LV Skew block question(s)

[Kevin Smira]

Hi all...I received a RH skew block from LV for Xmas. Haven’t had a chance to use it just yet, but hoping to get some feedback. I posted in another forum, but the topic has seen little response...hoping for some LV users and/or @roblee to pop in...

When I tighten the fence rod into the plane body, there is a very, very small amount of play in (what I can assume) the threads...this causes the fence to skew relative to the sole a very small amount. Also, the fence doesn’t lock “tight” onto the rod and if the sole wasn’t blocking the fence, I could rotate the fence 360 degrees. Now, when planing, the fence would be square to the sole, so I’m not too worried about the rotation of the fence, but wanted to confirm if this was correct. I’m more worried about the “loose” fitting of the fence rod into the body.

I’ve only ever used a LN skew block and that fence locked tighter than a drum, so that’s what I was expecting. I just like the LV better.

Thanks,
Kevin

[Jim Koepke]

Hopefully Rob Lee will pop in here.

My thought is you should call LV customer service. Most likely you will receive a replacement.

The fence rod likely shouldn't have any play. And the fence should lock tight, imo.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

I am away from my workshop at present, and so cannot comment others that to reinforce Jim's advice. Always contact Lee Valley if you have a query. They will sort it out.

My main reason for replying is a heads-up that there is a depth stop accessory available from LV for the skew block plane. This is a most useful item.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Sheldon Funk]

That doesn't sound right to me. When I use the fence on my LV skew block, it locks snugly without any play (using a little wrench) and the fence locks tight and square.

Is it possible that there is gunk in the fence rod receiver that is preventing you from completely tightening the rod?

ETA: I wouldn't worry too much if my fence pivoted, as long as it stays where it is, but the wiggle in the rod is what I would focus on. Just my 5 cents.

[Kevin Smira]

Ill check the mating area, but I ’m most likely going to send it back for replacement I think. I’m not too worried about the fence rotating, but to look at it this way...if I had the longer rod on there, the purpose of the fence would be negated as it would just freely spin.

[Kevin Smira]

Don't mean to regurgitate an old thread...but...

Sent the original back for replacement and the replacement fence doesn't lock tight either. I called and LV said that's the way it's supposed to be...however, as I stated before, if the longer rod was installed, the fence would just rotate and negate the benefit of using a fence (except for the fact that it would hold the fence at a relative distance from your workpiece). I think I will send this one back and buy the LN instead.

[Derek Cohen]

Kevin, I suspect that you are setting up the Veritas Skew Block Plane incorrectly. What you have is user-error.....

Here is the SBP with fence attached ...

https://s19.postimg.org/rxcpy88k3/Plane2.jpg

If you turn the plane over, this is what you see when the fence is extended beyond the body ...

https://s19.postimg.org/82qoc3dwz/Plane3.jpg

However, the fence is not used this way! There is no point - if you look at the mouth, you can see that it ends short of the side of the body. To use the fence, move it under the body, so ...

https://s19.postimg.org/mlxtdiu77/Plane4.jpg

Now it cannot twist.

The way the plane is used is by moving the fence along the rod under the body ...

https://s19.postimg.org/psscx5mcz/Plane5.jpg

The LN version works exactly the same way, and would also be liable to twist if the fence is used outside the body. The LV needs to connect the rod by tightening a locking screw (while the Veritas only requires the rod being screwed into the body. This can be done very tightly, should you need, but it does not affect the adjustment anyway).

https://s19.postimg.org/l6w8ox3fn/LNSkew_Rabbet_Block_Plane_Restoration_html_m299a29 0a.jpg

Incidentally, there is a depth stop available for the Veritas SBP ...

https://s19.postimg.org/jruo01x5v/Plane1.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Kevin Smira]

Derek,

Thanks for the post. However, I am setting it up exactly as you describe/show. When the fence is "inside" the sole of the plane (as shown in pic 3), there is a gap between the sole and the fence of roughly .2mm (4 pcs of paper). Since the fence doesn't lock tight onto the rod, the gap allows for the fence to move (forward/back), hence if i were to set the fence up outside the sole, it would rotate...guess I'm thinking about a situation where the fence would be outside the sole using the longer rod. But, perhaps I should be thinking of the longer rod only being used with a different fence (thicker/angled/whatever) that would not put the fence outside the sole?

All that said Derek, do you prefer the LN or the Veritas? I'm perfectly fine keeping the Veritas as I think it's fine as is.

Thanks!
Kevin

[Jim Koepke]

With it not being a full rabbit, what would the point be of having the fence away from the plane body?

It seems after a few passes the plane would stop cutting because of the blade not going all the way across the sole.

jtk

[Kevin Smira]

@Jim...touche...

[Chet R Parks]

Kevin, I have the LN skew block plane. If you take a look at that plane on LN website you will see that the slot/mouth/opening where the blade edge is, goes all the way across to the other side/web of the plane when USED as a Rabbet plane. So the only thing keeping the toe in plane and free of twist is that one wall. Of course when using it as a skewed block plane you have to attach the steel plate to create another wall and close off that opening. I purchased the LV skewed rabbet plane because they have a wall one one side and a bridge on the other. I have never had a problem with the LN plane but IMO I think the LV design invokes more confidence in the continuity of the plane body and it has a depth stop available. I don't mean to influence your decision one way or the other, this is just my 2 cents.

[Patrick Chase]

When I tighten the fence rod into the plane body, there is a very, very small amount of play in (what I can assume) the threads...this causes the fence to skew relative to the sole a very small amount.

This shouldn't happen, and doesn't in either of mine (LH or RH). I would check the rod and the hole for obvious threading defects, and send it back unless you find something you can trivially fix (easily dissolved glue on the threads or something like that).

[Derek Cohen]

Derek,

Thanks for the post. However, I am setting it up exactly as you describe/show. When the fence is "inside" the sole of the plane (as shown in pic 3), there is a gap between the sole and the fence of roughly .2mm (4 pcs of paper). Since the fence doesn't lock tight onto the rod, the gap allows for the fence to move (forward/back), hence if i were to set the fence up outside the sole, it would rotate...guess I'm thinking about a situation where the fence would be outside the sole using the longer rod. But, perhaps I should be thinking of the longer rod only being used with a different fence (thicker/angled/whatever) that would not put the fence outside the sole?

All that said Derek, do you prefer the LN or the Veritas? I'm perfectly fine keeping the Veritas as I think it's fine as is.

Thanks!
Kevin

Hi Kevin

The fence is not designed to be set outside the body/sole. I cannot think of a situation where this would be needed. You are asking the plane to do something it was not designed to do. Changing the rod or fence is irrelevant in this circumstance.

Which is better, LV or LN? I keep the LN for sentimental reasons - it was junk when I purchased it on eBay, and Tom Lie-Nielsen helped me restore it. It is a fine plane, and certainly gorgeous looking. It works well, and if I did not have the LV, I'd be perfectly happy. But the LV is a better plane. The fence actually locks on more efficiently (no tools needed, as with the LN), no side plate to remove (the LN often gets lost, as was the case with mine when I purchased it), and the LV has set screws to position the blade exactly, and then re-position it after sharpening - these blades are tricky to set up. Lastly, the adjuster on the LV is more sophisticated. Now there is a depth stop for the LV, and this is an important addition.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Kevin Smira]

Patrick...that post was from the original plane. I sent that one back. The new one I have doesn’t move at all. The reason for my repost was I thought that the fence shouldn’t rotate on the rod, but maybe it just does...

Thanks Derek...I believe the LV plane is a better overall one as well. I believe that I will just keep this one and be fine with it.

[Mike Holbrook]

There are better LV planes for cutting rabbits. The LV Skew Rabbit is designed for this work. I use my block planes more for touch up than as main planes for making joints. My Skew Block typically does not have the fence attached.

377000

I have been removing about 1 1/2”s from the top of the carving bench top above. Hand planes can not get up next to the corners in this job, as the blade does not reach the edge of the plane. Many of my hand plane blades have significant camber too. A small skew block, with cutting wheel, can both score the exact line and remove the wood regular hand planes can’t. If I need to remove a larger quantity of wood I would step up to the Skew Rabbit. One thing I have learned from guys like Jim and Derek, is it makes life much simpler to leave specific planes set up to do very specific work. It helps to understand what job each plane is best at. The specific work and skill set of the person using the tools are other considerations.

[Patrick Chase]

Patrick...that post was from the original plane. I sent that one back. The new one I have doesn’t move at all. The reason for my repost was I thought that the fence shouldn’t rotate on the rod, but maybe it just does...

Thanks Derek...I believe the LV plane is a better overall one as well. I believe that I will just keep this one and be fine with it.

Ah, sorry for my confusion.

Yes, the fence is supposed to rotate on the rod. That's a fundamental limitation of all single-rod arrangements. It's harmless because the plane of the fence (i.e. the plane along which it registers to the wood) doesn't change as it rotates. As Derek says, the fence will always extended under the plane body in normal use anyway.

[lowell holmes]

Darn! another tool that I do not have. Oh Well!

[Kevin Smira]

Not necessarily using this for rabbets...really, the main reason I bought it was for the “140 trick” for handcut dovetails...

[Patrick Chase]

Not necessarily using this for rabbets...really, the main reason I bought it was for the “140 trick” for handcut dovetails...

Technically the "140 trick" is nothing more than a very shallow cross-grain rabbet. The fact that you subsequently happen to use it as a guide for dovetails doesn't change what it is.