What to do with this slab?

[Jason Victory]

My lumber supplier that I usually get slabs shipped from sent me this hard maple slab. The plan is to rip down the middle and simply use the two approx 8" pieces as the outer piece, and use normal hard maple stock to give me the correct dimensions the client is wanting. Either I wasn't careful enough inspecting the pictures prior to purchase, or they only sent me a photo of one side of the slab, either way its my fault for not doing my homework better on this slab. I can't return it, as the customer is needing the top done by the end of the month (January).

What would you guys suggest to "fix" this gap? Epoxy with hard maple sawdust?

I'd love to know your thoughts!375376

[Jerry Wright]

Clear 5 minute epoxy with a very small addition of rotten stone or pumice stone to "yellow" it.

[Bradley Gray]

5 minute clear epoxy after the first 2 coats of finish - easier to clean up.

[Jason Victory]

Clear 5 minute epoxy with a very small addition of rotten stone or pumice stone to "yellow" it.


5 minute clear epoxy after the first 2 coats of finish - easier to clean up.

Do you guys have a 5min brand you like/use?

[Jim Becker]

Is your client going to be ok with a "slab" surface that's glued up like that? ('just curious...)

[Jerry Wright]

I get whatever brand is at the big boxes in the small parallel plunger packs. Not fussy about brand. I tape bottom of crack and fill from above.

[Jason Victory]

Is your client going to be ok with a "slab" surface that's glued up like that? ('just curious...)

This isn’t what they wanted at first. They wanted a 48” wide hard maple slab table with a somewhat straight live edge, and the only ones I could find after many calls and searches y’d off on the end which they didn’t want; even if I did find one I’m sure it would be out of their price range. All to say this was our compromise to get them what they wanted.

[Jason Victory]

I guess I should clarify the size. The space that needs to be filled is approx. 6.5”x1.5” so it needs more epoxy that the parallel epoxy mixes that you get at the big box stores.

[John K Jordan]

I guess I should clarify the size. The space that needs to be filled is approx. 6.5”x1.5” so it needs more epoxy that the parallel epoxy mixes that you get at the big box stores.

How deep? Be careful filling large volumes with epoxy - the exothermic reaction can generate a lot of heat and smoke and self destruct. It can even do this in the mixing container before it is spread. It's also easy to have epoxy set up full of bubbles. I'd call West System or System Three and ask.

My opinion is epoxy mixed with sawdust looks horrible. I'd try a sample first.

JKJ

[Sam Murdoch]

Are you wanting to fill that "slope" of the edge? Filling a space the size you indicated would - to my preference - be filled with solid wood.
Would be a challenge to fit to the slope but with a combo of flattening the existing edge and matching the filler to fit, you could get a fit that would be stable and solid with epoxy as the adhesive and gap filler.

[Bradley Gray]

When I said use epoxy, I was thinking small defects. No way is a big hunk of epoxy going to fly.

Consider band sawing some of it and using the cut off to fill - or just cut it off and use a drawknife & spokeshave to smooth things.

[John Lanciani]

Based on your commentary, there is no way that I would even buy the epoxy before the client saw the piece of wood and accepted in writing the proposed plan. You are in a no-win situation right now; no time, no money, and no materials to build what the client actually wants. Better to lose the commission now and eat the cost of the slab than to build a piece and either have it rejected outright or lose the future business of the client and everyone that they know.

[Malcolm McLeod]

... to "fix" this gap? ...


Are you trying to fix the surface checking (1/2 way down near right edge)? ...or the wane on the left? If the latter and the 'top' must be as you have it oriented in the pic, I'd get a different board - since this will probably never make a good surface for traditional dining.

Or have you considered just turning it over? If the other surface is suitable as a 'top', the wane becomes just the table's natural edge treatment (with no plate spillage:cool:).

Sometimes trees don't cooperate with client's expectations. ...They want natural and there it is!

[stan shields]

I like the "Great Planes" brand, always had good results with it. Amazon.

[Ira Matheny]

Get a new piece for the client. Make yourself an neat 'River Table' with this one.

[Keith Weber]

That's an odd piece to work with. I know that live edges are all the rage, but a thin and wide edge like that on one side of the board doesn't even look appealing to me. Maybe more artistic people with me could come up with a vision for that board, but I certainly couldn't (short of ripping off the tapered edge and feeding the bonfire). Not trying to be the pessimist, but I just can't see it. I'm looking forward to see you come up with something to prove me wrong.