Bevel on wide workpiece - right tilt saw

[Chris McLeester]

I have a 16" wide and 60" long workpiece that will have bevels on both 60" edges (front of a bench). Is there any way to safely make the bevel on a right tilt saw? I only have about 12" of purchase on the left side of the blade.

I already made one of the cuts. I did it by putting the fence on the right and cutting only a small bit off (less than one inch). But I've taken a bevel kickback before and have the scar to prove it. So I'm leery of doing any more like this.

Any advice? Thoughts I've had include using a 2x4 as a temporary fence (clamped to the table since I have more space but can't engage the actual fence) or just use a circ saw.

[John Gornall]

I have a piece of maple, 2" x 2" screwed to the left edge of my right tilt Unisaw table. It's flush with the table and parallel to the blade. For some oversize or odd cuts I clamp a straight piece of wood to the underside of the workpiece and run it against this edge board. The fence is on the workpiece instead of the saw.

[Jerry Miner]

Double-stick tape the work face down on a sacrificial piece of mdf (or whatever) and cut with fence on the right.

(sacrificial piece can be just a couple of strips-- one at the cut and one near the fence.)

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[glenn bradley]

A sled will help if you are doing what is pictured in Jerry's post. f it is only 16" long then I would just do this.

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Draw a witness line on the edge (for depth) and the face (for width) and let 'er rip. A backer will let you be more aggressive and avoid blow out.

[Robert Engel]

Kickback with a right tilt blade is directly related to the thickness and width of the keeper and the offcut getting trapped. In your case, the offcut is on the good side of the blade.

If you use a splitter and a fresh sharp rip blade I don't think kickback is going to be a big issue with a board this thick and heavy.

I would make the cut in one pass I think you'll be fine. A good sharp blade with maple that thick is a must, as is a splitter.

The other option is a circular saw with a cutting guide and clean up with a hand plane or sander.

John's method will work except you will have to build something to support a board that long and heavy.

[Chris McLeester]

Jerry, can you explain a bit more why this would be okay? I still see the keeper between the blade and the fence. Is it because the sled doesn't contact the fence?

[Peter Christensen]

Run the board standing on edge against a tall fence extension with the fence to the left of the blade. Use feather boards if you think it might tip while cutting. I assume the board isn't being cut to a sharp edge.

[Mike Cutler]

What is the bevel angle?

[andy bessette]

This can be quickly and safely accomplished using a track saw.

[Jerry Miner]

Jerry, can you explain a bit more why this would be okay? I still see the keeper between the blade and the fence. Is it because the sled doesn't contact the fence?
The keeper is typically between the blade and the fence. This is the piece you will have control of. It's when the offcut is between the blade and fence that you have kickback problems.

What is your bevel angle? Maybe you could post a drawing or pic of what you're trying to accomplish? I may not totally understand.

[John TenEyck]

Cut your work piece to final width with the blade at 90 degrees. Now make an L-shaped wood fence with a couple pieces of scrap, as long as your fence and each member about 2" wide and 3/4" thick. The only critical dimension is that the horizontal piece must be wider than the thickness of your workpiece. Lower the blade and slide your work piece against the fence. Lay the L-shaped fence on top and clamp it to the fence. Remove the work piece and lower the L-shaped fence by 1/16". Now tilt your blade to the desired angle and raise its height and position the L-shaped fence so that the blade goes into the outboard corner of the L-shaped fence at the exact height of your work piece. The actual height of the blade is not important; it just needs to enter the L-shaped fence at the same height as the work piece. Now just run your work piece through. The blade will cut exactly at the top corner and the off cut will fall safely into the gap between the L-shaped fence and regular fence.

John

[Chris McLeester]

Jerry and Mike - the bevel angle is 10 degrees. It is cut like a parallelogram, not a trapezoid.

I thought that if the less than 90 degree portion of the blade trapped the keeper against the fence (that is, the saw blade points towards the fence) that you had a problem.

A pic is attached. It's the front piece on the left that covers the bench recess.

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The keeper is typically between the blade and the fence. This is the piece you will have control of. It's when the offcut is between the blade and fence that you have kickback problems.

What is your bevel angle? Maybe you could post a drawing or pic of what you're trying to accomplish? I may not totally understand.

[Chris McLeester]

That's an interesting one, Peter! I make my cabinets like that and have an extension fence that is about 15" high. The bevel does come to a bit of a point, but it may still work - there is trim. :D

[Jerry Miner]

I thought that if the less than 90 degree portion of the blade trapped the keeper against the fence (that is, the saw blade points towards the fence) that you had a problem.



Thanks for the pic. That helps a lot.

No, there should not be a problem cutting your work piece with the blade angled toward the fence. You may still want a sacrificial scrap underneath to give a cleaner cut where the blade exits the work (it will tend to chip out some). Like this:

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[andy bessette]

...You may still want a sacrificial scrap underneath to give a cleaner cut where the blade exits the work (it will tend to chip out some)...

To avoid chipout on the bottom of the work, score first with the blade set ~ 1/8" above the table saw top.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

I have a 16" wide and 60" long workpiece that will have bevels on both 60" edges (front of a bench). Is there any way to safely make the bevel on a right tilt saw? I only have about 12" of purchase on the left side of the blade.

I already made one of the cuts. I did it by putting the fence on the right and cutting only a small bit off (less than one inch). But I've taken a bevel kickback before and have the scar to prove it. So I'm leery of doing any more like this.

Any advice? Thoughts I've had include using a 2x4 as a temporary fence (clamped to the table since I have more space but can't engage the actual fence) or just use a circ saw.

Did you consider either a router or a skillsaw? Conveniently guided they look me godsent to work with big pieces...

[Chris McLeester]

Thanks for all the help! I made the cuts and they turned out well. I had to ensure the workpiece went all the way past the blade to maintain full control.

Here's a picture with my helpers.

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Thanks for the pic. That helps a lot.

No, there should not be a problem cutting your work piece with the blade angled toward the fence. You may still want a sacrificial scrap underneath to give a cleaner cut where the blade exits the work (it will tend to chip out some). Like this:

373001

[lowell holmes]

I would use a straight edge and my "Skil saw". I would make a rough cut first and then make a finish cut. My "Skil" saw is a Dewalt circular saw.

I used to have a 6" and an 8" saw. I think Hurricane Harvey claimed them.