Frame Saw?

[Tom Norton]

In a previous post I started inquiring about a tenon saw. Today I got to thinking about the possibility of a small frame saw. I actually have a larger one hanging up and took it down. Mind you I need to do a bit of sharpening but I kinda like it.
So anyone here using a frame saw?

[steven c newman]

375662
Built this one using some maple scraps....needs a sharpening, and I need to learn how to grip it...

[William Fretwell]

Have used mine a great deal over the years. They used to be very inexpensive. At todays prices I would definitely build one. Great to cut curves as well as straight lines.

[John Schtrumpf]

Here's my first time using one:

375665

[Tom Norton]

Anyone have a source for cross cut blades?

[Tony Corey]

Isaac Smith at Blackburn Tools has parts, including blades, to build Roubo style and Danish style frame saws.

Blackburn Tools
http://www.blackburntools.com/new-tools/new-saws-and-related/roubo-frame-saw-kit/index.html

TonyC

[Phil Mueller]

You can also check Woodjoy Tools. Not sure what you’re planning to saw with it, but my experience is the wider japanese pull stroke bow saw blades (about 1 1/2” wide) are excellent for straight line cutting and very gentle curves. They come in rip, crosscut, and universal. If you plan to saw more curved work, look into a narrower blade...3/8” maybe.

[steven c newman]

Paul Sellers just uses Bandsaw blades.

Mine?
375694
Uses allthread to tension. The blade and hardware came fro a couple Butcher's Meat saws......most any antique store has a few hanging around..cheap.

Traditional Chinese Woodworking forums, by GE Hong, has a few videos out about how to build one like this. The fellow has well over 30 such saws, sitting around in his small shop. All different sizes. Might be worth a look?

[lowell holmes]

I have two frame saws. I made one after a Paul Sellers class. They cut fast.
Actually one is a bow saw and one a frame saw. It is easy to make a bow saw.

[Patrick Chase]

You can also check Woodjoy Tools. Not sure what you’re planning to saw with it, but my experience is the wider japanese pull stroke bow saw blades (about 1 1/2” wide) are excellent for straight line cutting and very gentle curves. They come in rip, crosscut, and universal. If you plan to saw more curved work, look into a narrower blade...3/8” maybe.

I mostly use those blades in my bowsaws (which is what this thread is really about, a framesaw is a somewhat different beast). I cut on the push with them because that's what I prefer. The bow provides enough stiffness that there's no reason to cut on the pull.

[Mike Holbrook]

There was another thread that may be pertinent: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?260439-Tom-Fidgen-Frame-saw-and-kerf-saw&highlight=

[Mike Allen1010]

I have 4 shop built frame saws (2 rip, 2 crosscut). I built them when I was just getting started with hand tools. I like the idea of the lightweight and having the blade under tension which allows it to be a little bit thinner than a traditional Western panel saw.


That said, I never really got the hang of using them. They cut real fast but it was much easier for me to saw to a straight layout line with a panel saw. I think it might be something about the balance of of frame saws which feel kind of "top-heavy" to me.


I've tried to use my largest Frame 5 PPI sawt for resawing but was ultimately unsatisfied because:


A ) Re-sawing by hand sucks period, at least for an old, fat guy like me.


B) I consistently had difficulty tracking the layout line – inevitably the offside (side farthest away from the sawyer) always ends up drifting away from the line.


It's probably more about me than the saws, but personally I prefer Western panel saws. The frame saws mostly hang in the shop. The one I use the most is a small frame with 9 PPI rip blade that works well for sawing dovetails in really thick (4") stock.


Cheers, Mike