Festool Guide Rails - 2 55" with connectors vs 1 116"

[Brian Tymchak]

Morning all,

I have a Festool track saw that came with the standard 55" track. I'd like to have a track to cut full length plywood but the price of the single 116" track leaves me with a bit of sticker shock. One option I'm considering to save some $$ is to buy a second 55" track and the track connectors. The question I have to other Festool track owners is if anyone can provide some practical experience of joining the tracks vs the solid 1 piece track. I'm hoping Festool has a better connection system that makes the joined track nice and true but if others find that joining the tracks is difficult to get a solid straight edge, I may spring for the single long track.

Thanks for your help!

[Matt Day]

Sticker shock? Festool?

[andy bessette]

Forget about a Mickey Mouse solution. Buy the long track. I have 55", 72" and 116" tracks, well worth the outrageous cost.

[Sam Murdoch]

I have connected the 2 rails for years with no downside except to having to plan my rips so that I don't disassemble and then 2 cuts later need to reconnect.
My experience is that if you are working off a very flat table (rather than stretching between 2 saw horses, for example) the connected rails work great. Flat and full support is essential.

As an important secondary need for me was to be able to bring my rails to job sites, the 2 rails was the best option. Still I do most of my sheet good cutting in the shop so finally after many years of not having the longer rail I finally bought one and I am very happy to have it. Storage is an issue. You need a long (or tall) wall or shelf to store that long rail. Still, I emphasize that the short rails served me well for many years.

In retrospect, if I were strictly a shop guy, when I first bought my track saw I would have preferred to have invested in the longer rail than to have bought the shorter rail and the connectors.

[Jamie Buxton]

I first tried that -- two 55" joined together -- but gave up and bought the long track. The joiner things don't hold the tracks well enough to survive the banging around when you move the joined track around the shop. You have to lay them out on your sheet of plywood, then carefully check them and maybe realign them before you make a cut. Repeat every time. Too much fussing.

[Jared Sankovich]

Forget about a Mickey Mouse solution. Buy the long track. I have 55", 72" and 116" tracks, well worth the outrageous cost.

This...

I have the Makita but the same applies. I did the 2 55's and connectors for a few years. It's a PITA. You really need three 55" tracks to be remotely efficient at at that point you should have just bought the 118

[Alan Lightstone]

I first tried that -- two 55" joined together -- but gave up and bought the long track. The joiner things don't hold the tracks well enough to survive the banging around when you move the joined track around the shop. You have to lay them out on your sheet of plywood, then carefully check them and maybe realign them before you make a cut. Repeat every time. Too much fussing.
+1

I find they don't really line up perfectly, so I bought the bullet and bought a shorter one, and the 110" one. I'm very happy I did.

[Mike Cutler]

You will need a method to index the two 55' rails together. Do not assume that butting up the ends will give you a straight edge. It won't. I use a 6' Starrett machine rule to align my 55" tracks, and the thin side, near the anti chip strip,always seem to have a slight height mis match. Not a big deal, but you need to realize it is there.
If I needed to make "money" cuts. I would definitely buy one continuous rail, instead of joining two together.
I believe, someone correct me if I'm wrong, that the Makita track/guide rails, are compatible with Festool bases. If that's correct you would be looking at $199. versus $366 for the same length rail. I've never done it, but I'm fairly certain that others have.

[Jared Sankovich]

You will need a method to index the two 55' rails together. Do not assume that butting up the ends will give you a straight edge. It won't. I use a 6' Starrett machine rule to align my 55" tracks, and the thin side, near the anti chip strip,always seem to have a slight height mis match. Not a big deal, but you need to realize it is there.
If I needed to make "money" cuts. I would definitely buy one continuous rail, instead of joining two together.
I believe, someone correct me if I'm wrong, that the Makita track/guide rails, are compatible with Festool bases. If that's correct you would be looking at $199. versus $366 for the same length rail. I've never done it, but I'm fairly certain that others have.

The Makita is 280 and change. A lot of places then want 200 to 300 in shipping on top. Amazon has the best deal with $25 off (of 284) with free shipping

[Brian Tymchak]

I have connected the 2 rails for years with no downside except to having to plan my rips so that I don't disassemble and then 2 cuts later need to reconnect.


Wow. Quick and overwhelming responses to go for the solid rail. Thanks for the feedback everyone!

Sam, you raise a point that I had not considered. I can see where I would want to intermingle long and short cuts when breaking down plywood and it would be annoying to join and rejoin. Thanks for that. I think that seals the deal and I'll be picking up the 116" rail.

Thanks guys!

[mreza Salav]

Buy the long Makita track. That's what I have used for 1/2 the price of Festool and works great.

[Cary Falk]

Buy the long Makita track. That's what I have used for 1/2 the price of Festool and works great.

I have the DeWalt say that the long track is the way to go. I was thinking that the Makita would fit the Festool and it looks like this confirms it.

[Steve Jenkins]

Did some work for a shop that made garage doors. He special ordered an 18 footer for trimming the doors. Can’t imagine what he paid

[Jim Becker]

I also bought the longer track. I rarely use it, but when it's the right choice, it's the right choice. I actually want to get a mid-length (~75") track for those times when angled cuts need to be made on "shop work" where just shifting the shorter track will not cut the mustard as it will for "carpentry" purposes.

[Phillip Mitchell]

I would buy the Makita 118" guide rail for under $300 and call it a day.

[Brian Tymchak]

Ok. Several have suggested the Makita track. I will look into that. Thanks for the tip!

[Brandon Thill]

I just bought the long Makita track for my TS55 from toolnut.com for $174 (put it in cart to see the price). Couldn't be happier!

[Martin Wasner]

I've got both of the tracks for Makita, which I just sold. I'm probably going to end up buying another Makita track for the Mafell, but I bought two of their longest tracks to try the joiner. It seems like a better system than what Makita or Festool use, but we'll see.

The only thing I don't like about the long track is transportation. I haven't messed one up yet, but they're long and flimsy.

[Larry Frank]

I am certain the longer track is easier to use. However I use two of the shorter tracks and take the time to carefully align them. I have no problems. However, on a jobsite or where time is money, the longer track makes sense. The longer track also needs to be stored properly to avoid damage.

[Josh Kocher]

Martin:

I think you'll find the Mafell track joins dead straight in 10 seconds.

I thought I would get a long track but it's so convenient to connect two there is no need. Likewise with the Bosch track/accessories, fully interchangable with the Mafell tracks.

[Martin Wasner]

I think you'll find the Mafell track joins dead straight in 10 seconds.

It looks like a better system than the others, so my hopes are pretty high.

[Ben Rivel]

Yea, another vote for just get the longer track. I have two 55" rails, a 32" and a 75" and if I didnt have the other two to work with while the two 55s were tied up Id go nuts. Ill be selling my Betterley rail aligner and probably the second 55" rail soon to help fund one of the longer 8ft tracks.

[Jared Sankovich]

I just bought the long Makita track for my TS55 from toolnut.com for $174 (put it in cart to see the price). Couldn't be happier!

Says truck freight shipping required.

[Davis Young]

Long track is the way to go but if joining two tracks, get a 75” instead of another 55” if 5’x5’ Baltic birch is something that you use.

[Cary Falk]

Makita usually runs a $25 off $100 or something like that around this time. You could probably have a track ordered from Home Depot and shipped to store for pickup for free. I got my Dewalt long track from Lowes this way years ago.

[Ken Kortge]

Joining tracks is where the Eurekazone.com EZ Smart tracks really shine. If you go to their Extrusions > Self Aligning Extrusion section (link below) and go to the 54" or 64" track listed near the bottom (I prefer the 64" for cutting 48" lengths of plywood, and then adding a 48" or 54" length track for cutting 96" lengths), you can see a diagram of the track's cross section. Note that the channels in the bottom of the rail have a dovetail shape. This unique feature pulls the tracks into alignment when the connectors are tightened. Typically just the two side-channel connectors are used to connect two tracks, but if the total length gets longer than 108" Eurekazone recommends using a center channel connector too.

Regardless, to be safe I always check the alignment using a long straight edge - such as a level or another length of track. So far I've not had to adjust the alignment.

64" track: http://www.eurekazone.com/product_p/ezxh736264.htm

Center channel connector: http://www.eurekazone.com/product_p/ezts7324cc.htm

[Mike Cutler]

I think you'll find the Mafell track joins dead straight in 10 seconds.


Josh
No alignment is necessary at all? They just butt together, and everything is true the entire length?
I have the Festool TS75 and this was one aspect where I think they "fell down". For the $$$$ the Festool guide rails cost, they should have been machined better on the butt ends. The guide rails, along with the vacuum, are the heart of their system.
I find it very annoying to have to align the guide rails.

[roger wiegand]

I've been using two 55" pieces for about a year now. I don't use the saw on an every day basis and, so far, this is working fine for me. Yes, it does take a few extra seconds to join and check the tracks (mine have never been significantly off when put together), but at this point that seems easier and cheaper than buying and finding a safe place to store the long track.

[Larry Edgerton]

Anyone tried the Mafell folding track?


I looked around for it on the Euro sites and no longer see the hinged track listed. Must not have been the cats meow. Now they have a flexible track, does not interest me.

[andy bessette]

Who here seriously believes that 2 connected tracks are as precise and durable as a single long one? Come on!

[Larry Edgerton]

Counterpoint. Who here believe that a long track can ride around in an 8' bed very long with out getting bent.

I have both, I use the 75/32 combination when on site.

Betterly makes a connector that is better if one feels it is a need.

[Sam Murdoch]

Who here seriously believes that 2 connected tracks are as precise and durable as a single long one? Come on!


Because you ask - I'm very particular and strive to be precise and exact woodworker. I have built many kitchens worth of cabinets from plywood ripped with my connected rails without compromise. I went as long as I did before buying the long rail because I had none of the issues that others report with inaccuracy/lack of straight cuts. Any variance was negligible. I maintain that a very flat work surface is key. I never really fussed with connecting the rails - simply put them together with the provided bars. I store my rails hanging long and if I carry them to a job site they are well protected in a purpose built box. Maybe all that has contributed to my satisfaction with the connected rails over the years. I only finally ordered a long rail because of the inconvenience of needing to plan my long rips in conjunction with shorter cuts. Often enough I forgot something and needed to reconnect the rails. That was a major downside, otherwise I was a happy guide rail connector.

Obviously - most others have not shared my experience.

[roger wiegand]

Who here seriously believes that 2 connected tracks are as precise and durable as a single long one? Come on!

No, but precise and durable enough for home shop use? Yes. Some of us have to make the occasional compromise to save money for other things. Good enough is, sometimes, good enough. (And in this case, pretty darn good)

[Victor Robinson]

Curious - those of you that use Festool and Makita tracks with Festool saws - do you find you need to readjust the saw every time you switch between rail brands? Thinking about that long Makita rail...

[Josh Kocher]

Josh
No alignment is necessary at all? They just butt together, and everything is true the entire length?
I have the Festool TS75 and this was one aspect where I think they "fell down". For the $$$$ the Festool guide rails cost, they should have been machined better on the butt ends. The guide rails, along with the vacuum, are the heart of their system.
I find it very annoying to have to align the guide rails.

Correct.

I was checking for the first while against a straight edge but it's always right on. I think it's the channel/connection piece that pulls them straight vs. just the butt ends being square.

not my video, but here's how it works:
https://youtu.be/8LuPb0DQgB8

[andy bessette]

...precise and durable enough for home shop use? Yes...Good enough is, sometimes, good enough...

Good enough for you might be completely unacceptable for another.

[Mike Cutler]

Who here seriously believes that 2 connected tracks are as precise and durable as a single long one? Come on!

Andy
I don't think that the issue is whether or not two can be as precise as one, but how much fussing about does it take to make two as precise as one, and can the two maintain that same equality over a given duration as the one.
However, the wood is still the biggest variable in the equation, and unless it's cabinet ply, it's not going to be the same dimensionally tomorrow, as it was today.

[Brandon Thill]

Says truck freight shipping required.

Shipping was $6 and delivered in a normal delivery van

[mreza Salav]

Curious - those of you that use Festool and Makita tracks with Festool saws - do you find you need to readjust the saw every time you switch between rail brands? Thinking about that long Makita rail...

If you want to be very fussy then you can adjust but I have used them over the two tracks without adjusting and works just fine.

[Sean Nagle]

If precise is what you want, then use a table saw in a proper shop.

[Larry Edgerton]

Good enough for you might be completely unacceptable for another.

Really? We are talking about a skil saw here.

[Jim Dwight]

I bought the DeWalt with 59 and 102 inch tracks because I knew I wanted the long track and it was the cheapest with both tracks. I think that is still true. I later bought the short 41 inch track and connector so I could put both short tracks together and avoid needing to transport the long one. I mainly wanted the short one for in the shop, however. I might get another and cut it. I was cross cutting pieces a little over 12 inches wide yesterday and 41 inches wasn't too handy. Anyway, long track pricing is an advantage of the DeWalt.

[roger wiegand]

How precise do you need to be in breaking down sheet goods to manageable pieces? I'm not sure how I would even detect a cut that wasn't exactly straight by 1/16" over an 8 ft length, not owning a long straightedge of that quality. Are the factory edges on plywood that good? That level of straight seems fine to me for carpentry tasks like cutting sheathing. Anything going into a piece of furniture in my shop is going to get the final cuts done on the table saw where I have much better control over dimensions, squareness, as well as straightness of the cut.

[Cary Falk]

Some people use the track saw as a table saw replacement. I am not one of them.

[Jim Becker]

If precise is what you want, then use a table saw in a proper shop.


How precise do you need to be in breaking down sheet goods to manageable pieces? I

A track saw can be more precise that most folks' table saws...it's not about breaking down the goods, it's about making the final cut the first time. And for many folks using these systems, they are either on a job site cutting to measured specification, or utilizing the tool to make it easier and more comfortable to do the work. It's just a different way to work. The question about joining two shorter tracks is also a valid concern when you take "final cut" into consideration. If two shorter tracks have even a barely perceptible variation at the join, it really could affect the cut result in a visible way.

[andy bessette]

...it's not about breaking down the goods, it's about making the final cut the first time...

This is how I use mine in the shop. Anyone can break down plywood with a builders saw and then re-cut it. I make glue-joint ready cuts with my TS 55 track saw, needing precision and repeatability.

Many of the cuts I make for yacht cabinetry are at angles other than 90* (not bevel cuts) and are easier with a track saw, making splinter-free cuts in expensive veneered ply, mostly teak. The 10' track is also regularly used to straighten the raw edge of lumber.

[Martin Wasner]

The tracksaws are handy, but it didn't change the way we did much. It rarely gets used in the shop, but when it's the right tool, I'm glad we have it. What it get's used for on our end the most is cutting strange angles, or for cutting angles on something that's too heavy to justify heaving into the panel saw. Like a 25-1/2 x 100' QSWO 8/4 L shaped wood top that is getting mitred in the corner. I'm not throwing that and my back out getting into in the panel saw. It's just not worth the hassle. Or when you have to build some corner cabinet at some bizarre angle like 23.5º, you just mark it out to the numbers, stack your decks and hog it down. I think that would be faster than having the fancy angle jig that is supposed to go in the panel saw, but I couldn't afford at the time.

It's been a boon for when I can't read appliance specifications and I make an opening wrong too and I'm stuck hacking something down onsite that's installed. Like a customer buying the only model of front load washer and dryer that isn't 38-1/2" tall and I just assume, so the top rail needs some tweaking. With a good vacuum there isn't much mess to be dealt with.

We don't use it much, but when it's right, it is soooo right.

[Jim Becker]

It's been a boon for when I can't read appliance specifications and I make an opening wrong too and I'm stuck hacking something down onsite that's installed. Like a customer buying the only model of front load washer and dryer that isn't 38-1/2" tall and I just assume, so the top rail needs some tweaking. With a good vacuum there isn't much mess to be dealt with.

We don't use it much, but when it's right, it is soooo right.

I agree. My most unique situation here was when I wanted to move a Thos Moser inspired armoire that I had built into one of the bedrooms in the 250 year old portion of the house. Because of the narrow doors, etc. It was to serve (at that time) for guest clothing storage as there is no closet in that bedroom. it had to be moved into the space on it's side and then tilted up in the center of the room because of the sloped ceilings. Unfortunately it was about 1" too tall to be able to tip up with the low ceiling height. That meant I had to modify the height of the base in situ...and the track saw was the perfect tool for a perfect edge.

[roger wiegand]

Maybe I don't know how to use a track saw, certainly a possibility since I've only had it for a year or so and never taken a class or gotten a lesson.

When making a long cut I assume that I have a straight edge from the factory on one side of my plywood. I don't know how good this assumption is. I measure from that edge at three points to establish my cutline, the two ends and center. Then I put the track down and make sure it lines up at all three points. If it doesn't I have to stop and figure out why not. Most commonly one of my measurements was off, second most common error is that my reference edge wasn't actually straight, third (hasn't actually happened yet) would be that the track isn't straight.

I believe the greatest limitation of both accuracy and reproducibility is my ability to line up the flexible rubber edge of the track (which on my track isn't even down tight against the board, but elevated by maybe 1/32-1/64"), to the measurement marks. I don't see how this process can possibly be more precise than running the board between two solid, fixed points, eg the saw blade and fence.

Neither process is perfect for accuracy (achieving the "true" desired value), but the table saw and fence seems much better for precision (achieving the same value reproducibly). I find the latter to be more important for making parts that fit together well. Re-doing the measurement and alignment process with the track for each cut seems inescapably more variable than running all the parts through the same table saw setup where (I hope) nothing moves. When you have to make many parts the same size the measure and align process with the track seems tedious.

Is there a better way to use the track that will bring the variability I see down to the same kind of level as I see with a table saw setup? I'd be perfectly happy to cut once rather than twice. Do you make a story stick or alignment block for each cut to set the track distance from the edge?

All that said, I love the track saw and not having to horse full sheets of plywood around by myself! For any task where I can use a pencil to mark the cut line and expect a good result and are only making one or two cuts I do use it for the final cut.

[Jim Becker]

Roger, placing the rail accurately is certainly an important part of of this as you surmise. I personally don't have any problem getting the track lined up right on the mark, but everyone's eyesight is a little different. Some folks use mechanical guides, such as a parallel setup kit to help with super critical cuts and when there's any chance of the track being inadvertently moved, securing it with a clamp is indicated.

While running a piece of material between a fixed fence and blade might at first seem to be potentially more accurate, the very act of a human hand pushing that material through the cut can introduce minor variations...something noticeable ones. A slider can be "more accurate", but that's because the material is "fixed" to the wagon, either up against an accurate fence or clamped down through the cut. That removes typical human introduced variances in the cut leaves a glue-ready joint with a sharp blade. Correspondingly, if you clamp your track saw rail to the material, you're removing a lot of the variability and can get a very high quality cut. Again, the key here is that like with a slider, setup is very important with a track saw and that includes measuring as you note. But if you do it well, you're eliminating some extra steps that often can come using other methods. But to be clear, there is no "one way" that is best and each of us should use the methods that we are most comfortable with and are appropriate for the work at hand.

[Sam Murdoch]

...and NO the factory edge is NOT a straight edge! At least it isn't for me. My first rip is often in the middle of the sheet (or some factor of width that gives me the best yield) and I then work off my rip. I always discount the factory edges - at the ends or in the lengths.

[Sean Nagle]

My experience is closer to Roger's. Maybe I just don't know how best to use the TS55. I find the track placement fiddly. I feel the track must be clamped or it will move. The flexible plastic edge on both of my tracks sits higher than the material surface like Roger's. I experience considerable parallax error because of the clear edge floating in space. The few times where I've had to get the right width or a perfect 90 degree crosscut, it's taken more than one cut.

As a turnkey solution for people who have to work in the field, I'm sure the Festool track saw is a great solution. However, for hobbyists like me that primary make furniture or cabinetry, the old method of using a length of 1/4" plywood with an attached fence and a circular saw was actually a superior arrangement. Placement on a line was always perfect and you had your choice of a much more powerful left or right hand cut circular saw.

[andy bessette]

Maybe I don't know how to use a track saw...I assume that I have a straight edge from the factory on one side of my plywood...I measure from that edge at three points...the measure and align process with the track seems tedious....

I have never heard of such a procedure; no wonder it seems tedious. Align the track precisely on TWO marks. The correct assumption is that, since the track hasn't been in an accident since last use, it is still straight. Another assumption is that, after you've re-cut the virtually always buggered-up factory edge, using the track saw, it will be straight. If you're cutting a bunch of small, parallel-edged pieces, by all means run them through the table saw.

Note: I have never ever had to clamp the track--the grippy strips hold it firmly in position with simple downward pressure on the track.

[Jim Becker]

Andy, the three points are not needed for the actual cut, but can be helpful just as a "check" on the operator. If he/she makes three marks and they don't line up, then something is amiss with at least one of them and it brings re-measuring before material gets wasted. The actual cut line would clearly be served by the two end marks once it's confirmed they are in the right spot. Do we have to do this? No. But it's not a horrible practice.

You are also correct that in general, the tracks stay put. But sometimes we have to make a cut where the operator's position might be awkward, so clamping insures that track stays put, even if "extra" stresses happen. Most of the time I don't clamp the track. Sometimes I do when it gives additional assurance or because of the physical circumstances of the cut.

[andy bessette]

Correction to my statement that I never ever clamp the track: Once, when I had to make a precise cut to a bulkhead (vertical partition) on a 53' yacht I had to clamp one end of the track and tape down the other, as I did not have gravity helping me hold it in place, and I had only one chance of getting it right on a virtually priceless component.

[Jim Dwight]

I am another cut to finish size guy. My shop is 14x24 which makes cutting anything large on the table saw a chore. Much easier to leave it stationary and use the track saw. For example, I am buiding a queen sized bed right now. Tonight is probably just another coat of finish on the panels in the headboard and inside frame edge but soon I will glue up the headboard, hopefully tomorrow night. When it dries I will true up the three pieces of wood in the side of the headboard panel with the track saw. It is large and heavy and only three sides are straight. It would be much more of a chore to cut on the table saw. After that, I need to cut the wood for the rails to width. I will do it with the track saw because it will give me straight rails and the wood is heavy. The side cuts on the headboard will be glued to the posts without further work on them and the cuts on the rails will be sanded and finished.
I do not use a track saw exclusively. Many cuts are easier or done better on a table saw (like getting the legs for the bed to final size). But typically if I need to cut a big piece of solid or manufacturered wood, I use the track saw. I did this for decades without one but I find it much easier to have and use one.

[Mike Cutler]

Wow! we've wandered way off course from the Op's original question. That's the beauty of this forum though.

I don't use my track saws normally to make the "first time", final cut. Maybe a final trim, but not a final cut. I've put way too much time, effort, and $$$$, into making my table saw to cut perfect 90's, and parallel rips.
I originally bought my TS75 to turn a 16 1/2' long, 3' wide, 2" thick, piece of padauk into a table top. I did need the clamps for those cuts, because the wood was rough cut starting off, and there wasn't enough surface adhesion for the track material, like on cabinet ply.

[Jeff Heil]

Have two 55" rails and have had no concerns using them for 8' rips with accuracy. Use a 4x8 table with a 1" piece of rigid foam board for support. Have cut up lots of sheet goods with accuracy. I see the point others make about switching back and forth to short and long cuts. It would be nice to have a long rail and use the short ones, but I want other tools more.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

Hell, I don't have a problem with cutting 55 inches then moving the track for another 55 inches.

[David Clopton]

I just bought the long Makita track for my TS55 from toolnut.com for $174 (put it in cart to see the price). Couldn't be happier!

Brandon, thanks for the tip. There's a $25 off $100 Makita promo at toolnut.com which knocks it down from $199. Amazon has the $25 Makita deal as well but the rail before the discount is $284 on Amazon vs. $199 at Toolnut. Shipping is free.

[Martin Wasner]

Josh
No alignment is necessary at all? They just butt together, and everything is true the entire length?
I have the Festool TS75 and this was one aspect where I think they "fell down". For the $$$$ the Festool guide rails cost, they should have been machined better on the butt ends. The guide rails, along with the vacuum, are the heart of their system.
I find it very annoying to have to align the guide rails.


The Mafell uses a big wide joiner. It's pretty awesome. The whole saw is pretty awesome, and has some awesome features, which it better be for what it costs. I'm not sure it's worth the price of admission, but it is a very nice, very well thought out tool.