Beaded Frame Wainscot

[Leo Graywacz]

Over the last week I made some wainscoting for a pool room. I installed it today. I still need to do the rest of the room (straight walls). I'll be working on that this week. I went to some extra effort and made the large bead that surrounds the inside of the frame as a separate pc. I know how walls are and it worked out great. I pushed the bead frames up against the wall even if the wainscoting was proud because of undulation in the wall. Worked great.

Beaded detail:
http://www.fototime.com/B6C8CC6317B7D83/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/9DA4F76B74A16A3/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/F83B16768B89456/orig.jpg

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http://www.fototime.com/0782F9CFDD31E03/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/D0083067AD222B5/orig.jpg

And here is that inside corner with the shaped block. The HO loved it. Totally understood why I wanted to do it that way and was amazed at the small details inside the block.

http://www.fototime.com/2CE723D3DE7483D/orig.jpg

[Mel Fulks]

Real nice detailing at all those corners and edges. I like the small contact edge at the walls. Kinda' strange to have all those outlets. But I made raised panels once for a dining room that had 17 outlets!

[Frederick Skelly]

That looks great Leo!
Fred

[George Bokros]

Looks awesome. Nice job and design.

[Leo Graywacz]

Real nice detailing at all those corners and edges. I like the small contact edge at the walls. Kinda' strange to have all those outlets. But I made raised panels once for a dining room that had 17 outlets!

Pretty sure it's a code thing. It was designed as a living space, so outlets are dictated by code. Plus he wanted to have a few pinball machines down there, and might not of know where he was going to put them during construction. It did make it a challenge to get the spacing even and not hit an outlet with a center stile.

I have one wall that I have to adjust a stile so the panel area will be smaller than the rest by about a 1/4". No one will notice.

[David Utterback]

Very nicely done. Combines 2 of my hobbies, woodworking and pool.

[Jim Becker]

Beautiful work, Leo, and I absolutely agree with you relative to using a separate molding for that beading in an architectural setting for exactly the reason you cited. Unlike a piece of furniture, you do not have control over the surface adjacent to your work and having the flexibility that comes with separate pieces deals with that.

[Leo Graywacz]

Beautiful work, Leo, and I absolutely agree with you relative to using a separate molding for that beading in an architectural setting for exactly the reason you cited. Unlike a piece of furniture, you do not have control over the surface adjacent to your work and having the flexibility that comes with separate pieces deals with that.

That really took a lot longer than I expected. Just cutting and snapping them into the hole was easy and it went fast. But then taking them out and gluing and nailing them together took a good amount of time. But in the end it was really worth it. Having the moldings up against the wall looks so much better than if they were floating proud. I think this was the first time I have done an open wainscot like this.

I've done cheater wainscoting many times, frame panels a baseboard and a chair rail, But not stile and rail without a panel insert. Nice cause it was different for me.

[Jim Becker]

It's actually pretty rich looking with the open, painted "panels" in the darker contrasting color. Nice!

[John TenEyck]

Thanks for posting not only the photos but how you did it, Leo. I wouldn't have thought of doing it that way but it makes perfect sense in how best to deal with imperfect walls, which all walls are. What wood did you use? Looks a lot like QS Sapele, one of my favorite woods this past year.

John

[Leo Graywacz]

Good eye. It's Ribbon Striped Sapele' aka Quarter Sawn.

[John TenEyck]

Thanks Leo. I love that stuff. Works very well although the splinters really hurt, finishes well, and it's readily available to me at a very fair price. Hard to beat.

[Leo Graywacz]

Not to cheap here. About $7 BF

[Jim Becker]

7-10 bd ft around here, depending on the source. Nice material, however.

[Leo Graywacz]

Now I have 3 sheetrock posts to put the wainscot shelf on. I'll be using Sapele' veneer from the top of the baseboard to the bottom of the surround and the essentially the top rail of the wainscoting. The shelf will be 4" wide going all around the post which is about 12 1/4" x 16 1/2".

I've made all the parts, but the veneer isn't getting here until Thursday. All the parts are built, sanded and stained right now.

I made these cute little brackets that will go under the shelf in the center of each one. More of a decorative look then support. But they will provide support anyway.

I made 12 of them, one for each flat of the post.

http://www.fototime.com/A7F50172EE6E57E/orig.jpg

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[Leo Graywacz]

I got the three post wraps done. More work than it looks like. Each one was fitted to a particular post as the size varied a bit among them. The design matches the wainscoting and the shelf will be at 42" like the shelf on the wainscoting.

There are the 4 sides. Each one has a vertical 3/8" full bead on one end and a flat on the other. The flats nest into the beaded end and form a nice invisible joint. Then I have the shelf that is in two parts. A "C" and an end.

http://www.fototime.com/0F1B319DC088EBC/orig.jpg

The beaded parts will be screwed to the post inside the dado, making the attachment to the post invisible. Then the "C" will be slipped into the dado and then the end will be glued on using the biscuits.

http://www.fototime.com/C26168F066CC582/orig.jpg

It will be capped off with a cove molding, same as the wainscoting.

http://www.fototime.com/A964A4ADD9E350A/orig.jpg

Here's the corbel brackets.

http://www.fototime.com/2C50AD7FB603ED2/orig.jpg

Under the post wrap will be a Sapele' veneer sheet glued to the post and then a Sapele' corner will be applied to cover each of the seams.

[Leo Graywacz]

Did the install today. Took a lot longer than I expected, but things went smooth. Applying the glue to the veneers is what took the most time. I used Liquid Nails Panel as the adhesive. I applied it in a 3/8" bead across the width and then used a 3" plastic putty knife that I put 1/8" triangular notches in with my tablesaw. After spreading the glue I laid them on the post and used a J roller to flatten and spread the glue. Put up 4 of them and then taped the corners.

Then I put the shelf verticals with the dadoes on, two screws each into the corner studs and wrap around the post.

http://www.fototime.com/03280E430710345/orig.jpg


Then I slid the "C" shaped shelf into the dadoes.

http://www.fototime.com/BC979BF1B8776AF/orig.jpg


Then put glue into the biscuit slots and on the end grain and a couple of clamps.

http://www.fototime.com/A67DC4F4E8BFBC6/orig.jpg


After that I cut the corner covers to size and applied a bead of Silicone Caulk to the two inside corners and then put them on the 4 corners of the post. Held them on with masking tape. After all 4 were applied I wrapped the post covered by the Sapele' veneer (and corners) with stretch wrap to hold everything in place.

After that I cut the miters on the cove and applied it to the top of the verticals.

http://www.fototime.com/9ACBCD951242115/orig.jpg

[Travis Porter]

Looks great!