replaced fluorescent lights with led's

[Jerome Stanek]

I just replaced my old 8 foot florescent light bulbs with new LED bulbs that do not need a ballast. Boy are they bright and nice no more humming and real easy to change over. I ordered them on Tuesday and they arrived on Thursday. Fast delivery and on orders over $99 free shipping. Each bulb was only $17.99 here is the site I ordered them from Green Light Depot

https://greenlightdepot.com/collections/led-tube-lights/products/8ft-36w-led-linear-tube-fa8-socket-etl?variant=5255880441894

[Art Mann]

I am building a new shop and I have been researching LED shop light fixtures. My electrician told me the least expensive route is to buy fluorescent fixtures, ballast and all, and use LED retrofit tubes instead. I looked a lot and discovered he was correct. Dedicated LED fixtures are more expensive and put out less light than comparably priced T-8 fluorescent fixtures with retrofit tubes.

[Jim Becker]

That actually makes a lot of sense, Art, and you don't even need "expensive" fixtures since the LEDs don't really care like fluorescent tubes do, such as with temps. Half of my LED lighting in my shop is plug-and-play retrofit LED-"tubes" and the other half are LED fixtures. (bought inexpensively from Costco in both cases) Sometimes, I think that I have the sun in there. :) I actually just bought two more of the fixtures as they were on sale for a net $19.95 each in a two pack...these will replace the last two, crusty old T12 lights in some dark corners.

Jerome, being able to use direct wire LED-"tubes" can be a money saver for sure.

[Art Mann]

The ballast is an expense that isn't necessary. Why would fixtures that include one be less expensive?

[Curt Harms]

The ballast is an expense that isn't necessary. Why would fixtures that include one be less expensive?

It seems logic and marketing/pricing are strangers sometimes.

[George Bokros]

I have a bunch of the old fluorescent lights in my shop, not ones that take the new T-8 bulbs, and am running out of replacement tubes. Is there an LED option of will I need to purchase new fixtures?

Thanks

[Ole Anderson]

I have a bunch of the old fluorescent lights in my shop, not ones that take the new T-8 bulbs, and am running out of replacement tubes. Is there an LED option of will I need to purchase new fixtures?

Thanks Just rip out the ballast and insert direct wire 4' LED bulbs. T8 bulbs use the same "tombstones" as the old T12's, so they don't have to be changed out. I have installed 3 cases of these (at church) with no bad ones: https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/192824/PLT-10848.html

[Jerome Stanek]

I have a bunch of the old fluorescent lights in my shop, not ones that take the new T-8 bulbs, and am running out of replacement tubes. Is there an LED option of will I need to purchase new fixtures?

Thanks

What size are they. 1 pin or 2 Green lights have both I am changing out 8 ft 1 pin and 4 ft 2 pin with bulbs that bypass the ballast as long as the pins work you can use them

[Jim Becker]

The ballast is an expense that isn't necessary. Why would fixtures that include one be less expensive?
Mass marketing prices sometimes affect that kind of thing...especially for the units with very cheap ballasts. If you just want/need the fixture (metal parts, tombstones, cord) to compliment some relatively inexpensive direct wire LED "tubes", sometimes...buy the el-cheapo shop lights works out financially.

[Bob Bouis]

You can often find used commercial fluorescent fixtures with bad or old ballasts for very cheap on Craigslist.

[Ben Rivel]

Was just at Home Depot and they had Phillips 4ft 2100 Lumen 5000K T8 LED replacement tubes in a 10 pack for $50. Individually for $7.

[Julie Moriarty]

The ballast is an expense that isn't necessary. Why would fixtures that include one be less expensive?

When we would have to fix fluorescent fixtures gone bad, we'd just buy new because it was considerable cheaper than replacing the ballast. Even with 2x4 troffers, installing new was cheaper. When the new electronic ballasts were all the rage, we'd be tossing out the old troffers and installing new ones by the truckload. Sounds crazy but manufacturers had it priced so new troffers were cheaper than new ballasts.

[Dennis McCullen]

You can often find used commercial fluorescent fixtures with bad or old ballasts for very cheap on Craigslist.

I realize this is an old thread, but in case there are some folks just getting around to the change from fluorescent tubes to led fixtures and or bulbs, I want to offer a caution. I was the beneficiary of five (5) 4-bulb, 4 ft T-8 troffers from a nephew/electrician when I built the shop 4 years ago. I removed the old ballasts and replaced with commercial ones at $11 each. I also painted the interior reflective area with "chrome" paint and left off the diffuser. Three of these sit on framing 8-1/2 ft off the floor and two of them are roughly 10 ft off the floor hanging on chain. I also replaced all of the bulbs with high output fluorescent bulbs from the Phillips Alto line. I get about 10,000 lumens from the four 32W bulbs or close to 80 lumens per Watt. I have several 4 ft 2-bulb shop lights and I also used keyless ceramic fixtures in some areas of the shop where "general" lighting is needed, but not the high intensity required for fine work and tool set up. MY POINT - I am seeing a lot of shop lights (typical 4 ft hanging fixture with two led rows) offered for sale that only equal the efficiency of fluorescent bulbs. There are some led tubes that can replace fluorescent bulbs but some require bypassing the ballast while others do not. I am just beginning to see some led tubes that use only half of the wattage (13-16W) to create roughly 2500 lumens. Be sure to look at the lumen output and lumens per Watt of electricity. I see examples of 2-bulb led shop lights for as little as $20-25 each but they only put out 3200-3500 lumens, a significant reduction (30%) in actual light if you are accustomed to 5200 lumens at certain critical shop areas. Save yourself some disappointment and do your homework; the technology is moving fast. I changed from Compact fluorescent bulbs (self-ballasted CFL or curly bulbs) in the ceramic fixtures to led bulbs and I get a bit less light, but still enough to do what is needed in those areas. I invested about $30 each in the 4-bulb troffers and have enjoyed "operating room" brightness beneath them for four years. I will switch to led tubes when the lumens and price are right; that time is fast approaching as I see 150 lumens per Watt at hand.

[Frank Pratt]

Comparing the lumen output of a conventional light source (be it fluorescent, incandescent, or HID) is like comparing apples to peanuts. The LED source is putting out all its lumens straight out the face of the chip, whereas other sources are relying on fixture optics to direct the light from all around the source to the desired direction. Fixture optics can absorb a tremendous amount of the lumens produced by the source.

The exception to this is a bare bulb in a keyless lamp holder, because none of the light is affected by reflectors or lenses.

I think if you replaced the lamps in one of your 2x4 troffers with 14W - 18W LED tubes, you would be surprised to find that the net light output is improved.

[Jim Andrew]

I replaced all the bulbs in my troffers with ebay LED bulbs a year or so ago. Light in the shop was increased, and I removed all the ballasts, with the idea of increasing the insulation in my attic. Not one bulb has failed.

[Ole Anderson]

One reason for the move to LED's from fluorescent is to use a product that does not use mercury which becomes an issue at disposal time. Or if you drop one and it shatters.

[Robert Engel]

I've read many posts on this subject and done a little research.

So after giving this a lot of thought, both at my office and my shop, with approximately 30 8' fixtures at the shop and over 60 4' at my office, it a pretty major investment for what I have determined is a moderate return, the major tradeoff being better light -- IMO.

From a strictly economic POV I just don't see it paying off. $8/bulb for the old 8' T12's. Had to guess, I'd say they last an average of 5-6yrs (I have some I know are well over 10 yrs old). I have replaced the occasional ballast over the years, but can't even remember the last one. I know its been at least 5 years. I have some that I know are 25 yrs old). So that's a non issue for me.

I know the electricity savings can be calculated and I haven't done that, but I'm not seeing how its cost efficient to do it. Throwing out something that works and replacing with something that works a little better is tough decision process.

No question building a new shop, I'd go LED.

Please enlighten me LOL

[Darcy Warner]

I bought 50w led high bay lights with integrated shades that just screw into a conventional keyless fixture like a normal light for 8.50 each off Ebay. I bought 150w ones just like them, but chain mount and corded for 26 bucks each. Cheap led lights are out there and I am convinced all LEDs are made in about a handful of Chinese factories anyway.

[Frank Pratt]

Cheap led lights are out there and I am convinced all LEDs are made in about a handful of Chinese factories anyway.

Probably true, but quality varies wildly in CRI, color uniformity, lumen depreciation and efficiency. LED chips are made in batches & then each and every chip is tested according to CRI & color temperature and sorted; a process known as 'binning'. The good ones go into expensive fixtures & lamps & the rejects go into the cheap stuff.

The lamp & fixture manufactures that use these chips also affect the quality. If they cheap out on thermal management then there is premature lumen depreciation and color shifting. Driver quality also varies. So a cheap fixture that is supposed to have 50,000 hour LD70 rating ends up with a fraction of that and all sorts of nasty color shifting. But by then the warranty has run out or the company is no longer in business.

The LED market is still very much the wild west.

[John Isgren]

I just outfitted my new shop with 9 - 8ft fixtures. Each fixture takes 4 LED bulbs (13 watt ea). I purposely went with removable tubes instead of integrated fixtures so it is easy to replace one if any problems without having to pull the whole fixture out. So far I am very pleased and it is super bright with very even light!

406738

[Justin Rapp]

I have a mish-mosh of 9 or 10 el-cheapo florescent shop lights (two bulb 4 foot) in my shop. Some of them are now humming and I have run low on replacement bulbs. Time to upgrade to LED. Has anyone tried using any of the LED shop lights offered on Amazon, such as Sunco LED Utility Shop Lights or OOOLED Shop Lights? I get that I can buy a bulb and re-wire/remove the ballast on my existing fixtures but would still have a mish-mosh of various fixtures with crappy tombstone bulb mounts

[Darrell Bade]

It would be great if the wonderful world of LED lighting was all it was promoted to be instead of short life for many fixtures, lamps working irradically after a shorter period of life by far than they claim. As one poster said, the components of many brands are not of good quality. After experimenting and changing fixtures at work I have never been impressed enough to change any at home. Not that great of a cost savings and my flourescents work very well.

[Rollie Meyers]

There is a problem when going the ballast delete route and the existing fixture uses Leviton lampholders, there are these bits of info, stating their lampholders should not be directly connected to the branch circuit.

https://www.leviton.com/sites/REST/controller/LCDownloadController/download/PK-93480-10-02-0J-W.pdf?docurl=/en/docs/PK-93480-10-02-0J-W.pdf


https://www.uslamp.com/Leviton_LED_Retrofit_Position_2012.pdf

The NEC does require that manufacturers instructions be followed, not doing so, means work is not meeting code. I do not know if other manufacturers have the same limitations as Leviton.

[Pete Staehling]

I put in 4' two tube LED fixtures from Costco almost 4 years ago. They have been trouble free, the lighting is pleasant to work in, and they were cheap enough that I would not have wanted to bother rewiring fixtures. I forget what brand name they were sold under (Feit maybe?), but I have been very satisfied.

[Justin Rapp]

looks like Costco still says the Feit shop lights, 2 for 60. a little more $ than the ones on amazon but if the quality is good, it's worth it. I agree it's not worth a re-wire to save some money using an old fixture with crappy tombstone mounts.

[Justin Rapp]

I just replaced the lights in my shop today with Sunco 4ft LED shop lights. 5000K, 4100 Lumens with frosted lens. They have models in different K values and either frosted or clear lens. The clear lens you can see the leds and they are 4500L instead of 4100, but might hurt your eyes if you look at them directly.

Anyway - the transition in my shop is amazing. I went from a mix-match of strip lights and florescent bulbs of various color temps and age. A 6 pack of the lights came out the $22.50 per light from Amazon. It's a no brainer compared to re-wiring the old lights.

[Sam Murdoch]

I just replaced the lights in my shop today with Sunco 4ft LED shop lights. 5000K, 4100 Lumens with frosted lens. They have models in different K values and either frosted or clear lens. The clear lens you can see the leds and they are 4500L instead of 4100, but might hurt your eyes if you look at them directly.

Anyway - the transition in my shop is amazing. I went from a mix-match of strip lights and florescent bulbs of various color temps and age. A 6 pack of the lights came out the $22.50 per light from Amazon. It's a no brainer compared to re-wiring the old lights.


I have done EXACTLY the same thing this week after having been inspired by some other recent LED shop light threads. After a few hours of studying options I came to the same conclusion. My 6 pack will arrive tomorrow. Cool!

Sam

[Marshall Harrison]

I am building a new shop and I have been researching LED shop light fixtures. My electrician told me the least expensive route is to buy fluorescent fixtures, ballast and all, and use LED retrofit tubes instead. I looked a lot and discovered he was correct. Dedicated LED fixtures are more expensive and put out less light than comparably priced T-8 fluorescent fixtures with retrofit tubes.

That's what I did. I already had the fluorescents install so I just bought the led tubes that work with existing fixtures/ballasts. Awesome light output. I replaced half of mine to make sure I liked the change. Now its time to do the others and may also do the ones in my kitchen.

[Justin Rapp]

I have done EXACTLY the same thing this week after having been inspired by some other recent LED shop light threads. After a few hours of studying options I came to the same conclusion. My 6 pack will arrive tomorrow. Cool!

Sam

Sam,

Sounds like you ordered the same set? You won't be disappointed. I put the lights in the same place as the old ones and now all the dark spots in the shop are gone. Maybe my woodworking will improve now that I can see what i am doing :) I realized I need 1 more for the light over my router table that I will turn on when needed. For now, the florescent strip light that is there is pretty new and has good bulbs in it. I might just order another 6 pack and use 4 in my garage and have a spare.

Let me know what you think when you get them installed.

tx

Justin

[Sam Murdoch]

Hi Justin - yes the very same lights. Arrived yesterday afternoon (I ordered them Thursday :cool:) and I was ready to hang them right away. I was pretty psyched about it. Anyway - was debating using the chains and s-hooks or screwing them directly to the ceiling as some suggested in the reviews I had read. I really did not want hanging lights. I finally realized that in the molded top were 4 key hole slots suitable for pan head screws. I made up a 1/4" ply x 4 wide X 50" long hole template - with a full length centerline - and, of course, carefully laid out my screw hole locations.

As I wanted the lights to line up - I used my laser to establish the straight line on the ceiling off the walls - could have used measurements and pencil marks on painters tape but the laser reached the entire 40 feet (working in the unlit shop). Holding up my screw hole template with a 3Rd Hand telescoping pole with the laser line overlaying my template centerline, made quick work of locating my screw holes in the ceiling. The light fixtures are very light so I wasn't concerned with needing to hit strapping. The screw insert in the sheetrock ceiling with some 1-1/4" # 6 pan heads have plenty of holding capacity.

This worked very well. The exact screw locations was key. Lights went up fast and right close to the ceiling for a nice neat look. Only could manage 3 before the darkness overtook my ability to use the laser in the unlit shop, so 3 more today. It was immensely satisfying though to switch on and see the 3 new fixtures - BY FAR - lighting up the shop better than ever, even though only 3, compared to the 8 double bulb fluorescent fixtures I replaced.

A big WOW from me. As has been said - "why didn't I do this sooner?"

Sam

[Justin Rapp]

Hi Justin - yes the very same lights. Arrived yesterday afternoon (I ordered them Thursday :cool:) and I was ready to hang them right away. I was pretty psyched about it. Anyway - was debating using the chains and s-hooks or screwing them directly to the ceiling as some suggested in the reviews I had read. I really did not want hanging lights. I finally realized that in the molded top were 4 key hole slots suitable for pan head screws. I made up a 1/4" ply x 4 wide X 50" long hole template - with a full length centerline - and, of course, carefully laid out my screw hole locations.

As I wanted the lights to line up - I used my laser to establish the straight line on the ceiling off the walls - could have used measurements and pencil marks on painters tape but the laser reached the entire 40 feet (working in the unlit shop). Holding up my screw hole template with a 3Rd Hand telescoping pole with the laser line overlaying my template centerline, made quick work of locating my screw holes in the ceiling. The light fixtures are very light so I wasn't concerned with needing to hit strapping. The screw insert in the sheetrock ceiling with some 1-1/4" # 6 pan heads have plenty of holding capacity.

This worked very well. The exact screw locations was key. Lights went up fast and right close to the ceiling for a nice neat look. Only could manage 3 before the darkness overtook my ability to use the laser in the unlit shop, so 3 more today. It was immensely satisfying though to switch on and see the 3 new fixtures - BY FAR - lighting up the shop better than ever, even though only 3, compared to the 8 double bulb fluorescent fixtures I replaced.

A big WOW from me. As has been said - "why didn't I do this sooner?"

Sam

Sam,

I am glad you liked them. I really think they are a great buy and best bang for the buck. I don't have sheet-rock, just the floor joists for the 1st floor of the house. I did use the chain since hanging them on the 4 key-holes would have been a royal pain. I did shorten the chain so they don't hang so low.

It is almost like instant sun in my workshop.

Justin