use the handplanes at work though, and being Austrian Metall planes are almost impossible to get.

Blockplanes i didnt think about, what do all of you use them for? And which do you recommend on a budget? Not gonna spend 150 bucks on it.

[Tom Trees]

A nice, cheap good old Stanley 5 1/2... because you need another plane or double iron, for the cap iron effect.
Was going to say low angle for end grain, but 150 bucks aint much, when talkin end grain.
Tom

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Philipp

Try and find a vintage (NOT new) Stanley #60 1/2 block plane. These can be had quite cheaply. Give the blade a 30 degree bevel. Use it to chamfer edges, and clean up here-and-there. Try also to get a #3 (my favourite) or #4 Stanley smoothing plane (also vintage and NEVER new). Learn to use it, then take it to work. In experienced hands, hand planes will save time!

Edit: Here is a #60 1/2 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Stanley-No-60-1-2-low-angle-adjustable-throat-block-plane/173103074634?hash=item284dbf4d4a:g:W4gAAOSwv~1aSw1 g) for sale.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Henderson]

The 60 1/2 is an excellent block plane. However, my favorite is the 65 with the knuckle joint cap. Whatever block plane you get, get a modern iron for it, such as the LV PM-V11. Except for how the plane fits into your hand, the blade makes the block plane.

Also, I'd recommend you sharpen to a 25 degree bevel. If that doesn't hold up, you can always put a secondary bevel at a higher angle, such as 30 degrees. But you can't put a 25 degree secondary bevel on a 30 degree primary bevel.

Mike

[Derek Cohen]

Mike, the reason I suggested 30 degrees fot the #60 1/2 is that a higher cutting angle is preferred in a plane that is more likely going to be used on chamfering edges and trimming face grain than in planing end grain. For end grain, the better plane is a low angle jack.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Randy Heinemann]

I am primarily a power tool woodworker who has realized, over time, that sometimes hand tools can be a better choice for finish work.

I own some handplanes - 2 block planes (one metal and one wood), a tiny "violin maker's plane" (sort of like a miniature block plane) for very small finish work and chamfering, a smoothing plane, and a jointer plane (from long ago which I don't use very much anymore).

I own a spokeshave for shaping sometimes, a cabinet scraper, and some card scrapers.

I own chisels, one Japanese chisel excellent for paring, some standard chisels.

I don't own any hand saws like dovetail saws; only a flush cut saw and one other low quality saw I sometimes use to rough cut small pieces before working on them.

These hand tools work for me as support for my work with my table saw, bandsaw, routers/router table, sanders, and lathe. What you buy depends, to some degree on what work you most often do. If you frequent hand cut dovetails, you will need a good dovetail saw and some great chisels. Most importantly, to make planes and chisels function well and without frustration, they need to be sharp which requires acquiring some sharpening equipment and skills. It has taken me a long time to find my preferred method of sharpening and realize that my chisels and planes weren't really sharp. Sharpening scrapers requires some additional skills and tools. It's not that sharpening is extremely hard, but getting good at it and getting your tools to the point that only ongoing maintenance is required is a bit time consuming at first.

I would also recommend, after experience with cheaper chisels and planes, it pays to buy high quality planes and chisels if you want to get the most out of those types of tools - meaning Lie-Nielsen or Lee Valley for planes and careful research and selection of chisels (many more choices for good quality chisels).

[Philipp Jaindl]

There kinda lies the Problem, getting any Stanley/Record or any old metal Planes is just about impossible here and shipping from the UK or US costs like 30 to 40€. Which makes that 25 or 30 $ Blockplane alot less attractive and if i have to buy a modern iron for it too then i might aswell buy a Brand new Veritas or LN.

I didnt wanna spend that much to be honest, it would only pay off if i bought at least 1 or 2 more tools along with the Blockplane from the same seller otherwise shipping just doesnt pay off.

As for saws i really prefer Framesaws over Panelsaws, just more comfortable and versatile for me. Traditionally we never had the Panel-, Carcass, Tennonsaws etc because we didnt need them the Framesaw depending on the blade in it does everything just fine if you know how to set it up and use it.

[David Bassett]

There kinda lies the Problem, getting any Stanley/Record or any old metal Planes is just about impossible here and shipping from the UK or US costs like 30 to 40€. ...

Where are you? As you point out, that has a big effect on what should be suggested. We usually assume US, unless you say or are very well known (e.g. Derek in Australia.)

BTW- You can add (general) location to your profile and it will show up in all your post, solving this issue once & for all.

[Philipp Jaindl]

Where are you? As you point out, that has a big effect on what should be suggested. We usually assume US, unless you say or are very well known (e.g. Derek in Australia.)

BTW- You can add (general) location to your profile and it will show up in all your post, solving this issue once & for all.

Ah ok, i have done that, I'm in Austria btw which i have wrote before but probably went under.

[Jim Becker]

I gotta imagine there are woodworking retailers in Austria or nearby that carry typical hand tools...and a block plane is pretty darn common. You may be able to find on in whatever local "home center" type store that sells tools is, too. Even an inexpensive, mass market block plane can be tuned up and made serviceable with some effort. But investing in a good one will pay off in the long run.

[David Bassett]

Ah ok, i have done that, I'm in Austria btw which i have wrote before but probably went under.

Have you tried DIctum (https://www.dictum.com/en/tools/woodworking-metalworking/planes) in Germany? They have a really good rep, but most of in the US don't have much experience with them.

[Ben Rivel]

Off-topic: Ben, I didn't find that book to be of much value to me. Maybe I missed something. What did you learn from that book that you got value out of? Give me some idea and I'll go re-read those parts.
Thanks man.
-Fred
Not much for me either, but thats because I have followed The Wood Whisperer for years and learned everything he had to say in that book from his videos and the world of other woodworking information sources out there. That said, if one is new to the craft and asking such a question, I think there is a lot in that book that is good to be introduced too early on.

[Frederick Skelly]

Not much for me either, but thats because I have followed The Wood Whisperer for years and learned everything he had to say in that book from his videos and the world of other woodworking information sources out there. That said, if one is new to the craft and asking such a question, I think there is a lot in that book that is good to be introduced too early on.

Ok. Thanks Ben!
Fred

[Neil Gaskin]

All of them....

[Philipp Jaindl]

Have you tried DIctum (https://www.dictum.com/en/tools/woodworking-metalworking/planes) in Germany? They have a really good rep, but most of in the US don't have much experience with them.

Yes i have ordered multiple times from them so far without any problems.


I gotta imagine there are woodworking retailers in Austria or nearby that carry typical hand tools...and a block plane is pretty darn common. You may be able to find on in whatever local "home center" type store that sells tools is, too. Even an inexpensive, mass market block plane can be tuned up and made serviceable with some effort. But investing in a good one will pay off in the long run.

Yes there are Retailers of course, Block Planes arent common here at all I've never seen one in any company or workshop i've been in Austria is Powertool and Machine Land in regards to Furniture making. A Good tool will pay of yes but if you dont have the budget that doesnt help the Veritas PMV11 Apron plane would cost me about 100€ the Dictum or Juuma about 20€ cheaper though i barely have any idea about the quality of the latter 2.
I need to think on this some more.


All of them....

I'd love to own all of the Handtools, budget doesnt allow that though one can dream.

[Greg Hines, MD]

By far the hand tool I use the most is a Japanese Razor Saw for trimming off just a hair. Chisels and planes are also useful for this kind of work.

Doc

[lowell holmes]

One hand tool you all left out is a rasp. I have two, a big aggresive rasp with a handle and a smaller rasp flat on one side and curved on the opposite side.

See this link.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/4-in-1-hand-rasp?gclid=CjwKCAiAqIHTBRAVEiwA6TgJw3fPbDKTbaLRGaD 4AvIaK5zesz3ySYglL7cS8EZkQOgXL-TjW7IGTBoCb8QQAvD_BwE