First time pocket holes

[David Utterback]

I decided to use pocket hole screws to assemble an exterior door frame that is 7" wide made of black walnut. This frame is the piece that will attach to the building, installed in the typical way using shims. (If not already clear to the readers, the door will be hung by hinges to the frame.)

Having no experience with pocket screws, I am thinking about reinforcing them with 2 dowels that will be inserted from the outside of the frame into the header and footer pieces. These would provide long grain glue surfaces. Anybody used this method and would you think it is overkill? Thanks for any feedback.

[Jerry Miner]

David-- I've been installing doors for about 40 years. Never seen a doweled jamb (door frame). I think it's overkill--but it won't hurt and wouldn't be hard to do, so do it if it makes you sleep better. (Jambs are typically just screwed together. Once installed, the screws are largely superfluous as all the parts are locked in with other fasteners)

Longevity of your jamb will depend on keeping moisture out-- especially at the bottom. Seal well and allow for moisture to escape.

[Ted Derryberry]

The dowels would make the pocket hole screws unnecessary, other than to hold things together while you drill and install the dowels.

I use a lot of pocket hole screws, but mostly just so they'll be concealed. I never have understood why they would be used in place of screws in a typical manner (through the face into the end) when those wouldn't be visible either, or it doesn't matter like shop fixtures. I guess some might argue that the threads are biting into face grain rather than end grain, but it's often only 5/8" of face grain (typical 3/4" thick stock) vs. double that or more of end grain from the other direction. I have a hard time believing the pocket hole screw has more holding power of those two scenarios.

[lowell holmes]

I have successfully used pocket hole screws make doors, door frames and window frames. After plugging the holes, I find it to be good joinery.

Mortise and tenon joints are good also.

[Jerry Miner]

I never have understood why they would be used in place of screws in a typical manner... I guess some might argue that the threads are biting into face grain rather than end grain, but it's often only 5/8" of face grain (typical 3/4" thick stock) vs. double that or more of end grain from the other direction. I have a hard time believing the pocket hole screw has more holding power of those two scenarios.

Ted, I've never done a test, but I would expect a screw driven 5/8" into face grain would indeed hold better than a screw driven, say, 1-1/4" into end grain. Anybody out there ever tested this? Matthias???

[Ted Derryberry]

The species of wood, using the proper screw (course or fine threads), and drilling a correctly sized pilot hole would be important factors.

[lowell holmes]

Why don't you practice on same joints and see what happens. I did and found the joints to be good.

I have used them with good results.

[David Utterback]

Thanks for the responses. Sounds like I was overthinking the problem. Do any of you add glue to the joint?