Titebond glue

[kevin nee]

I am in Massachusetts with recent temperatures below zero for an extender period my Titebond III has frozen solid. Since I will be buying new glue I am looking for some advice on which would be best for Maple to Cherry for hiding glue lines. Titebond II or III. Thanks in advance, Kevin

[Art Moore]

The glue that I've actually seen dry the most clear is Gorilla Wood Glue (not the expanding Original type). You may want to pick up a small bottle and try it on some scrap pieces. HTH.

[Mike Goetzke]

According to Titebond your glue should handle up to around 5 freeze/thaw cycles.

[John Keeton]

Unless moisture and working times are considerations I would go with Titebond original. Cheaper and clean joints if properly clamped. Clean gluelines are more about proper application and clamping than color of the glue.

[Tony Leonard]

Gosh, I was just looking at some pics of up your way - whew!

I use Tb III for some cutting boards and mouse pads (good use of scraps). I glue multiple types of wood together. I don't see any glue lines. Now, I am finishing a mahogany table that is a glue up and while I don't see any glue lines on the faces, but they show up on the end grain. Interesting.

Tony

[Len Mullin]

My Tite-Bond has frozen solid a couple of times, it still does what it's supposed to do without issue. I have glue-ups that are over ten years old, and there's been no delamination or joint failure of any type. Still, I now make it a point to bring all liquids that can freeze, into the house for winter months.
Len

[John Beaver]

Titebond III will leave a darker glue line. The advantage is the glue is water resistant.

Titebond I and II are essentially the same color and either will be ideal for your application.

Titebond II is best for end-grain joints. It is my preference, but they all work great.

If you are gluing pieces for turning, make sure the grain is all going the same direction. It also helps (structurally and aesthetically) if you keep the end grain growth rings curving the same direction. I call them smiles and frowns and you should make sure the pieces match.

[roger wiegand]

I do a lot with maple and cherry combinations and have used both TB2 and 3. 3 is closer to the tone of cherry, 2 is closer to maple, both seem to work pretty well. If the gaps in my joints are big enough that I can tell what color the glue is I figure I have other problems to deal with. :rolleyes:

[Keith Buxton]

Kevin,
I have started using the titebond Translucent it dries clear. I have found it at Menards. I have used all of them and have found that III discolors my joints of the semented cherry bowls after a few year.

[robert baccus]

Remember Titebond is basically a modified alphaic? glue and only has strength when clamped to real pressure. Not a matter of visibility but chemical reactions in the wood. Gorilla glues test at i/2 the strength of all other wood glues. Epoxy and CA glues can be just placed between 2 pieces of wood with no clamping if wanted.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

If the gaps in my joints are big enough that I can tell what color the glue is I figure I have other problems to deal with.
+1 to that. In any case, I use original..... Well, 3 now, since I can get it at work.

[John Keeton]

This may be helpful -

[robert baccus]

These numbers strongly suggest testing by "Titeboond" company. The very extensive university tests by Fine Woodworking magazine show completely different results and using different brands, joint tightness, clamp pressures ect in their tests 4-5 years ago. Might be more non-biased perhaps?

[John Keeton]

Robert, the chart is straight off the Titebond website, so I would assume it is their testing. I posted it not to support the contents, but more to the OP’s query regarding color and to the other comments about moisture and set time. I don’t recall any questions about strength.

Apparently, Titebond was the overall best in the FWW test and they link the test article on the Titebond site - http://www.titebond.com/Libraries/News_Articles/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.sflb.ashx

[kevin nee]

Thanks for all the replies, I went with Titebond III. If the project comes out as planned I will post some photos.

[Len Mullin]

Thanks for all the replies, I went with Titebond III. If the project comes out as planned I will post some photos.


Kevin, we would be interested in seeing the end results, if they suit you or not. We would be interested in seeing, how the glue worked. Did it show up once dry, did it do whatever? We would like to see the completed project and how it turned out, especially, after answering your question.
Len

[kevin nee]

Kevin, we would be interested in seeing the end results, if they suit you or not. We would be interested in seeing, how the glue worked. Did it show up once dry, did it do whatever? We would like to see the completed project and how it turned out, especially, after answering your question.
Len

I bought new Titebond III and glued my Cherry & Maple. I have made 5 of these with Walnut & Maple with good results.
I think the Cherry is a little light colored for this application. Maybe if I put it in the sun for a few days? I am still playing with the line thickness and where to center the angles. I put a photo of the Walnut which will probably be on the next one.

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