Stupid looking, or go with it?

[Greg Parrish]

This is already glued up and 5 coats of finish on it. Part of me says to cut the end off flush but I can’t bring myself to cut off one of the most interesting parts of the table top. That said the hard right angle looks odd. Will be sitting on simple iron pipe stand.

Does it work though since it’s a natural edge table made from two different slabs, or look totally stupid?

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2701197489-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2701197487-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2701191573-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2701191642-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2701206729-4.jpg

[Jim Becker]

While I can appreciate that you, um...appreciate...that small section of the slab on the left side that extends farther, it's going to look really funky unless you do trim it off flush. I'm guessing that this piece was designed for a specific place and you're now repurposing it? I'd trim it, refinish just the end and mount it on your stand to make a very attractive table. You have a lot of depth in that piece already and it should make up for the tiny percentage of it that would be removed. (which you could use for something interesting and artful, most likely)

[Greg Parrish]

While I can appreciate that you, um...appreciate...that small section of the slab on the left side that extends farther, it's going to look really funky unless you do trim it off flush. I'm guessing that this piece was designed for a specific place and you're now repurposing it? I'd trim it, refinish just the end and mount it on your stand to make a very attractive table. You have a lot of depth in that piece already and it should make up for the tiny percentage of it that would be removed. (which you could use for something interesting and artful, most likely)


Jim, that’s what my wife just said too. It is to be a coffee table and I originally intended to cut the ends flush but I just really like that little nub. LOL. Guess I will make something else from it after I trim it down. Happy wife..............

[Wayne Lomman]

I would cut it off and use that piece for a small project. Another option would be to shape/curve the ends to eliminate the right angle but incorporate the figured piece you like. Beautiful timber and the pipe base is great too. Cheers

[Jim Morgan]

Whatever you do with the end of the slab (I like Wayne's idea to cut a curve so you can retain that figured end), don't forget to elongate the holes in the cross-supports to allow for seasonal movement.

[Dan Friedrichs]

It would be a shame to cut that piece with the interesting grain.

What about filling that "spot" with something complementary to the industrial look? Thick, frosted acrylic? Diamond plate? Copper-clad...?

Edit to add: How about a inset storage cubby? Remote control storage?

[Roger Marty]

I would cut it flush

[Greg Parrish]

It would be a shame to cut that piece with the interesting grain.

What about filling that "spot" with something complementary to the industrial look? Thick, frosted acrylic? Diamond plate? Copper-clad...?

Edit to add: How about a inset storage cubby? Remote control storage?


Interesting idea. Not sure I can visualize a way to add something that would look right or blend though.

[jack duren]

Cut it flush...You need to route and put steel in the table rather than the screwed bds...

[Jerry Miner]

I would cut it flush-- and I urge you to pay attention to James Morgan (post #5)-- if you don't allow for wood movement, you could have a problem later.

[Steve Peterson]

I agree that it looks funky sticking out like that. Cut it off and use it to make some coasters. It will look more natural with both edges trimmed straight. And you will have the most interesting coasters, plus a story to go along with it.

[John K Jordan]

I would cut it off and use that piece for a small project. Another option would be to shape/curve the ends to eliminate the right angle but incorporate the figured piece you like. Beautiful timber and the pipe base is great too. Cheers

That was my first thought too on seeing the first photo. I think it would look purposefully dynamic instead of accidentally mismatched.

JKJ

[Matt Day]

Referencing the first picture, I probabaly would have moved the pic on the right down so the two highly figured parts stay intact and the less figured far end gets lopped off. Too late for that probably. Cut off the figured end then.

[Greg Parrish]

Referencing the first picture, I probabaly would have moved the pic on the right down so the two highly figured parts stay intact and the less figured far end gets lopped off. Too late for that probably. Cut off the figured end then.

In hindsight that would have looked best but at this point it would involve slicing them back apart, and starting from scratch. Not sure it’s worth that.

[Prashun Patel]

Another vote to cut it flush. Make a bowl out of that cut off and put it on the coffee table.

Priceless grain is worthless if the form isn’t good.

[Keith Weber]

My initial thought was to cut it off and make a small serving plate or shallow bowl out of it to be used on the table itself. Possibly a tray to hold TV remotes. I like Steve's coaster idea as well.

[Brent VanFossen]

You could always install a square column in the room so you could push the table up against it...

Joking aside, I would trim the long board flush. I like the coaster or bowl idea.

[Bill Jobe]

I'd be struggling with the same decisions on that wood. Beautiful figuring!
I have a couple of great pieces of wood that are too nice for me to make any kind of decision.

[Bill Jobe]

Perhaps turn it into a small lazy susan for the table top.

[Greg Parrish]

Will take some work to get the ends up to the same level of finish as the top, and then I’ll need to sand and refinish everything one final time to blend the finishes, but I think it turned out ok. Gave it some sanding to try to look a little more natural like the sides.

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2701674985-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2701674913-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2701676922-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2701676143-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2701936878-4.jpg

[Wade Lippman]

You work fast. I would have stared at it for couple weeks before hacking the odd part off.
Looks good.

[Jim Becker]

Greg, I think that ultimately, this was a good decision and leaves you with a final result that will be pleasing to the eye.

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks guys. I agree. Little more work and time to build the end finish up to the same level, but will be good in the end. I still have a few coats to go on the top to finish sealing up some of the little pores and low spots but it’s getting there. Almost has the epoxy look now but it’s just lots of layers of satin poly with sanding in between.

[Prashun Patel]

On second thought, I think you should leave it. I liked it better.


JUST KIDDING! Enjoy the beautiful wood: table, coasters, blue tape, and all!

[Greg Parrish]

On second thought, I think you should leave it. I liked it better.


JUST KIDDING! Enjoy the beautiful wood: table, coasters, blue tape, and all!


ha! Now where did I put that big bottle of super glue! :)

[jack duren]

Looking good:) ...I got a piece left from a job I like to do something special with...

[Greg Parrish]

Looking good:) ...I got a piece left from a job I like to do something special with...

Really nice. Nice shop too. Looks like a commercial shop as compared to my home garage shop. :)

please share are what you make as I’d love to see pictures.

[Scott Haddix]

Looking at the picture of the under side of the table, a little concerned if you've allowed for seasonal wood movement in your cross pieces. Can the outer screws travel within your cross braces as the wood moves?

[Greg Parrish]

Looking at the picture of the under side of the table, a little concerned if you've allowed for seasonal wood movement in your cross pieces. Can the outer screws travel within your cross braces as the wood moves?

Unfortunately, I didn't. I glued and screwed the cross braces to the bottom. Doh!!!


But, thanks to tips early on in this thread I went back and managed to get the cross braces off. I cleaned them up and planed off the glue residue on the bottom of the table. Gave it a quick sanding and put on a coat of finish now that the top is done. In the mean time, I also jointed, planed and cleaned up all of the cross braces. To keep the existing holes in use, I enlarged the screw holes to 1/2" holes. This is a huge difference over what was initially a tiny 1/8" or less screw hole sized hole. I didn't have the time or means to easily put a true slot in, but with my industrial look I decided visible screws wouldn't be the end of the world. I plan to use stainless screws with 1" washers in each hole. This should allow for a ton of movement as needed but still add strength to the table.

I also ended up changing my approach to the top. I did away with the wet epoxy look in favor of a more mat natural look. Ended up taking me about 15 hand rubbed coats of extremely thinned poly/mineral spirits mix, but the resulting finish is smooth as glass and free of any bubbles or marks. Very happy with the top.

I'm uploading a few photo's to share in a second.

[Matt Day]

Greg, did you forget to think when you build this too? Lol. I know I sometimes forget the basics when I’m excited to get working on something.

Looking forward to seeing the pics of the revised top.

[Greg Parrish]

Absolutely. I jumped in head first. I'm hard headed and learn by making mistakes and doing it over 20 times though.


Here is the bottom after removing the stringers and cleaning the glue up with the plane.
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The stringers cleaned up and larger holes drilled to allow for movement. I also stained them with a darker color for contrast. As mentioned I'm going to go with the same sized smaller diameter stainless screws and some 1" stainless fender washers. This should allow a great deal of movement but still provide some support for the two slabs.
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Sneak peek at the finished top
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Lastly some what it will look like pictures before I pulled it back in to remove the glued on stringers. Doh!
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I think it will look great once I'm done with the bottom and have it all put together. I really like the darker cross braces for contrast but also to help take the focus off them a little bit when upright. I'm going to put another coat or two of thinned clear on the bottom and then call it done.

Thanks for any insight or comments as the ones provided earlier helped me correct for wood movement before calling it done. :)

[Malcolm McLeod]

Looking good:) ...I got a piece left from a job I like to do something special with...

Jack, that was MADE for shipping!! ...And it would be magnificently special if you shipped it to me?:D

Greg, yours looks special too, but I'm betting you won't ship it to me either.

[Greg Parrish]

That was MADE for shipping!! ...And it would be magnificently special if you shipped it to me?:D

Ha. If someone is just giving away walnut slabs I'll take 3 or 4 more please. :)

[Matt Day]

Looking good Gregg. Good call on the darker supports.

If it were me, I probably would have filled the voids with epoxy top and bottom. Flattens it out and strengthens it up.

[Frederick Skelly]

Looks great. Good decision!

[Jim Becker]

Truly a lovely table. Nice work!

[Greg Parrish]

<p>

Looking good Gregg. Good call on the darker supports. If it were me, I probably would have filled the voids with epoxy top and bottom. Flattens it out and strengthens it up. thanks guys. I thought about epoxy in the cracks but decided I liked the open look. I did pour lots of poly down It 15 Times while doing the top. It is pretty well locked together with polyurethane running all the way through and the cross supports providing extra strength. But I get what you are saying. :)</p>