Unisaw Outfeed Table Questions

[Jeff Andrews]

I've been looking at a LOT of designs for a folding outfeed table that I plan to build for my Unisaw. A common design incorporates a 12" deep fixed section attached to the saw with a larger section that is hinged to this fixed section. What is the reasoning behind the 12" deep fixed section?

In my application, I need to make the most compact size possible when the table is folded and not in use. (Believe in, or not, I still park cars in my garage when it snows.) So I am wondering what I am losing if I don't have this fixed section. I can afford the 3-4" that would be required to clear the back rail on the fence, and I am planning to cut an inset that will allow the table to clear the dust collection port when folded down.

I'm hoping someone smarter than me can chime in with the info on the 12" fixed section.

Thanks.
JT

[Mike Kees]

On tables I have seen like the one you are describing the 12'' section has miter slots routed into it so your miter gauge or crosscut table can slide further.

[Jim Becker]

I can answer that question because I did one of those popular designs that many folks have built. :)

In "my design", the 12" (or thereabouts) "fixed" section serves to increase the size of the outfeed table while still allowing a larger fold-down section that doesn't get caught on the floor, provides for easier accommodation of miter slot extensions without stopped grooves, makes for easier attachment to the saw's rear rail and also makes it easier to attach and hinge the fold-down section.

If you need to conserve space, then you can eliminate the 12" section as long as you limit the size of the folding portion to about the same size as it was in the original design so it folds and hangs down perpendicular to the floor. You'll just have to figure out how to best attach it to your saw and hinge it.

[Bruce Page]

I don’t think there is a set in stone reason for the 12” overhang. You just need to clear any fence rails you might have. I made the one for my Unisaw 9” to line up with the end of the fence - for no particular reason.

[Bruce Wrenn]

If your saw has a Biese fence, why not make extension table completely detachable? Add a couple of bolts to front of table, and drill matching holes in rear rail. Holes should be large enough for bolts to slip thru, supporting front of table, with fold down legs supporting rear.

[Doug Garson]

I suspect many of the ones you are referring to are on contractor type saws with the motor hanging out the back. The 12" is necessary to clear the motor. It also gives you a small permanent outfeed table for those of us with smaller table saws and a place to store your cross cut sled.

[John Sanford]

Permanent outfeed for smaller stuff. Clearance for the motor on contractor's saws. Clearance for DC. Place to set the Big Gulp that won't leave rust rings behind.

[Charles Lent]

Permanent outfeed for smaller stuff. Clearance for the motor on contractor's saws. Clearance for DC. Place to set the Big Gulp that won't leave rust rings behind.

+1 for everything John listed. I only lift the hinged part when doing something long. The 1' stationary section handles all of the short work. If what I will be cutting will require a cut longer than about 2', I'll tip up the extension. To me, at least some kind of extension is a MUST for safety. It keeps work from tipping and falling, but more importantly, it removes the instinct to reach over the saw blade to catch work that is about to fall. Let it fall, or build an out feed table. The hand you save may be your own.

Charley