Making Krenov-type legs without a bandsaw

[Gene Davis]

A Krenov leg, as James made one, begins as a square blank maybe 2x2 inches, and is marked on two sides with a gentle inside curve, then bandsawn. Planes, spokeshaves, and scrapers finish it.

I'm paring down all the power tools and the 14" Delta bandsaw is sold. How does one go about cutting a Krenovian leg with all hand tools?

I thought marking it out, then carefully cutting with a saw every inch or so to just shy of the line, then going at the blank with a large chisel, running downhill, might get most of the waste away. Never cut the saw kerf away.

Then the spokeshave.

But what would you do?

[Bill Houghton]

I've used the technique you describe, and it works well. If it's a very gentle curve, a drawknife might be faster for the rough work. The kerf-and-trim technique's really optimal for deeper curves.

Adding to thoughts on the drawknife: there's a fairly definite technique with the drawknife, but the knife will teach you. Roughing cuts are often short, with the wrists locked and the upper arms and shoulders doing the pulling in abrupt, choppy motions. You can then transition to paring cuts as you approach the line. On the right wood, I can shave it smooth as a baby's butt, although I'd never try it on an actual baby. Some folks like bevel up or down, depending on what they're doing; I tend to keep it down all the time.

[Phil Mueller]

Your method would certainly work.

I purchased a bow saw for things just like this. It’s performed well even on a curve I needed to cut in 4 1/2” stock.

[Brian Holcombe]

Draw knife, works very very fast.

[Phil Mueller]

Brian, I have contemplated picking up a draw knife for some time. It seems, from what I’ve gathered from various videos, etc., that it excells with straight grained wood. IF, the material has extensive run out or reversing grain, will it still do the job?

[Brian Holcombe]

Legs should be straight grained, but to answer your question if there is run out you will find it rapidly. I am careful to align the grain when I prepare stock for riving.

[Ron Patrick]

You could always make multiple saw kerfs down to the line (or just above the line to be safe) and use a chisel to break out the hunks( I would keep these pretty small), then finish up with spokeshave and scraper. This YouTube video for a chair scraper that would work well for this purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRzhppR53fc&feature=youtu.be

Ron

[john zulu]

I've used the technique you describe, and it works well. If it's a very gentle curve, a drawknife might be faster for the rough work. The kerf-and-trim technique's really optimal for deeper curves.

Adding to thoughts on the drawknife: there's a fairly definite technique with the drawknife, but the knife will teach you. Roughing cuts are often short, with the wrists locked and the upper arms and shoulders doing the pulling in abrupt, choppy motions. You can then transition to paring cuts as you approach the line. On the right wood, I can shave it smooth as a baby's butt, although I'd never try it on an actual baby. Some folks like bevel up or down, depending on what they're doing; I tend to keep it down all the time.

The drawknife is my definite choice for this job. Even faster than bandsaw at certain cuts.

[Mike Holbrook]

I think my copy of Peter Galberts book “ Chairmaker’s Notebook” is at the cabin, my new home. Anyone interested in working with hand tools who does not have a copy of this book is missing out. This book is destined to be a classic reference. Galbert is an acomplished artist and drew countless illustrations, himself, in his book. These illustrations succed at a level only an acomplished artist who understands exactly what the illustration needs to show could.

Galbert has a technigue he teaches that involves making a notch in the blank. The drawnife is used, more like a froe, to split/carve off sizable pieces of wood. The technique may entail using the drawnife towards the notch, using it as a stop. Many old drawnives have hammer marks on the top, suggesting that in years past some people used them as knives and froes. Certainly a small froe or axe might be a better choice for larger stock removal than ones drawknife. I guess, back in the day, people used what they had.

[Bill Houghton]

You could always make multiple saw kerfs down to the line (or just above the line to be safe) and use a chisel to break out the hunks( I would keep these pretty small), then finish up with spokeshave and scraper. This YouTube video for a chair scraper that would work well for this purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRzhppR53fc&feature=youtu.be

Ron

Which was Gene's original idea; but thanks for the YouToob, which adds additional ideas.

[Mike Holbrook]

I am working on legs for a saw bench/stool, which are currently 2x2 red oak. Thus far I have just used a plane with a good deal of camber to remove the wood. I am attempting to make octagonal legs though, which may entail less taper in the legs. Going a little slower may actually help to ultimately end up with matching legs.

I just bought an ECE scrub plane which I am anxious to try as a tool for tapering square and octaganal chair, bench and stool legs. I am also working on my hand/carpenter axe skills. Plane, drawknife, hand axe would be old school methods. I sometimes split pieces off with an axe, froe or wedge and a small sledge hammer or heavy mallet. I have exceptionally sharp wedges which make it possible to split off more precise pieces of wood, assuming the grain runs straight. Which is why I like working from split logs.