1st NE bowl - question

[Thomas Wilson80]

This is my first attempt at a NE bowl (just over 9" from a walnut log) - as I was turning I was trying to be careful but a small chunk of bark broke off (seen in the first photo at the bottom). what do you do when that happens? Is it ruined or can I strip all the bark off (though likely wouldn't look great).

Any advice on how to avoid this in the future? Other comments/critiques are welcome. Thanks

[Paul Williams]

It happens and you have several options. Glue it back on if you can find the piece. As rough as walnut bark is you might paint or otherwise darken the rim where the piece is missing and it might not be noticeable. I have done this several times. Strip all of the bark and darken the rim. It is a good looking bowl and I wouldn't be too concerned about the missing piece.

I often coat the joint between the bark and the sap wood with either shellac or super glue before hollowing out the inside.

[John K Jordan]

This is my first attempt at a NE bowl (just over 9" from a walnut log) - as I was turning I was trying to be careful but a small chunk of bark broke off (seen in the first photo at the bottom). what do you do when that happens? Is it ruined or can I strip all the bark off (though likely wouldn't look great).
Any advice on how to avoid this in the future? Other comments/critiques are welcome. Thanks

Wow, a pretty nice job, especially for that lathe and more-especial as your first try!

Did you find the piece of bark? Lots of people glue the piece back in the spot. Some go so far as to cut a piece of bark from elsewhere to fit and glue that on. Some people will apply thin CA glue as the turning progresses to try to keep the bark.

For the future: Use wood from a tree cut when it is dormant in the dead of the winter. Evidently something in or between the inner bark/cambium layer is softer and wetter and weaker during the growing season and gets tougher in the winter.
Google will happily provide plenty of reading: https://www.preservation-solutions.com/will-bark-stay-wood/

JKJ

[David Delo]

My vote is to leave it as is and finish it. You have done a sweet piece Thomas.

[robert baccus]

Really nice piece--either way it will look nice--no rules here.

[Rodney W Smith]

This is my first attempt at a NE bowl (just over 9" from a walnut log) - as I was turning I was trying to be careful but a small chunk of bark broke off (seen in the first photo at the bottom). what do you do when that happens? Is it ruined or can I strip all the bark off (though likely wouldn't look great).

Any advice on how to avoid this in the future? Other comments/critiques are welcome. Thanks
Nice balance.

[Dave Carey]

My vote is with David Delo - leave it as is and finish it. Well done, it looks beautiful.

[daryl moses]

It happens..........If you find the missing piece I would CA it back on, if not just leave it the way it is and maybe darken the area that is missing.
I can find a flaw in just about anything I turn but most people never see it or think it was done like that on purpose.
Nice piece, looking forward to seeing it finished.

[William C Rogers]

Nice job. I've always found the piece and glued it back. I've even glued pieces to build up.

[Peter Blair]

As others have said gluing on the piece is the first choice but if you can't find it gently soften the area to make it look a little more natural then 'paint' it with a black felt pen. Hard to see the difference when completed.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I would go and see my cutoffs, If I can’t find the broken out piece, take a piece of the bark and cut and sand it down to a close fit, maybe square the broken out spot some for an easier fit.

I know it would bother me every time I’d look at the piece that I didn’t try to fix it, it’s just me I suppose ;)

[Bob Bergstrom]

I would go and see my cutoffs, If I can’t find the broken out piece, take a piece of the bark and cut and sand it down to a close fit, maybe square the broken out spot some for an easier fit.

I know it would bother me every time I’d look at the piece that I didn’t try to fix it, it’s just me I suppose ;)

I’ve done the same as Leo. I call it cadaver bark. Find a section that matches the grain pattern (end grain bark or side grain bark) carve the rim shape to match the candium layer of the missing area. Use medium or thick super glue to glue it on leaving it proud on the interior and exterior. Sand it down to match the thickness. I have a YouTube video posted that titled “cutting a nature end bowl cleanly”. I lose the bark in the video and talk about ways to replace it. You can search it under “Windy City Woodturners”

[Brice Rogers]

Like Bob and Leo, I've had good luck with "cadaver" bark (good analogy, Bob). I've even had good luck gluing in the light colored section between the cambium and the outer bark. The repairs are hard to find by even me, who knows what happened.
To the original poster: nice looking bowl.

[Thomas Wilson80]

Thanks for all the responses/comments. I searched but couldn't find the piece. I tried gluing another piece in but it didn't stick but the glue darkened the area and it blends a lot better. Maybe I'll try a better fitting cadaver piece if I can make it look right. It was a lot of fun to turn....I think I need a bigger lathe!

[John K Jordan]

... It was a lot of fun to turn....I think I need a bigger lathe!

Oh, no. Admitting that is the first step towards ruin. Next thing you know it will be walls full of tools, drawers full of chucks, a wood collection addiction, multiple chain saws, sawmill, truck, trailer and bobcat, a bigger shop, and a sad lonely TV that never gets watched. (I know all this from experience :))

I wasn't turning long before I came to the same realization. When, not if, you get your new lathe I recommend holding on to the mini along with one chuck to fit. That lathe is perfect to haul places and to loan. I know that from experience too!

Don' forget to post photos of the next one!

JKJ

[robert baccus]

The question is, is a divorce or big lathe cheaper??? You can always buy a few new tools now and then to train the Bride and sooth your ego.

[Thomas Wilson80]

Thanks for the comments. From what I've read on prior posts, for finishing I was going to do danish oil (including the bark to stabilize it). Does that sound ok? Comments/advice welcome as always.
tom

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Thanks for the comments. From what I've read on prior posts, for finishing I was going to do danish oil (including the bark to stabilize it). Does that sound ok? Comments/advice welcome as always.
tom

I never oil the bark, as it will soak a lot of oil up and that will take a very long time to harden up IMO.

What I normally do is to very carefully soak thin CA into the exact cambium location to fasten the bark better to the wood.

My finish is Polymerized Tung Oil, (I get it at Lee Valley), and wipe a couple of coats on the wood only.

374086

[Bob Bergstrom]

I also use thin super glue on the bark. When I have formed the desired outside shape, I will soak the rim surface with Titebond thin super glue. Upon cutting the interior to below the rim I will stop the lathe and soak the inside of the rim bark. This process helps to retain the bark when finishing the bottom cuts. I usually turn my natural edge bowls to 5/16” or less and microwave them. Some will separate the bark from the candium layer so I use 5 minute epoxy with brown chalk mixed in. Carpenter’s line chalk works well. Mix black and red and the result is a dark brown.

[Thomas Wilson80]

Well, this is after 3 coats of DO then wiped down with 000 steel wool. It feels really smooth without any ridges but the DO made it a little yellowish. I read on a prior post that an initial coat of shellac will prevent that (maybe next time I'll try that).

I tried a cadaver piece of bark but had a really hard time getting a good fit as the top of the bowl was not flat at that area and I didn't dare smooth out the actual bowl. I finally got it pretty good but after gluing it in it seems to have moved as the wood/bark still wasn't fully dry (you can see it at the top right of the first photo) but I think it looks better with it and really isn't noticeable unless you look closely....I'll just give it to my mom for Christmas - she always thought all of my hideous childhood projects were great!!

Comments/advice/suggestions always appreciated. Merry Christmas everyone!
tom

[Bob Bergstrom]

Well, this is after 3 coats of DO then wiped down with 000 steel wool. It feels really smooth without any ridges but the DO made it a little yellowish. I read on a prior post that an initial coat of shellac will prevent that (maybe next time I'll try that).

I tried a cadaver piece of bark but had a really hard time getting a good fit as the top of the bowl was not flat at that area and I didn't dare smooth out the actual bowl. I finally got it pretty good but after gluing it in it seems to have moved as the wood/bark still wasn't fully dry (you can see it at the top right of the first photo) but I think it looks better with it and really isn't noticeable unless you look closely....I'll just give it to my mom for Christmas - she always thought all of my hideous childhood projects were great!!

Comments/advice/suggestions always appreciated. Merry Christmas everyone!
tom

if there are gaps I mix up some 5 min epoxy with brown chalk mixed in. Once set I power sand the sides of the bark to match the thickness of the rim wall.