ROS 2 are way better than one

[Tom Bender]

Was visiting my brother a year ago and he asked me to refinish a tabletop. All my stuff was 500 miles away so off to the store I went. Came home with a second ROS, this one variable speed.

That project went well but the big bonus has been in my shop. I now keep 60 grit on the older sander and 320 on the variable speed one. The convenience is amazing!

My method includes sanding at most steps in a project, starting with milling. I now grab the 320 sander to see what it will not remove, switch to coarse then back to fine. My work is faster, more fun and better.

[George Bokros]

You jump from 60 grit straight to 320, that is a mighty big jump in grits. I personally would never to do that. In fact I don't go below 100 grit to start except under some serious problems and work my way to 180 and on end grain 220. 320 is a grit I reserve for between coats of finish.

[Matt Day]

Are you going from 60g to 320g in your finishing sequence?

ROS’s seem to find their way home with me. I have 4 I think.

[David Helm]

I have 4 sanders. Typically start with the one with 100 grit, switch to 120, switch to 150, switch to 180. I then change three of the sanders to 220,320 and 400. workds well for me and have to do a minimum of changes.

[William Shelley]

Same idea in a welding shop. You'll see benches with 4-5 or more grinders. Easier to just pick up a different grinder, than to stop and remove a cut-off disc and replace with a wire wheel for example.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Same idea works with routers. It's a lot easier to unplug and plug in a cord set than to change a bit.

[Tom Bender]

I'm finding the jump from 60 to 320 works fine on softer woods like Mahogany and Pine. I do quite a bit of shaping with 60 and 320 goes thru the 60 scratches easily.

[Wade Lippman]

I'm finding the jump from 60 to 320 works fine on softer woods like Mahogany and Pine. I do quite a bit of shaping with 60 and 320 goes thru the 60 scratches easily.

Wouldn't sanding be so much easier if that were true! Sadly, you could spend the rest of your life getting 60 scratches out with 320.

[Mike Chalmers]

Wouldn't sanding be so much easier if that were true! Sadly, you could spend the rest of your life getting 60 scratches out with 320.Obviously, it works good enough for the OP. No reason for him to lie about something like this.

[Wade Lippman]

Obviously, it works good enough for the OP. No reason for him to lie about something like this.

Try it; let us know how it works.
I don't think he is lying; I think his definition of "well sanded" is different than mine.

[Matt Day]

I guess it all depends on what kind of finish you’re going for. I go from 60 to 320 all the time, I just also go through 100, 150, and 220 before I get to 320.

[Bill Serino]

I guess it all depends on what kind of finish you’re going for. I go from 60 to 320 all the time, I just also go through 100, 150, and 220 before I get to 320.

Lol that’s funny.

I only hit 220 though...

I’ll go higher with finish if needed but only if needed.

[Matt Day]

I usually stop at 220 as well, just making a funny!

[Bob Vaughan]

I always thought having various sanders with various grits was standard procedure in a woodworking shop.

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[Bill Serino]

I always thought having various sanders with various grits was standard procedure in a woodworking shop.

375378

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Challenge excepted!

:)

Only takes a few seconds to swap paper. Never thought about having multiples of Sanders. Now routers on the other hand...

[Tom Bender]

This works really well on Mahogany. After milling I hit it with 320 and see what that left, grab 60 to clean that up then back to 320 for final. Sometimes the 320 sander barely stops before I have it in hand again.

I agree that for harder woods intermediate grits are needed. Wait, let me test that...

No, 60 to 320 works perfectly on White Oak and on Sugar Maple. You must be using worn out paper or something.

[Justin Ludwig]

This works really well on Mahogany. After milling I hit it with 320 and see what that left, grab 60 to clean that up then back to 320 for final. Sometimes the 320 sander barely stops before I have it in hand again.

I agree that for harder woods intermediate grits are needed. Wait, let me test that...

No, 60 to 320 works perfectly on White Oak and on Sugar Maple. You must be using worn out paper or something.
I don't have anything coarser than 80 grit. I've tried skipping grits from 80 to 180 and can't get the scratch pattern out, on any wood, without stupid amounts of time and burning up good 180 pads. 60 to 320 seems a pipe dream.

Put some dark stain and two coats of high gloss and post a pic. Then I'll be a believer.

[Bill Adamsen]

I use H&L and simply step up. Usually after using 80/100 on the wide belt, I use 120/150/180/220 (on the 3mm orbit ROS) sometimes 320 or higher depending on finish. It typically takes little time to change and provides good and fast results (removing scratch and swirl). Obviously there are lots of variables. But 60 to 320 in one step?. I am skeptical that I could get a swirl free finish (no doubt my inferior equipment) but more power to you!

[Tom Bender]

If I had to sand 5 times I'd give up woodwork. Maybe the disconnect we're having here is in the finish. Here's what I've been using for a few years.

Light woods
No stain, usually just polyurethane (utility wood for utility work)

Purpleheart, Ebony,
No finish.

Mahogany
Wipe onto bare wood a coat of dark oil based stain, wipe off. Dry overnight or two.

If any grain is raised, crocus cloth.

Second coat just in case but usually makes no difference.

Two coats of 1 pound clear shellac.

Crocus cloth to take the shine off.

Done!

[Wade Lippman]

I think Mr. Bender is just having fun with us.
Dark stain on mahogany is a good one also.