New to woodworking - table saw advice

[Nick Mazzino]

Hello all,
I am just getting into woodworking. For the last year I have done a good amount of milling oak trees into lumber.
Now, I am trying to get a wood shop. I have built a few small tables but nothing to much yet. I have basic tools such a miter saw, belt sander, jigsaw, and a few other small tools.
I am looking to purchase my first table saw and could use some advise. I have been doing some research and there is so much out there to pick from.
My budget is around 1,200$. I will be doing a lot of thicker hardwood cuts, sometimes on boards that are slightly warped. I have 220V power in my garage as well. I will also be looking for a planer/jointer in the near future as well to help our with the warped boards.
I am open to used. I have not been able to find a decent unisaw or powermatic around my area. I have been considering the sawstop contractor saw. It is a few hundred over what I wanted to spend, but I think it would be worth it.
Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

[lowell holmes]

My son has a Sawstop. It seems like an excellent saw to me.

Having almost cutting my thumb off one time, I really appreciate the protection it provides.

If I ever replace my saw, I will get a Sawstop.

[Lee Schierer]

I would recommend the saw stop as well. It is what I recommended to my son, but his budget wasn't quite as high as yours and he doesn't at this point intend on building furniture. He decided on the Ridgid model R4512 13 amp 10" saw. It is a decent entry level saw and was pretty well adjusted out of the box. The guards are pretty easy to work with and the fence locks up square most of the time.

The older Craftsman table 113 model saws with cast iron tops and after market fences and miter gauges work well. That is what I have. There are good cabinet type saws in your price range on Craigs list from time to time.

Whatever you decide upon I don't recommend any saw with direct drive for several reasons; they are very noisy,they have limited cut capacity and they usually have cheap fences and miter gauges. Belt drive saws are much quieter and have a greater cut capacity. You can also replace the motor down the road if you ever need to.

[Simon MacGowen]

Unless you are willing to invest more, SawStop is definitely not a saw I would recommend to you, because with $1200, you may only get a jobsite SawStop, a saw for contractor work, not for fine woodworking at all.

If you are considering the SawStop contractor saw, don't! Its quality, good for the money, is nowhere near the Professional model (PCS). If I were you and were serious about doing woodworking on a long term basis (as a hobby or not), I would cry once and buy the PCS. NO one -- none -- whom I know owning a PCS regrets about their purchase decisions. While I am at it, buy the PCS with the industrial mobile base and the overarm dust collection.

Too much money? Forget about doing woodworking as a hobby. There are many cheaper hobbies than woodworking.

The last line is just a joke!

If you don't want to get the PCS, buy a Ridgid (cast iron) tablesaw ($600) and Thickness planer ($400) for your budget. They offer lifetime warranty. Spend whatever is left on tablesaw safety gear such as the grr gipper etc.

My neighbor does decent work with the Ridgid saw -- minus any SawStop protection. He has been envious of my PCS since it rolled into my shop (years and years ago). If I had to, I would have got a loan to own my PCS. Why not? I was willing to get a car loan when I was young and drove a Camaro. And my buddies were envious of my car too.

Simon

[David Kumm]

Sawing thick oak that may be slightly warped is asking for a shorter life. I spent yesterday ripping 3.75" oak, 10' long and it took all of the 9 hp my slider had. If you plan to rip even 8/4 hardwood you want a full size 10" cabinet saw at the lightest. My preference would be a 12" Delta 12-14 or PM 72 either in 5 hp single phase or with a vfd if three phase. If you seldom rip thick stuff, a smaller saw will suit but no less than 3 hp given that you want the capacity for thicker. 1200 can get you a big used saw in decent shape but nothing new that is appropriate for thick, long, slighty warped boards. A bandsaw might be an option with a small jobsite saw but a good used bandsaw will be at least 1200. Dave

[Simon MacGowen]

Hello all,
I am just getting into woodworking. My budget is around 1,200$. I will be doing a lot of thicker hardwood cuts, sometimes on boards that are slightly warped. I have 220V power in my garage as well.

Your budget does not allow you to consider the SawStop ICS model. The PCS has the 220V option.

Warped goods have no implications to what saw you should own (thickness, yes). You can handle any warped stock with a shop made ripping sled, whether on a contractor saw or a cabinet saw.

If you have to handle thick stock only occasionally, switch to a thin kerf blade and make multiple passes with the ripping sled. Good dust collection would help too.

Simon

[Robert Engel]

For dealing with lumber like you describe I think a bandsaw, planer and jointer may actually be more important than a TS.

As far as a TS, IMO for what you're doing, you need *at least* a 3HP saw, which won't be attainable in that budget unless you find one used.

[Nick Mazzino]

Hello all, thank you much for the replies and opinions, I really appreciate it!

Unfortunately or fortunately, I am really into Musky fishing which is also a very expensive hobby.
As much as I am sure the PCS is amazing, at this point I cannot afford that much or am not sure if I want to as then I would not be able to buy other tools to set my shop up for a year or two.

The Ridgid table saw looks promising for only 600$ new at home depot.

I actually called the gentleman for the used Ridgid table saw below and was going to look at it tomorrow evening. He said he is flexible on the price. Any opinions on that?

Also, does anybody have any recommendations or opinions on jointer and or planer?

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/d/ridgid-table-saw/6447406630.html

[Josh Groen]

I am in a similar position as you looking for a table saw. My budget is the $1200 to $1500 range. Be patient and keep an eye out for used machines in your area. I live in a much smaller market than you and there is still some good saws available. A PM 66 in great shape for $900 and a PM1000 that is less than a year old with 50" fence and included router in extension for $1400. If you want a new saw (there is definitely appeal in getting a new saw), there are some good saws in that range. Jet Proshop, Laguna fusion F2 (10% off through the 31st of Jan) or a grizzly hybrid. There is no saw that is perfect for everyone, look around and what you like best is probably what is best for you.

[David Kumm]

Technically warped lumber can be handled with a sled, although thick oak on a 10' sled is more than I'd want to put through any small saw. Lumber that is warped is also likely to be cupped or twisted. Both are dangerous to deal with on a tablesaw. The op might want to consider having someone dress the boards to get them in condition for him to handle with lighter machinery. Dressing rough heavy hardwood is not a good way to start woodworking, especially with small machines. I do a fair amount of it ( usually for free ) for friends who don't have my heavy equipment and it is still hard work without also fighting the machine. Just know the risks. Dave

[andy bessette]

For well inside of your $1200 budget you can buy an excellent Unisaw or Powermatic cabinet saw.

[Simon MacGowen]

Hello all, thank you much for the replies and opinions, I really appreciate it!



Also, does anybody have any recommendations or opinions on jointer and or planer?

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/d/ridgid-table-saw/6447406630.html

It is hard to beat the Ridgid thickness planer for its price and performance. Also lifetime warranty. If you have the Ridgid power drills, you know what it means. They replace your dead batteries for life...I have got three new batteries since my old ones died after 7 or 9 years! That was more than the cost of a new Ridgid drill.

If that old saw is good for your woodworking (not for ripping thick oak stock, as David pointed out), try $250 or less. For that condition, I would not touch it for anything over $200, remember a new and latest model cast iron Ridgid is less than $600. That saw does not have cast iron wings which matter. (Does the new saw have better dust collection? You check that on the site.)

Just noticed this online: HD is offering a package deal of the TS + Thickness planer + a dado blade (which is a $100 value) for $1017.97.

Simon

[Nick Mazzino]

Hi Simon,

Thank you much for the input. The Ridgid one seems like it would work good and be a sturdy saw. I have a Ridgid nail gun and am very happy with it.

And by thick oak cuts I mean 2" in thickness. I know some people are cutting 4" hardwood. I do not think I will b e cutting anything that thick. Do you think the Ridgid would handle 2" thick hardwood cuts okay?

I cannot seem to find the combo deal at HD online. Would you mind sending me the link? I noticed they also have what looks like a nice Wen 6" jointer for 250$? For around 1500$ I think I could have a small starter shop to get me going. What are your thoughts on that jointer?

[Simon MacGowen]

Hi Simon,

Thank you much for the input. The Ridgid one seems like it would work good and be a sturdy saw. I have a Ridgid nail gun and am very happy with it.

And by thick oak cuts I mean 2" in thickness. I know some people are cutting 4" hardwood. I do not think I will b e cutting anything that thick. Do you think the Ridgid would handle 2" thick hardwood cuts okay?

I cannot seem to find the combo deal at HD online. Would you mind sending me the link? I noticed they also have what looks like a nice Wen 6" jointer for 250$? For around 1500$ I think I could have a small starter shop to get me going. What are your thoughts on that jointer?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Cast-Iron-Table-Saw-R4512/202500206

Scroll to the bottom to see the package offer.

Why do you need a jointer? Use a shop-made planer sled with the thickness planer which has 12" to 13" capacity vs 7" to 9" capacity on a jointer. Google "thickness planer sled" and you will see many different designs.

I don't have a jointer anymore and I build 60 to 65% of my work out of rough lumber.

2" thick stock -- see my earlier thin-kerf blade suggestion.

Simon

[Bill Dufour]

Location? If we knew we could let you know about anything local that might be near both of us.
For some reason this site occasionally forgets to add my location and I have to remind it.

[Simon MacGowen]

Regarding bandsaw vs tablesaw.

They can't replace one another; tablesaws can't cut curves and bandsaws can't cut dados.

Unless your work is specific to certain cuts, bandsaws can never replace a tablesaw in terms of efficiency. Many people said they got rid of their tablesaws but kept their bandsaws when they decided to do more work by hand. Good for them, but for me, the day I get rid of my PCS is the same day I get rid of my woodworking hobby.

You can build plywood cabinets using a track saw instead of a tablesaw but with a bandsaw? Better do it with a handsaw -- at least you don't have the riser block getting in the way.

Simon

[Peter Kelly]

I will be doing a lot of thicker hardwood cuts, sometimes on boards that are slightly warped. I have 220V power in my garage as well. I will also be looking for a planer/jointer in the near future as well to help our with the warped boards.As others mentioned, I'd recommend a bandsaw for this.

[Kevin Smira]

As for the "package deal" pricing, it's not really a package deal...It's not deal at all. Regular price for everything...it's more of a "frequently bought together" recommendation. I have the ridgid jobsite saw and hate it now. I can't trust it to cut a square cut no matter how many times I try to readjus the fence to the miter slot...it just won't stay square...different saw I know, but just wanted to throw that out there in case you think about that one. I have the planer as well, and can say without a doubt it's been my best purchase. Sure, the DW735 may be nicer, but it's also nearly twice the price. I haven't found anything that my ridgid won't do...

[Simon MacGowen]

I have the ridgid jobsite saw and hate it now. I can't trust it to cut a square cut no matter how many times I try to readjus the fence to the miter slot...it just won't stay square...different saw I know, but just wanted to throw that out there in case you think about that one. I have the planer as well, and can say without a doubt it's been my best purchase. Sure, the DW735 may be nicer, but it's also nearly twice the price. I haven't found anything that my ridgid won't do...

Yes, don't get the Ridgid jobsite saw (even though it is cheaper than the Ridigd Contractor saw). In fact, no jobsite saws including the SawStop will deliver the same performance as a contractor saw...unless the intention is do just jobsite work.

Simon

[Nick Mazzino]

My location is Cleveland, Ohio

[Nick Mazzino]

Thank you so much, I really appreciate it.

I haven't heard of a planer sled before. That is pretty awesome. Thank you for that as well, that is a great idea and a huge help.

Do you mill your own wood?

[Nick Mazzino]

Thank you for the input, I absolutely want a contractor saw for the stability. I will not be purchasing the job site version.

[cody michael]

I have seen on craiglist tons of very nice unisaw/pm in michigan especially around detroit, whi is not far from you, look on craigslist and facebook marketplace. I would drive a few hours and get a real cabinet saw before I bought a Homedepot saw (I love my ridgid drills) I bought my Unisaw from someone in Detroit a few years ago for $350 all it needed was an extension table. even after the mobile base extension table etc I have under $500 in a cabinet saw.

[Lee Schierer]

My location is Cleveland, Ohio

There is a 3 Hp unisaw (https://youngstown.craigslist.org/tls/d/10-table-saw/6433298142.html) for sale in the Youngstown area.

[Simon MacGowen]

Thank you so much, I really appreciate it.

I haven't heard of a planer sled before. That is pretty awesome. Thank you for that as well, that is a great idea and a huge help.

Do you mill your own wood?

About 60% of the time with rough lumber -- cheaper in the long run and good choice of lumber and grain.

Step 1: Rip to width with the ripping sled (max 12-1/2" for my Ridgid TP)
Step 2: Thickness plane one side with the sled/shims
Step 3: Flatten the opposite side without the sled
Step 4: Acclimatize the stock for a week or two in the shop
Step 5: Cut stock to final dimensions

Jointing is also done on the tablesaw. Jointer gone for many years as it was taking up space for no reason.

Others have suggested buying a cabinet saw instead of a contractor saw. That is a good piece of advice for anyone planing to do serious woodwork. It really depends on what you aspire to do. For fine woodworking, a decent cabinet saw is a must. Anyone planning to buy a new Delta or Powermatic cabinet saw would be better off with a SawStop PCS since the difference in price is small. Of course, if factors other than price, quality, performance and safety features are the main consideration, the conclusion can be anything but. For the record, none of the three brands mentioned is made in the USA.

Simon

[Simon MacGowen]

There is a 3 Hp unisaw (https://youngstown.craigslist.org/tls/d/10-table-saw/6433298142.html) for sale in the Youngstown area.

This one looks good to me. Price negotiable I suppose.

Simon

[Nick Mazzino]

I did find this saw that seems like a pretty good deal and a beast of a saw:

https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/tls/d/delta-unisaw-5hp-3ph/6424496757.html

I do not mind driving the 3 hours. However, I would have no way of unloading this out of my truck and would also be worried about something becoming misaligned or ruined during transportation. Has anyone ever moved a saw of this size?

[andy bessette]

2 guys can move these Unisaws. Easy and quick to remove the fence rails or table extensions for transport. Cheap to rent a pickup with lift gate.

[Tim M Tuttle]

I did find this saw that seems like a pretty good deal and a beast of a saw:

https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/tls/d/delta-unisaw-5hp-3ph/6424496757.html

I do not mind driving the 3 hours. However, I would have no way of unloading this out of my truck and would also be worried about something becoming misaligned or ruined during transportation. Has anyone ever moved a saw of this size?

One thing I noticed about that saw is that the motor is 3 phase. Do you have that available in your garage?

[Nick Mazzino]

I do not have 3 phase, but I could buy an inverter for a few hundred dollars that I thought might be worth it for this saw?

[cody michael]

The unisaw in ohio looks like a great option, with some dissabmly they are not hard to move, I took the rails off mine (only a few bolts) and 2 adults pushed it into the back of my suburban. I used boards to slide it off into my wood shop.

[Lee Schierer]

I did find this saw that seems like a pretty good deal and a beast of a saw:

https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/tls/d/delta-unisaw-5hp-3ph/6424496757.html

I do not mind driving the 3 hours. However, I would have no way of unloading this out of my truck and would also be worried about something becoming misaligned or ruined during transportation. Has anyone ever moved a saw of this size?

You are going to want to do a complete alignment when you get it any way to insure it is properly aligned. Those tables are generally pretty easy to remove.

[Mike Kees]

So I have moved at least 5-6 Unisaws average of 300 kms trip.All you need is a pick-up,large or small makes no difference. Back up to saw,remove extension table and fence then flip saw onto it's top (upside down in your truck box) .This maneuver is easily accomplished by two people. I fasten them in with two rachet straps,wrap one around front of saw and fasten at the back of box,the other goes around back of saw and fastens at the front of box. pile the fence and table in and go. They ride like a dream upside down. I usually put an old piece of carpet or cardboard under them to protect the top. Mike.

[Nate Secrist]

Hi

Mike Kees above has given you great advice about moving the saw upside down in the back of your truck! The saw rides alot better upside down because all the weight is on the bed of the truck. Just use lots of straps!

Good Luck!

[Nick Mazzino]

Thank you everyone for all of your input. I think I am going to get the Ridgid from HD for a first starter saw. Then once I get more into woodworking and learn more keep my eyes out for a used cabinet saw or a couple years from now buy the sawstop PCS.
Can this Ridgid saw use thin kerf blades? Sorry if this is a dumb question. Like I said, I am very knew and just trying to learn as much as possible.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Cast-Iron-Table-Saw-R4512/202500206
Thanks again!

[Nick Decker]

I'm sure it can, and you might want to think in that direction for cutting thick hardwood. Just know that thin kerf blades deflect more easily.

[Ole Anderson]

Keep in mind that most say a cabinet saw is the backbone of your wood shop. Do it right the first time if possible. If you can stretch your budget a bit, you will not be disappointed with the Grizzly 1023. A real 3 hp cabinet saw. New. Had one for 13 years, still going accurate and strong. I see they now include a router table insert, nice feature. Tons of folks here have various Grizzly products. http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3-HP-240V-Cabinet-Left-Tilting-Table-Saw10-3-HP-240V-Cabinet-Left-Tilting-Table-Saw-with-Router-Table/G1023RLW However that Unisaw would be the ticket as it already is fitted with a bigger table and is in your budget.

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg60/g/g1023rlw-a0689fc236c343e16953d5d786cbbb97.jpg

[Simon MacGowen]

Thank you everyone for all of your input. I think I am going to get the Ridgid from HD for a first starter saw. Then once I get more into woodworking and learn more keep my eyes out for a used cabinet saw or a couple years from now buy the sawstop PCS.
Can this Ridgid saw use thin kerf blades? Sorry if this is a dumb question. Like I said, I am very knew and just trying to learn as much as possible.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Cast-Iron-Table-Saw-R4512/202500206
Thanks again!

Yes. My neighbor uses it for thick stock ripping now and then (at other times, he uses my 3HP 230V PCS for really thick lumber).

I also agree with Ole's suggestion that if at all possible, start with a cabinet saw rather than a contractor saw unless one doesn't not have space or really really doesn't have the money (most hobby woodworkers have the money to buy whatever tools they want -- including Festool -- but just choose not to). The difference is just $2000 to $2500 between a SawStop PCS and a contractor saw. It is just $200 or less a month for one year or $100 per month over two years to put aside. How many of us don't spend that kind of money eating out each month?

I had used two contractor saws (Delta & Ridgid) and one non-SS cabinet saw all these years. A year or so after SawStop was marketed, I started using the Industrial model (ICS) for three years (work-related) and then purchased my own PCS, fully equipped. I can foresee using this saw until I am done with woodworking. They say cry once...I never cried, I have smiled from day 1 owning this saw. The quality is so good that I never get frustrated with my cuts anymore. The dust collection is the best of its kind and I now don't wear a dust mask and have only the dust filtration system on, unless when roughing edge stock. No cabinet mobile bases are anywhere near the hydraulic system installed on the PCS. I can move the 400-pound animal with just one hand, even in tight corners.

The only difference between Ole and me is that I will only recommend the SawStop cabinet saw, and no other cabinet saws until and unless the time comes when other brands have the SawStop feature. Today, I would not recommend anyone to buy a new car without the pre-collision brake system, blind spot warning, lane departure warning etc. These features will soon become standard in all passenger vehicles like ABS, airbags etc.

After all, the SawStop cabinet -- now part of the Festool family -- has been the #1 selling cabinet saw in North America and no public institutions as far as I know including schools will buy a new saw that is not a SawStop.

Yes, I know a few guys much older than me and have their 10 fingers in tact despite using tablesaws with almost zero protection. But I also know two persons who have had painful tablesaw injuries over the past two years alone. Both changed their saws, one to a SawStop and other to a tracksaw system.

Simon

[tom lucas]

I have the Griz 1023. Wonderful saw. I would hold out for a cabinet saw too. As has been said, the TS is the backbone of your shop. You'll use it more than any other tool. And if you still decide to go with a contractor's saw, beware that some won't accept Dado sets (short mandrel). My dado set is fast becoming my favorite accessory. It rocks for dados, rabbets, box joints, and tenons. I favor it every time over a router alternative.

And really research fences. A good fence is a must. Often this is what separates saw quality. If you buy a saw with a bad fence, you'll really be frustrated. And a good after market fence is at least $300. A good fence, strong motor, riving knife are essential when selecting a saw.

spend your money on the TS and look for the other tools on Craig's list. There are always routers, planers, joiners, drill presses, and sanders on there for half of new price.

A friend of mine just bought a Grizzly hybrid. He likes it. Not a bad way to go either.

[Phillip Mitchell]

I would keep looking for a used 3hp+, single phase Unisaw or Powermatic 66. You can find either in good enough condition and single phase for under $1000 if you keep looking. Others probably mentioned this, but you have to look every day for used equipment and cast a wide net sometimes, then be patient. It usually takes at least a month or two, if not many to find what you're looking for on Craigslist if you're being picky at all about what you want.

That being said, the finest cabinet saw isn't going to be much use for accurately or safely ripping cupped, bowed or twisted lumber. You need some way to square up your stock.

If you don't need it square for the end result and just need to rip it, I would instead buy a bandsaw and use that to rip rough lumber. Just my opinion.

[Simon MacGowen]

I have the Griz 1023.
And really research fences. A good fence is a must. Often this is what separates saw quality. If you buy a saw with a bad fence, you'll really be frustrated. And a good after market fence is at least $300. A good fence, strong motor, riving knife are essential when selecting a saw.

spend your money on the TS and look for the other tools on Craig's list. There are always routers, planers, joiners, drill presses, and sanders on there for half of new price.

A friend of mine just bought a Grizzly hybrid. He likes it. Not a bad way to go either.

The Ridgid fence I had was reasonably good (aluminum), but I have had no experience with the recent models.

Good point on buying other tools second hand.

When buying second hand tools, my guide is that the asking price for a tool less than 5 years old must not be more than 50% of the retail price. Don't forget the current retail price even for the same model may have been inflated due to yearly price increase. In addition, vendors often offer new tools at a discount for Boxing Day etc. at 20% to 30% off.

For me, there is no point of saving say $50 out of a $200 router which is probably an older model. One exception is Festool which has higher demand and less supply in the second hand market.

Simon

[Nick Mazzino]

I hope people are still looking at this thread because you guys were very helpful. I found this unisaw. What are your thoughts. It only has 1.5hp. Do you guys think that will be an issue?

https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/tls/d/delta-unisaw/6460816419.html

[Pat Barry]

Hi Simon,

Thank you much for the input. The Ridgid one seems like it would work good and be a sturdy saw. I have a Ridgid nail gun and am very happy with it.

And by thick oak cuts I mean 2" in thickness. I know some people are cutting 4" hardwood. I do not think I will b e cutting anything that thick. Do you think the Ridgid would handle 2" thick hardwood cuts okay?

I cannot seem to find the combo deal at HD online. Would you mind sending me the link? I noticed they also have what looks like a nice Wen 6" jointer for 250$? For around 1500$ I think I could have a small starter shop to get me going. What are your thoughts on that jointer?
Yes if the oak is dry and not warped or not likely to pinch the blade. Its really all about the blade sharpness.I have a Ridgid saw (older model - I really like it) and the blade will stall if the wood pinches the blade. I consider this a bit of a safety factor (LOL) since the saw is underpowered for that type of wood. Its better than having the same issue result in a huge kickback event on a higher powered saw.

[Pat Barry]

I hope people are still looking at this thread because you guys were very helpful. I found this unisaw. What are your thoughts. It only has 1.5hp. Do you guys think that will be an issue?

https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/tls/d/delta-unisaw/6460816419.html
Same thing as the Ridgid. See my comment above.

[andy bessette]

My primary Unisaw has the 1-1/2 hp motor. This is not a problem.

[tom lucas]

You'll get plenty of utility from the rigid. It will perform best with a thin blade. Some of the smaller saws won't take a dado set. I'm only guessing, but I'd bet that rigid would take a dado.

[lowell holmes]

I would point out that the saw stop would be a one time investment. The muskee fishing wouldn't have to suffer.

My trip to the ER cost more than the saw stop.

[John Sincerbeaux]

In the world of wood turning, they call this a “Vortex”. The same term applies to “flat” wood woorking. It sounds like you are about to get pulled in😀. If you are seriously thinking about getting into woodworking, you will be spending serious amounts of money in the years to come. It sounds like you already have a nice quantity of hardwood. That is worth hundreds if not thousands alone. But to really process that lumber and build furniture with it, you're going to need some machines. Unless you enjoy being frustrated, the lumber you have is going to require some heft and HP.
Like thers have said, wait till you can find and afford a cabinet saw. A few months ago, i sold my immaculate condition PM 66 to a gentleman for $1000. I sold my PM 8” jointer for the same price. I sold my jet 20” planer for $600. All machines i sold thru CL in Dallas. All were in perfect condition and would have been perfect for a guy like you. My point is, deals are out there.
My advice: 1) learn how to use a tablesaw safely from a very experienced person and or take a WW class. I believe so many accidents are caused from operators having little to no instruction.
2) Do Not buy a contractor saw. They are not designed to cut thick, warped, oak. Even if working with veneer plywood and perfectly milled 3/4” oak, you still will wish you had a “real” tabl saw.
3) Be careful! To me, your scenario sounds a little dangerous. Working with 8/4+ Oak, not flat and tru, using a light duty saw with little experience could quickly get ugly.

Cheers

[John Sincerbeaux]

Sorry for the wierd punctuation? For some reason, this site doest like the use of “quotations”? Has never done this before.