Riving Knife

[Richard Carner]

Can anyone direct me toward an aftermarket source of riving knifes? I own a 36-812 Delta Unisaw. TIA

[Jacques Gagnon]

Richard:

I have seen many posts taking about SharkGuard; you will find details at http://www.thesharkguard.com/. They have products that fit many makes and models; you will want to validate whether yours is on the list.

I do not have any business interests in that company; I am just relaying information.

Good luck.

[Richard Carner]

Richard:

I have seen many posts taking about SharkGuard; you will find details at http://www.thesharkguard.com/. They have products that fit many makes and models; you will want to validate whether yours is on the list.

I do not have any business interests in that company; I am just relaying information.

Good luck.

I do appreciate this.

[David Kumm]

Lee at Sharkguard will also make knives specific to your drawings if needed in various thicknesses. It is nice to have at least two, one the thickness of your regular kerf plates and one for thin kerf. Sometimes a rip blade will have a thicker plate and you want to match the knife closely to the plate. Dave

[Mike Henderson]

We first have to look at the differences between a "riving knife" and a "splitter".

A riving knife is a device that sits behind the blade to prevent the wood from closing on the blade AND it rises and falls, as well as tilts, with the blade. It maintains its position just below the top of the blade so that it almost never has to be removed, even if not making a through cut.

A splitter is a device that sits behind the blade to prevent the wood from closing on the blade BUT it does not rise and fall, nor tilt, with the blade. Because it is often higher than the top of the blade, it cannot be used for non-through cuts where it would be higher than the top of the blade.

Because of the limitations of a splitter, it often gets removed and may not be put back as assiduously as it should.

Unfortunately, most older table saws cannot be retrofitted to a true riving knife. You can only use a splitter on them.

Mike

[Matt Day]

The Shark Guard ARK is a “manual riving knife”, probably the closest aftermarket one you’ll find. There’s a guys over on OWWM who has a very cool shop made true riving knife, not sure if he’ll get into production or not.

[Mike Henderson]

The Shark Guard ARK is a “manual riving knife”, probably the closest aftermarket one you’ll find. There’s a guys over on OWWM who has a very cool shop made true riving knife, not sure if he’ll get into production or not.

I'd call that a manually adjusted splitter.

Mike

[That reminds me of a conversation I had quite a few years ago. I was big into running and had run a number of marathons. A woman showed me a picture of herself in running clothes and said, "That's me after my first marathon." I looked at her and she did not look like a long distance runner, so I asked her, "Was that a 26 mile marathon?" She replied, "No, that was a three mile marathon."

She wanted the recognition for running a "marathon" without doing the training to actually run one.

Same thing here. They want to call their product a "riving knife" without it actually being a riving knife.]

[Richard Carner]

We first have to look at the differences between a "riving knife" and a "splitter".

A riving knife is a device that sits behind the blade to prevent the wood from closing on the blade AND it rises and falls, as well as tilts, with the blade. It maintains its position just below the top of the blade so that it almost never has to be removed, even if not making a through cut.

A splitter is a device that sits behind the blade to prevent the wood from closing on the blade BUT it does not rise and fall, nor tilt, with the blade. Because it is often higher than the top of the blade, it cannot be used for non-through cuts where it would be higher than the top of the blade.

Because of the limitations of splitter, it often gets removed and may not be put back as assiduously as it should.

Unfortunately, most older table saws cannot be retrofitted to a true riving knife. You can only use a splitter on them.

Mike

Thank you for the explanation. This differences between a riving knife and a splitter were known to me. It is probable that the length of the throat on my Unisaw may not be long enough to retrofit a riving blade which you mentioned. What I have is one of the early 800 series models when such things as a left tilting arbor and reachable cut off switches were not part of the engineering plan. I may simply ditch this tablesaw - it's paid for itself hundreds of times over and purchase a Grizzly 1023 RL. How ironic that one of these machines costs about the same as what I paid for my Delta Unisaw in 1990 - $1,500. If you factor in inflation the model I purchased today would cost @2,700.

[Cary Falk]

I sold my Uni and bought a G1023RL partially for the riving knife. I couldn't be happier. That being said, Lee and Sharkguard are great to do business with.

[Richard Carner]

I sold my Uni and bought a G1023RL partially for the riving knife. I couldn't be happier. That being said, Lee and Sharkguard are great to do business with.

I'll wait to hear from Sharkguard but I'm am more and more leaning your way. I might be able to get $500 for my saw on Craigslist. I retrofitted it with an Biesemeyer Fence. That might be a plus.

[Mike Henderson]

I'll wait to hear from Sharkguard but I'm am more and more leaning your way. I might be able to get $500 for my saw on Craigslist. I retrofitted it with an Biesemeyer Fence. That might be a plus.

Unless your area is different, you should be able to get more than $500 for your saw. I think yours is a 3HP 240V unit. If it's a 120V with a much smaller motor (less than 2HP) you'd get less, maybe $500.

Mike

[Richard Carner]

Unless your area is different, you should be able to get more than $500 for your saw. I think yours is a 3HP 240V unit. If it's a 120V with a much smaller motor (less than 2HP) you'd get less, maybe $500.

Mike


Your right. Mine is the 3HP 240V unit. I'll do some searching on Craigslist. I've seen some pretty ratty looking beat up Unisaws on EBay. Mine has been used all these years in a 'one off' small shop. Very little sheet goods or production type runs.

[Mike Henderson]

Your right. Mine is the 3HP 240V unit. I'll do some searching on Craigslist. I've seen some pretty ratty looking beat up Unisaws on EBay. Mine has been used all these years in a 'one off' small shop. Very little sheet goods or production type runs.

In this area, a 3HP 240V unit with a Biesemeyer fence would go for about $1,000, plus or minus. Others can chime in for their area.

The major defect of older cabinet saws is the lack of a true riving knife. Many buyers prefer a saw with a riving knife for safety. But there's usually someone who will buy it.

Mike

[Lee Styron]

I'd call that a manually adjusted splitter.



Same thing here. They want to call their product a "riving knife" without it actually being a riving knife.]


Hi guys.
I would like to clarify a few things.

The description between a riving knife and splitter was mostly accurate. The splitter tilts with a blade too. All OEM guards of the past were splitter type guards and those did tilt with the blade. That is if they were ever installed. ;) Throat plate splitter attachments cannot tilt with the blade.

Splitters can also leave a large gap between the blade and the splitter especially at lower blade heights.
This is the area that makes the riving knife much more desirable and effective. It stays close to the blade. That plus the fact that it rarely needs to be removed means that it is on the saw longer and probably when you need it the most. There are very few cuts that cannot be done with a riving knife in place.

Our ARK knife is much more than just a splitter.

It has more in common with a riving knife than it does a splitter. It stays close to the blade and in fact rarely needs to be removed. You can even install and use a dado blade without needing to remove the ARK knife.
The only big difference between the ARK knife and a true riving knife on newer saws is the manual adjustment of it.
Much more than a simple splitter.
Check out some of our videos to see how our products function on various saws.
I did answer your email earlier too, Richard. Let me know if I can help further, Guys.
Thanks.

[Matt Day]

I'd call that a manually adjusted splitter.

Same thing here. They want to call their product a "riving knife" without it actually being a riving knife.]

I have to disagree Mike. It tilts with the blade like a riving knife. it is close to the blade like a riving knife, unlike a splitter.

You’re saying the only reason you wouldn’t call it a riving knife is because it is adjusted manually? A “manual riving knife” sounds perfectly accurate. Their standard shark guard is clearly a splitter, the ARK is not.

[Steven Powell]

I was lurking because I too have a 36-812 and would also be interested in a riving knife.

Does shark guard have something that will fit this model?

[Richard Carner]

In this area, a 3HP 240V unit with a Biesemeyer fence would go for about $1,000, plus or minus. Others can chime in for their area.

The major defect of older cabinet saws is the lack of a true riving knife. Many buyers prefer a saw with a riving knife for safety. But there's usually someone who will buy it.

Mike

I appreciate the low down on what a used Unisaw might go for. This give me a starting point. Thanks.

[Lee Styron]

I was lurking because I too have a 36-812 and would also be interested in a riving knife. Does shark guard have something that will fit this model?


This model can use our older splitters or the ARK type manual riving knife. Send a PM or go to the link above and send an email for some direct links with moore details. Thanks.

[Michelle Rich]

ARK is Adjustable Riving Knife. I put one on my 30+ yr old delta contractors...I had been using it for 30 yrs. totally naked as there was no way to use the splitter that came with it. Finding this ARK plus a cover that has dust control, was a great boon to my safety. Kudos to Lee.

[J. Greg Jones]

Having use the ARK on my Jet Xacta saw for about a year now, the term 'Adjustable Riving Knife' is a very accurate description of how it works. Would I prefer if it would raise and lower automatically with the blade height adjustment? Sure, but I'm not going to buy a new saw just for that feature. It's a fantastic product.

[J. Greg Jones]

Here are a couple of pictures, one at full-height and another set at a lower height where a non-through cut would be possible.

[Warren Lake]

illl read this over and try and sort it out. Seems to me if I have a riving knife I would need a few heights. I see the diff thickness thing im not going to use thin kerf blades so that doesnt matter. I come from a different time so nothing on the saw old guy taught wooden insert with a finishing nail knocked in if you need it from time to time. I never once had any issues with a piece trying to turn the nail kept it on track, It also was easier than a knife as right away I can see shimming is going to be involved. The finishing nail you rip your part part way stop the saw Knock the nail in and now all your rips are forced tight against the fence as well smooth nail minimal contact point slippery it was like a feather board keeping the material to the fence side tight. Didnt use it often enough but it worked great. Once the nail was in snip the head off with metal cutters.

So times have long changed and have a saw now to be hooked up soon with most likely a riving knife I think it would be called. Ill take it off soon and photo it. Basic question as its new to me what makes one a splitter and one a riving knife, is the riving knife that because its lower and doesnt have the old antic kickback pawls. Pretty old school here no air bags (other than the driver ) in older vehicles type thing. Ill read down all and attachments as well. This saw came with one of them original Generals came with stuff that was clearly quickly unusable making a living so needless they were never on the saw

I realize there are cuts where you cant have a thing poking up above the blade heght, also think in cases just something there even half an inch high is fine but the higher the safer as well. I should have studied up a bit before posting and sorted it out, I did a quick scan see a fine woodwork things they talk about the work turning then show two examples of the cut at the beginning the value would be in showing the cut finished at the heal of the blade and how that can unfold. ive lived that when i was learning and had a premonition and asked told wrong i paid the price for that. Experienced guy asked what had happened told him who I asked and he shook his head and turned red. Bad info.

[Matt Day]

Warren, the differences are pretty well hashed out in this thread. A splitter doesn’t move and is spaced behind the blade. A riving knife moves up and down with the blade and is has minimal space between it and the blade. Shorter distance between it and the blade the better.

[Warren Lake]

thanks Matt hope there is no chance it ever contacts the blade. sorry I didnt read it, in the hospital all day with the old guy had a heart attack three days ago and finally decided maybe he should check why he was having trouble breathing. your simple break down is perfect but will still scan down for the different dynamics. I might even graduate to over dust collection above and below after half a lifetime maybe time to be normal.

[David Kumm]

To clarify, every riving knife is not good and every splitter is not bad. Both can be set up poorly or well. If you upgrade to a different saw it should be a better machine, not just one with a riving knife. While a splitter may, if designed poorly sit an inch or so behind a blade, some riving knives are pretty narrow front to back so if tucked right behind a blade, can allow the stock to close up behind the knife. That requires the knife to be the proper thickness (equal to plate or very close ) or the stock can still kick back. Any stock that closes up within an inch or two from the back of the blade should not be cut on a tablesaw. I've seen 1.5" riving knives mated to 18" blades so bad designs are out there. Ideally I'd like to see saws come with knives 2-3" front to back and in several thicknesses. I've made splitters that I prefer to some of my riving knives. A rip fence that doesn't stay parallel is a real disaster in the making and neither a riving knife or splitter might save you from projectile dodging. Dave

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Mike, every splitter I've seen did tilt with the blade............Regards, Rod.

P.S. My Euro saw has both a splitter that rises and falls and tilts, yet it's higher than the blade so the guard can mount on it, and a riving knife.

Actually I have 2 riving knives in different thicknesses for different blades..............Regards, Rod.

[Charles Lent]

There is/was a product available called **** (Bolt On Riving Knife - use the first letter of each word) that you can find information on by just Google Searching for this (sorry, but the created word seems to be auto censored).. I know of it's existence, but have never even seen one being used. This is just a suggestion of another riving knife source for you to investigate. It may or may not fill your need.

I have a Delta Pop-Up splitter on my Unisaw that gets used whenever I'm doing long rip cuts in solid wood or find that I'm doing anything where it might be needed, but most of my rip cuts are done with a track saw. so I have found that the splitter on my Unisaw has been adequate for my needs.

Charley

[Cary Falk]

I thought the inventor of the Bolton riving knife past away some years ago? I had a Biesemeyer snap in splitter on my Uni. As easy as it was to use I found it out of the saw more then it was in. A riving knife is soo much nicer.

[Simon MacGowen]

Can anyone direct me toward an aftermarket source of riving knifes? I own a 36-812 Delta Unisaw. TIA

A few years ago, I attended a shop safety presentation (not just about tablesaws) and one segment covered safety products and the unsafe safety product implications. The following incident was not covered in the talk but it serves to illustrate the importance of choosing and understanding your safety products:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?176074-Beware-the-****&p=1811022#post1811022


Simon

[Mo Ghotbi]

So I know I am a year late to this thread, but I recently installed the Shark Guard ARK on my 2003 Grizzly 1023zx. Great product and great service from Lee Styron.