Okay, How About the Least Used Planes or Tools?

[Jim Koepke]

Steven C. Newman's thread on the Daily Seven, my thoughts ventured out toward my least used planes:

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There are a lot of planes that do not get used in my shop due to being redundant or not having been put into working order. My #55 was almost included, but it is actually used more than most of these.

Starting with the #102 at the top left, it is likely the most used of these but doesn't get used a whole lot. Next is a squirrel tail plane similar to the Stanley #100. Its companion the #100-1/2 with the curved sole does actually get some use. The big plane is an Invicta wooden plow. It used to get used before my acquisition of my first Stanley #45 given to me by my father. It is a bit cumbersome and would likely improve with a bit of fettling.

Second row on the left is a #95 edge plane. Okay it does its job, but a shooting board or a bench plane is easier for me to get a job done. The little grey plane is a Millers Falls version of the Stanley #101. There is another plane similar to this that is used regularly in the house to make shaving for the wood stove. Last, but not really the least used is a #140. Most of the time one of my other rabbet planes can do the work of this one. Many wooden rabbet planes have a skewed blade and can work from either edge.

My next post on this will include other tools that are dust collectors in my shop.

jtk

[Mike Henderson]

Biscuit joiner. Don't know why I ever bought that. And now that I have a Domino I'm even less likely to use it.

Mike

[steven c newman]

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These just sit on the shelf....
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First time I gotten shavings in a couple years......

Have a Craftsman 13" Scrollsaw......just collects dust...
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Maybe someday, I'll get to use it......

[Jim Koepke]

Have a Craftsman 13" Scrollsaw......just collects dust...

Same with mine, both of them. My handheld sabre saw does get occasional use.

There is also a 22" Sargent transitional plane that makes me wonder why it was ever purchased.

There are also a few Yankee drills that are seldom used. Maybe it is time to set up a for sale box and then figure out if there are any tools needed in my shop.

jtk

[John Gornall]

The one tool I put in storage is the sliding miter saw - great tool outside, building fences or framing but noisy and messy in the shop. In the shop I have a couple of Miller's Falls miter boxes, a Marsh miter machine, and shooting board with Veritas plane. I like the quiet and easy cleanup.

[Bruce Haugen]

Although I've used it once, the Stanley 79 that I just had to have is second on the list. It was handy that one time, adjusting a hand-cut dado, but just that once.

Tops is the Stanley 75. I've tried to use it, but a chisel works better.

[Prashun Patel]

Bad F clamps and cheap cabinet clamps. I have spent more money on regret clamps than I have on the keepers.

As far as planes go, it's a journey. So, while I now have no need for the Dunlap or cheap FrankenBaileys I shocked back to life 10 years ago, or the Ridgid Spindle sander or the ECE Emerich jack and smoother planes, they were all critical to getting me to how I currently prefer to work. Perhaps it will morph again over the next ten years.

I do find joy in having a shop with only the tools I use frequently. So, I am in the process of gifting/selling the obsoletes. But that's not to say, like the Polaroid and record player, that they won't come back into vogue in a few years...

[lowell holmes]

Well,
Harvey came through Galveston County and my tools ended up in plastic tubs. With my old man's memory, I don't remember or know what tubs and containers my toys and tools are in.
I am sure that looking at the number of containers they are all there. :)

[Phil Mueller]

I’m in the same camp as Prashun. My early on “go to” planes rarely come out...evolved from newer bevel up to vintage bevel down. My wooden planes rarely come out, but I’ll be spending some more time with them this winter and see how it goes. I also have a Stanley scraper plane that I had to have that I haven’t fiddled with enough to make it a frequent user.

As hand tools become more the norm, the compound miter saw, biscuit joiner, skill saw, 10” disk sander, and jig saw see very limited use.

Makes it all part of the fun.

[James Pallas]

I just yesterday decided that the last of my Stanley planes are going to SIL. I started using BU planes about two years ago but kept going back to the Stanley's. I decided to force the issue and commit to the BUs. I was preparing some rough cherry yesterday using my BU Jack and thought maybe I should get out my favorite #6 with a little more camber. I got it out and started to put it to use. The tote felt skinny the backlash was still there I had to get a little more over the top, which is terrible for my back. I put it down and went back to the BU Jack. Even though I had just read Ken H.s post about Norris adjusters I had no problem just reaching in with my left hand and giving it a little more iron. The decision was made right then. I haven't used a bevel down plane except for my 45 in six months. They are the orphans, time for them to go.
Jim

[Patrick Chase]

Leigh DT jig. I taught myself to hand-cut not long after getting it, and that was that.

Veritas BU Jack. It's a perfectly good plane and quite possibly the best of its breed, but I find myself using BD planes or my dedicated shooter instead, depending on the job. There are very few things the BUJack can do that one of those can't do better IMO.

[Patrick Chase]

I just yesterday decided that the last of my Stanley planes are going to SIL. I started using BU planes about two years ago but kept going back to the Stanley's. I decided to force the issue and commit to the BUs. I was preparing some rough cherry yesterday using my BU Jack and thought maybe I should get out my favorite #6 with a little more camber. I got it out and started to put it to use. The tote felt skinny the backlash was still there I had to get a little more over the top, which is terrible for my back. I put it down and went back to the BU Jack. Even though I had just read Ken H.s post about Norris adjusters I had no problem just reaching in with my left hand and giving it a little more iron. The decision was made right then. I haven't used a bevel down plane except for my 45 in six months. They are the orphans, time for them to go.
Jim

Why not switch to BD planes that have Norris adjusters and similar totes to your BUs?

Modern BU planes are wonderfully flexible and easy to use, but IMO you're leaving a fair bit of performance on the table by giving up the cap iron. If you actually found the cap iron to be too difficult/finicky/unwieldly then that might be a reason to go the BU route, but that doesn't seem to be the case?

[Brian Henderson]

Have a Craftsman 13" Scrollsaw......just collects dust....

Whereas mine gets used all the time. Just used it yesterday in fact. Have some more work today to do with it.

[James Pallas]

Why not switch to BD planes that have Norris adjusters and similar totes to your BUs?

Modern BU planes are wonderfully flexible and easy to use, but IMO you're leaving a fair bit of performance on the table by giving up the cap iron. If you actually found the cap iron to be too difficult/finicky/unwieldly then that might be a reason to go the BU route, but that doesn't seem to be the case?
Patrick, In truth I have no problem using the cap iron. The problem I have is the body mechanics. I can get really low on the tote of a BU plane, so low in fact that I often nick the lower part of my forearm on the sharp edges of the work piece. I can't seem to get there with a BD plane. I have no complaints regarding the use of the cap iron, it works great. It's a mater of inches for me. Two inches lower on the bench is a no go for me. I just have found a work around and I'm sticking to it for now.
Jim

[Frederick Skelly]

Probably that $88 Delta Tabletop Scrollsaw I bought for one project and never used again. I really hate the blade change mechanism. But of course, "I might need it some day and it's already paid for." So it sits on the shelf. Right next to a really nicely prepared Tom Bussey #606 that I got second hand, that hasn't been used since I bought my LV LAJ [Sigh].

[David Bassett]

Patrick, In truth I have no problem using the cap iron. The problem I have is the body mechanics. I can get really low on the tote of a BU plane, so low in fact that I often nick the lower part of my forearm on the sharp edges of the work piece. I can't seem to get there with a BD plane. I have no complaints regarding the use of the cap iron, it works great. It's a mater of inches for me. Two inches lower on the bench is a no go for me. I just have found a work around and I'm sticking to it for now.
Jim

IIRC- the Stanley handle has a different shape than the Veritas handles. I wonder how much that affects this for you?

You sound satisfied with your decision, but you could make replacement handles for your Stanley's or get Veritas bevel-down planes to experiment more. (You might be able to buy Veritas handles to retro fit your Stanley planes, I don't recall if LV's handle in the Stanley shape is compatible or just copies the shape.)

[Patrick Chase]

Patrick, In truth I have no problem using the cap iron. The problem I have is the body mechanics. I can get really low on the tote of a BU plane, so low in fact that I often nick the lower part of my forearm on the sharp edges of the work piece. I can't seem to get there with a BD plane. I have no complaints regarding the use of the cap iron, it works great. It's a mater of inches for me. Two inches lower on the bench is a no go for me. I just have found a work around and I'm sticking to it for now.
Jim

Makes perfect sense to me, as I have a similar preference (though it doesn't cause me pain as it apparently does for you). Have you tried the Veritas Custom BD planes with the standard/upright tote?

The traditional Stanely tote geometry (which is shared by L-N) has quite a bit of forward lean, that encourages a "high elbow" and downward-directed effort as you describe. Basically all LV BD planes have or can be configured with a more vertical tote, that favors a lower forearm position. I honestly can't tell much difference in that respect between my LV BD and BU planes (and both feel very different from my Stanley and L-N planes).

If you look at the forces and mechanics involved, what matters is the geometry of the tote and its position relative to the cutting edge. BU vs BD is at most a very secondary factor, because turning the blade upside down doesn't move the center of resistance at all. In either case it's at the cutting edge, in the plane of the sole.

The one thing you probably don't want to try is a woodie. Because those have higher totes they must have a fair bit of forward lean to keep the user's effort directed towards the cutting edge (a basic requirement for stability at start/end of cut).

One other thought, though I'm certain you've already figured this out: Mind the wear bevel. BU planes gradually lose clearance as a wear bevel develops on the back of the blade, and require more and more downforce to engage in the cut as that happens. For somebody like you that would be bad news indeed.

[Patrick Chase]

On a random (and not serious aside) I bet you'd be very good with the Veritas Bevel Up Jack Rabbet.

It has just enough flex through the midsection that you can make the iron dive into the cut a little bit if you push downward on the tote too aggressively. If you want to take a thin shaving with it then in my experience you have to focus on keeping the center of pressure as low on the tote as possible. Of course the purpose of a jack rabbet is not to take thin shavings in the first place, so it's rather irrelevant :-).

[James Pallas]

IIRC- the Stanley handle has a different shape than the Veritas handles. I wonder how much that affects this for you?

You sound satisfied with your decision, but you could make replacement handles for your Stanley's or get Veritas bevel-down planes to experiment more. (You might be able to buy Veritas handles to retro fit your Stanley planes, I don't recall if LV's handle in the Stanley shape is compatible or just copies the shape.)
Thanks David. Like I said previously, I'm done experimenting now. I'm pleased with the performance of the BU planes and just as happy with the finish I am getting. The Stanley's will be going to a good home and be used and cared for.
Jim

[James Pallas]

On a random (and not serious aside) I bet you'd be very good with the Veritas Bevel Up Jack Rabbet.

It has just enough flex through the midsection that you can make the iron dive into the cut a little bit if you push downward on the tote too aggressively. If you want to take a thin shaving with it then in my experience you have to focus on keeping the center of pressure as low on the tote as possible. Of course the purpose of a jack rabbet is not to take thin shavings in the first place, so it's rather irrelevant :-).
Patrick, I have a BU Jack rabbet. Great plane for me. Use it as a jack or short jointer on edges sometimes. Pretty agile on rabbets for its size and weight.
Jim

[steven c newman]

My ONLY BU planes are block planes. Haven't really seen or felt a need to change to BU Bench planes......Some of the Veritas handles remind me too much of late model Handyman plane handles.....
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Have no trouble holding the Stanley, Sargent, Millers Falls, and a few other Vintage handles. To change out a stable of planes, just on the "feel" of the handle? NOT.

I disliked liked a Woodriver #4 V3 so much, I went and sold it off on that auction site.....good riddance.
Had a Tablesaw for a few years.....finally decided to sell it off, as well. Wasn't even using it, why keep it.....

[Derek Cohen]

If all one were making were boxes, then all the tools not necessary for boxes would be superfluous and go unused. Now if one was making boxes and cabinet carcases, and these were all rectangular, then anything that shaped a curve (such as a spokeshave), would be superfluous and unused. What if one decided to build curved objects for a while? Would that make all the bench planes superfluous?

I have all sizes of shoulder planes. I have two that are 1-1/4" wide (a Veritas and a Norris). Neither get much, if any, use. Actually, I prefer the small 1/2" Veritas the most. Does that mean the large shoulder planes should not be considered by others? Many believe that these are the only size to get. I hardly, if ever, use a LN rabbet block plane. But it is an excellent tool ... for somebody. Similarly, my LA Jack gets little used now. A dedicated shooting plane has taken one of its roles, but then I will pull it out to clean up dovetails .. no, actually, I prefer my Veritas #7 for that (low bed and chipbreaker - best of all worlds).

I am not meaning to sound cynical when I write this (just in case it comes across that way). There are some tools that hardly get used, but I am so pleased I have them .. for when they are needed. Even the LA Jack. It is always going to be a case of "one man's meat ...".

It may be more interesting and useful to state which 10 tools you would take with you to the desert island. That is, what are the fewest number of tools could do the most tasks? If you decide to list them, you also need to explain how they can multi-task. For example, a wide shoulder plane can be used on shoulders, rebates, mouldings, cheeks, and end grain. Possibly a few more. A #5 (with a couple of blades) could be a jointer, smoother, shooter, and scrub. For furniture quality work, how many chisels do you need?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tom Stenzel]

I don't know about that Derek. Reading about the tools that everyone found least useful is interesting too. Some couldn't get anything done until they went with bevel up planes and dumped the bevel down planes. Some went the opposite way. At least everyone seems to find something that works for them.

The tool I made fun of in a previous post, a thumb plane I bought for 25 cents at a garage sale I use as a paper weight was used to put a chamfer on pressure treated boards this last summer. 140 feet of boards, 280 feet of chamfering. It was the handiest tool for the job. Before that it was the never used tool.

For Father's Day I received from my daughter:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-11-in-1-Hammer-Multi-Tool/39322162

Sometimes when you open a present you just want to shake your head. Destined to be never used... I needed to move some electrical wire. The pliers pulled the staples out and the hammer reseated them. It's been used more than I would have ever thought.

Then the least used tool was a chisel plane. Well, it was my least used tool until I gave it to someone that promised it a good home. I haven't used my dividers much but Stanley Covington seems determined to fix that problem.

-Tom

[Jim Koepke]

The problem I have is the body mechanics. I can get really low on the tote of a BU plane

It is for the reason of "body mechanics" one of my suggestions, when people ask which tool to get, is for them to try them out in person.

There are many choices when one wants a particular quality tool. It is, imo, important to find tools that are comfortable in one's hands and when used with their particular style.

jtk

[Rob Luter]

This #112 scraper plane. I searched high and low for one. I found this one without a blade, and installed a new Hock version. I honed it and turned a burr. I tested it and set it on the shelf.....where it has remained for the better part of 8 years. When I need a scraper I always reach for on of my #80s.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2644/4103267423_55043d4628_b.jpg

[Frederick Skelly]

This #112 scraper plane. I searched high and low for one. I found this one without a blade, and installed a new Hock version. I honed it and turned a burr. I tested it and set it on the shelf.....where it has remained for the better part of 8 years.

Man, I thought I was the only one who did the "just gotta have it - then never use it" routine. I realized after my last response that I also have a brand new LV Large Router Plane hanging on the wall that I haven't even sharpened, let alone used.

I feel like a real dope when I do crap like that.:o

[Chet R Parks]

The LN #140 skew block plane and the LN #9 bronze miter plane. After a test run they have been sitting in the cabinet since 93-94.
Chet

[Robert Engel]

Side rabbet plane.

After that, power hand plane and belt sander.

[Jim Koepke]

Here are more unused tools:

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Prominent in back is a Sargent Transitional Plane. This is a bit redundant to my metallic planes, so it sits colledting dust.

From the left is a combination square. There are a few of these around my shop and they seldom get used due to my preference for fixed try squares. The #59 doweling guide used to get used more often. Most of the time now my joinery doesn't use dowels. Occasionally one of the Yankee drills gets used if something is being done outside the shop and a pilot hole is desired. Most of the time an eggbeater or battery drill is used. One problem with the all metal versions, especially the one on the right is the bits are stored in the top. The nut that holds the top in position can strip out over time and then fails to hold the top closed.

Next is a #95 Butt Hinge Gauge. Its best use is if one has a lot of doors to hang using the same hinges. When doing only a couple of hinges it is quicker to use the hinges to lay out the mortises or a standard marking gauge.

Below the gauge is a style of try square that seemed useful when it was purchsed. In use it can be difficult to keep it from moving toward the 45º edge.

Continuing clockwise is a Stanley #60 double blade spoke shave. For some reason, possibly a design issue, the blades tend to slip from their setting in use.

Last is a pair of adjustable hold fasts. Before having a pair of regular holdfasts these saw a lot of use. Now these are not as easy to use as a solid hold fast.

Many years ago my favored transportation was VW micro buses and bugs. This little toy convertible was given to me by someone who knew my love of the VW. Now that all the kids are grown, it seems like it might be practical again. Though the VWs that were available cheap back in my younger days are now "collector" cars and do not come cheap.

jtk

[Frederick Skelly]

Many years ago my favored transportation was VW micro buses and bugs.

Now are you telling us that mild-mannered, grandfatherly Jim Koepke was a hippy? Really? :D :D :D
If so, you've just GOTTA post a picture "from the era". (Bathurst did. So it's your turn Jim!)

[Jim Koepke]

Now are you telling us that mild-mannered, grandfatherly Jim Koepke was a hippy? Really? :D :D :D
If so, you've just GOTTA post a picture "from the era". (Bathurst did. So it's your turn Jim!)

I am not sure one could be found from back in the day. Here is one of me before my annual haircut in spring:

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Candy, my wife, asked me to not grow a beard this winter. She says it makes me look older. Not being much into vanity if it gets too cold, one will be grown to keep my face warm.

The wooly bear caterpillars seemed extra furry this year which tends to indicate a cold one this year. Candy thinks wearing a muffler should be enough. She isn't the one who has to walk about 1/4 mile round trip to get the mail.

Found one from the late 1960s:

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Another student took this and posted it online.

jtk

[Brian Holcombe]

Well your eyebrows still look the same Jim https://www.sawmillcreek.org/clientscript/ckeditor/plugins/smiley/images/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
For me it is the chisel plane, totally useless.

[Frederick Skelly]

Love it! Thanks Jim!

[Jim Koepke]

Love it! Thanks Jim!

Fer sure man. :cool:


For me it is the chisel plane, totally useless.

Fortunately for me the Stanley shoulder planes can be converted to a chisel plane. They never worked for me either. The slightest lift on the tail and they dive in. With their wedging action caused by the blade's edge, it is difficult to not get a bit of lift on the tail end.

jtk

[Charles Bjorgen]

My plane acquisitions are not overwhelming but occasionally I'll get a plane more out of curiosity than a specific need. This came in the form of a Stanley No. 103 block plane that has what Patrick Leach describes as a "cheesy lever adjustment mechanism." I agree with his assessment. I actually picked up my version from the auction site. Can't recall what I paid but it wasn't much. I was more interested because I already owned the Lee Nielsen 102 block plane and loved it! Here's the 103 Stanley (standard angle) which shows the adjustment lever and the second photo shows it along side the LN low angle version which I do use.

[Noah Magnuson]

Another vote for chisel plane (LN even). That thing has only done damage to anything it touched and takes a bunch of fiddling to get it just right. I bought it thinking it would be great for glue lines etc. There are many easier ways to accomplish this including just a freehand chisel. If properly dialed in, I could see it being useful in a cabinet shop for trimming veneer edging, but that is about it.

[Matt Lau]

i vote for the Japan Woodworker ebony "instrument maker's planes."

The steel takes a long time to sharpen, the adjusting system is finicky, and it just doesn't feel that good in the hand.
I'm looking forward to one day making a proper finger plane....need to clean up my office more.

[ken hatch]

My vote goes to my Stanley 45. No need for a photo because if you have seen one Stanley 45 you've seen all of them. I picked it up from the "Old Hippy" tool seller in Waterboro, Maine back in the mid '80's. That's over 30 years of being moved and taking space in my shop and it has never been used to complete a project. My guess it hasn't been out of its pretty box in 8 or 10 years. Pretty much the definition of least used plane.

BTW, back in the day I had three must stops when we were in Maine, the Old Hippy tool sellers place, LN's, and the GSD puppy farm for some puppy love.

ken

[James Pallas]

Purchased in the 1970's or 80's and looks brand new. There's a reason for it. Maybe someday, like marking a mortise underwater or something. Jim

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Have been lucky I guess. My least used are my No. 5 Stanley planes. Work fine, I just like the other jack better. Some specialty tools get used less, but I knew that when I bought them.

Ken, how do you make grooves? That is where my Sargent combination gets the most use.

[ken hatch]

Have been lucky I guess. My least used are my No. 5 Stanley planes. Work fine, I just like the other jack better. Some specialty tools get used less, but I knew that when I bought them.

Ken, how do you make grooves? That is where my Sargent combination gets the most use.

Nicholas,

Dedicated plow like either my Sandusky wood stock plow or the LV small plow plane. Either works better with less monkey motion.

ken

[James Pallas]

My vote goes to my Stanley 45. No need for a photo because if you have seen one Stanley 45 you've seen all of them. I picked it up from the "Old Hippy" tool seller in Waterboro, Maine back in the mid '80's. That's over 30 years of being moved and taking space in my shop and it has never been used to complete a project. My guess it hasn't been out of its pretty box in 8 or 10 years. Pretty much the definition of least used plane.

BTW, back in the day I had three must stops when we were in Maine, the Old Hippy tool sellers place, LN's, and the GSD puppy farm for some puppy love.

ken
Ken, You may want to save that 45 for your traveling kit. Takes up a lot less space than the seven planes to replace it.:)
Jim

[Rob Luter]

My plane acquisitions are not overwhelming but occasionally I'll get a plane more out of curiosity than a specific need. This came in the form of a Stanley No. 103 block plane that has what Patrick Leach describes as a "cheesy lever adjustment mechanism." I agree with his assessment. I actually picked up my version from the auction site. Can't recall what I paid but it wasn't much. I was more interested because I already owned the Lee Nielsen 102 block plane and loved it! Here's the 103 Stanley (standard angle) which shows the adjustment lever and the second photo shows it along side the LN low angle version which I do use.

I had a #103 that I used frequently. It had been well fettled and the blade honed to a razor edge. It was nice for a fine shaving as the mouth was very tight. It saw service for easing corners and edges mostly. I sold it to another Creeker and replaced it with the LN102. I like the LN102, but it would be a much better plane with a tighter mouth. I think the clearance is excessive for a low angle plane.

[ken hatch]

Ken, You may want to save that 45 for your traveling kit. Takes up a lot less space than the seven planes to replace it.:)
Jim


Jim,

I expect you could be correct if I were carrying all seven planes, but then I'd have to figure out how to make it work.:p

At my stage of life sometimes figuring out how to turn on the new oven is a little much.

ken

P.S. After this many years I expect it will hang around to the end. There are at least good memories of flights to Maine and morning coffee and cookies on Camden's harbor that seeing the box brings back.

[Charles Bjorgen]

Hi Rob — Before I shot the photos for my above post I played around with the Stanley 103. My basic complaint is that it is hard to get a fine adjustment with the lever. I might try using a hammer instead to see if that works. The blade is sharp and I was finally able to do some chamfering and end grain with it. The LN 102 is just such an easier plane to set up, although both are small and handy. The open mouth has never bothered me. As I said, the 103 was a curiosity purchase for me.

[lowell holmes]

Oh wow:confused:
I have one of those pretty brass planes, but since Harvey came through I don't have the foggiest notion of where it is.

[Rob Luter]

Hi Rob — Before I shot the photos for my above post I played around with the Stanley 103. My basic complaint is that it is hard to get a fine adjustment with the lever. I might try using a hammer instead to see if that works. The blade is sharp and I was finally able to do some chamfering and end grain with it. The LN 102 is just such an easier plane to set up, although both are small and handy. The open mouth has never bothered me. As I said, the 103 was a curiosity purchase for me.

Yup, the 103 takes some tweaking. I used the lever to get close and a small hammer to fine tune. Once I had "the spot" I locked it down good and tight.

[Gary Herrmann]

Power tool? Definitely my biscuit joiner. Need to sell that thing.

My least used plane is probably my Stanley nbr 20. I love it, but just haven't been doing much curved work lately.

[steven c newman]

Took me a while, but...the least used tool in the shop would be a tablesaw.....haven't even had one for a couple of years, now.

[Jim Koepke]

Took me a while, but...the least used tool in the shop would be a tablesaw.....haven't even had one for a couple of years, now.

How about keeping this to tools that are actually in one's shop. My last use of a table saw was so long ago it is no longer a memory. It may have been in a junior high school general shop class. There has never been one in my shop.

There are plenty of tools that would qualify as least used if nonexistent tools are thrown in. Every tool that isn't in my shop would qualify for a least used tool.

My inquiry is only for those that are owned and in one's kit or shop but just didn't work out or were replaced by something that does the job better.

jtk

[steven c newman]

With so little room in my shop.....anything that is never used, is sold off. Need the space for tools I DO use....Parted out an old lathe, as I no longer use it.....some of it is still sitting in the shop.....

[Andrew Seemann]

Least used tools by type, not counting dupes of the same tool (like multiple #4s and #5s and #9 1/2s) or tools in progress of restoration, or tools with a very specific purpose, like a lathe or a carving gouge.

Stationary tools: My 6" Jet jointer. It's really to small in width and length to be useful. All the other big tools in the shop (other than the lathe) get regular use, but the jointer usually just holds up the kraft paper dispenser. I find it easier to use a #5 or #40 to roughly face joint (basically take out the high spots) a board to be run through the planer and it works on boards wider than 6 inches. For edge jointing long boards I draw a straight line, cut it on the bandsaw and hit it with a #8 to even it out and then rip the opposing edge with the table saw.

Portable electrics: Corded drills. Just don't have much use for them in woodworking anymore, carpentry and metal work yes, but not woodworking. Cordless drills and drivers have supplanted them. After that, probably the router. It gets used, but I've always hated the noise and dust.

Planes: Probably the low angle block plane. I got it because it sounded like you were supposed to have one, but I never found much use for it. Regular block planes seem to suit me better. The more special purpose ones don't get used as often as block and bench planes, but they are handy when you need them: the 78, skew rabbet, side rabbet, circular plane, router plane, etc.

Chisels: Pigsticker mortice. I broke the tip of my 1/4 inch one long enough ago that I don't remember when and still haven't fixed it. I don't remember if the 3/8 is even sharp. It's just easier to use other chisels or set up the hollow chisel.

Other hand tools: Folding ruler, tape measures are just so much more convenient. Double marking gauge and knife scribers, I've reached the age where a pencil line I can see is just more useful. Brace and bits, I still use some of them, but less and less. And yet for some reason I have 4 sets....