Mitre station fence (or lack thereof)

[Sean De Groote]

Hey all,
I’m currently designing a mitre station for my shop and have seen so many ideas, videos and plans that I’m going cross eyed.

I see some people who insist on having a long fence that is the full length of the table and other who use no fence at all. Some claim the only reason they have a fence is for a movable stop block. To this I say, I can just install the t-track in the table top along side an adhesive bench ruler and use that for stops. Can also use for hold downs.

What are your thoughts on this? Is a fence necessary? Can it cause issues on slightly warped boards? Will my mitre saw be more accurate with the fence?

Thanks in advance.
Sean

[Frederick Skelly]

Welcome to SMC Sean!
As you said, I added the fence because I wanted the stop block. Mine is only about 3 feet long on each side of the blade. I have crafted an extension block for when I need to cut something longer.

I find my cuts more accurate with the fixed fence/stop block combination. YMMV (your mileage may vary).

Fred

[Chris Parks]

I used an Incra fence for the repeatability of cuts and the positive stops, you don't need the fence and if the timber is bent it can be a hindrance but the Incra looks good and impresses people! :D

[Jim Becker]

I'm glad you raised this question as I've been questioning lately if I actually need the long fence on both sides of my miter saw. I primarily use it for breaking down long boards prior to milling. Very little material is cut for "precision" at the miter saw since I use my slider for cross cutting. When I do use the miter saw for things like that, it's typically shorter pieces. The point here is that I'm thinking about whether or not I really need to restrict the work surface so much with those fences since "surface" is sometimes a lot more valuable than "saw" at this particular workstation. My fences are also removable with reasonable ease, so they could go back on if a task required them. Hmm....

[Sean De Groote]

That’s part of my point here. The table top could do double duty without the fences in the way (as a workbench or as a place to put a bench top sander from time to time).

[Chris Parks]

I put the fences on locating pins and lift them away if they wren't needed and the pins save me having to zero the stops again when I need the fence.

[Sean De Groote]

I put the fences on locating pins and lift them away if they wren't needed and the pins save me having to zero the stops again when I need the fence.

Cool idea!

[Jim Becker]

Yea, my fences originally were on locating pins...I had to remove them when I was re-aligning things after changing the DC setup. I guess I didn't get the saw mounted exactly as originally by several of those proverbial hairs and over the length of the fences, the error was multiplied in an unhealthy way. So I just took off the dowels, realigned the fences and screwed them down in new holes. I'll restore the pins (accurate to current conditions) if I decide to move them for utility.

[Julie Moriarty]

On the subject of fences...

I just built a new miter saw cabinet that has fold down wings. The wings have the ability to be extended out, which allows for almost 7' from the stop block to the blade, on either side. From a versatility point, it's pretty good. But there is one negative, ensuring the fence is coplanar with the miter saw or if not, at least set back a bit so the board butts up tight to the miter saw fence when cutting.

When I was designing the cabinet I made sure every fence was adjustable. There are short fences on the cabinet top, either side of the saw, that can be adjusted front to back. The hinges on the wings are made of 3/4" EMT through holes drilled in the wing supports. I left some play in them too. However one wing is a fraction of a degree off and I had to insert a sliver of a wedge to kick it back. When I have time, I'll fine tune it. If I can get it dialed in perfect, the full-length fence won't be a problem.

My two cents...

[Mike Heidrick]

I like flip up stops in my kreg top track and diy fence. Repeatable removeable but immediately replaceable. Plus the track would fill with dust so i would be cleaning it a lot.

[Sean De Groote]

Interesting point.

[Tom Dixon]

I originally planed to use fences with the Kreg T-top and stops on my miter station I just finished, but I changed my mind and went with a single T-track on both sides of the miter saw. I really just wanted the extra work surface since I'm a hobbyist and not a production shop. I still need to add an adhesive rule on the T-track but I just haven't gotten around to it. Here's a couple pics:

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[Brian Holcombe]

No fence for me, I prefer the only reference to be the saw’s own fence. The outrigger is only there to support the material.

[Tim Bueler]

I've found an extension fence can actually be a hindrance when cutting crooked boards. Of course you can always turn the crook away from the fence but that is not always an option. For the last 20 odd years I've been using a long "outfeed" table (6' to 8' depending on whether in the shop or mobile) to support the work and a home built stop. The stop does mount to a "fence" but the fence is set back 3/4" ish from the face of the saws fence and only acts as a carriage for the stop. The "fence" extrusion is salvage from an airplane manufacturer is around 9' (yes, feet) long. Bolts through the table, attaches with two wing nuts for easy removal. As a trim carpenter and cabinet maker I have several different miter saws, anyone of which may be used on a jobsite. I have each of my saws mounted to a board that places each at the same height and the cut line in the same location. That way I can use any of my saws in a single set up either in the shop or on site.

[Tom Bain]

I originally planed to use fences with the Kreg T-top and stops on my miter station I just finished, but I changed my mind and went with a single T-track on both sides of the miter saw. I really just wanted the extra work surface since I'm a hobbyist and not a production shop. I still need to add an adhesive rule on the T-track but I just haven't gotten around to it. Here's a couple pics:


Tom — That’s a sweet setup. Nicely done. Did you make the butcher block tops as well? My miter station never looks that clean and neat

[Tom Dixon]

Tom — That’s a sweet setup. Nicely done. Did you make the butcher block tops as well? My miter station never looks that clean and neat

No I purchased the butcher block tops from Global Industrial http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/work-benches/components/tops/butcher-block-work-bench-tops Even with shipping I could barely buy the wood to make them any cheaper then they sell them. They are Global Industrial branded John Boos tops https://www.johnboos.com/.

My miter Station will likely never look that clean again now that I've started using it :cool: