Laguna 1836 Revo modified spindle lock

[John Keeton]

In my Hands On Review of the Laguna Revo 1836 (https://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?241930-A-Hands-On-review-of-the-Laguna-Revo-1836/page3) I noted "There is no way to lock that button so that one can use both hands to perform a task. It would be nice to have a plunge pin that would hold the button in and the spindle locked." I commented that I might end up drilling a hole and inserting a pin to hold the spindle lock engaged. In fact, I did do that shortly after writing the review, but I failed to post a follow up.

With some new interest in the Laguna I thought I would share my fix for this minor issue. It is quick and simple. I used a straight edge across the front of the headstock and measured the depth of the spindle lock button when engaged. I then marked and center punched on the front surface of the headstock the location for a pin. The hole was drilled with a 9/64" bit (as I recall - probably should check that.) I then cut off a 10D finish nail to use as a pin.

[George Troy Hurlburt]

Good idea John, knowing me with my arthritis I would drop that pin in the sawdust. Thanks for showing.

[Barry McFadden]

Clever thing to do John...I just can't bring myself to drill a hole in my new lathe!!:D:D

[John Keeton]

Barry, it only hurts for a second! And, it sure comes in handy having the lock pin when you need both hands to do something.

[Roger Chandler]

Pretty cool and useful mod, there John. Ingenuity on display! ;)

[William C Rogers]

Good idea John. I've been thinking of an alternate way, just have had the real need/time. My PM 90 was the say way and got use to it. I might try my alternate and post that.

[David C. Roseman]

Very clever, John!

To George's point, a short piece of carpet thread or fishing line tied to the pin and epoxied to a button magnet stuck on the headstock would prevent dropping the pin.

[John Keeton]

David, I have a magnetic tool holder strip mounted within arms reach to the left of my lathe on which I keep my chuck key, often used allen wrenches, knock out bar and other small items, including the nail/pin, but your idea is a good one!

[David DeCristoforo]

Fabulous piece of engineering, John! Bet you see one on the next "update" of these lathes. You better patent it quick. Of course, the nail might really add to the cost of the machines.... I can see the day when you are doing some trim work and think, "Damn.... I just need one more ten penny finishing nail...."

[John Keeton]

David, maybe we can save some money using the same attorney you are using on your highly developed bed extension!!:D

[William C Rogers]

Here is an alternate idea on the spindle lock as John motivated me to try the idea I had. I had Several rare earth magnets (but could only find one) given to me years ago by a friend. Initially I wanted to use two, but one works, having enough force to keep the button engaged. Do it just a magnet (1/4" X 3/8" 1-1/4") and a cut off angle bracket. I'll put a piece of tape to keep from marring the button

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[John Keeton]

Excellent alternative, Bill!

[Ashwini Kaul]

Ingenious and simple solutions!

[Dale Miner]

In my Hands On Review of the Laguna Revo 1836 (https://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?241930-A-Hands-On-review-of-the-Laguna-Revo-1836/page3) I noted "There is no way to lock that button so that one can use both hands to perform a task. It would be nice to have a plunge pin that would hold the button in and the spindle locked." I commented that I might end up drilling a hole and inserting a pin to hold the spindle lock engaged. In fact, I did do that shortly after writing the review, but I failed to post a follow up.

With some new interest in the Laguna I thought I would share my fix for this minor issue. It is quick and simple. I used a straight edge across the front of the headstock and measured the depth of the spindle lock button when engaged. I then marked and center punched on the front surface of the headstock the location for a pin. The hole was drilled with a 9/64" bit (as I recall - probably should check that.) I then cut off a 10D finish nail to use as a pin.

WOW!

Just plain WOW!

I can see that you spared no expense in this modification. I assume you had to make special trip to a specialty hardware store for the button retention device. 😊😆😁

Getting a bit more serious, I admire simple fixes with material on hand. Kudos.

[tom lucas]

I am amazed that that works. Spring action must be pretty soft. Great idea!


Here is an alternate idea on the spindle lock as John motivated me to try the idea I had. I had Several rare earth magnets (but could only find one) given to me years ago by a friend. Initially I wanted to use two, but one works, having enough force to keep the button engaged. Do it just a magnet (1/4" X 3/8" 1-1/4") and a cut off angle bracket. I'll put a piece of tape to keep from marring the button

376613376614376615

[William C Rogers]

I updated my concept design to my preproduction design. I used 1/2" rare earth magnets, two each side. I glued the magnets to the steel strip, added a knob and tip cover. This is a more "Robust" design.

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[Russell Neyman]

Couldn't the indexing feature be used as a spindle lock?

[William C Rogers]

The index could be used, however John's method or mine is much, much quicker. I don't want to be putting pressure on my index wheel when loosing a chuck.

[Barry McFadden]

Once I saw this thread I wanted something to hold the button in as well. Didn't want to drill a hole in the lathe and didn't really want to mess with bending or cutting metal. I decided on this simple (possibly crude?) setup and it works well. Just a piece of Maple with 2 half inch Rare Earth magnets on each end and a piece of dowel glued to the center. The magnets are strong enough that I can stick the back of it to the lathe when I don't need it....

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[ELY WALTON]

Call me odd, but I really do not feel the need for locking the retaining button. I just push the lock in with one hand while putting slight pressure on the chuck wrench with the other. Then both hands are free to add more torque and loosen or tighten... the button stays put until pressure is fully released... (For sanding, etc. I just use the indexing lock.)

However, there are some very minor changes I did make to my Revo. I found that I often brushed up against and moved the speed knob while up close and personal with the headstock during close-in work. The fix was to swap the big knob with a smaller one from my Razortip burner... fixed! Also, the rubber ball on the tailstock wheel just spins on a fixed pin... After a short while, I started to pull it loose occasionally. (No rational reason... not like I have to pull the knob to unscrew the quill!) Anyway, a quick check on Amazon resulted in a nicely finished silver handle to replace the rubber ball.

But no complaints here! All the meaningful fit, finish and performance are first-rate... would buy it again in a heartbeat... And thanks for the great review and follow-up tips, John!

Ely :>)

[William C Rogers]

Call me odd, but I really do not feel the need for locking the retaining button. I just push the lock in with one hand while putting slight pressure on the chuck wrench with the other. Then both hands are free to add more torque and loosen or tighten... the button stays put until pressure is fully released... (For sanding, etc. I just use the indexing lock.)

However, there are some very minor changes I did make to my Revo. I found that I often brushed up against and moved the speed knob while up close and personal with the headstock during close-in work. The fix was to swap the big knob with a smaller one from my Razortip burner... fixed! Also, the rubber ball on the tailstock wheel just spins on a fixed pin... After a short while, I started to pull it loose occasionally. (No rational reason... not like I have to pull the knob to unscrew the quill!) Anyway, a quick check on Amazon resulted in a nicely finished silver handle to replace the rubber ball.

But no complaints here! All the meaningful fit, finish and performance are first-rate... would buy it again in a heartbeat... And thanks for the great review and follow-up tips, John!

Ely :>)

You are correct, it is not needed. My previous PM 90 lathe had a protruding button that had to be held in place to lock the spindle. I got use to it. However since I can now lock the spindle I find it easier when I am installing or removing a chuck with the spindle locked in place. Either John's pin method or my magnet method is easy to use. For sanding in a fixed spindle position I still use the index as to position the piece. Locking not needed, but I like the capability to do it.

[Steve Reckner]

I went really low-tech and just turned a slightly tapered plug to jam in the hole to keep the button held down.