Dimensions of Lee Valley Router Plane

[Jeff Ranck]

I must be going blind or something. But I've been through the information on the Lee Valley website several times and cannot seem to figure out what the dimensions of their full size and medium router planes are. I have some dados to cut that are about 2-2 1/4" long (board is long and has several dados cut into it, but is only about 2 to 2 1/4" wide) and cannot figure out which router plane would be the one to choose for this purpose.

Anyone have any idea?

[Bill Houghton]

Huh. They used to show dimensioned drawings of their planes, under the link "Tech," but I notice that link is grayed out; I wonder why they dropped it? You might write them and ask. If you don't already own a router plane, a full-sized one is probably your best first purchase. I note that the cutting edge of an iron on the full-sized router plane is close even with the handles, while the cutting edge on the medium router plane is considerably behind them. That makes me think that, for your application, the full-sized plane would be better. But, again, Lee Valley's staff are fantastically helpful in suggesting best tool for an application.

[Brett Luna]

I'm not at home presently so I can't check the measurements of my full size router plane. But while both would work, I think I would be happier using the full size. 2-2¼" isn't really all that narrow and shouldn't pose a problem supporting the larger plane in my opinion. In cases where I do need more support and I have multiple pieces of the same dimension, I gang them up like this:

http://www.brettluna.com/img/s7/v160/p584881203-2.jpg
Click to embiggify (http://www.brettluna.com/img/s7/v160/p584881203-5.jpg)

[Chet R Parks]

Hi Jeff,
The footprint of the full size router plane is 3-9/16 x 5-9/16. The medium is 3-7/16 wide x 3 inches front to back. You didn't state the width or depth of the dados nor the type of wood type. If you taking out a wide and deep dado in hard wood I'd suggest the large router plane, as a matter if fact I go with the large in most cases just because it's easier to handle and maneuver.
Chet

[Jeff Ranck]

Hi Jeff,
... You didn't state the width or depth of the dados nor the type of wood type. ...
Chet

I guess I didn't give all the info. The board is long and has several dados about 2" long by 3/4 wide by 3/8 deep, so not big, wide or deep. The wood is walnut so not hard to work. I was worried that if the base of the large router was too wide front to back that I'd have trouble with tipping, or have trouble at either end of the board (dados are about 4" in from each end). Sounds like the ends aren't a problem. However, the router plane is larger than the board front to back. I can set up a "helper" board on either side to keep the plane level or put the two sides of the case together if I need to to make a wider platform from to back.

I'll hog most of the wood out with a chisel or some other way, so I'll just be using the router plane to get to the final depth.

I guess I don't build things with many dados in them, or at least haven't since I switched to working mostly with hand tools. Thinking about the way I used to cut dados on the table saw, I'd have benefitted from a router plane to smooth the final depth. Not sure why one hasn't found its way into my kit yet.

Well, I guess there is no time like the present.

[Chet R Parks]

Jeff,
Like the many who have responded you won't be disappointed. An big added plus is the large has a dial in depth adjustment that the medium doesn't. Have fun.
Chet

[lowell holmes]

I suggest that you cut the dado shallow on the table saw and finish it with a router plane. I think either plane
will do with this approach.

[john zulu]

I guess I didn't give all the info. The board is long and has several dados about 2" long by 3/4 wide by 3/8 deep, so not big, wide or deep. The wood is walnut so not hard to work. I was worried that if the base of the large router was too wide front to back that I'd have trouble with tipping, or have trouble at either end of the board (dados are about 4" in from each end). Sounds like the ends aren't a problem. However, the router plane is larger than the board front to back. I can set up a "helper" board on either side to keep the plane level or put the two sides of the case together if I need to to make a wider platform from to back.

I'll hog most of the wood out with a chisel or some other way, so I'll just be using the router plane to get to the final depth.

I guess I don't build things with many dados in them, or at least haven't since I switched to working mostly with hand tools. Thinking about the way I used to cut dados on the table saw, I'd have benefitted from a router plane to smooth the final depth. Not sure why one hasn't found its way into my kit yet.

Well, I guess there is no time like the present.

Doing a few dados this router will excel at. However many perhaps not. The waste chopping takes too much time. I have all the router sizes. Each has it's own application. For this operation I would say the small or medium router would be a better choice. BUT if you are to place spacers "of the same height" on the sides of the dado then the large router can work equally well. If you need only one router then I would go for the large. I have been spoilt by my own collection. I use only the small and medium as I tend to use the electric router for most of my operations.

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Jeff,

Are these going to be through dados?

For through dados the Veritas combination plane might be a one possible solution. This would then require setting up a batten as a guide.

This is one of those hand tools situations where there are a dozen ways to get the job done. For me on through dados the sides are sawn to depth and then a chisel takes out most of the waste and a router plane cleans the bottom.

If they are stopped dados, then the router may be the best choice.

Show us the tool and work when it comes to fruition.

jtk

[Jeff Ranck]

They are thorough dados. So like you said, there are a bunch of ways to get the job done. My hand tool skills are still developing so I'm somewhat confident of sawing to depth and using a chisel to take out most of the waste. I don't have the veritas combination, but do have a Stanley 45 which works pretty well. So I could set up a batten and do that, but after practicing that way a bit, it seems like a lot of setup work to cut dados, so probably isn't real efficient given that I have to cut somewhere in the neighborhood of 36 (6 case sides x 6 shelves). So I'll probably saw and chisel and router plane or resort to some sort of power tool method for the basic cut and then use the router plane to clean things up.

[john zulu]

They are thorough dados. So like you said, there are a bunch of ways to get the job done. My hand tool skills are still developing so I'm somewhat confident of sawing to depth and using a chisel to take out most of the waste. I don't have the veritas combination, but do have a Stanley 45 which works pretty well. So I could set up a batten and do that, but after practicing that way a bit, it seems like a lot of setup work to cut dados, so probably isn't real efficient given that I have to cut somewhere in the neighborhood of 36 (6 case sides x 6 shelves). So I'll probably saw and chisel and router plane or resort to some sort of power tool method for the basic cut and then use the router plane to clean things up.

At 36 dados. Chisel and saw should be fast with the dimensions you have provided. Most of the waste removal.Use a tenon saw or dozuki for the cross cuts.

[Jim Koepke]

With 36 dados to cut it might also be efficient to make a holder for the work incorporating a batten. Then you could slide the work into position, set a clamp, cut a dado, then slide the work to the next position and cut away.

jtk

[Pat Barry]

Although you could do 36 dadoes with a router plane thete must be a better tool for this job. A plow plane and batten ( edge guide) would make more sense and do a better job IMO

[Derek Cohen]

Although you could do 36 dadoes with a router plane thete must be a better tool for this job. A plow plane and batten ( edge guide) would make more sense and do a better job IMO

Hi Pat

That was my first thought. However the plough plane (e.g. Stanley #45 or Veritas Combination Plane) must have nickers to avoid spelching the side edges of the dado. This could be prevented by first striking strong lines along the sides before ploughing - however, if going to that trouble, one might as well shoot out the waste with a chisel and finish with a router plane. The plane of choice is a dado plane, which has nickers at the sides of the blade. That would make short work of the 36 dados.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[lowell holmes]

In addition to my left and right handed rabbet planes , I have the small plow plane.:)

[Pat Barry]

Hi Pat

That was my first thought. However the plough plane (e.g. Stanley #45 or Veritas Combination Plane) must have nickers to avoid spelching the side edges of the dado. This could be prevented by first striking strong lines along the sides before ploughing - however, if going to that trouble, one might as well shoot out the waste with a chisel and finish with a router plane. The plane of choice is a dado plane, which has nickers at the sides of the blade. That would make short work of the 36 dados.

Regards from Perth

Derek
I have experience with a router but not a router plane. For dadoes I have heard some folks use a saw to establish the edges, using just a chisel would yield raggedy edges (for me). Does the router plane have edge cutting ability to clean up the edges made by a chisel?